Delta Cams-anyone running them?

[turbovanman²]

I have wopr's car, stock rebuild 92 IROC, I degreed the cams so I know there bang on, he's using Delta's stage 1. This engine is soooooo lazy in revs and has NO idle vacuum. Anyone run them and found similiar issues or ?

[Turbo224]

I have the LW cams and have similar results. Getting about 12-13 at idle, and spool up time is not the greatest. You have the adjustable cam gears, have you tried advancing/retarding them at all? I know Alan had a lot of luck with retarding his exhaust side a couple degrees in Vegas.

[bansheenut420]

I have the LW cams and have similar results. Getting about 12-13 at idle, and spool up time is not the greatest. You have the adjustable cam gears, have you tried advancing/retarding them at all? I know Alan had a lot of luck with retarding his exhaust side a couple degrees in Vegas.

I have stage one LW cams in mine and have no problems. I get a nice 17-18 in. of vac. Sorry, but I dont think its the cams. ;) My RT makes more vac then my shelby does. Spool up time is because of the wheel you got. :nod:

Datalog at idle.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj95/bansheenut420/Idledatalog.jpg

[turbovanman²]

I haven't touched the gears yet, trying to rule out things before I start messing around and spending his money, lol! :clap:

[WOP'R]

I haven't touched the gears yet, trying to rule out things before I start messing around and spending his money, lol! :clap:

HAHA!! thanks buddy:thumb::(

not only is it lazy but once its warm the damn thing doesnt want to run! whenever the clutch is pressed in it dies!

BTW we need help asap!!!! i now dont have a car cause of this mess and my car is taking up space at turbovanman's shop!!!!

[turbovanman²]

my car is taking up space at turbovanman's shop!!!!

Thats ok, $50 a day storage, :evil:

[iTurbo]

Dies when the clutch is pressed in huh? Sure there isn't an issue with the crank position sensor? I think Cindy @ FWDP had this happen on an R/T she used to have and it turned out the bellhousing bolts were loose and the trans/enging would separate slightly when the clutch was depressed, causing the CPS to go haywire. I would imagine excessive thrust bearing clearance could do the same thing.

I have LWP stage I cams in my R/T and it is VERY lazy down low. Forget about stoplight racing. I almost regret getting them, but my original cams were beat up pretty bad. I like the upper RPM performance a lot, but driveability has suffered and I have low idle vacuum. At my elevation I only get about 5 in/hg at cold startup, and it is 8-10 in/hg when warmed up depending on the weather. It bucks/surges when it's cold too. Interestingly I get very good gas mileage though.

[iTurbo]

Forgot to add, I have centerlined my cams using FWDP adjustable cam gears and it didn't really make any difference. I tried stock centerlines, and the centerlines suggested by Wallace. Seems more susceptible to detonation too. I have had the car running in it's current state for over two years and have yet to raise the boost past 10 psi. Audible detonation confirmed with OTC 4000E. Tried 100 octane lo-lead aviation gas and the car loved it, no KR at all.

[bansheenut420]

I must have gotten a different grind then the rest of ya. :D Only lazy part on the car down low was the turbo. Never seen and KR, even at 18 psi with a adj zeiner on the stock cal (was spraying some meth up that high though) 13-14 in of vac when cold, 17-18 when warm. I am also running stock cam gears. Sounds like somthing else going on to me. I know there are lots more people using and loving these cams, then people having problems with them.

[iTurbo]

If anybody else is having trouble, I'd love to hear what kinds of symptoms they are having. If I could easily swap a set of stock cams back in, I would have done it long ago. I'm hesitant to get regrinds of any kind now. The car is not fun to drive around town. It bogs sooo easy....stock turbo seems to spool up just fine; I don't think that is the problem. I recently bought another Spirit R/T on eBay with a blown turbo....even with a bad turbo, it would get up and move much more easily than my cammed R/T.

[bansheenut420]

If anybody else is having trouble, I'd love to hear what kinds of symptoms they are having. If I could easily swap a set of stock cams back in, I would have done it long ago. I'm hesitant to get regrinds of any kind now. The car is not fun to drive around town. It bogs sooo easy....stock turbo seems to spool up just fine; I don't think that is the problem. I recently bought another Spirit R/T on eBay with a blown turbo....even with a bad turbo, it would get up and move much more easily than my cammed R/T.

Thats the thing, I dont know of anyone else who is having similar problems. Even one of the guys running his stage 2s arent having problems.

[turbovanman²]

I must have gotten a different grind then the rest of ya. :D Only lazy part on the car down low was the turbo. Never seen and KR, even at 18 psi with a adj zeiner on the stock cal (was spraying some meth up that high though) 13-14 in of vac when cold, 17-18 when warm. I am also running stock cam gears. Sounds like somthing else going on to me. I know there are lots more people using and loving these cams, then people having problems with them.

Its entirely possible, if the cam grinder didn't do all the grinds at the same time or his machine is off, they all could be slightly different.


If anybody else is having trouble, I'd love to hear what kinds of symptoms they are having. If I could easily swap a set of stock cams back in, I would have done it long ago. I'm hesitant to get regrinds of any kind now. The car is not fun to drive around town. It bogs sooo easy....stock turbo seems to spool up just fine; I don't think that is the problem. I recently bought another Spirit R/T on eBay with a blown turbo....even with a bad turbo, it would get up and move much more easily than my cammed R/T.

I am in the process of coming out with some radical TIII cams, nothing we've ever seen, that will offer more power everywhere and be 100% streetable. Just need to get the van running, tuned then I can swap in the cams I've made and do some testing, :thumb:

[bansheenut420]

Its entirely possible, if the cam grinder didn't do all the grinds at the same time or his machine is off, they all could be slightly different.



I am in the process of coming out with some radical TIII cams, nothing we've ever seen, that will offer more power everywhere and be 100% streetable. Just need to get the van running, tuned then I can swap in the cams I've made and do some testing, :thumb:

Well, If there was a mess up, it was on his cams. Not mine. Lots of people runing these cams with NO problems whatsoever.

My LW cams are 100% streetable, make power to 9k, and makes power everywhere. I am totally happy with them, and will be putting a bigger set in my new shortblock I am building. :D

[iTurbo]

Cool cool. Let us know how it goes with WOP'Rs car. I'm at my wits end with mine. As soon as I get the white R/T running, I'm just going to store the red one now that it's so unfun.

[bansheenut420]

I would like to see a side by side comparison once they are done as well. :D

[WOP'R]

I would like to see a side by side comparison once they are done as well. :D


and i would like to see my car RUN! hehe:confused:

anyone out there thinking it may be something else?

[turbovanman²]

Well, If there was a mess up, it was on his cams. Not mine. Lots of people runing these cams with NO problems whatsoever.

My LW cams are 100% streetable, make power to 9k, and makes power everywhere. I am totally happy with them, and will be putting a bigger set in my new shortblock I am building. :D


Well your cams were done by LW, not sure who he's using but if he is using Delta, they weren't done at the same time Rob's were. Like I said, everytime they do a set of cams, the machine has to be setup, if they set it up wrongly, you can have a bad set of cams. Yours work great but it seems other LW cams dont' work, so hey, who knows, :o

As for mine, they should make more power and be 100% streetable, and my van will be the mule. Like I said, have to tune it as it sits, then swap out and run the same boost and try not to tune, just to see if there is a gain or ?

[iTurbo]

Here's a question for you all....Let's say your stock cams are in bad shape....one or more lobes having massive gouges or other damage. Could it be so bad that stage I is impossible, because not enough material would have been removed to 'uncover' the damage? I'm thinking my cams could have been bad enough that they just decided to give me stage II or something else. Just a thought.

[turbovanman²]

Here's a question for you all....Let's say your stock cams are in bad shape....one or more lobes having massive gouges or other damage. Could it be so bad that stage I is impossible, because not enough material would have been removed to 'uncover' the damage? I'm thinking my cams could have been bad enough that they just decided to give me stage II or something else. Just a thought.

That is entirely possible but they can also weld up the lobe and then remachine. Thats how regrinds work, the cut down the base circle so give you more lift and duration. You can check what you've got by degreeing them and checking the lift.

[bansheenut420]

Well your cams were done by LW, not sure who he's using but if he is using Delta, they weren't done at the same time Rob's were. Like I said, everytime they do a set of cams, the machine has to be setup, if they set it up wrongly, you can have a bad set of cams. Yours work great but it seems other LW cams dont' work, so hey, who knows, :o

As for mine, they should make more power and be 100% streetable, and my van will be the mule. Like I said, have to tune it as it sits, then swap out and run the same boost and try not to tune, just to see if there is a gain or ?

But, there are FAR more people not having problems. There are guys running stage 2 with out problems.

And with your cams, I would like to see a strait swap... Put one set in, dyno, swap (chaning nothing) and re dyno. I would really be interested in seeing that.

[bansheenut420]

Here's a question for you all....Let's say your stock cams are in bad shape....one or more lobes having massive gouges or other damage. Could it be so bad that stage I is impossible, because not enough material would have been removed to 'uncover' the damage? I'm thinking my cams could have been bad enough that they just decided to give me stage II or something else. Just a thought.

I have my stockers in my spare head, would it help if I measured them? I know we had talked about the possiblity of them being stage 2. Let me know if I can help.

[turbovanman²]

But, there are FAR more people not having problems. There are guys running stage 2 with out problems.

And with your cams, I would like to see a strait swap... Put one set in, dyno, swap (chaning nothing) and re dyno. I would really be interested in seeing that.

Thats the plan, but adjusting for the same boost of course, :D


I have my stockers in my spare head, would it help if I measured them? I know we had talked about the possiblity of them being stage 2. Let me know if I can help.


Measuring them off the car so to speak doesn't really work, you need to measure them at the valve.

[iTurbo]

Crap, I can't believe I didn't bother to measure lift when I centerlined them. It will be a while before I dig into my red R/T again....the white R/T is keeping me more than busy at the moment.

[Pat]

Well, If there was a mess up, it was on his cams. Not mine. Lots of people runing these cams with NO problems whatsoever.

My LW cams are 100% streetable, make power to 9k, and makes power everywhere. I am totally happy with them, and will be putting a bigger set in my new shortblock I am building. :D


9k? What electronics are you running?

[bansheenut420]

I am on the stock cal. I havent spun them that high. But they make power up there. smp proved it.

[turbovanman²]

Update, started it cold and its got 18 inches of vacuum and it revs nice and freely????????? Now I am confused big time, :confused:

I've also swapped out the Stage 3 cal for a stock one and NO difference. Lots of oil pressure and no lifter noise.

[Turbo224]

Update, started it cold and its got 18 inches of vacuum and it revs nice and freely????????? Now I am confused big time, :confused:

I've also swapped out the Stage 3 cal for a stock one and NO difference. Lots of oil pressure and no lifter noise.

Wow, I wish mine would fix itself! Honestly though, I just turned the boost in my R/T up to 10psi and it screams at anything over 4k! Below that it is not really a fun street car. No low end torque. I am reserving my judgment untill I can get some adjustable cam gears. I figure either a few of us got a different regrind, or a few of us dont have our cars setup correctly.

[Turbo3Iroc]

I have stg 1 cams in my car and it pulls good vac and spools the turbo about as I'd expect it to. One question for you guys not pulling good vac, etc. So are you guys degreeing your cams to the factory spec or to the numbers on the cam card? I found when I built my engine that the exh cam sprocket just barely had enough to get it in so I reset the belt a tooth off and it will nearly pin. Just some food for thought as the centerline numbers of these are much different from stock.

[Turbo224]

I have stg 1 cams in my car and it pulls good vac and spools the turbo about as I'd expect it to. One question for you guys not pulling good vac, etc. So are you guys degreeing your cams to the factory spec or to the numbers on the cam card? I found when I built my engine that the exh cam sprocket just barely had enough to get it in so I reset the belt a tooth off and it will nearly pin. Just some food for thought as the centerline numbers of these are much different from stock.

I didnt get any sort of cam card with mine, so they are just set to the factory centerline. Thats sort of why i am going to wait to pass judgement untill I can get some adjustable cam gears on there and fool around with it a little.

[iTurbo]

I've centerlined mine. First I tried the stock centerlines, and then the ones Wallace told me to try. It did run a little better with the centerlines suggested by Wallace. But it was certainly no magical fix. IIRC, the centerlines he had me try advanced both the intake and exhaust. To degree them, I used a degree wheel and a dial indicator set up on the top of the rocker next to the oil hole.

The only problem I ran into while centerlining them was the fact that the dial indicator tip would move around a little bit on the rocker as it went up/down with cam rotation. The results were very repeatable, but may have been skewed. I would feel a lot better about centerlining them with a solid lifter swapped in and placing the dial indicator tip on the valve retainer instead. I've also tried experimenting by advancing or retarding the cams a couple degrees at a time...still no dice. I've always moved both cams advanced or retarded together though.

Other than the sever lack of torque, the engine seems to rev slower than normal, and has awful throttle response. After ~3500 RPM it hauls up to redline no problem. But it still isn't that fast because I can't raise the boost because of detonation! I currently have the boost controller set to 8 psi and have given up on any hope of raising it any higher out of fear I might break something. I've tried checking everything I can with the OTC and can't find anything else wrong. When it detects knock, it pulls equal amounts of timing from every cylinder simultaneously. The only time it hasn't pulled timing with any more than 10 psi is when I had 100 octane in the tank.

[Turbo3Iroc]

I didnt get any sort of cam card with mine, so they are just set to the factory centerline. Thats sort of why i am going to wait to pass judgement untill I can get some adjustable cam gears on there and fool around with it a little.

I think I had to ask Wallace for the numbers also. Without adj cam gears it would be very difficult to dial these in.


I've centerlined mine. First I tried the stock centerlines, and then the ones Wallace told me to try. It did run a little better with the centerlines suggested by Wallace. But it was certainly no magical fix. IIRC, the centerlines he had me try advanced both the intake and exhaust. To degree them, I used a degree wheel and a dial indicator set up on the top of the rocker next to the oil hole.

The only problem I ran into while centerlining them was the fact that the dial indicator tip would move around a little bit on the rocker as it went up/down with cam rotation. The results were very repeatable, but may have been skewed. I would feel a lot better about centerlining them with a solid lifter swapped in and placing the dial indicator tip on the valve retainer instead. I've also tried experimenting by advancing or retarding the cams a couple degrees at a time...still no dice. I've always moved both cams advanced or retarded together though.

Other than the sever lack of torque, the engine seems to rev slower than normal, and has awful throttle response. After ~3500 RPM it hauls up to redline no problem. But it still isn't that fast because I can't raise the boost because of detonation! I currently have the boost controller set to 8 psi and have given up on any hope of raising it any higher out of fear I might break something. I've tried checking everything I can with the OTC and can't find anything else wrong. When it detects knock, it pulls equal amounts of timing from every cylinder simultaneously. The only time it hasn't pulled timing with any more than 10 psi is when I had 100 octane in the tank.

When I do mine, I put the dail indicator to where it is just behind the step up at max lift, try to peep it perpendicular also. Like that it will still move but it's not that much. My fear of putting it on the lower step is that it doesn't have full range of movenemt.


As far as the detonation goes, even if you are out several degrees I can't see you getting into detonation on that low of a boost setting. What electronics are you running? Have you tried swapping in a stock or other cal?

[iTurbo]

I'm using a stock SBEC (and MAP). I've tried another stock SBEC and stock MAP and no difference. I was running stock injectors, but am now running +20s with ~45 psi base pressure. I honestly can't tell the difference in the injectors and still get great fuel economy. The narrow band A/F gauge is pegged at WOT. Wallace suggested I use a Cometic HG, but I had already bought a stock Mopar HG so I used that. The head was resurfaced but I don't know how much was taken off. Pistons are stock.

I'll have to try placing the dial indicator that way next time. I believe mine was on the lower step next to the oil hole when I did mine.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Man that's odd, I don't know what to tell you. I don't see the hg making a difference in your situation and 45 psi on +20's is pretty close to stock injectors.

It's inevetable the tip will move but if you get it as close to perpendicualar as you can then that movement will be very small. And you're still pretty far out on the rocker.

[turbovanman²]

Wow, I wish mine would fix itself! Honestly though, I just turned the boost in my R/T up to 10psi and it screams at anything over 4k! Below that it is not really a fun street car. No low end torque. I am reserving my judgment untill I can get some adjustable cam gears. I figure either a few of us got a different regrind, or a few of us dont have our cars setup correctly.



When it warms up, it goes back to no vacuum, :confused:


I have stg 1 cams in my car and it pulls good vac and spools the turbo about as I'd expect it to. One question for you guys not pulling good vac, etc. So are you guys degreeing your cams to the factory spec or to the numbers on the cam card? I found when I built my engine that the exh cam sprocket just barely had enough to get it in so I reset the belt a tooth off and it will nearly pin. Just some food for thought as the centerline numbers of these are much different from stock.

Using the published numbers for stock cams, I used the same numbers for my stock cams and the van ran ok, maybe I'll mess around. I have read all the threads on the numbers and Delta said to use the stock install numbers too.

Well apparently, Cindy's exhaust cam is off one tooth so it looks like the cam is way out when it isn't.



The only problem I ran into while centerlining them was the fact that the dial indicator tip would move around a little bit on the rocker as it went up/down with cam rotation. The results were very repeatable, but may have been skewed. I would feel a lot better about centerlining them with a solid lifter swapped in and placing the dial indicator tip on the valve retainer instead. I've also tried experimenting by advancing or retarding the cams a couple degrees at a time...still no dice. I've always moved both cams advanced or retarded together though.

I just rest the dial indicator on the tip of the rocker arm and reset it just when it starts to move so its accurate.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Dug through some old emails and found this from Wallace in ref to the Stage 1 cams:

The recommended starting point is 110 BTDC on exhaust and 118 ATDC on intake. You can play with cam timing to suit your driving needs.

[turbovanman²]

Dug through some old emails and found this from Wallace in ref to the Stage 1 cams:

The recommended starting point is 110 BTDC on exhaust and 118 ATDC on intake. You can play with cam timing to suit your driving needs.

I used slightly different numbers-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17269&highlight=adjustable

[Turbo3Iroc]

The stock 121/104 that Ray posted or the 108/118 that Jeremy posted for S1?

[turbovanman²]

The stock 121/104 that Ray posted or the 108/118 that Jeremy posted for S1?

I used the 121/104 numbers, maybe I'll change it to the 108/118.

Is the 108/118 numbers backwards?

[bansheenut420]

Wow, I wish mine would fix itself! Honestly though, I just turned the boost in my R/T up to 10psi and it screams at anything over 4k! Below that it is not really a fun street car. No low end torque. I am reserving my judgment untill I can get some adjustable cam gears. I figure either a few of us got a different regrind, or a few of us dont have our cars setup correctly.

Is it no out of boost power, or just laggy? If its laggy, its probably the stage 3 wheel thats in there.

[Turbo3Iroc]

I used the 121/104 numbers, maybe I'll change it to the 108/118.

Is the 108/118 numbers backwards?

Yes I think they were swapped.

Intake: 121 > 118

Exhaust: 104 > 110 or 108

[turbovanman²]

Is it no out of boost power, or just laggy? If its laggy, its probably the stage 3 wheel thats in there.

I have the stage III in mine and its alot better than the 8 valve, a touch laggy but not that bad at all, :nod:

[Turbo224]

Is it no out of boost power, or just laggy? If its laggy, its probably the stage 3 wheel thats in there.

Well, it just feels flat at anything below 3000 rpms. Almost to the point that I have to rev it to like 2800 to even get the car to move off the line. I did all my build up at once so it is hard for me to tell what my problem is, or if there is a problem at all. After adding the four puck clutch, the 50 trim, and the cams, and many other misc things, I am not sure what could be causing this. After 3500 rpms it screams though. :D

[turbovanman²]

Well I am playing with it today, and the only thing I found is the crank sensor is hovering around 300 hz at idle, then drops to 50 or so hz and does this intermittantly, also does it when the clutch is pressed in and at higher rpm, wonder if this is tripping the computer?

This this is f*cked. It runs great cold, then its like SNAP-instantly, it hits a certain point and then runs like azz, idles rough and its lazy, like the timing is mega retarded but the scanner shows 20 degs or so at idle??? Coolant temp is fine as do all the other readings. No knock signal or retard so thats not it. :confused:

[iTurbo]

Interesting. I for one can't wait to hear what you find and maybe it will give me some new direction on my own car. My car also feels like it has no timing advance down low, although the OTC says otherwise. Does it all the time though, not just cold. Have you checked for crank end play? Or maybe try a different crank position sensor?

Another very annoying thing my car does is the bucking...Say for example I'm trying to accelerate, giving it more gas, then let off just right and it starts jerking/bucking, almost like the engine shuts off for a split second and then comes back to life as I'm letting off the throttle. It does this really bad when it's cold.

[iTurbo]

Well, it just feels flat at anything below 3000 rpms. Almost to the point that I have to rev it to like 2800 to even get the car to move off the line. I did all my build up at once so it is hard for me to tell what my problem is, or if there is a problem at all. After adding the four puck clutch, the 50 trim, and the cams, and many other misc things, I am not sure what could be causing this. After 3500 rpms it screams though. :D

Sounds like you are describing my car. I still have stock turbo though. Honestly I don't think it has to do with the turbo...off boost response shouldn't be THIS bad, to where you are revving way up just to take off, otherwise bbbbbblllllllaaaaaaaahhhhhvvvrrrrrrRRROOOOOOOM!

[turbovanman²]

No bucking, its a brand new rebuild so I would assume no crank walk.

At this point, we have an oil pressure issue, the valve train got noisey today while idling it then when I revved it, it started rapping, checked the oil pressure, big fat ZERO. :(

[WOP'R]

No bucking, its a brand new rebuild so I would assume no crank walk.

At this point, we have an oil pressure issue, the valve train got noisey today while idling it then when I revved it, it started rapping, checked the oil pressure, big fat ZERO. :(


yep:(:confused:....anyone wanna start a fund for me?:o

[Turbo3Iroc]

No bucking, its a brand new rebuild so I would assume no crank walk.

At this point, we have an oil pressure issue, the valve train got noisey today while idling it then when I revved it, it started rapping, checked the oil pressure, big fat ZERO. :(

Uh o, sounds like an I-shaft.....

[turbovanman²]

I don't know, Rob and Jason drained out the oil, full of metal flakes and it was black with silver powder so something really let go? I have to talk to the machine shop that built it on Monday and most likely pull the oil pan and a few bearings. :(

[Turbo3Iroc]

I haven't seen the remanents from an oil shaft failure but that's about what I'd expect to see. If it was bearings I'd expect it to drop real low but still show something. Pull the t-belt and see how easy the sprocket turns before you pull the pan.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Oh boy this is getting good....

I posted previously in this thread that my car with S1 cams accelerated evenly and ran really well, ect. Well fast forward to last night and I just got it running after an an intake and intercooler swap. Take it out for some tuning and all of my normal spots were not available. I did get a nice 1-2 and a bit of 3 pull and it felt strong at about 14 psi. Take it home and I'm going to load it on the trailer to take to the track today. Goto back down the driveway and it won't stay running, I get it rolling and coast it back. I look things over and all I can possibly see is that the timing belt 'might' have jumped a tooth. So I take it to the track anyway. Its now running just as you guys describe, it comes alive at 4500 and pulls to redline but NO low end. I launch it off the rev limiter and it still bogs so bad I get a 2.3 60'. It is also pulling timing out when I lift to shift and well into the next gear. Make a few runs like that and swap in the S3 cal from Cindy (which always nets me slower times than my high rev limit stock box) and I click off 1.82 60's and low 13's/high 12's. Not the numbers I was looking for but much better than it was running earlier.

The reason I think my belt might have jumped is that I distinctly remember degreeing it and the exhaust cam was so far adv or retared (I don't remember which but the hole on the sprocket was just past the alignment hole in the head) that I took it back off and reset the belt with the exhaust cam one tooth off and that brought my gear right near zero on the sprocket. Well last night I brought the crank to TDC and both cams were able to pin. The intake was slightly off but I could feel the recess even though it wouldnt go all the way in.

If I feel up to it tomorrow I'll put the degree wheel on it but I really don't like dialing these things in on the car. It might have to sit awhile. :banghead:

[turbovanman²]

That sucks. I know her exhaust cam is one tooth out so the alignment dowel is not even close.

[Turbo3Iroc]

I could try just adjusting the sprocket to compensate since I am pretty confident that it is off. I actually found a pic backing up what I posted earlier. So it sounds like cam timing is pretty critical here with these cams coming to life. I have no idea why the S3 cal ran pretty well with it though.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Maybe I didn't have the crank fully at TDC Fri night because today the exh cam looks like it's one tooth off, how I set it. I'm stumped.

[turbovanman²]

Maybe I didn't have the crank fully at TDC Fri night because today the exh cam looks like it's one tooth off, how I set it. I'm stumped.

Welcome to TIII land, :o lol!

[Turbo3Iroc]

Yeah, tell me about it. I went to a big intake, bigger FMIC, TU fuel rail and AN lines. I did disconnect most of the emissions vacuum stuff. I only left the vent line to the tank attached to the cannister. Elec connector is the only thing still attached to the purge solenoid and wastegate solenoid.

Last fall this car was running very strong. I made 355 hp on only 21 psi and traction on the street was a serious issue.

[turbovanman²]

Yeah, tell me about it. I went to a big intake, bigger FMIC, TU fuel rail and AN lines. I did disconnect most of the emissions vacuum stuff. I only left the vent line to the tank attached to the cannister. Elec connector is the only thing still attached to the purge solenoid and wastegate solenoid.

Last fall this car was running very strong. I made 355 hp on only 21 psi and traction on the street was a serious issue.

Wow, is that with the cams and stage 3? crap, I made 290 at 20 psi but a 8 valve cal.

[karlak]

FYI
Forward Motion is suppose to be in process of building a 500 hp TIII for one of their customers. I assume they will be using the FAST system they sell. Glad I wont be they one paying that bill.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Wow, is that with the cams and stage 3? crap, I made 290 at 20 psi but a 8 valve cal.

355 was on a stock box with 7200 rev limit and alcohol injection. Stock computer after the recent upgrades was a dog. The S3 isn't even really that fast but it doesn't bog between gears pulling gobs of timing out.

[Ondonti]

For tylers results, one thing to remember is that he and cory are @ 4400 feet elevation. Air pressure here is only 12.2 psi.

Your car is going to run much less vacuum then a car at sea level. 3-5 inches less.

The zeitronix is an absolute sensor so it reads from 14.7 so 18inches of vacuum = 14.

That said, my 3.0 with 7.0:1 compression and much bigger cams gets 18 inches right now (so about 14) with the cams advanced 4 degrees.

I had to put up with increasing the idle speed because the lack of air pressure up hear hurts. Once my RPM's drop below 1000 rpms, my vacuum drops to 12-14 (8 to 10 inches). My car still pulls from idle.

[ShelGame]

FWIW, I just finished putting my Spirit R/T back together with Delta's stock regrind. I set them straight up and I didn't even check the centerline. The car seems to run and drive prefect, to me. But, this is my first R/T.

Idle vac is 18-20in; gentle application of the go pedal results in quick boost (still stock turbo).

[Turbo3Iroc]

Rob, you're right where you want to be with the vacuum so if you did dial them in, you're probably only a few degrees off, if that.

The Stage 1 (and higher) cams have such different centerlines that you can't just put them in straight up and expect the car to run well.