Reducing Clutch Travel

[iBorg]

I'm new to PT Cruisers. I have a new to me 05 Cruiser Convertible with the HO 2.4, five speed. Car has a lot of potential (I need to learn how to wake it up like a 2.2) but my wife HATES the five speed. She's 5'2" and can't depress it the clutch pedal all the way in and sit far enough away from the steering wheel to be comfortable. I'm open to any and all ideas, no later how simple, crazy or off the beaten path. My local dealer offered no help. I've thought about the SRT Clutch Master Cylinder (they carry different parts numbers but the same bore) and even blocks of wood on the pedal. I'm desperate.

If you got an idea, let me know. Divorce is out.

Mike

[neoned]

Wouldn't you know it, I've been looking for a similar answer.





Hi.

I'm just starting to do a full 1g srt swap including trans. In my research I found that dale seeley had to put a 1/4" inch shim behind his clutch and brake pedals to get the necessary travel in the clutch. From what I've seen your setup needs less travel, would I be able to get away with no shim. This way I can help keep my brake/gas relation the same for the auto x/road course. I like my clutch to engage close to the floor so I have no problems with that. Thanks for taking the time in advance.

Brent.

You need to measure your distances between the clutch face and the inside back of te bellhousing. If the space required is OK than you can run no shims, however the shims is what allows the clutch pedal to disengage so close to the floor and limit travel to avoid blowing out the seals of the TOB.

Did that answer your question?:eeeek:

Not exactly. I've read your shim install for the trans and that's ok. I have a ACT like in the pics, so I expect it to be similar. I'm talking about the pedals in the car. With the SRT pedals and stock TOB you need to put a shim behind the pedals on the firewall to get enough travel to disengage it.


Ohhhh I see.

Yes our setup uses less travel and should help your situation. The travel is about half that of stock..


http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f146/tob-fix-install-instructions-384169/

I think they have a part backordered, so they're not taking orders right now, but that could change. I think they are 300-400 bucks.

This is the SRT pedal box assuming that the pt ones are the same, I circled a rubber plug that one could remove and put a double nutted bolt to prevent you from over travel and bind. The setup will probably be a little jumpy but I'm sure you and wife will get used to it. With the clutch switch I know some cars you can simply disconnect and they work and other's you'll have to hotwire. As long as you are in the habit of not leaving in gear and setting e-brake, you'll be fine.

www.rage-tek.com
They aren't on the site right now, but trust me it's them that sells them.

Yes my office is messy.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u320/Neoned_666/DSC01456.jpg

[iBorg]

I sent Rage-tek an email. Curious as to how big a job the install would be. It strikes me that this would be a bit of a challenging job. I have thought about a clutch stop (the double nutted bolt) and hope to investigate it in a weekend or two.

In looking at the clutch master cylinder. How does it connect to the brake pedal?

Thanks!

Mike

[neoned]

I sent Rage-tek an email. Curious as to how big a job the install would be. It strikes me that this would be a bit of a challenging job. I have thought about a clutch stop (the double nutted bolt) and hope to investigate it in a weekend or two.

In looking at the clutch master cylinder. How does it connect to the brake pedal?

Thanks!

Mike

What exactly do you mean. If you mean to the clutch pedal, the arm on the side has a bar that a loop from the master cylinder goes over, and has a little c clip holding it on. I can take more pics if you want.

And all the work is really in pulling the trans, and making sure your shimmed right. As well because your fluid is more exposed to heat, I think guys have to flush fluid a little more often, but ask rage-tek that.