86 GLHS - Heim Joint Conversion OK?

[jckrieger]

I found the cause of the shifter rod problem... the bushing on the main tube fell out and caused the rod to pop off one of the ball joints. Judging by the large number of complaints I see about the stock shifter joints, I'd like to consider the heim joint conversion.

Do you guys believe this would hurt the value of the car as a collectible? If so, does anyone have part numbers or a source for the various rods and ends on the factory setup? I need the joint that has the 10mm threaded rod sticking out of it that threads into the tube. My joint is missing the insert that snaps onto the ball on the adjacent piece.

-Clark

[86Shelby]

I would recommend doing 2 things. 1st collect a full rod shifter setup; rods, brackets, etc. Pick out the good pieces and set them aside to keep on hand to return the car to factory specs. Then go ahead and do the heim joint conversion.

This way if for ssome reason you need to change it back to the factory stuff it can be done very easily with no more parts hunting than figuring out where it was put in the garage.

[rare_ram]

One of the rods is NS1.

[Marcus86GLHS]

"....Do you guys believe this would hurt the value of the car as a collectible? ......."


no.

[rare_ram]

Yes. If you do it keep the parts to make it stock.

[ScottD]

"....Do you guys believe this would hurt the value of the car as a collectible? ......."


no.

Unless the car you have is like the 17k orig mi 86 GLHS I saw at SDAC-18, I don't think the heim joint conversion will devalue the car. I did the heim joint conversion on my 86 GLHS, shift quality is much better after doing that.

[sy2206]

Unless the car you have is like the 17k orig mi 86 GLHS I saw at SDAC-18, I don't think the heim joint conversion will devalue the car. I did the heim joint conversion on my 86 GLHS, shift quality is much better after doing that.

:D Yes, I agree. I would not do the heim joint shifter on my car(the 17k mile car that was at SDAC-18), but then again, my car hardly ever gets driven. Furthermore, on a 17k mile car, my stock ones aren't wore out, so my car shifts very very ncie.

On some of the other L-body's I've owned, with higher miles and the shifters are all sloppy, I think the heim conversion is a good idea.

As others have mentioned, I would still keep the stock stuff, but if you want to convert it over, go for it. You can always convert it back.

Mark

[minigts]

If you haven't already purchased the parts for a heim setup, I'll post this idea again.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17264

It's easy, quicker, just as durable and will make things ten times easier when working on your car behind the motor. I've been running mine for about a year with ZERO problems and can dismantle my shift linkage with a flat blade to remove the e-clips and ONE hand, NO WRENCHES. All the parts are listed in the link, where I got them WITH the part numbers. It can be done for under $75 and even less if you don't buy the stainless steel parts, but I wouldn't recommend that for these parts that will see wear and weather.

[cordes]

If you haven't already purchased the parts for a heim setup, I'll post this idea again.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17264

It's easy, quicker, just as durable and will make things ten times easier when working on your car behind the motor. I've been running mine for about a year with ZERO problems and can dismantle my shift linkage with a flat blade to remove the e-clips and ONE hand, NO WRENCHES. All the parts are listed in the link, where I got them WITH the part numbers. It can be done for under $75 and even less if you don't buy the stainless steel parts, but I wouldn't recommend that for these parts that will see wear and weather.

Having seen this setup at SDAC, I can say I would do this in a second over the heim joints. Jon took one of the rods off the car and put it back on in a few minutes from the top side of the car without removing anything and hardly got his hands dirty. Very impressive. :nod:

[ScottD]

If you haven't already purchased the parts for a heim setup, I'll post this idea again.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17264

It's easy, quicker, just as durable and will make things ten times easier when working on your car behind the motor. I've been running mine for about a year with ZERO problems and can dismantle my shift linkage with a flat blade to remove the e-clips and ONE hand, NO WRENCHES. All the parts are listed in the link, where I got them WITH the part numbers. It can be done for under $75 and even less if you don't buy the stainless steel parts, but I wouldn't recommend that for these parts that will see wear and weather.

Wow, that is a cool idea, VERY nice.

[minigts]

It was SUPER easy to do, I'm not kidding. I had the stuff off, drilled some holes, fastened the ball studs and had it installed in an evening. I even shaped the rods the same evening.

[Marcus86GLHS]

.......and of course car's like Mark's 17K survivor beauty are not headed to the drag strip for serious ET attempts like some of us GLHS owners like to do. i shattered my original plastic ball joints at Englishtown the first summer i had my car and converted to the heim joints to give one less problem at the track. wil this hurt the value of my car if i ever sell it? hardly. what? 5 bucks maybe.

:-)

[jckrieger]

I'm going to replace the bushing that goes directly on the shifter rod with a 10x1.5mm rod end, then determine the condition of the plastic cups. If they're worn, I'll definitely look at purchasing these connectors.

[4 l-bodies]

That rod you are talking about recently had a 360% increase in cost in the last few months. Bought one for $7.50 (net) a few months ago for my SC. Got my 85 GLHT (with 45k) out of storage in late spring and it broke driving home. Went to the dealer and ordered without asking price. List is now $37.50! This could make your decision easier. At $30 (net) I will never buy another new one. Heim joint all the way! BTW If you do buy a new one, buy the clips to go on all the plastic links (you will need 5 of them). They will save you from a potential drive home using one gear. Ask me how I know about that:p
My buddies mint GLHS also broke at 46K. So Mark, better knock on some wood. I think in has something to do with age as well as abuse it's seen. Everyone knows I have never hit any gears hard in my GLHT! HA!:evil:

While your under there, check that riveted pivot. They get very, very sloppy. Welding it is the real fix for that one. I haven't seen a turbo l body in the last ten years that wasn't loose or already welded.
Todd

[jckrieger]

Thanks for the heads up... I was wondering why that joint cost so much. The dealer quoted exactly that, $37.50 for that little ball joint so I told them to shove it. New 10mm rod end was $7. I'll take a look at the pivot and see what it looks like. This will be my first rod shifted car that actually should shift correctly. My old 83 SC rod setup wasn't too happy and it definitely left me driving home in 3rd gear before!

[sy2206]

My buddies mint GLHS also broke at 46K. So Mark, better knock on some wood.

:mad: Thanks Todd. You just jinxed me. If my cars break now, it's your fault.....:p

Mark

[Marcus86GLHS]

SY2206: having incorrect battery cable ends, for one example, might hurt you car's value a lot more than replacing those plastic rod links under the car with steel links. i could list a lot more detail items that are very visible and might chip away at resale value....................in my opinion.

[sy2206]

SY2206: having incorrect battery cable ends, for one example, might hurt you car's value a lot more than replacing those plastic rod links under the car with steel links. i could list a lot more detail items that are very visible and might chip away at resale value....................in my opinion.

I agree. There are definately things that could hurt the value more.

I think unless a car is super low mileage, or restored to "showroom stock", the heims, or any type of upgraded shifter system is a plus.