2.0L dohc turbo neon project

[shadow88]

This belongs to my friend and co-worker. This was part of the mock-up fitting the srt-4 turbo/manifold to the 2.0L neon engine.

Oil feed to the turbo from removed head plug.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon1.jpg

Stock srt-4 manifold, turbo and O2 housing (downpipe).

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon2.jpg


The block will be drilled and tapped for an oil return just to the right of the hose in this picture.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon3.jpg

Coolant feed. A modified freeze plug with a bung TIG welded and a fitting threaded in.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon5.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon4.jpg


Coolant return tees into the heater tubes with a hardware store brass fitting.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon6.jpg


And the front of the engine.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/turboneon7.jpg

Now that the engine mock up is almost complete, we tear it down for a low compression rebuild.

All thoughts, ideas, comments, questions and criticism are welcome.

[turbovanman²]

Looks like it should be alot of fun. What are the goals?

My only critism is the use of a frost plug for a fitting, the vibration of the hose etc could cause it to leak or come out of the block.

2.0L turbo way easier than a 2.4 SRT engine swap, :faint:

Looks like a new turbo/manifold setup, where did you find it?

[cordes]

I'm with Simon, I would rather do anything over that freeze plug. Even if it were lock-tited in there I wouldn't want to run it that way. I would rather drill and tap a hole.

[contraption22]

I don't like the freeze plug idea. And I would much rather put the oil return into the pan than drill into the block.

[Sgt Craig]

I don't like the freeze plug idea. And I would much rather put the oil return into the pan than drill into the block.

i agree also. From my experience the oil pan is a much better and easier solution. The coolant you can run the the other heater hose. Works great.The feed for the oil can be taken right from the oil pressure sender,just get a T.

[inmyshadow]

If he is spending the money on a rebuild, I'd go with 2.4 for more displacement.

later

[shadow88]

Simon, right now the goals are around 200-230 hp and similar torque. The turbo/manilofd is used and from an srt-4 owner who stepped up to stage 3 for his car. The parts are in near perfect condition.

As for the frost plug, well, I thought it was brilliant, but if it leaks or fails we'll be using the other heater tube for the return. Drilling into the cooling passages seemed like an invite for disaster.

Returning to oil into the pan was shot down due to unknown axle clearance, and the need to do it all in aluminum and have it welded ($$). We'll be returning the oil above the crank centerline and we're probably building a baffle for the inside to help the oil shed back to the pan rather that hitting the connecting rod.

Sgt Craig. Why would you prefer the oil feed teed in from the sending unit instead of from the head? We considered both, but the head feed seemed simpler.

Inmyshadow. He's more interested in the higher rev potential with the 2.0L and the simplicity of it being a drop in. If he's looking for more torque, he'll just up the boost.

As always, I (we) appreciate the inputs and criticism. I will be updating this thread as more work is done and parts are installed.

[Sgt Craig]

Simon, right now the goals are around 200-230 hp and similar torque. The turbo/manilofd is used and from an srt-4 owner who stepped up to stage 3 for his car. The parts are in near perfect condition.

As for the frost plug, well, I thought it was brilliant, but if it leaks or fails we'll be using the other heater tube for the return. Drilling into the cooling passages seemed like an invite for disaster.

Returning to oil into the pan was shot down due to unknown axle clearance, and the need to do it all in aluminum and have it welded ($$). We'll be returning the oil above the crank centerline and we're probably building a baffle for the inside to help the oil shed back to the pan rather that hitting the connecting rod.

Sgt Craig. Why would you prefer the oil feed teed in from the sending unit instead of from the head? We considered both, but the head feed seemed simpler.

Inmyshadow. He's more interested in the higher rev potential with the 2.0L and the simplicity of it being a drop in. If he's looking for more torque, he'll just up the boost.

As always, I (we) appreciate the inputs and criticism. I will be updating this thread as more work is done and parts are installed.

Because the head doesnt have enough pressure to supply it. Ive worked on alot of Turbo'd Neons and it wasnt that hard to T off the oil sending unit.

[shadow88]

Thanks for the tip! ^^^ We were looking through neons.org and found most people suggested a tee from the oil pressure sending unit, but nobody specified why.

[Sgt Craig]

Thanks for the tip! ^^^ We were looking through neons.org and found most people suggested a tee from the oil pressure sending unit, but nobody specified why.


Well searching through neons.org is like searching through the cess pool of useless knowledge. While there are a few who know what they are talking about There are those that think they do and dont know jack.Youll find the ones that know usually dont post alot. Pm me your addy and ill send ya a tee I have.

[shadow88]

I sent you a PM.

I have been told that neons.org is THE place to go for that type of stuff. Thanks for the heads up, and I'll be taking that site's info with a large grain of salt from here on in.

[cordes]

I sent you a PM.

I have been told that neons.org is THE place to go for that type of stuff. Thanks for the heads up, and I'll be taking that site's info with a large grain of salt from here on in.

I have just been on there for a couple of weeks since I picked up a plane jane 97' SOHC. I have perused the forced induction section, and cringed at some of the advice I have seen handed out.

[Sgt Craig]

I sent you a PM.

I have been told that neons.org is THE place to go for that type of stuff. Thanks for the heads up, and I'll be taking that site's info with a large grain of salt from here on in.

It is you just have to know where to look and who to ask.

[inmyshadow]

Swapping a 2.4 is so simple, I'm proof positive.

My 2.4 swapped neon was the first time I put a motor back into a car. The swap was so easy, the car started on the first try.

So, if he can remove a motor, he do a 2.4 swap.

later




Inmyshadow. He's more interested in the higher rev potential with the 2.0L and the simplicity of it being a drop in. If he's looking for more torque, he'll just up the boost.

[Aries_Turbo]

james, what did you have to do to get all the proper accessories to work?

Brian

[inmyshadow]

PT Cruiser accessory brackets, underdrive pulley and a spacer for the power steering pump. Since my neon was a SOHC, I needed a DOHC power steering line.


james, what did you have to do to get all the proper accessories to work?

Brian

[dds78910]

Nice pics, they will come in handy for my swap.

[turbovanman²]

PT Cruiser accessory brackets, underdrive pulley and a spacer for the power steering pump. Since my neon was a SOHC, I needed a DOHC power steering line.

What did you use for engine management?

[inmyshadow]

I started with 24lb injectors and DOHC computer. I now have a MP computer running the car. I had to change the firing order of the coil and fuel injection. I do those changes at the coil plug and SBEC connector at the ECU.

With a 52mm TB, underdrive pulley, pacesetter header,3.0 cold air intake, flowmaster muffler and ported/polished manifold the neon put down 144whp and 144ft lbs of torque.

later



What did you use for engine management?

[turbovanman²]

I started with 24lb injectors and DOHC computer. I now have a MP computer running the car. I had to change the firing order of the coil and fuel injection. I do those changes at the coil plug and SBEC connector at the ECU.

With a 52mm TB, underdrive pulley, pacesetter header,3.0 cold air intake, flowmaster muffler and ported/polished manifold the neon put down 144whp and 144ft lbs of torque.

later

Ok, I guess you used an older DOHC block as the SRT one I installed was a royal PITA and the cam and crank sensors are different.

What turbo or are you n/a?

[inmyshadow]

For a full SRT4 swap into a 1st gen neon you have two choices.

Megasquirt or SRT4 engine harness, computer and gauge cluster. Some of the neon guys are just as crazy as us when it comes to SRT4 swaps.

My neon is N/A right now. That will change once my shadow is all set. I'm hoping the neon will be turbo by the end of this year with a low pressure setup. Something enough to get me 200whp.

later



Ok, I guess you used an older DOHC block as the SRT one I installed was a royal PITA and the cam and crank sensors are different.

What turbo or are you n/a?

[turbovanman²]

For a full SRT4 swap into a 1st gen neon you have two choices.

Megasquirt or SRT4 engine harness, computer and gauge cluster. Some of the neon guys are just as crazy as us when it comes to SRT4 swaps.

My neon is N/A right now. That will change once my shadow is all set. I'm hoping the neon will be turbo by the end of this year with a low pressure setup. Something enough to get me 200whp.

later

I did the SRT4 swap into a 1st Gen and it was a royal nightmare, :(

[shadow88]

I can't believe over a month has gone by and we're so far behind schedule :(

The engine is torn down (no pics, nothing special) and will be going out to the machine shop this upcoming week.

Picture of the oil drain relocated to the pan. Many hours tied up in this.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/pan3.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/pan2.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/pan1.jpg

As always, comments welcome.

[turbovanman²]

Very cool drain setup, :thumb:

[shadow88]

Intercooler installed. I wish Ontario didn't require a front plate :(

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/fmic.jpg

[skitzo_inc]

Looks good. I've been thinking that AFTER my neon is paid off and the Shelby is being nice to me, I want to do an SRT-4 motor/tranny/computer swap into my SXT. I know I would have to do suspension, and it would cost more than just getting one, but my insurance wouldn't go up!

[shadow88]

Engine is almost back togehter. Needs frost plugs and a pick-up tube before the manifolds go on. We used MP springs and PT lifters on an otherwise stock top-end. The pistons are forged 8.6:1 (I think) with forged rods on a stock crank.

We thought we'd work on the dress-up factor a bit. We stripped the valve cover, masking taped off an area, the letters were freehand drawn by my girl friend, then cut out and scotch taped on. Next you carefully cut out the letters but leave the tape only on the letters. Paint black multiple coats, remove lettering, and clear coat.

I think it looks pretty cool for being less than $20

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/cover2.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/cover5.jpg

It isn't really as wobbly as the picture makes it look.

[SebringLX]

Looking good! That oil return looks almost identical to what I had done for the oil return on my Sebring.

[shadow88]

Well now it's all up and running on megasquirt 2 :cheer2:

Pics

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/IMG_1712.jpg

Tight fit but there's clearance

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/IMG_1717.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/IMG_1713.jpg

Boost tubes run under the engine like the srt-4 and a big exhaust.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/IMG_1738.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/shadowt2/neon/IMG_1737.jpg

It does run and I'll have videos soon. As always, comments are welcome.

[inmyshadow]

replace your hard brake lines. Or else you are in for an unexpected treat.

I blew out the two rear hard brake lines last year at two autocrosses. My lines looked good expect where they failed. The areas that burst, looks just like yours at the firewall. Pissing brake fluid all over your turbo will create a mess.

http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/recall/RC705.htm I used that TSB to locate the needed lines and fuel lines for my neon. I also bought several of the retaining clips packages.

[shadow88]

As a dealer tech, I'm aware of the 705 recall for the neons. Thank you for your concern, and he has been made aware of your concern.

I have never seen a tube corrode to the point of leaking in that area, only near the back where that silly tube holder used to be on the early ones. Is it a heat issue with the turbo back there?

[inmyshadow]

Those brake lines on the fire wall looked just like my rears when the failed. Losing brakes is no joke. When I folded up the broken line to throw away, it snapped in several places that were rusted/rotted.

I got luck when both lines burst, I was on an autocross course. The speeds I was going, It would have been a bad accident on the street.

I recommend replacing the fuel lines since you already have to pull the tank to replace the left rear.

I'd also be worried about the heat. I'm sure the amount of heat coming off the turbo will heat up the fluid to or near its boiling point.


As a dealer tech, I'm aware of the 705 recall for the neons. Thank you for your concern, and he has been made aware of your concern.

I have never seen a tube corrode to the point of leaking in that area, only near the back where that silly tube holder used to be on the early ones. Is it a heat issue with the turbo back there?

[shadow88]

This vehicle has now been dynoed. On it's best pass of 2, after an intercooler nitrous bath (i carry a spare bottle) it put down 218 whp and 222wtq on 12-13 psi boost. We need a real boost controller, to get the boost up into the high teens, low 20's range. I should have a video soon.

[jory]

That's impressive, nice work!

[shadow88]

Thank you.

Today we just buggered together a semi-consistant boost controller for the neon. Now we're running spikes of 21 psi settling down to 18 psi. The car is really pushing you into the seat now!

But the down side is his laptop died and we can't fine tune the ignition timing so it's really retarded at high rpm's but it still pulls really hard. I like to have the laptop and drb3 with me while the owner drives to make all the fine changes on the fly, but can't. It'll get better. Track times should be coming in the next few weeks.

[cordes]

Thank you.

Today we just buggered together a semi-consistant boost controller for the neon. Now we're running spikes of 21 psi settling down to 18 psi. The car is really pushing you into the seat now!

But the down side is his laptop died and we can't fine tune the ignition timing so it's really retarded at high rpm's but it still pulls really hard. I like to have the laptop and drb3 with me while the owner drives to make all the fine changes on the fly, but can't. It'll get better. Track times should be coming in the next few weeks.

Wow, I bet that thing will really scoot on the track if you can hook at all.

[3Bar_Mopar]

A friend of mine's DOHC Neon turbo project. Car has gone 10.80's at 129 mph. Car is very very sick. Got to ride in it once too...2-step pwns.:amen:
His project log is here: http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=255537 and more pics of his engine can be seen on page 44.

[john1320]

I just skimmed though the entire thread...
all i can say is WOW!
So much talent and dedication-I also like that he's using MS3

[dunny]

I'm anxious to see some dyno numbers on the higher boost levels. I want to go back soon to get new #s as well....

What wastegate is being used?