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Turbo224
03-20-2008, 05:55 PM
So I am repainting a few panels on my car that have the typical clear coat fade and I need a little expert advice. I have been practicing on a smaller piece to make sure I have it all right and the clear coat is the only thing that has given me problems. The paint shop suggested that I use some laquer based acrylic clear coat. Is this correct? I applied two light coats of clear to my test piece first, and then followed it up with three heavy coats applied every fifteen minutes (as per the advice of the paint shop) After I was done applying the clear, the piece actually looked really good. I let it dry for about 24 hrs and came back and it stilled looked good, but a little dust had settled on it after I took it out into the open. Even though it was dry to the touch, I was reluctant to wipe off the dust in fear that the clear hadn't dried completely yet but I did it anyway. I used a damp cotton cloth and wiped the dust off and it looks like the dust still managed to scratch the clear coat a little. So my question is what should I have done. Is the clear coat the right type? Should I have let it dry longer before attempting to touch it? I know paint technically takes days to dry completly but I am unsure how to treat it while I wait. After it dries, what should I use to buff it and how long should I wait beore trying to buff it? Thanks again for the help.

1FastCSX289
03-20-2008, 06:55 PM
So I am repainting a few panels on my car that have the typical clear coat fade and I need a little expert advice. I have been practicing on a smaller piece to make sure I have it all right and the clear coat is the only thing that has given me problems. The paint shop suggested that I use some laquer based acrylic clear coat. Is this correct? I applied two light coats of clear to my test piece first, and then followed it up with three heavy coats applied every fifteen minutes (as per the advice of the paint shop) After I was done applying the clear, the piece actually looked really good. I let it dry for about 24 hrs and came back and it stilled looked good, but a little dust had settled on it after I took it out into the open. Even though it was dry to the touch, I was reluctant to wipe off the dust in fear that the clear hadn't dried completely yet but I did it anyway. I used a damp cotton cloth and wiped the dust off and it looks like the dust still managed to scratch the clear coat a little. So my question is what should I have done. Is the clear coat the right type? Should I have let it dry longer before attempting to touch it? I know paint technically takes days to dry completly but I am unsure how to treat it while I wait. After it dries, what should I use to buff it and how long should I wait beore trying to buff it? Thanks again for the help.

Im a newbie to painting too, but I got some good advice on this forum a little while back. I dont know about the types of clearcoat. Cant help you there. I will say that after its done, let it sit for a at least a day or two....preferably three before you touch it. The little scratched shouldnt be a big deal though. If you wet sand with 1000 or 1200 and then onto 1500 afterward that should take it out. After wet sanding, you have to buff it out with a rubbing compound. If doing it by hand, be prepared to bust your ---.

Heres my last thread asking for help and it links to some work that I did.....
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21208&highlight=paint

Turbo224
03-21-2008, 02:56 AM
Im a newbie to painting too, but I got some good advice on this forum a little while back. I dont know about the types of clearcoat. Cant help you there. I will say that after its done, let it sit for a at least a day or two....preferably three before you touch it. The little scratched shouldnt be a big deal though. If you wet sand with 1000 or 1200 and then onto 1500 afterward that should take it out. After wet sanding, you have to buff it out with a rubbing compound. If doing it by hand, be prepared to bust your ---.

Heres my last thread asking for help and it links to some work that I did.....
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21208&highlight=paint

Thanks! I have heard people talk about wet sanding the clear coat, but I have never dared try. I will give it a shot with my test piece.

Birddog
03-21-2008, 03:08 AM
Are you doing a base/clear or a lacquer with a clear?

Turbo224
03-21-2008, 03:10 AM
Are you doing a base/clear or a lacquer with a clear?

Base/Clear

Birddog
03-21-2008, 04:11 AM
Cool. Best advice I can give is when you do your final "wet" sand let it sit. Preferably in the sun if we ever get it back.. Let it sit for a shift, 6-8 hours before buffing it out.. I had an old timer show me this a long time ago and I swear by it to this day. Not so much for Lacquers(much more involved) but base/clear and catalyzed enamels respond sweetly..

Any particular brand??

Turbo224
03-21-2008, 04:21 AM
Cool. Best advice I can give is when you do your final "wet" sand let it sit. Preferably in the sun if we ever get it back.. Let it sit for a shift, 6-8 hours before buffing it out.. I had an old timer show me this a long time ago and I swear by it to this day. Not so much for Lacquers(much more involved) but base/clear and catalyzed enamels respond sweetly..

Any particular brand??

I was planning on wetsanding the clear, and then buffing it after. Are you saying let it sit before I wet sand it, or let it sit before I buff it? As for the brand, I cant remember off hand.

Lotashelbys
03-21-2008, 07:48 PM
Yes Tyler dont even think about wet-sanding it for a week after its been cleared. I would let it sit in the sun as much as possible before that as well for it to "soak"

Turbo224
03-21-2008, 10:13 PM
Yes Tyler dont even think about wet-sanding it for a week after its been cleared. I would let it sit in the sun as much as possible before that as well for it to "soak"

Thats the plan. :D I cleared it this morning and pulled all the tape and paper a couple hours ago and it looks really good for being such the amature that I am. First impressions, the color match is perfect, and I did a good job of taping everything off. The bad is that I can still see some sanding marks here and there. So far I am pleased with how it is turning out though. It really only needs to look presentable for a couple years untill I can afford a proper paint job for the entire car.

I am going to pull it out of the shop tomorrow and let it start to bake. I am leaving next thursday with this thing on a trailer down to MATS, so I am unsure if I will have time to wetsand and polish the clear before then. Either way, it looks 100% better right now than it did with the flaking clear coat! :amen:

Speedeuphoria
03-23-2008, 10:21 AM
normally let it sit 3 days then wetsand it, then the guy says to wait another 6-8 hrs, then buff it. You should Not put wax on it for at least a month or 2, or 90days(I forget).

Whats the deal with the oven? how long and what temps?(I dont know about it so just asking)

TurbododgePirate
03-24-2008, 04:02 PM
Yup, wetsand and then buff. As a first timer I got a buffing and polishing kit from farecla that is awesome. Even has a video.

86Shelby
03-24-2008, 05:21 PM
I would likely go with a finer grade paper when wet sanding to help out when buffing. I wouldn't think twice about starting with 1500, then going up to 2000 or even 2500. The scratch marks will be much easier to remove using the finer grit.

Birddog
03-24-2008, 05:55 PM
normally let it sit 3 days then wetsand it, then the guy says to wait another 6-8 hrs, then buff it. You should Not put wax on it for at least a month or 2, or 90days(I forget).

Whats the deal with the oven? how long and what temps?(I dont know about it so just asking)

I usually sand the next day and leave it sit for a day before buffing, as far as wax goes the general rule is to wait as long as you can, most of the supply houses I deal with say at least 90 days as a rule. (I've used glaze to give it a bump a few times before 90 days)



I would likely go with a finer grade paper when wet sanding to help out when buffing. I wouldn't think twice about starting with 1500, then going up to 2000 or even 2500. The scratch marks will be much easier to remove using the finer grit.

I usually start with 2000, it's not as quick but I'm not doing production work either..