Eibach's installed

[Chris Faulk]

So far the Eibach's are the only upgraqde I've installed on the suspension. I dig the lower stance and I really love how the body roll has been greatly reduced.

But my only gripe has to be with the jounce capability of the stock struts/shocks. Good grief do those things suck with the better springs. I feel like a t-boy low-rider truck sometimes bouncing down the road!!

:lol:

Guess I won't be skipping on the Koni's. Heh. :thumb:

EDIT: I'm waiting on my shipment from Spiva to install all the other goodies like bobble strut, poly bushings and motor mounts, and rear sway-bar.

[turbovanman²]

Pics would be cool!

Did you install an adjustable track bar to recentre the rear axle?

[Chris Faulk]

Pics would be cool!

Did you install an adjustable track bar to recentre the rear axle?

Pic will follow buddy.

No sir I did not install an adjustable panhard bar. The car is only 1" lower as measured at all 4 corners on level concrete, and that did not affect the rear axle any.

[Murphy]

No sir I did not install an adjustable panhard bar. The car is only 1" lower as measured at all 4 corners on level concrete, and that did not affect the rear axle any.

with my spirit with just daytona shelby springs and KYB gas a just shocks, my rear drivers side tire was hitting the shock

[supercrackerbox]

Same with Ray's R/T with Eibachs and pumpers.

[iTurbo]

I have the Eibachs and KYBs on my Shelby Lancer. GR2s in front and GAJ in rear. The tire was rubbing the driver side shock pretty badly, and the rear axle was sitting too far to the passenger side.

I rebuilt the chassis a couple months ago and one of the things I did was reinforce the track bar, even though I probably should have bought an adjustable bar from CS Racing or Mark Grant. I had my stock track bar boxed in 12" on each side and a 1/2" rod welded to the inside of it. This unfortunately warped the track bar slightly....but it turned out not to be such a bad thing. When i reinstalled the track bar, I had to push the rear axle back towards the driver side to make up for it being shorter and my rear axle is now centered almost perfectly above the body again. It doesn't rub the driver side shock tube nearly as bad now.

[supercrackerbox]

Whoa, deja vu . . . ;)

[inmyshadow]

I gave up preaching this point years ago. Nobody listens until after the fact.


I feel like a t-boy low-rider truck sometimes bouncing down the road!!

[Chris Faulk]

I gave up preaching this point years ago. Nobody listens until after the fact.

I'm not nobody.

I did not have the money, and needed to get the springs on the car. Hence I am waiting on the Koni's to arrive.

EDIT. Sorry no need for that comment. :thumb:

[inmyshadow]

Hey, I just gave up on saying anything about suspension setups on our cars. I've autocrossed a daytona and shadow for 6yrs. I've been through five suspension setups. I know personally what works and doesn't work.

I use to preach alot about people wanting to use Eibachs, but couldn't afford the konis. Eibachs/konis springs aren't cheap, I know that. That was why I always recommended a different much cheaper setup for anything short of autocross.

I'm a lazy person. I only like doing the job once. Autocrossing I couldn't be lazy. I spent over 100hrs searching for the perfect suspension setup. I've even had a chart of spring rates on my website for 6yrs now about each aftermarket spring rates.

I tried to use my experiences to help people. Soon I got tired of answering the same questions. Nobody really listened. Then would bash eibach springs when running a weaker damper. So I gave up on answering suspension related questions.

As long as you have konis on they way, I'm happy too.


I'm not nobody.

I did not have the money, and needed to get the springs on the car. Hence I am waiting on the Koni's to arrive.

Preaching.....please.

[CanadianDaytona]

I love my Loweringspring/ KONIs (so pricey but..)
However I had an Alignment done afterwards and the rear axel wasn't off center at all...has anybody had this problem after lowering their car 1inch?

http://www3.telus.net/canadiandaytona/Lowering.htm

[Chris Faulk]

Hey, I just gave up on saying anything about suspension setups on our cars. I've autocrossed a daytona and shadow for 6yrs. I've been through five suspension setups. I know personally what works and doesn't work.

I use to preach alot about people wanting to use Eibachs, but couldn't afford the konis. Eibachs/konis springs aren't cheap, I know that. That was why I always recommended a different much cheaper setup for anything short of autocross.

I'm a lazy person. I only like doing the job once. Autocrossing I couldn't be lazy. I spent over 100hrs searching for the perfect suspension setup. I've even had a chart of spring rates on my website for 6yrs now about each aftermarket spring rates.

I tried to use my experiences to help people. Soon I got tired of answering the same questions. Nobody really listened. Then would bash eibach springs when running a weaker damper. So I gave up on answering suspension related questions.

As long as you have konis on they way, I'm happy too.

Is there something out there that fits TD's that is better than Eibach and Koni?

[inmyshadow]

Yes. There are some other things possible

Grant Racing. He offered both a complete coilover setup. Only major mod was slotting the rear spring mount. He also offered custom wound OEM springs. I don't have a workable link, so I don't know his status. He had his white IROC R/T featured in SCC magazine. He also offered some TIII engine parts too.

You can convert the front sturts to coilover status. You can then at least choose your front spring rates to match your needs.

The only problems with going with higher spring rates? Konis are really at they max on the Dodge Shadow Eibach spring kit. I had to run my front konis full hard to elimate any push while on race tires.

So going higher on the spring rates, the front konis really need to be revalve.

There are other options too. Instead of ramping up spring rates, you can add swaybars. This will tighten up an car enough for most people to use the lesser spring kits out there.

The most overlooked parts of the suspension are the wheels and brakes. The less weight, the better/easier the suspension works. This is why I don't recommend huge wheels or the biggest brakes. I use some of the lightests 15in wheels you can get. I also don't throw the biggest brakes at my cars unless I'm going to track events. The bigger calipers, bigger master cylinder and good pads with 10.5 brakes are more then enough for most us. Both of my shadows recieved caravan brake upgrades and great pads. Of course 11in brakes are great to have. But I never had any problems with brake fad durning autocross on 10.5in brakes. This is also a good reason to upgrade kframes to 91+.

On the rear track bar. I only noticed the off center problem on my 92 IROC on the harshest bumps. My right rear tire would hit the fender lip. Never was a problem durning autocross. I'm not experiencing this problem on my 91 Shadow ES running the same setup down the swaybar rear axle.

I have some 10in rear discs to throw on my car this year. I was planning on using the adjustable trackbar, new bushings, rear swaybar and maybe do something like boxing in the panhard bar.

The front will get new bushings and my IROC swaybar sitting in storage.



Is there something out there that fits TD's that is better than Eibach and Koni?

[afsautoworx]

Ive been thinking about this for about the past month. Do you think if enough people bugged kyb to make us some struts in their AGX line they would? Im guessing no because it would have to be probably 2-3,000 people.

[Chris Faulk]

Yes. There are some other things possible

Grant Racing. He offered both a complete coilover setup. Only major mod was slotting the rear spring mount. He also offered custom wound OEM springs. I don't have a workable link, so I don't know his status. He had his white IROC R/T featured in SCC magazine. He also offered some TIII engine parts too.

Last I checked Mark was still around selling things but I haven't spoken with him in a while.


You can convert the front sturts to coilover status. You can then at least choose your front spring rates to match your needs. The only problems with going with higher spring rates? Konis are really at they max on the Dodge Shadow Eibach spring kit. I had to run my front konis full hard to elimate any push while on race tires. So going higher on the spring rates, the front konis really need to be revalve.

Well I almost bought the coil-over kit from FWD Perf. but something happened and I decided not to. I now no longer have the money to go that route. I'd still love to though! For now I'm *stuck* with Eibach's and Koni's. :thumb:


There are other options too. Instead of ramping up spring rates, you can add swaybars. This will tighten up an car enough for most people to use the lesser spring kits out there.

I have a Spirit R/T so my front bar is 1 1/8th inch which is good enough I'd think. I have a full round of poly bushings to install so that will also help a lot. I actually just now tonight finished installing Spiva's 1 inch rear sway bar...that tightened up the rear a TON! Incredibly simple install as well.


The most overlooked parts of the suspension are the wheels and brakes. The less weight, the better/easier the suspension works. This is why I don't recommend huge wheels or the biggest brakes. I use some of the lightests 15in wheels you can get. I also don't throw the biggest brakes at my cars unless I'm going to track events. The bigger calipers, bigger master cylinder and good pads with 10.5 brakes are more then enough for most us. Both of my shadows recieved caravan brake upgrades and great pads. Of course 11in brakes are great to have. But I never had any problems with brake fad durning autocross on 10.5in brakes. This is also a good reason to upgrade kframes to 91+.

I am looking for rims....what brand/style do you have on your Shadow? Again, my R/T brakes are the best OE pieces I can get. Aside from new rotors and brake pads I'm good to go.


On the rear track bar. I only noticed the off center problem on my 92 IROC on the harshest bumps. My right rear tire would hit the fender lip. Never was a problem durning autocross. I'm not experiencing this problem on my 91 Shadow ES running the same setup down the swaybar rear axle.

Same here for me...no rubbing issues yet and I've gone through some turns well faster than I should've. :eyebrows:


I have some 10in rear discs to throw on my car this year. I was planning on using the adjustable trackbar, new bushings, rear swaybar and maybe do something like boxing in the panhard bar. The front will get new bushings and my IROC swaybar sitting in storage.

I don't have a spare so boxing in my panhard bar will be hard to get done. One of these days when I get a free Saturday maybe. :(

Thanks for the help man! :thumb:

[Chris Faulk]

Here's a side view of how the cars' stance looks.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/side-view2.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/side-view1.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/go-to73/1991%20Spirit%20RT/side-view3.jpg

[inmyshadow]

I use kosei k1s when its warm out. They are 13lbs a wheel. If you look at my picture, they are mounted on my shadow. I only painted them black, a color you can't get them.

For the money Kosei at the time had the lightest wheel for the cost. I wasn't going to spend 300 bucks per wheel for some SSRs. Now tirerack offers many other brands of lightweight wheels for under 150 a piece.

later



I am looking for rims....what brand/style do you have on your Shadow? A

[turbovanman²]

Ive been thinking about this for about the past month. Do you think if enough people bugged kyb to make us some struts in their AGX line they would? Im guessing no because it would have to be probably 2-3,000 people.


Thats not a bad idea, have you contacted them and see if there interested?


Looks good Chris, :thumb:

I put the 11's on my van, yee ha, what a difference. I also stepped up to the B150 master cylinder 1 1/8 bore, another big difference but yeah, I think your stock brakes with a bigger m/c, better pads would be a killer stopping machine. :nod:

[Chris Faulk]

Thats not a bad idea, have you contacted them and see if there interested?

Looks good Chris, :thumb:

I put the 11's on my van, yee ha, what a difference. I also stepped up to the B150 master cylinder 1 1/8 bore, another big difference but yeah, I think your stock brakes with a bigger m/c, better pads would be a killer stopping machine. :nod:

KYB won't handle such a small order unless someone was willing to front the tooling cost. Anybody here got that kind coin?! :cool:

Better master cylinder than the stock R/T piece? I didn't think there was one...which would that be? Yeah I'm looking into better pads now...what is there out there?

Well the car as it is bone stock plus the 2.5" mandrel exhaust scoots plenty well for my needs! :thumb: My major concern is being able to stop and turn really good before being able to go fast in a simple straight line. I want a well-rounded and balanced car this time is what I'm saying. :amen: :eyebrows:

[turbovanman²]

The stock M/C is 24mm or just under 1 inch, so the 1 1/8 really firms up the pedal and weeeeeeeee. I can get you the part number tomorrow when I am at work. You simply need to get a couple of adapters from a parts store to mate up the lines, the B M/C uses bigger lines. This way, its a bolt on deal, no cutting etc.

Hawk makes pads, EBC and a few others.

[Chris Faulk]

The stock M/C is 24mm or just under 1 inch, so the 1 1/8 really firms up the pedal and weeeeeeeee. I can get you the part number tomorrow when I am at work. You simply need to get a couple of adapters from a parts store to mate up the lines, the B M/C uses bigger lines. This way, its a bolt on deal, no cutting etc.

Hawk makes pads, EBC and a few others.

Yes sir some part numbers would be grand thank you! The adaptors I can manage, but if you know the sizes I'd appreciate that info. :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Yes sir some part numbers would be grand thank you! The adaptors I can manage, but if you know the sizes I'd appreciate that info. :thumb:

The sizes, I don't know. But any half decent parts store carries bins of brass adapters so you just need to match them up. Obviously, the M/C will be easy, you just find the ones that screw in. You will have to look at your old ones or take in your old M/C to find the old line size, I am brain farting but I seem to remember its just standard 3/16 line.

[Chris Faulk]

Get the part number for that master cylinder yet? :eyebrows: