Code 41&47... no start?

[devlish]

Ok, so my 86 GLHT has been upgraded to 87 electronics, and an external voltage regulator for the alternator.

i had only a code 41 last week, then suddenly the car stopped starting, and now i get 41 & 47 codes. car seems to run fine when push started. just redid the starter and all wires to/from starter. i'm sure that is OK.

here's the thing... when running, battery shows 13.8v so it seems the alt is charging fine. the small coil fields read as follows:
car running, no load: approx 8.2v
car running, with load (lights radio etc): approx 10.9v-11.2v

according to the KnizeMiniMopar site... my symptoms dont fit either of the scenarios. or is the charging voltage too high at 10.9v??? that might indicate bad regulator, correct?

also... how would this tie into the no-start issue?? that doesn't make sense to me. i'd like to fix this first, since i can still pushstart it for now. once this is fixed and code is gone... then i'll know if it's related to the no-start. if not... i'll dig into the no start issue at that time.

thanks in advance.

[devlish]

anybody?

after talking to Cindy at FWD i tried a new powermodule, thinking maybe the internals are bad causing the Code 41&47, which i'm told can be a common cause, and also causing it to not start... that did nothing to help the situation.

anybody got any ideas yet?

[lametec]

If you have an external voltage reg, what did you do with the field wires from the power module? If they're not connected to the alt, the computer will set code 41.

If the external regulator doesn't regulate the voltage to what the computer would like to see, you'll get code 47. The reg might be doing good enough, but the computer sees it as a problem.

Why don't you use the built in voltage regulation?

Your no-start issue is not related, though, unless the battery isn't charging. What are the no-start symptoms?

[devlish]

no start symptons are just that. no start. turn the key, starter solenoid clicks, and nothing. the starter was put in last summer, and has only been used about 2months MAXIMUM, so i doubt the starter died again. there is more than sufficient power to the starter, 4ga power wire directly to the NEW optima battery, as well as a 4ga ground strap from the starter to the block. going to extend the ground from the block to the battery tonight with 4ga as well. we'll see what happens there. maybe something wiggled loose.

2 weeks before this issue a ssmall (12ga-14ga) brown wire from the main harness broke off from it's ground on the transmission. i regrounded it, but not to the transmission. it started right up after that, for a few days. now nothing. does that brown wire HAVE to be grounded to the transmission? i couldn't see why it would need to be, but i can reroute it there if needed.

[lametec]

A ground is a ground, but double check that brown wire. If it's not grounded, you'll have no-start.

And if the starter solenoid clicks, then you're left with bad battery, bad primary starter wiring or bad starter (solenoid).

[devlish]

Well, we found the no-start issue. at first inspection of the starter, everything seemed fine. mounted solid, wires good. the 4ga power wire going to it was slightly charged (the insulation) but seemed good still considering its size. however, as we went back late last night to pull the starter out, we found a loose wire. the ground that actually tells it to crank over, was sitting just off to the side. so our first inspection was a FAILURE!!! i reconnected that wire, but haven't tried yet becuase the battery is out for alternator install.

new alt will be here saturday. the only one that was in stock had the wrong holes for the tensioner bracket... so tomoro night i'll know. but i'm 100% positive that missing wire is the cause for no-start. not sure how we missed that the first time around. it was tucked behind the heatshield, very close to where it should be, just not on the post. owell. figured it out. i hope the new alt fixes 41&47 codes though.... crosses fingers...