weird idle issue??

[glht_omni]

well the r/t has been running great untill yesterday.
i redid the 1 month old vac line job and used as much steel tubing for vac lines as i could and just used rubber vac hose for coupler sleeves between the hard lines and the vac componets and i installed a new autometer electric boost gauge with its own independent 3 bar map sensor.

i started it up, the electric gauge calibrates itself, the vac at idle is 18in and i leave for work, well about 10 min later i stop at a light and the idle is bouncing steadily between 900-1200 rpms and the vac pressure is now bouncing between 10-15in and it doesnt boost over 10psi on a 15psi cal.
i worked all nite and left in the morning and it was still doing it with the engine cold.

i ran the codes and got a 47 which says its a ignition coil problem.

what do you guys think may have gone wrong?

[iTurbo]

Perhaps a vac/boost leak? Maybe one of the new hoses popped off or something. Are you certain it was code 47? If it were a problem with the coil I would expect to see 43. Is the driveability or throttle response affected?

[glht_omni]

yeah i got 3 43's in a row!
i checked all the vac connections and they are all new and tight, i just got to pick up some zip ties to 100% them.
basically every time i clutch in the rpm jumps a few hundred then drops and bounces. if i am driving and barely touching the gas it chugs and sputers some, but if i get into the gas it drives smoother and i cant really tell a difference until i let off.

so you think the coil pack might be going? i have a nos coil in the closet, i just woke up for the day so i am heading out now to double check things and swap the coil pack.

i thought it might possibly be leaking from the 1g talon bov diagphram? if i get between 5-0in of vac and let off, i hear it flutter a little but sounds a little sputtery, i never heard it like that before.

[glht_omni]

edit for 1st post*** the codes were 12, 53, 31, 43, 43, 47, 55
for 53 and 31 i have a cal and the purge solenoid and emmisions has been deleted just need to put the solenoid back in to get rid of the code.

i'll post back in an hour.

[glht_omni]

well i get to keep my new coil pack, new for now.
the pcv vac hose blew off the intake nipple, so its clamped now and all is well, i just need to clear the ecu and see if the 43 or 47 comes back, i think the 47 was from putting 100 miles on it without the 2 tiny nuts on the alt, they are on now.

i really like how well the har steel vac lines with 2" long rubber sleeves worked out, it looks good and i shouldnt have to worry about vac lines for a long time.
i'll post pics up here and in a new thread later and if anybody is interested in doing the same i can get you the same lines for a small fee, there are a few different sizes and i didnt have to cut any of them, just bended them and they have flanges about 1" from each end to snug the rubber up against.

[iTurbo]

Cool, let us know what codes come back. Did idle vacuum and driveability return to normal?

[glht_omni]

yeah, but i have 2 other issues from before, my top rad hose keeps collapsing and i believe i am losing coolant out of the over flow bottle drain??

the next issue is i was told this is a fwd 15psi stg 1 cal, well at 35mph in 4th if i nail it and let it maxout on boost it shoots to 18-20psi, i only have +20's and a afpr, it scares me because i have no air/fuel monitoring, so i dont know whats going on with it. oh the wastegate solenoid is hooked up and i am not using a mbc so????

[iTurbo]

Is the radiator full? Any coolant leaks? Try another radiator cap or buy a new one. Sounds like it's not purging from the overflow tank correctly.

Personally I always run a MBC because in my experience they are a lot more consistent than the factory solenoid setup.

[glht_omni]

its boggling, definetly no leaks, i have only put 800 miles on it since i got it, it sat for 3 years with a split rad and warped head. i am running a t1 rad and up until yesterday it cycled between 1/4 and 1/2 on the factory temp gauge, all of a sudden i see the temp gauge going up and i shut it down and pulled over. the rad felt cool and the head was warm, but not overheating hot, i fill up about a 1/4 gallon and drive the last 2 miles to work. today i noticed the top rad hose is sometimes collapsed when the gauge goes over half and the overflow bottle is filled to the top with the drain tupe pissing on the ground, i filled up about 3/4 of a gallon and then repeated later in the day. i bought a new rad cap, it had a 7lb and advance said it calls for a 16lb so i got the red lever top stanton, it got warm again quickly, i pulled over waited till it dropped to half gauge and then it got colder (1/4 gauge) as i drove home. i just spent the last 30 min letting all the air bubbles out, letting it run with the cap off, cap on with red lever up and then with it shut and it cycles between 1/2 and 1/4 again.....we'll see what happens on the way to work tonight but i plan on throwing in a new 180 degree tstat with the 1/16" hole mod and a new top hose with my extended piece of copper pipe in it.

i get scared, this head has already been milled .030" and i have the thicker mls, i dont want to warp it or come even close, i think the hot temps might have been air bubbles.

i bought this r/t and another one from the son of the owner who said both cars had a 15psi stg1 fwd cal and there was also a spare that was in a nos box but had been slightly used, i still dont know what that cal is, stock or ? so i hooked up the solenoid so i new what the cal ran, i need to swap in the other one to see if its stock or stg1 and then hook up a mbc, i almost won a turboxs dual stage on ebay, i think the course/fine knobbed one will be fine.

also i just hooked up a electric cobalt boost gauge with its own dedicated 3 bar map, can i use that map for a 3 bar fwd cal or do i have to get a 89 turbo trans am map?