Hybrid oil feed/return

[jckrieger]

Does anyone see a problem with running 1/2'' copper pipe from the back of the head into the block or oil pan for the oil drain and say, 1/4'' steel line from the front of the block to the side of the head for oil feed? I'm starting to get all the holes tapped for plugging the unused ports and the next step is the external plumbing. I figure the copper plumbing would be very easy to fabricate with a torch and some solder.. and a couple compression fittings to make everything removable. Let me know what you guys think.

Clark

[Russ Jerome]

Two 1/2" returns and one 1/4" feed will work fine.

You still need to restrict feed, idealy with a spring bufferd
flow control device. 20psi or so idealy at hot idle.

[jckrieger]

Sounds good, where can I get one of these flow control valves you speak of? Mc-master Carr?

Today I was able to plug all the necessary areas in the head, though I'm not sure if I'm going to plug the oil squirters or not. Does anyone know what the squirters are there for? I plan on plugging up the block next, then I'll be able to put the two together and start routing oil lines :) Maybe I'll weld up the exhaust manifold first so I'll have that as a reference when running the returns.

[Russ Jerome]

http://www.directindustry.com/soc/f-lli-tognella/flow-control-valves-27843-154434.html?&RefCat=W&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.directindustry.com%2Fcat%2Fva lves-line-fittings-piping%2Fpressure-regulators-flow-regulators-W-422.html%3FCatID%3DW%26Cat%3D422%26Affiche%3D1

Thats a generic I pulled off net just now, Graingers or any big
tool company should have something. You could simply use an
adjustable needle valve shut off its just that pneumatic valves
have springs to adjust for viscosity (warm or cold) kinda like
a G-valve for fluid. You want a small port for better control
of our low pressure oiling sytems.

[jckrieger]

Alright, I'll have to stop at the local Grainger store and pick up some epoxy to finish the block oil plugs and see what they have as far as flow control valves go.

[dodge80_89]

Two 1/2" returns and one 1/4" feed will work fine.

You still need to restrict feed, idealy with a spring bufferd
flow control device. 20psi or so idealy at hot idle.


I have one 1/2" running from the side of my head, do I need to add another to the back of the head?? From what I was reading before, 1 was all that was needed, did that change somewhere??

[whywoody]

I personaly ran 2 off the back,just above the top outer corners of the exhaust manifold flange.My thoughts here were that under acceleration the rear drains would be fed better than if they were on the sides,and I used 1 in each rear corner so when cornering atleast 1 of them would be draining properly.I think the hard lines you are planing would be great,with a small pipe bender they would look very neat,it is what I would use if I built another.I would like to try to use the stock drains in the head,by pressing/epoxy pipes into the holes and ginding the edge of the block slightly to clear them.It would be very tight by the starter,but it frustrates me looking up from beneath my van and seeing the plugged holes hanging almost entirely off the edge of the block,and not looking into the idea more when it was apart.

[shelbyplaya]

I personaly ran 2 off the back,just above the top outer corners of the exhaust manifold flange.My thoughts here were that under acceleration the rear drains would be fed better than if they were on the sides,and I used 1 in each rear corner so when cornering atleast 1 of them would be draining properly.I think the hard lines you are planing would be great,with a small pipe bender they would look very neat,it is what I would use if I built another.I would like to try to use the stock drains in the head,by pressing/epoxy pipes into the holes and ginding the edge of the block slightly to clear them.It would be very tight by the starter,but it frustrates me looking up from beneath my van and seeing the plugged holes hanging almost entirely off the edge of the block,and not looking into the idea more when it was apart.


thats what i was thinking as well. that would be the best way to do it. but it looks like the block would get kinda thin around the head bolt holes and possabley cause stress cracks from the thermel expantion

[TurboGLH]

I personaly ran 2 off the back,just above the top outer corners of the exhaust manifold flange.My thoughts here were that under acceleration the rear drains would be fed better than if they were on the sides,and I used 1 in each rear corner so when cornering atleast 1 of them would be draining properly.I think the hard lines you are planing would be great,with a small pipe bender they would look very neat,it is what I would use if I built another.I would like to try to use the stock drains in the head,by pressing/epoxy pipes into the holes and ginding the edge of the block slightly to clear them.It would be very tight by the starter,but it frustrates me looking up from beneath my van and seeing the plugged holes hanging almost entirely off the edge of the block,and not looking into the idea more when it was apart.

+1 I had my motor mostly together when I decided I needed a more reliable car to drive everyday and bought an srt-4. But if I ever build one again I know that I would try to return the oil like that, even now I still think about the best way to clearance the block without weakening the deck :)

[Garret]

Simple, oval the pipe

[shelbyplaya]

Simple, oval the pipe
pfft, what do you kno wabout this kinda stuff?!?! you act like you know what your doing or somthing :p

[whywoody]

I could be wrong,but from memory isn't there a small 'lip' at the top of the block,meaning that the block casting isn't parallel with the bores right at the very top?It dosen't look like alot of meat would have to be carved off,but again,just going from memory...
Someone with an engine in the build stage should have a close look here,as it's difficult to be sure when I'm looking up under an assembled van,and the curiosity is killing me!!! I just have old headgaskets to look at now.
I preped the head completely before the 8v came off,so it was too late to try this method as the drains were sealed off already.

[jckrieger]

I have a common block sitting in my garage right now with the head off. I'll have to go out tonight and take some pictures for you guys. Maybe we will be able to run the drains straight down with a little work..

[shelbyplaya]

anyone with pics of the 16v gasket sitting on a preped block?

[jckrieger]

I don't have my block prepped yet, but I do have the plugs and a neon gasket laying here. I'll take some pictures of the gasket in position with the plugs when I take a picture of the back of the block.

[lancer402]

Shelbyplaya

I have a pic of the MLS gasket at :D

http://www.geocities.com/shelby16v/blktopstuds.JPG

and other pics are found at the main site

www.geocities.com/shelby16v

andy