Check engine light came on

[chipdogg]

Battery died, jumped car, light was on. Took it into shop at school and put a DRBII on it. Had 4 codes (light was off after I parked it for 4 hours but still had 4 codes). One for idle motor, one for alternator field, one for taking too long to warm up, and one for torque convertor lockup solenoid circuit failure. I cleared the codes with the scan tool and drove around the parking lot a bit, maybe 45 seconds. Checked codes again (light was still off), had the torque convertor one again.

I didn't see this code listed on Alldata anywhere or on here. Wtf does it mean? I have a 1990 Lebaron GTC turbo. 2.5L turbo and automatic transmission. I believe it's the 31th, but not 100% sure. Does it have a lockup convertor? I know people sometimes use TD input shafts in their Neon 31th transmissions since they don't have the lockup function and are stronger. I'm not really one for automatics though, 11 out of my 13 Neons have been 5 speeds.

Also, my coolant needle doesn't move but on the scan tool the temp changed and went up to like 180 before I decided that the PCM was getting it's coolant signal and stopped watching it. And the tach randomly stops working lol. And the odometer doesn't work but I believe I've figured that one out.

And the damn back windows don't go down, and I used to make fun of people that drove with the tops down and windows up, now I'm one of them :(

[Turbodave]

Turbo cars got the lockup converter in 91, your 90 shouldn't have it as far as I know. If by chance there was a 91 computer swapped into it that may explain the code.

[chipdogg]

As far as I know it's stock. Did the key flash thing, felt like I was in one of my Neons again, had code 12, 37, 55.

Code 37 is for lockup convertor issue on n/a atx cars, and the baro solenoid on turbo cars. I'll pin it out tomorrow and see if it opens up when the key is turned on.

[chilort]

"Also, my coolant needle doesn't move but on the scan tool the temp changed and went up to like 180 before I decided that the PCM was getting it's coolant signal and stopped watching it."

The gauge and computer get temperature from two different sensors (why? :confused::confused2:). The two wire sensor near the t-stat is for the computer. The one wire sensor on the front of the block is for the gauge. I've had the 1-wire versions randomly die.

[2.216VTurbo]

Like like RT said, they are two different sensors but the one for the gauge sometimes the connector gets loose and just needs to be closed shut a bit for better contact. Also check the sensor to make sure the center 'electrode' portion of the sensor is not wiggly and loose.

[WickedShelby88]

If that code is for a baro solenoid on a turbo car then its probably junk. Check all your vacuum lines and things for sludge and crap in them.. Since that car had a blown headgasket chances are that the lines never got cleaned like they should of. I had to replace every solenoid on a certain after the hg went to the point it clogged every line known to man.

[Dodge Aries K]

The lines weren't nasty. I did replace them all when I did it.

[WickedShelby88]

If it didn't run bad for that long then its something else. It really does sound vacuum related though or could just be a fluke sensor. As far as the temp guage it uses a seperate sender located near the ac compressor bracket screwed directly into the head or at least thats wheres it been on all the 89 and older cars I've worked on. I don't know if 90 is the same. Either its loose or broke which is real easy to do. you can check the gauge too if you find the sender by grounding the wire momentarily just long enough to see if the needle goes up and if it goes all the way. If it does you know its the sender and not in the guage.