Coolant/Cooling Question.

[minigts]

I have a couple of questions regarding my cooling system on my car.

First, I know this has been covered in other threads, but is there a noticeable difference when drilling the additional 1/8" hole in the thermostat? I will probably be replacing it shortly just to make sure my system is good for the trip to SDAC, but wanted to know the value of this and if any one had seen a before and after difference.

Second, if I have a 180 thermostat in my car, but my computer isn't calibrated for this, what will the effect be? The reason I ask is, I think the normal settings and thermostat are supposed to be 195?, is that correct? And if I have a thermostat opening and closing around 180, but my fan won't kick on until 195, is there an issue when idling or driving in the city?

The last one is, what is the optimal mixture of coolant to water? I'm sure it depends on the environment, the extreme cold north vs. the semi-cold south. But what about summer weather? Would 50/50 be to much water for 90-100 degree days? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

[Clay]

1/8" hole - how much difference? probably nothing you will notice. Its used more to keep air out of the system than anything. Thats why when you put the stat in, the hole goes at the top.

180 thermostat will keep the engine a bit cooler, but your fan will still cycle. As for the performance difference, it is probably good for a few HP, but nothing huge here. Just keeps the engine a tad cooler, and you have coolant flowing through the block sooner/more often. Lots of people (probably most) have the 180 in their cars with no issues, and no special tune required.

50/50 IMO is a bit overkill, but works fine anywhere/everywhere. The more water you can have in the system the better, as it has more heat capacity than glycol, but glycol has the ever important ability to keep things from freezing, provides anti-corrosion, and lubrication, so it is important as well. I like 40/60 (glycol/water) but I dont know if I would go less than that. While detroit is north, its not below freezing in June! ;)

[minigts]

Ok. Well it's just weird because my car has been running at about the third bar (not counting the larger one at the Low side) all winter and even until the other day. But yesterday my car ran to about the 3rd or 4th bar below the larger one at the top earlier than usual (5-10 minutes after leaving work) and really just kinda hung around there when I was going about 60-70 on the interstate which was after driving for about 15 minutes, then it started to go back down to the lower area I mentioned earlier. I mean the fan is coming on and everything, so I'm not worried but it kinda stinks for it to be hanging around the higher end as much as it did.

Maybe I just got spoiled on it running so cool. :-\ I will mention that I changed out to a custom radiator that has about the same capacity, if not more than the previous one, which was a factory TII radiator/IC combo style. And I'm running a 16" fan, but no shroud to direct air across all the channels, it's just where the fan covers (which is everything except the corners).

[turbovanman²]

1/16" is the size and yes, do it. It will save alot of headaches down the road.

180 is the perfect summer thermostat, helps the engine run cooler, especially around town and you will help the head gasket live and make a tad more power, plus help with detonation.

60 antifreeze, 40 water or use distilled water and Redline waterwetter or similiar with a few drops of dishwashing liquid.

[minigts]

Thanks Simon AND Clay!!! That's why I want your input Simon, I value your opinion. :thumb: Clay, I value yours, too!! :grouphug:

[minigts]

What is the dishwashing soap for, to keep the engine virtually spotless and no dishpan hands? ;) Should I call you Marge? :D

[TurboJerry]

The dishwashing liquid does the same thing as Redline Waterwetter. It reduces the surface tension of the water so it can flow into the hotspots alot easier. Also distilled water is the best to use. Tap water has calcium and magnesium, so it turns into scale because of heat and clogs the radiator/heatercore besides increasing surface tension. Your cooling system will look brand new all the time using distilled water btw...

[turbovanman²]

What is the dishwashing soap for, to keep the engine virtually spotless and no dishpan hands? ;) Should I call you Marge? :D

Why yes, your soaking in it, :eyebrows: :lol:



The dishwashing liquid does the same thing as Redline Waterwetter. It reduces the surface tension of the water so it can flow into the hotspots alot easier. Also distilled water is the best to use. Tap water has calcium and magnesium, so it turns into scale because of heat and clogs the radiator/heatercore besides increasing surface tension. Your cooling system will look brand new all the time using distilled water btw...

Yep, someone brought that up years ago so I put a few drops in all my vehicles and I noticed it stops foaming too, :amen:

[minigts]

Why yes, your soaking in it, :eyebrows: :lol:

Touche` ;)

So I was on the Red Line site and they talk about using just water with their stuff. Recommended during non-freeze months?

Also, I think I will go with the distilled water, but what is the capacity of our cars (including the radiator), a couple of gallons? Should I do a distilled water flush of the system to get everything out and then put some more distilled water in it or is it worth it?

[tryingbe]

In city, it doesn't make much difference because, sure, the 180 degree thermostat is opening at around 180 degree, but the fan doesn't turn on by the computer 'til the coolant temperature sensor hit 207.9 degree and the fan turned off at 197.1 degree when you're not moving (according to ladybug 60 cal). Unless you have an aftermarket fan control, 180 degree thermostat is not going to help you in the city once your car is warmed up all the coolant and you're waiting for the fan to be turned on and off. You will be at the fan's mercy, and you're still hovering between 207.9 and 197.1 degree.

On the freeway, I found that 180 degree is letting the engine being tooooo cold at winter time, by winter, I mean 50 degree AZ weather.

I'm using with 195 degree thermostats in my cars, even though I live in Phoenix where 110 degree summer days are very common. Though, I might look into reversing cooling my engines.

[minigts]

In city, it doesn't make much difference because, sure, the 180 degree thermostat is opening at around 180 degree, but the fan doesn't turn on by the computer 'til the coolant temperature sensor hit 207.9 degree and the fan turned off at 197.1 degree when you're not moving (according to ladybug 60 cal). Unless you have an aftermarket fan control, 180 degree thermostat is not going to help you in the city once your car is warmed up all the coolant and you're waiting for the fan to be turned on and off. You will be at the fan's mercy, and you're still hovering between 207.9 and 197.1 degree.

On the freeway, I found that 180 degree is letting the engine being tooooo cold at winter time, by winter, I mean 50 degree AZ weather.

I'm using with 195 degree thermostats in my cars, even though I live in Phoenix where 110 degree summer days are very common. Though, I might look into reversing cooling my engines.

Interesting.... Well I did read about the temps for the fan on another thread and that got me thinking about the thermostat and the effect of having it in the car with the factory settings. So would it be worth it to calibrate the computer to turn the fan on at say ~195 and off at 182, comparable to the temp ranges with the factory computer settings and the factory 195 thermostat? Seems logical to me to adjust the computer's operating temp ranges if you change the thermostat operating temperature by 15 degrees.

This seems as though it would be a good idea, but not sure if there are any reasons to why you wouldn't or issues.

[turbovanman²]

I noticed running the 180 in the summer, it takes alot longer to reach a hotter temp and less temp guage swinging but vans do have smaller rads. I would put the 195 back in for winter as it ran too cold for good heat. With the condenser moved in front of the rad, I have to run a 180 all the time. If you get a o-ring thermostat housing, swapping it takes 10 mins.

Run antifreeze in the winter, Redline and others don't stop freezing, I forgot that one a few years ago and snapped the waterpump belt, :wow1: