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View Full Version : PolyBushings.com rear sway bar install



Chris Faulk
02-26-2006, 02:28 AM
Johnny Spiva's rear sway bar installed into my '91 Spirit R/T. This thing was surprisingly easy to install! :thumb:

I'll get pictures of the timing belt side motor mount tomorrow.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/swaybar1.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/swaybar2.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/swaybar3.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/swaybar4.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/swaybar5.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/swaybar6.jpg

Mario
02-26-2006, 03:17 AM
How do you like it? Big improvement in handling?

Chris Faulk
02-26-2006, 11:06 AM
How do you like it? Big improvement in handling?

Well the back end is so tight now I can't MAKE it lift or *come around*. The front will push long before the back even thinks about coming around on me.

My bro and I lifted the body from the passenger wheel well and it lifted the driver side at the same time. Huge improvement man.

johnl
02-28-2006, 03:21 PM
Well the back end is so tight now I can't MAKE it lift or *come around*. The front will push long before the back even thinks about coming around on me.

My bro and I lifted the body from the passenger wheel well and it lifted the driver side at the same time. Huge improvement man.

So, somebody please educate me. What adjustments should be made now? What's the next step? More negative camber up front? More roll bar in front?

2.216VTurbo
02-28-2006, 06:54 PM
Wait, are you saying before the rear bar the back used to come around first (oversteer):confused: I've never owned a Spirit RT but it would be the first FWD Mopar I've ever owned or driven that did that.

I didn't like how low the front of the bar sat so I cut the bushings in half and got some new bolts. Tucked it out of the way nicely IMO. New bolts are essential if you do this because the PolyBushings bolts are only partially threaded.

I've put a PolyBushings rear bar on three of my cars now and liked it all three times.:thumb:

Johnl if you are talking about your 86 S car, yes you need to get the front planted better before you improve the rear with the weight distribution of the L bodies. A bigger PolyBushings front bar is a good start. Negative camber is nice if you don't mind giving up some tire wear and having a little high speed twitchyness.

Chris Faulk
03-04-2006, 11:59 AM
Wait, are you saying before the rear bar the back used to come around first (oversteer):confused: I've never owned a Spirit RT but it would be the first FWD Mopar I've ever owned or driven that did that.

What I'm saying is that before the REAR bar was installed (in a tight corner at speed) the back end would flex and lift off the chassis and cause the rear to want to come around. I'm saying the front would plant and turn...the back didn't do the same.


I didn't like how low the front of the bar sat so I cut the bushings in half and got some new bolts. Tucked it out of the way nicely IMO. New bolts are essential if you do this because the PolyBushings bolts are only partially threaded.

I contemplated this, but I haven't had any problem with clearence yet so I think it'll be fine. What I did was turn the bolt around so the head of the bolt faces the ground. Cleared a few extra inches right there.


I've put a PolyBushings rear bar on three of my cars now and liked it all three times.:thumb:

Agreed! I even liked the cheaper and harder to install ADDCO sway bars. :thumb:

iTurbo
03-11-2006, 04:41 PM
I'm having a hell of a time trying to get this polybushings.com rear bar in my '87 Shelby Lancer. The endlinks for the bar will not fit with the thru-bolt for the rear axle bushings.

Do I need to drop the rear axle down and reverse the directions of the rear axle bushings thru bolts? I didn't think this was necessary and it doens't look like Chris had to do this to get his bar installed. The bushings for his end links look different than mine though.

Chris Faulk
03-11-2006, 04:49 PM
I'm having a hell of a time trying to get this polybushings.com rear bar in my '87 Shelby Lancer. The endlinks for the bar will not fit with the thru-bolt for the rear axle bushings.

Do I need to drop the rear axle down and reverse the directions of the rear axle bushings thru bolts? I didn't think this was necessary and it doens't look like Chris had to do this to get his bar installed. The bushings for his end links look different than mine though.

Is the car jacked up, and if so then where are the jack-stands placed? The rear-end must be *loaded* as though it were sitting on the ground. You can't have the rear-end sagging down and get this thing in place.

iTurbo
03-11-2006, 07:16 PM
Yup, found that out while installing the bar. I have it installed now, except there is one minor problem. The end links don't go into the bracket very straight because of the axle pivot bushing thru bolt. It interferes with the upper most bushing on the sway bar end link.

It wouldn't be a problem if the upper most bushing for the end link was shorter. Since the bushing is too tall, the thru bolt for the axle pivot bushing pushes on the top end link bushing and washer which deflects it a bit. Perhaps I should cut the upper most bushing on the end link in half? That would provide the needed clearance.

Chris, I noticed the end link bushings in your pics look a little different than mine. The upper most bushing for your end links is a red bushing that is a lot shorter than mine. I can see how you didn't have the same problem I'm having.

Chris Faulk
03-11-2006, 08:07 PM
Yup, found that out while installing the bar. I have it installed now, except there is one minor problem. The end links don't go into the bracket very straight because of the axle pivot bushing thru bolt. It interferes with the upper most bushing on the sway bar end link.

It wouldn't be a problem if the upper most bushing for the end link was shorter. Since the bushing is too tall, the thru bolt for the axle pivot bushing pushes on the top end link bushing and washer which deflects it a bit. Perhaps I should cut the upper most bushing on the end link in half? That would provide the needed clearance.

Chris, I noticed the end link bushings in your pics look a little different than mine. The upper most bushing for your end links is a red bushing that is a lot shorter than mine. I can see how you didn't have the same problem I'm having.

I'd say cut the bushing thinner man. :thumb:

iTurbo
03-11-2006, 08:19 PM
Ah OK, just wanted to be sure. I take it a hacksaw and bench vice would work to cut the bushing in half?

I just got back from driving the car with the rear bar. It seems to be doing the trick; the car feels much more stable in corners and wants to turn more instead of roll. Car generally feels more solid and steering response is improved, although I've only driven it for 1/2 hour now. I can't wait to put my 16" wheels and summer tires back on! Only thing left to do now is finally get some Konis.

Chris Faulk
03-11-2006, 10:40 PM
Ah OK, just wanted to be sure. I take it a hacksaw and bench vice would work to cut the bushing in half?

I just got back from driving the car with the rear bar. It seems to be doing the trick; the car feels much more stable in corners and wants to turn more instead of roll. Car generally feels more solid and steering response is improved, although I've only driven it for 1/2 hour now. I can't wait to put my 16" wheels and summer tires back on! Only thing left to do now is finally get some Konis.

That'll be hard as the vice will smush the bushing and make it hard to cut. But any way you do it...I'd say cut it down.

I'm thinking of cutting down the lower bushings to get the end-links higher off the ground.

Dude the rear bar adds a TON of rear stiffness...I love it. Once you get the Koni's in (if you have Eibach's now) things will REALLY begin to tighten up. Stock shocks/struts on Eibach's SUX. Poor stock shocks are valved so poorly the car feels like it will bounce down the road.

iTurbo
03-12-2006, 02:53 AM
Thanks for the help and pics. Definately helped isolate the problem right away.:thumb:

It's kinda hard to imagine this car handling any better than it does already, but that's only because it's by far the best handling FWD Mopar I've ever driven.

Right now it has some fairly new KYB GR2 struts and KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. The springs are fairly new Eibach ProKit springs. The GAJ shocks are OK, but the GR2s are horrible with the Eibachs and cause the front to bounce too much. I've done a ton of work on this car in the last six months rebuilding the chassis/suspension/steering/brakes and the Konis are the only thing I can think of to improve the car anymore.

Chris Faulk
03-12-2006, 11:00 AM
Thanks for the help and pics. Definately helped isolate the problem right away.:thumb:

That's why I love my new FujiFilm so much. Costed me $400 shipped WITH a 1gig memory stick and extra's and is comparable to a $1000 Canon EOS Rebel. woo hoo.


It's kinda hard to imagine this car handling any better than it does already, but that's only because it's by far the best handling FWD Mopar I've ever driven.

Now imagine coil-overs and a lighter car!! :evil: :thumb:


Right now it has some fairly new KYB GR2 struts and KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. The springs are fairly new Eibach ProKit springs. The GAJ shocks are OK, but the GR2s are horrible with the Eibachs and cause the front to bounce too much. I've done a ton of work on this car in the last six months rebuilding the chassis/suspension/steering/brakes and the Konis are the only thing I can think of to improve the car anymore.

I have to say that even the Koni's at full stiff are slightly lacking on a heavier car like a Spirit or Lebaron. If you wanted to auto-x, then you'd either need re-valving or bigger sway bars, or stiffer spriongs, or a combo of all of these. :o

What have you done to your suspension?

t3rse
03-12-2006, 03:09 PM
speaking of revavling, anyone know how?

Chris Faulk
03-12-2006, 03:21 PM
speaking of revavling, anyone know how?

Ask James Dempsey Jr. (inmyshadow)

iTurbo
03-12-2006, 04:58 PM
What have you done to your suspension?

Front:
'91 K-frame/control arms/knuckles from GTC
1 1/8" front sway bar
polybushings.com bushings for everything
KYB GR2 struts
Eibach springs
FWDP/Anders strut tower bar

Rear:
original rear axle with solid bar in U-channel, boxed in 12" on each side
boxed/reinforced track bar
polybushings.com rear axle bushings
polybushings.com 1" rear sway bar
KYB Gas-A-Just shocks
Eibach springs

Everything that could possibly wear out is new as well (wheel bearings, strut/spring hardware, ball joints, and all power-steering components). The brakes are 11" vented front/rear from a GTC. I would love to autocross the car, but I built it mostly to have fun on the street.

johnl
03-12-2006, 08:13 PM
Here are pics of yesterday's flog on GLHT - dropped rear torsion axle/shocks, boxed axle, reinforced mounting points for Spiva bar, drilled and mounted bar, installed discs and Koni/Eibach coil overs. This morning cut and welded mounting points for each caliper's rubber brake lines to join its steel brake line.

2.216VTurbo
03-13-2006, 12:00 AM
Very nice John:thumb:

You thought the GLHS car did well at SAAC Vegas, the GLH T is going to run circles around it:eyebrows: Who is your wrenching cohort anyway?

johnl
03-13-2006, 03:26 AM
Very nice John:thumb:

You thought the GLHS car did well at SAAC Vegas, the GLH T is going to run circles around it:eyebrows: Who is your wrenching cohort anyway?

My cousin Bruce; I keep asking him if he wants to go to SoCalTD Night but he won't come b/c he is embarassed - he's afraid you will see the bow tie tatooed on his forehead. Poor guy - loves Chevys but doesn't get to work on 'em. He built two Newport "best of show" Panteras; built the engine and trans and helped me with the 4 wheel disc and Shelby drop for the Ranchero; at home he's doing a 1970'ish F150 for a neighbor.

He drove the GLHS in Vegas for two sessions and when he made some Ford drivers stick out their arm to give him the passing sign - he's hooked. Won't admit it yet. Yesterday he actually volunteered, under his breath, that TDs are well designed! We're planning to tow the GLHT to Topeka with the Ranchero. Yesterday he was helping me hoist the rear axle/brakes/shock assembly from floor to bench and cleaning brakes and running for bearings and lines and such; this morning we pulled the K frame out (which I had already removed/re-bushed/painted/re-installed before) because I decided to replace the ball joints and tie rod ends and (since I'm on a welding kick) to reinforce the K frame; he brought his pickle forks so he swung the 5 lb sledge to pop the ends from the knuckles. K frames on the bench; he's got the A arms and the new ball joints.

Here's a pic of the bracket fabbed for the caliper rubber brake hose/steel brake line connection. Cut and welded the bracket to the front side of the spindle mount.