LC-1/XD-16 analog signal eliminating the stock O2 help

[shelbymopar89]

My LC-1 has two analog (narrow band) outputs. It says that one can be hooked up to simulate the stock narrow band O2 sensor. It also goes on to say that some computers need the stock O2 sensors heating element hooked up and working or it will give the computer bad signals. It says to just hook it up and secure it somewhere. Has anyone done this? I would like to eliminate the stock sensor all together. Do these cars like that? Will it throw codes or run crappy if the heating side has no signals? Any input would be great. Below is exactly what it states. Thanks.
Brent

The analog output connector of the LC-1 can simulate the operation of a narrow band sensor while the wide-band oxygen sensor is installed in place of the OEM narrow-band sensor. Factory equipped Analog output 1 of the LC-1 is programmed to simulate a narrow band sensor. Some vehicles are equipped with oxygen sensors that do not produce an output voltage but change
their resistance depending on exhaust gas content. These sensors cannot be simulated. They are used in less than 1% of all vehicles. Refer to your vehicles specifications if you think that your vehicle may be in this category. The same is true for vehicles already factory equipped with
a wide-band oxygen sensor. These cannot be simulated either.
Some EFI-computers will create a fault when the heater power wires of the oxygen sensor are disconnected. In this case mount the old oxygen sensor in a safe place (but not necessarily in the exhaust) and connect the heater wires to it to keep the EFI-computer happy.

[cordes]

You should be fine with those directions. I have an M-300 hooked up in my omni which is simulating the NB output, and it works very well. I did have to install a capacitor between the signal wire and the signal ground at the LM, but that was about it.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I did it to mine. I grabbed a O2 signal wire out of a J-yard car that ran from the smec to the stock O2 location so I could revert back to stock if I ever wanted. Then just wired up output #1 to that wire. Output #2 is a linear 0-5v feed. Anyway output #1 will simulate a narrowband O2 just fine and much more accurately than the stock sensor. I'm not sure if I'd run the WB sensor in the stock spot though.

You won't get any heater codes. Those are for OBD2 cars, where they monitor the heating circuit.

PS I'm running the XD16/LC-1 combo as well. Works great. I got it up and running on the stock O2 1st to make sure all was well then plugged in the simulated NB output to the ECU.

[shelbymopar89]

Cool, thanks guys. I have a bung hole plug :thumb: for the swing valve, plan on placing the sensor around 18'' down from that. Do you use a heat sink? I plan on running the LC-1 wires through the rubber boot for the ---- cables. How did you do yours? Thanks again.

[cordes]

I have mine mounted in the stock location with about 3K miles on it so far. I ran the cable through a little grommet I found in the firewall.

[GLHNSLHT2]

http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2537
http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2660

A couple of pics, 1st is where I have the sensor mounted with no heat sink. 2nd is where I have the controller mounted, it's just sitting there in the pic though. I ran the serial cable back from the controller in through a new factory grommet down by the gas pedal area that's unused in the daytona body. The other wiring goes across the back of the firewall with the factory harness to the O2 sensor area and the battery is over there as well so I could ground the LC1 to the batt.

The problem is the O2 sensor wiring is so short and plugs directly into the conroller, so it's slightly limited in where you mounted it in my eyes. I wanted it up in the engine bay out of harms way.