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View Full Version : those who make stainless headers, come on in. im looking for good prices for parts.



Aries_Turbo
06-02-2008, 10:11 PM
anyone know a good place to get stainless header flanges for the earlier dohc neon head (same as mitsu 420A)? all i found so far with a quick search was mild steel.

also, looking for a divided T4 inlet stainless flange, 1/2" preferred as well.

and last but not least, sch 10 weld els. i used to have a link for them for 6$ a pop but i cant find it anywhere.

thanks

Brian

Mopar318
06-02-2008, 10:28 PM
First of all, stainless is not a good choice for a flange. Its moves around alot more than a mild steel flange will. I have made both, and prefer a coated mild steel header over a stainless any day.

I have tons of sources for piping. acestainless.com has weld els.

www.mandrel-bends.com has all sorts of bends, anything you need pretty much.

If you are truely stuck on doing stainless, I know of a guy that should be able to make them.

Aries_Turbo
06-02-2008, 10:38 PM
so youd do a braced mild steel header over a stainless one? weld a stainless pipe to a mild steel flange? the turbo im using is like 30+lbs. naah im going to make it all. i just want to know if anyone knew of good parts places.

thanks.

Oh and i realized that id get better hits if i searched for stainless weld "elbows" rather than "els".

Brian

Mopar318
06-02-2008, 10:44 PM
so youd do a braced mild steel header over a stainless one? weld a stainless pipe to a mild steel flange? the turbo im using is like 30+lbs. naah im going to make it all. i just want to know if anyone knew of good parts places.

thanks.

Oh and i realized that id get better hits if i searched for stainless weld "elbows" rather than "els".

Brian

No im saying I would make it out of all mild steel, and get it coated. schedule 10 mild steel ells, and a 1/2 inch flange would support any turbo you can put on it.

The problem with most grades of stainless is how it reacts to heat, it likes to warp alot better than mild steel. Stainless does look nice, but does not perform any better. What are you using to weld?

This is one header I built for a Twin turbo LS1 grand national at my old job. Its 16 gauge mild steel. And its supporting a turbo all on its own. After coating, it only came to about 400 dollars in materials for both sides.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/260187843_877333032_0.jpg

Aries_Turbo
06-02-2008, 10:46 PM
Mopar318 whats the cheapest place you know for els?

Mopar318
06-02-2008, 10:46 PM
Mopar318 whats the cheapest place you know for els?

www.acestainless.com

Mopar318
06-02-2008, 10:48 PM
Oh and like you said before you can weld stainless pipe to the mild steel flange. Just the flange will rust but thats really no problem. If your doing it with a tig use 309L rod to go from stainless to mild. The mild steel flange is going to seal better overall.

Aries_Turbo
06-02-2008, 10:48 PM
maybe ill just go with mild and then have it coated at swaintech but i will support the turbo with a brace that allows movement but doesnt load the header with all the weight.

Brian

Aries_Turbo
06-02-2008, 10:49 PM
this will most likely be tigged by a friend or migged at home.

thanks for the advice.

brian

t3rse
06-04-2008, 11:40 AM
what turbo are you planning on running? i get weld-els from a local industrial supply place.

Aries_Turbo
06-04-2008, 05:50 PM
Borg Warner S200. I think its off of a John Deere.

Brian

Mopar318
06-04-2008, 07:22 PM
No wonder its so heavy. hehe.

BadAssPerformance
06-04-2008, 08:10 PM
I have a 2.4L header flange T3 trubo flange I could be talked out of for the right price... they are stainless tho.

Aries_Turbo
06-04-2008, 10:40 PM
divided inlet on the turbo flange?

Brian

BadAssPerformance
06-04-2008, 11:02 PM
Standard T3

8valves
06-05-2008, 07:08 AM
I have a divided tang T3 flange, but stainless. I differ from Mopar318, as I would never put a mild steel header on pretty much anything unless it was a 100% budget build ordeal. Everyone has their opinions though!

Try bmcrace.com for flanges.

Captain Chaos
06-05-2008, 08:27 AM
I have a divided tang T3 flange, but stainless. I differ from Mopar318, as I would never put a mild steel header on pretty much anything unless it was a 100% budget build ordeal. Everyone has their opinions though!

Try bmcrace.com for flanges.

Not trying to start an arguement between you and Ed, just want some knowledge, why would you choose stainless over mild steel? :thumb:

Aries_Turbo
06-05-2008, 09:29 PM
yeah i too would like to hear your reasoning. I can see the stainless being less prone to cracking but i can see a mild steel sch 10 or 40 holding up ok with proper weight bracing.

Brian

8valves
06-05-2008, 10:26 PM
I don't think a mild steel wouldn't hold up. Then again, after a set run time and the inevitable rust coming into play I might question it's integrity.

Having it be a thick cast pipe changes things though. That's a far more durable material than a thinwall (16 gauge) header. But, it's tougher to fit into tight places with it's larger OD, and pre-set bends, and only a few radius options.

Beyond that? Mild looks junky to me. I know that's purely an aesthetic thing, but to me rusty anything doesn't look appealing, and a header is something that can truly set apart an engine bay, performance wise and looks.

Outside of those points, whatever they're worth, there aren't many fast turbo racers out there with a set of mild headers. Sure they're here and there, but it's not often you see that. Hell, a lot of people won't settle for 304SS as opposed to 321SS!

Opinions are opinons though! Mild sure is a lot cheaper to build. And if you're migging it, I wouldn't waste my time with it being stainless anyways!

Aries_Turbo
06-05-2008, 10:58 PM
i'll have to price some stuff out and see what the cost difference is. i can mig the mild at home no problem but ill have to go to one of two friends houses to tig the stainless together and either of them are over an hour away so the convenience thing comes into play. it is going into a kcar so im not mr aesthetics. :)

thanks for the input aaron.

Brian

t3rse
06-06-2008, 09:11 AM
ceramic coat.

Aries_Turbo
06-06-2008, 02:41 PM
yeah thats what i was thinking.^^

Brian

Mopar318
06-06-2008, 03:09 PM
I guess I just dont like using stainless where a lot of heat, and sealing is involved. Also when your the guy doing the fabbing, its just not as workable as mild steel.. I prefer stainless on everything else but a header. Its a little more forgiving. Using the proper thickness and coatings the header will outlast the engine, and the car its on. Mild steel seems to seal alot better than stainless. Of course you can get some really pricey grades of stainless that are a little more workable.

I even perfer stainless on charge piping, and full exhaust. Just a coated mild steel header is the best IMO.

8valves
06-07-2008, 12:23 AM
I guess I just dont like using stainless where a lot of heat, and sealing is involved. Also when your the guy doing the fabbing, its just not as workable as mild steel.. I prefer stainless on everything else but a header. Its a little more forgiving. Using the proper thickness and coatings the header will outlast the engine, and the car its on. Mild steel seems to seal alot better than stainless. Of course you can get some really pricey grades of stainless that are a little more workable.

I even perfer stainless on charge piping, and full exhaust. Just a coated mild steel header is the best IMO.

Hey, to each their own for sure! I prefer to weld stainless over mild any day, espescially when it's a tight radius header! Funny how everyone has their own thing they prefer, eh?

BadAssPerformance
06-07-2008, 12:52 AM
I made my 2.2L header out of thin wall mild and Jet Hot's super whoopass coating saved it. :thumb:

Captain Chaos
06-07-2008, 07:58 PM
I agree with Aaron on one thing, rusty headers make an otherwise great engine look like A$$. Other than that, I've never welded up either.

Aries_Turbo
06-07-2008, 08:01 PM
you most likely wont see it and/or ill get it coated.

Brian

Captain Chaos
06-07-2008, 08:11 PM
Aaron, you had mentioned at one time awhile back about making headers, what ever came of that? I too need one. The rules say the turbo has to remain in the engine compartment, thats the only rule about it. Of course it also says I must stick with whatever turbo is stock on my car.

8valves
06-08-2008, 12:56 AM
Aaron, you had mentioned at one time awhile back about making headers, what ever came of that? I too need one. The rules say the turbo has to remain in the engine compartment, thats the only rule about it. Of course it also says I must stick with whatever turbo is stock on my car.

Chances are slim to none to be honest. I'm having a tough enough time getting a couple of intake manifolds kicked out with problems anywhere from my debit card getting lost to material suppliers being tough to keep in contact with to even having the time to do it.

The amount of people that would actually end up ponying up "enough" money to make some would likely not be worth the effort. I refuse to make a "half----" piece, but nobody would want to pay a full boogie price tag... which I understand.

On topic: I wonder how long a coated mild header will last before it rusts from the inside out?

Aries_Turbo
06-08-2008, 02:11 AM
On topic: I wonder how long a coated mild header will last before it rusts from the inside out?

I would say a long time... JT's was on there how long and his was thinwall. im going sch10 or 40... probably 40. Plus my cast iron manifold is 21 years old and still on there and cast isnt impervious to everything. even if the mild steel thickwall one lasts 5 years, ill be fine with that. plus you know the life cycle of project cars. :) before long some other motor is going in or something like that. :)

Brian

Ondonti
06-08-2008, 02:22 AM
Chances are slim to none to be honest. I'm having a tough enough time getting a couple of intake manifolds kicked out with problems anywhere from my debit card getting lost to material suppliers being tough to keep in contact with to even having the time to do it.

The amount of people that would actually end up ponying up "enough" money to make some would likely not be worth the effort. I refuse to make a "half----" piece, but nobody would want to pay a full boogie price tag... which I understand.

On topic: I wonder how long a coated mild header will last before it rusts from the inside out?

Most companies coat inside and out so I dont quite understand your qualms. Paying for its not very fun though.

t3rse
06-08-2008, 11:07 AM
most places that do that sort of coating have a lifetime warranty, and they are coated through and through. cost is between 1 and 2 hundred.

GLHNSLHT2
06-08-2008, 11:35 AM
My header coated was $60. To coat my turbo exhaust housing and 3" swingvalve was $100. Black 2000 degree stuff. :) http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2540

Aries_Turbo
06-08-2008, 02:38 PM
where did you get it done?^^^

brand?

Brian

turbovanmanČ
06-08-2008, 02:54 PM
I agree with Aaron on one thing, rusty headers make an otherwise great engine look like A$$. Other than that, I've never welded up either.

You can't see it on an 8 valve, :(

turbovanmanČ
06-08-2008, 02:57 PM
where did you get it done?^^^

brand?

Brian

I had www.performancecoatings.com do my race bike header and a bunch of engine stuff, turbo stuff for the van, killer pricing and lifetime warranty. I have a set of coated headers on my CBR900RR that I bought back in 95, they are as thin as you can get and I probably have 200,000K on them with tons of racing, etc and there not rusted thru. :clap:

I am going to have him coat all my turbo stuff for the R/T, the exhaust manifold too, :clap:

8valves
06-08-2008, 03:23 PM
I would say a long time... JT's was on there how long and his was thinwall. im going sch10 or 40... probably 40. Plus my cast iron manifold is 21 years old and still on there and cast isnt impervious to everything. even if the mild steel thickwall one lasts 5 years, ill be fine with that. plus you know the life cycle of project cars. :) before long some other motor is going in or something like that. :)

Brian

That's a great point about the stock cast piece!

And yes, I don't think I'll ever have a car in one piece continuously for five years!

I would check with the company you plan to get things coated with. Of the five different places I've dealt with, only one assumed and automatically coated the inside of the pieces I've had done.

turbovanmanČ
06-08-2008, 03:24 PM
That's a great point about the stock cast piece!

And yes, I don't think I'll ever have a car in one piece continuously for five years!

I would check with the company you plan to get things coated with. Of the five different places I've dealt with, only one assumed and automatically coated the inside of the pieces I've had done.

Agreed, but Performance coatings do inside and out, :thumb:

Aries_Turbo
06-08-2008, 07:41 PM
You can't see it on an 8 valve, :(

im doing a 16v. it will be mostly behind the head though.


I had www.performancecoatings.com do my race bike header and a bunch of engine stuff, turbo stuff for the van, killer pricing and lifetime warranty. I have a set of coated headers on my CBR900RR that I bought back in 95, they are as thin as you can get and I probably have 200,000K on them with tons of racing, etc and there not rusted thru. :clap:

I am going to have him coat all my turbo stuff for the R/T, the exhaust manifold too, :clap:

how are their prices?


That's a great point about the stock cast piece!

And yes, I don't think I'll ever have a car in one piece continuously for five years!

I would check with the company you plan to get things coated with. Of the five different places I've dealt with, only one assumed and automatically coated the inside of the pieces I've had done.

yeah ill be doing some research. swain tech coatings is local to me as well. like 30 min from my house local.

Brian

turbovanmanČ
06-08-2008, 08:28 PM
im doing a 16v. it will be mostly behind the head though.

Did not know that, at least you can see it if you look, :thumb:




how are their prices?

Not sure, the pricing is online so that way, you can look at swain tech and compare. If there 30 mins from you, that means no shipping.

Aries_Turbo
06-08-2008, 09:13 PM
Did not know that, at least you can see it if you look, :thumb:





Not sure, the pricing is online so that way, you can look at swain tech and compare. If there 30 mins from you, that means no shipping.

post #1 indicates the flanges im looking for. :)

yup. :)

Brian

Captain Chaos
06-08-2008, 09:58 PM
You can't see it on an 8 valve, :(

I was thining more along the lines of "V" engines.

turbovanmanČ
06-09-2008, 12:14 AM
post #1 indicates the flanges im looking for. :)



Brian

Didn't read that-oops, was interested in what material people recommend, :thumb:

I thought you were an 8 valver for life, :confused:

Ondonti
06-09-2008, 01:03 AM
Jet hot does both sides, its not really even an option.

IMO charging for inside and outside separate is just another way to work more money out of a person.

It takes more work to just coat one side.