FREE hoodscoops! L body BBQ replacements!

[GLHS377]

Yes, I'm giving away the first two hoodscoops free! you won't even have to pay shipping! these are lightweight, kinda STI styled 3.25" high direct replacements for the L body BBQ grille!

All you have to do is have one of the two sweetest cars that want one, and send me a ton of nice pics before, during and after installation, promptly. I will be using the pics on my new website(in the works), so people will be seeing your baby, and I _will_ credit the owners. i'm looking for one 2 door and one 4 door, rampages are cool!

They will be primed fiberglass and ready to paint to match your car, with stainless steel hardware included. sorry, you will have to have it painted. once i get the pics, keep it, sell it, eat it, it's yours!

You can email me pics of your car or post them. In a couple weeks, I'll announce here, or not, if you like, who gets them and arrange for delivery etc. OK!

-jason

[DC Turismo]

I want it! What's the email, and is there any catch? Such as having to send you our hoods, etc.? I would love to have a molded hoodscoop/hood combo for my ride, I was just talking about it yesterday! :thumb:

[GLHS592]

You gotta picture of one?

[GLHS377]

sorry, TM reports The email address for GLHS377 is glhs@kradcarbon.com

a very old picture of a buck is:

http://www.kradcarbon.com/auto/carbonduct002.jpg

kindof a catch 22 as the whole point of this is to get some good pics. unfortunately making the new molds required destroying the bucks. but it's .5" taller and better shaped than the old pics. parts haven't been pulled, i'm still rebuilding my shop.

no shipping hoods. you WILL have to paint it. tho for DCTURISMO that shouldn't be an issue :P
it's a direct and accurate bolt in replacement, uses the stock mounting holes, and you can put it either forward or rear facing with no mods. it shouldn't matter which way you put it, it'll still ram air underhood. i'm not requiring instrumented testing on the freebies, but it'd be nice.

-jason

[Marcus86GLHS]

looks like nice construction/design. questions:

arent the stock "bbq" grilles vents (for turbocharger heat release), not intakes (for cold air)?

so is your product intended to be installed facing opening-forward, or, opening-aft?

if it is opening forward, is there a corresponding cold air intake? (i cant picture how that would be plumbed to a TI or TII) i've seen pix of the old DC top-mount intercooler but that unit looks to be mounted to far to the drivers side of the engine to use cold air from the stock hood grill location.

[Holley]

When in motion the stock grille sees air moving from above the hood to down the back of the engine, since the air pressure under is lower. At standstill hot air can rise through it.

This scoop should make no difference to the amount of air going through, since the movement of air is restricted underneath the grille (GLHS hoods notwithstanding); if a CAI were rigged up to it, another vent would be needed to allow the back of the engine to 'breathe' anyway ...

I'll be interested to see what one of these looks like in-situ, and I bet a similar item would look cool as a replacement for the Daytona grille!

[GLHS592]

Heck, I'd throw one on to see what it looked like if it wouldn't be such an ordeal to get it painted and take pictures of the car.

[tryingbe]

Can somebody photoshop my car with the scoop?

http://www.hardcars.com/thepriestmike/omni_4105.JPG

[turbojerk]

I'll try one for sure...And give you plenty on pic's with it mounted in return,:thumb:

My pic's are HERE (http://sv-td.com/photos.htm) . It's the blue GLH-T

Thanks
Troy

[altered7151]

When in motion the stock grille sees air moving from above the hood to down the back of the engine, since the air pressure under is lower. At standstill hot air can rise through it.

This scoop should make no difference to the amount of air going through, since the movement of air is restricted underneath the grille (GLHS hoods notwithstanding); if a CAI were rigged up to it, another vent would be needed to allow the back of the engine to 'breathe' anyway ...

I'll be interested to see what one of these looks like in-situ, and I bet a similar item would look cool as a replacement for the Daytona grille!


I'm with James on this one, although the scoops definitally look pretty slick, they could screw up the airflow in your engine compartment. Potentially cause overheating issues and loss of flow through a front mount intercooler. The purpose of that vent is to create a low presure area and draw air out through the rear of the engine compartment, this not only draws the hot air out, but also helps pull the cool air in through the grill area. If you block that area off, you create a high pressure pocket in the engine compartment and basically create a dam keeping cool air out. But if you make other provisions for sucking that air out, suck as installing a NACA duct on the bulge, that scoop would not only look cool, but add alot of function.

[Marcus86GLHS]

so, is the part intended to face forward or backward?

i'd have to respectfully disagee with HOLLEY's post pertaining to airflow. the car does not create a low pressure area under the car when in motion, its the opposite, air pressure under the car increases with speed.

seems to me the factory hood grille is always a vent, and very little if no air ever flows from the stock hood grille downward into the engine bay.

so shouldnt this scoop face rearward to work with a stock engine/air intake/turbo configuration?

[turbojerk]

I'm with James on this one, although the scoops definitally look pretty slick, they could screw up the airflow in your engine compartment. Potentially cause overheating issues and loss of flow through a front mount intercooler. The purpose of that vent is to create a low presure area and draw air out through the rear of the engine compartment, this not only draws the hot air out, but also helps pull the cool air in through the grill area. If you block that area off, you create a high pressure pocket in the engine compartment and basically create a dam keeping cool air out. But if you make other provisions for sucking that air out, suck as installing a NACA duct on the bulge, that scoop would not only look cool, but add alot of function.

Just FYI....

87 and up TII cars had no vent at all.

T

[tryingbe]

That wasn't a 87 GLH-T, was there now?

[Holley]

There wasn't, only '85 and 6, and it was the last year of the Chargers too.

Anywho, What I was trying to say is the scoop won't affect the air flow, whichever way its mounted. Air pressure under the car is marginally higher with speed, under the hood its lower, and above the hood its high - have a look at the Celica GT4 intercooler installation which gets alot of airflow through it ;)

[GLHS377]

testing with yarn tufts on the stock hoodvent on an omni GLHS around 1998 gave me results that there's no airflow out of it above 60mph. under that, it's very turbulent and that makes it inconclusive to in or out flow(and also rips the tufts off). it could be that there is no flow in or out of the vent at all, and the entire vent lives in the boundary layer when in motion. mind you that all testing was done with the entire vent undertray completely cut out, as opposed to only partially cut out on a standard GLHS.

after these tests, i tested pressure in a sealed cowl. and vent top and bottom.(vent to HVAC and drains sealed) pressure fluctuates but is 1-2psi @ 60~80mph. at the same sppeds, the vent has ~1psi pressure above it, nothing underneath it. measured in the center.

with these tests done, i intended to make a cowl based airbox and a scoop to direct some air down onto the intake manifold and turbo for cooling. never got around to the cowl airbox, and for my car, i'm going to be making a new upper plenum with TB on the passenger side so i'll have room to make the scoop duct to a new airbox. i intend on running it both ways and measuring pressure in a sealed off airbox. on the stock one piece or two piece manifolds, there isn't enough room to get a decent duct to an airbox through there. and it would have to be made of high temp epoxy being right above the turbo with no airflow in a traffic situation. which makes that solution rather expensive.

i agree that intorducing new flows of air into the engine bay could possibly disturb the airflow inside the engine bay, the stock vent does not vent out air, but the pressure above suggest that it forces air in at speed. but if you're worried about airflow through the frontmount, then sealing the sides would be a good solution, and can increase the cooling effects and irflow through the radiant devices proportionate to the leaks. i haven't seen one other TD that actually seals the front mount from spillnig air to the sides. and a NACA duct is for ingestion of air without disturbing airflow and causing minimal drag. not for dispersal of air. with a properly sealed front end, the pressure differential from the front of the car to front of the engine should be greater, and even greater so for the rear of the engine. note that chrysler put a stock rubber flap at the leading edge of the Kframe to direct air up to the turbo for cooling. removing that and ingesting significantly more air from the higher pressure on the hood could help intake, firewall and exhaust cooling a lot.
the extra air being forced under the vehichle could adversely affect the coefecient of lift, but with the ground clearance an L body has, even when on the bumpstops, is sufficient to make that a non-issue.

that all being said, only instrumented testing will sort out exact interactions. my GLHS alledgedly arrives on the 19th, and it's not ready for testing yet, but in a month or two i'll be able to take it on track and do some datalogging. which is all too scarce in the automotive aftermarket, especially in the lowbuck TD crowd.

-jason

[GLHNSLHT2]

I've got the nose of my ShelbyZ sealed off so that all air that goes through the holes in the nose has to go through the cummins i/c then into the a/c and rad before exiting on the other side. Along with this I have an airdam off a Chevy S10 installed on it that runs under the lower rad support and goes all the way to the edges of the ground f/x by the front tire. This shoves a lot of air out and around the car and pulls a bunch through the rad/ic/ac. I got a spare hood and was going to cut out the back of the hood scoop to let even more heat out. I think it's far enough away from the window and with the slope that no high pressure air would/will hit it. I proceded to cut it out and do the yarn trick. I was shocked at the results. At a measly 25MPH the yarn turned around and was being actively sucked into the hole. At 75MPH I thought they'd rip off and get sucked down into the depths of the engine bay. This was something I didn't want so I put the stock hood back on. What I need is something that opens under 25MPH and closes above it :) My GLH might be the same way with some of the current aero mods on it.
But Jason your work is top notch and you do test stuff in the real world which I love to see done. Keep it coming!

[Holley]

Thanks Jason, thats good info :) On Chargers the inside of the nose had fibre baffles to help seal the front and increase pressure specifically in front of the rad ... I can imagine a GLH would be harder to seal off though.

As for getting cooler air for the intake, thats one thing I'm hoping to play with using the factory cowl hood I got with my S ... its positioned in a good place to run to the intake and is big enough to allow heat venting too.

[TurbododgePirate]

Nice to see you with some more products Jason.

FYI Jason is a Local Steelcities Chapter guy and makes great stuff. He also has 2 door L body fender extensions. Who knows what will come out next :) ~~H

[altered7151]

testing with yarn tufts on the stock hoodvent on an omni GLHS around 1998 gave me results that there's no airflow out of it above 60mph. under that, it's very turbulent and that makes it inconclusive to in or out flow(and also rips the tufts off). it could be that there is no flow in or out of the vent at all, and the entire vent lives in the boundary layer when in motion. mind you that all testing was done with the entire vent undertray completely cut out, as opposed to only partially cut out on a standard GLHS.

after these tests, i tested pressure in a sealed cowl. and vent top and bottom.(vent to HVAC and drains sealed) pressure fluctuates but is 1-2psi @ 60~80mph. at the same sppeds, the vent has ~1psi pressure above it, nothing underneath it. measured in the center.

with these tests done, i intended to make a cowl based airbox and a scoop to direct some air down onto the intake manifold and turbo for cooling. never got around to the cowl airbox, and for my car, i'm going to be making a new upper plenum with TB on the passenger side so i'll have room to make the scoop duct to a new airbox. i intend on running it both ways and measuring pressure in a sealed off airbox. on the stock one piece or two piece manifolds, there isn't enough room to get a decent duct to an airbox through there. and it would have to be made of high temp epoxy being right above the turbo with no airflow in a traffic situation. which makes that solution rather expensive.

i agree that intorducing new flows of air into the engine bay could possibly disturb the airflow inside the engine bay, the stock vent does not vent out air, but the pressure above suggest that it forces air in at speed. but if you're worried about airflow through the frontmount, then sealing the sides would be a good solution, and can increase the cooling effects and irflow through the radiant devices proportionate to the leaks. i haven't seen one other TD that actually seals the front mount from spillnig air to the sides. and a NACA duct is for ingestion of air without disturbing airflow and causing minimal drag. not for dispersal of air. with a properly sealed front end, the pressure differential from the front of the car to front of the engine should be greater, and even greater so for the rear of the engine. note that chrysler put a stock rubber flap at the leading edge of the Kframe to direct air up to the turbo for cooling. removing that and ingesting significantly more air from the higher pressure on the hood could help intake, firewall and exhaust cooling a lot.
the extra air being forced under the vehichle could adversely affect the coefecient of lift, but with the ground clearance an L body has, even when on the bumpstops, is sufficient to make that a non-issue.

that all being said, only instrumented testing will sort out exact interactions. my GLHS alledgedly arrives on the 19th, and it's not ready for testing yet, but in a month or two i'll be able to take it on track and do some datalogging. which is all too scarce in the automotive aftermarket, especially in the lowbuck TD crowd.

-jason


:thumb: Good stuff, nice to see someone is out there getting some hard data. Once my SC is up and running I have some instrumentation that I plan on using to get all kinds of cool data. One of the things I would like to look into is the pressure in the front cowl area just as you talked about. Its known this is a high pressure area, and I always thought it would be a great place for an intake box. All the documentation I've read suggest there is a low pressure area where the hood vent is placed, and the reason for it was to draw air out, but your testing shows otherwise, so that theories out the windown. It may work at lower speeds, but I think you're right about the boundary layer making it ineffective. Also at higher speeds the high pressure area at the base of the window may push its way up to that vent. Of course the shape of the scoop would obviously change all that. I mentioned the NACA duct because I've had thoughts of mounting one on the front curve of the bulge in the turbo hood. I thought that maybe the rise in the hood would be enough to create a high pressure spot, and that was something I was going to test on the car. Please keep us posted on your progress!

[GLHS377]

one of the reasons i got a zeitronix zt2 is that along with rpm, egt and WB A/F, you can log a map sensor(for reasonably accurate pressure _somewhere_), a TP sensor(0-5v, so i can use another map sensor somewhere!) and a user input of 0-5v, which can be yet another map sensor! but on which i'll mostly be using strain gauges attatching aerodynamics in various cars. just to clear it up, the speed can be derived from rpm. with this setup anyone could log pressure drop across various intercoolers and plumbing, find better wing positions, and aerodynamic testing on ducts and vents. there are also very low cost 0-5v temperature sensor ICs that can be embedded in composite intercooler plumbing, manifolding etc. for logging as well.

since the sane and sceintific way is to only be testign one thing at a time, it should provide plenty of feedback, and the now nescesarry WB 02 interface. my suggestion to all that tweak is to datalog! jsut a few short years ago this cool stuff was far out of reach of pretty much any enthusiast. so my whole point here is datalogging is so cheap now! it's a wonderfull time to be doing things with engines!
-jason

[WVRampage]

Im painting my rampage and it has the 2.2 scoop on it now

[GLHS377]

There hasn't been much interest at all. Far less than anticipated. So it looks like I'm just going to make a small production run of 10 and probably end up stuck with a few of those. I'm dissapointed.
-jason

[turbojerk]

There hasn't been much interest at all. Far less than anticipated. So it looks like I'm just going to make a small production run of 10 and probably end up stuck with a few of those. I'm dissapointed.
-jason

Just so you know....I'm still interested in trying one.:nod:

Thanks
Troy

[cordes]

There hasn't been much interest at all. Far less than anticipated. So it looks like I'm just going to make a small production run of 10 and probably end up stuck with a few of those. I'm dissapointed.
-jason

If the price is some where near what you emailed me back when, I would be interested in one too.

[Skibbe]

How much?

[heavytank2]

Post a price. If its cool I might give one a shot. Anything to reduce the furnace that is a TD engine bay.

[grim]

what he said ^

billy