just bought a cummins

[WOP'R]

just picked up a 95 ext cab:p

its got 360K km's on her, this is our first deisel and i was wondering what should be done asap...the goal is to have a trouble free truck that my dad can dd...finally:yuck:

what are the things the i should be worried about when it comes to the drive train and such

also are there any good forums for these trucks?

[GLHS592]

Try www.cumminsforum.com. It has tons of traffic. I can't keep up with it.

Here's some good information:
http://dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm

Fix the killer dowel pin:
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0706dp_1997_dodge_ram_kdp/index.html

[moparzrule]

Well, first things you need to do are fill the ''killer dowel pin'' (aka, KDP) and check the fuel pressure to make sure the overflow valve doesn't need replaced. The overflow valve is the number 2 cause of low fuel pressure, 1st is a clogged filter or pickup.
After that, just check normal routine things that other people don't do. Check the belts and hoses, flush coolant and change the oil/filter.
After that, get yourself some new valve cover gaskets, and get to adjusting those valves. The book call's for something like .013/.023 clearances, many others and I just set it to .010/.020 for max performance and simplicity.
Don't forget to check all the U joints too, especially the ones in the front axle. One of mine had a busted cap! Just glad I caught it before any carnage occurred. Beware, that U-joint was the biggest PITA that I ever had changing!

[WOP'R]

should anything be replaced due to the milage for "safety" reasons?

[moparzrule]

Yeah the killer dowel pin! (doesn't get replaced but you use a tab to block it from coming out)
http://www.pdrdiesel.com/oldsite/TechKDP.htm

Other than that, just check things I mentioned like the U joints, valve adjustment, and belts+hoses.

[moparzrule]

Here's the kit I used on my 94', my front crank seal was leaking so it was nice that it was included in the kit.
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=64

And instructions from the same site-
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf

[GLHS592]

BTW, this thread would be better if it had pictures of said truck.

[moparzrule]

hehe, +1

[WOP'R]

well i was sapposed to go pick up the truck in a bit but the finding that i have found on my vehicle history search is making me want to change my mind...

these buggers told me it was only in little fender benders...not so much

latest collision repair was for a total of $5914.66!!

[GLHS592]

That seems like a lot of money for a "fender bender", but body repair work is expensive. The bill on my wife's Stratus was just under $6000. That included a new hood, fascia/brackets, front bumper/brackets, radiator, radiator support, A/C condenser, various other brackets and small parts, and time on a frame jig.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Stratus_Wreck_P4100107.JPG

[WOP'R]

OK i got it...
I dont have any pics that i took myself but heres the ad with pics
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/car/656678179.html

[moparzrule]

That seems like a lot of money for a "fender bender", but body repair work is expensive. The bill on my wife's Stratus was just under $6000. That included a new hood, fascia/brackets, front bumper/brackets, radiator, radiator support, A/C condenser, various other brackets and small parts, and time on a frame jig.
]


Wow the frame Jig must have really upped the price our something. My brother hit a deer with his ram and had to repalce almost everything you mentioned there besides the frame deal and it was about $2000.

[Turbodave]

well i was sapposed to go pick up the truck in a bit but the finding that i have found on my vehicle history search is making me want to change my mind...

these buggers told me it was only in little fender benders...not so much

latest collision repair was for a total of $5914.66!!


It was $5900 to fix my 96 Ram a few years ago when I hit a deer. The damage wasn't even that bad, no frame or mechanical damage, just the hood, grill, core support, radiator, A/C condensor, bumper and trim, passenger fender, headlight, and the airbag/clockspring. I did some of the work myself and saved a few$, but it still cost over 3k for parts. While the cost was significant I wouldn't call it much more than a fender bender, certainly not the kind of damage that would prevent me from buying a vehicle.

[moparzrule]

WTF man, you guys got seriously raped by the body shops.

[GLHS592]

WTF man, you guys got seriously raped by the body shops.

That's where my insurance told me to take it. They paid for it. I didn't care as long as it was fixed. ;)

[Turbodave]

That's where my insurance told me to take it. They paid for it. I didn't care as long as it was fixed. ;)

Same deal with me, $5900 was what the insurance company check was for based upon their estimate.

[moparzrule]

Yeah, well you get raped anyway because that kind of crap make insurance premiums rise.

[WOP'R]

what kind of tranny fluid are you guys running?

[moparzrule]

Did you buy it? Didn't sound like you were going to get it for a minute there.

[88_pacifica]

OK i got it...
I dont have any pics that i took myself but heres the ad with pics
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/car/656678179.html

He got it...

[1FastCSX289]

FIRST THING you should do is convert it to run on waste veggie oil. Once you've joined the diesel owners club, theres no reason to be paying for fuel anymore! The Cummins LOVES veggie.....especially the 12 valve. Ive got an 85 benz with 50k on WVO and I just bought a 97 Chevy 2500 I just converted and is running great. 4.50 a gallon is freakin ridiculous!

[moparzrule]

He got it...

Woops I missed that small post in between the posts with a bunch of pics.

As for the veggie oil, I wouldn't do that FIRST. Obviously routine maintenance should be done first, and fix the KDP! This is a very important problem, if that dowel pin falls out it can serously trash stuff causing hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of damage. NOT kidding and no exageration.

[WOP'R]

i already fixed the KDP

the lift pump just went and now im stranded!

[moparzrule]

Are you sure it is the lift pump? Could be overflow valve, clogged fuel filter, or clogged pickup as well. Just saying because the lift pump alone doesn't usually go out completely. It's normally the combination of 2 or more of what I listed. Your overflow valve is probably weak too.
OK when I first posted I said to do the KDP, and the very next thing I said was to check the fuel pressure. This is to check to see if something is on it's way out.
Did you change the fuel filter?

Anyway, the lift pump is not too expensive, and it relatively easy to change. It's about $100 or so, I actually got mine for $70 shipped off ebay. For the overflow valve, get that from Piers Diesel, runs about $40 or so I forget as I've been out of the loop for 2-3 years with the cummins trucks.

BTW, I had one more thought. Be sure to make sure the shutoff selenoid is not the culprit. This is the only electronic device on the engine besides the starter. Located on the driver side, near the fuel filter. When you turn the ignition on, make sure the selenoid shaft moves about 2 inches or so. Have another person turn the ignition on as you watch, if it does move but only moves like 1/2 inch or so, use your finger and manually press it the rest of the way. The shutoff selenoid does just what it says, shuts the fuel off to the injection pump and that is how the engine shuts off. This selenoid is a common issue for a no-start situation, you should definitely check it out.
Here's what it looks like-
http://www.citydiesel.net/shutoff-solenoid-12v-direct-replacement-p-117.html?cPath=22_26_48&osCsid=j8pgbeu0a0220au52l9bp4p4d3

[WOP'R]

fuel is leaking from the lift pump. left a nice puddle from trying to crank the truck over.

around here the left pumps go for $200+...gotta love canada:(

[moparzrule]

Well, I believe there are some rubber lines you should check under there as well. Have you pinpointed it coming exactly from the weep hole in the lift pump?
Try ebay then, only problem is you'll have to wait awhile to get it. Check for some people on canada selling a lift pump, worth a shot to look.

[WOP'R]

well when we bought the truck we knew it needed work...

the start stop solenoid just crapped out

... im in need of a water in fuel sensor/drain plug for the fuel filter (one unit)
and the in tank fuel gauge sending unit

i went to the local dealer for these parts and i think this is way to much...
sensor-$88
unit-$166

anyone know of any parts stores that charge less than this?

[moparzrule]

Well, one of the wires ripped out of my water in the fuel sensor, but I never replaced it LOL. I just drained it for a second or 2 about every other fuel fill. You can see the difference between water and fuel.
I seem to recall the WIF sensor being $40 something at my dealer. This was not the Dodge dealer, I went to the Cummins dealer.

[moparzrule]

Oh and BTW my fuel gauge was never right it would go all over the place. But, my low fuel light worked. Basically I set the trip meter everytime I got fuel, about every 500 miles I would fill up. I was only getting 17 MPG because I have a heavy right foot LOL. So you could potentially go further than 500. About 550 miles the low fuel light would come on, and at that point it would take 32 gallons to fill of the 35 gallon tank.

[Turbodave]

Fuel level sender can be fixed for less than $1, just time consuming to drop the tank.

The float for the sender is at the end of a wire which pivots in a nylon bracket. The nylon wears out and lets the assembly move enough that there isn't contact with the resistive element anymore. The fix is to make a bushing where the wire goes through. I used the shell of a pop-rivet on our 96, but you could also look into a nylon or brass bushing.

[WOP'R]

low fuel light doesnt work:) along with the trip meter:)

[moparzrule]

Damn! Well I guess that stuff needs fixed then LOL.