Safc

[SwiftTech]

Now I know the SAFC is not the best choice for controlling fuel when compared to a custom cal but......how would it work on an 84 where a custom cal is not available. I know they only work to take fuel out but that is what I need as I am running +20 injectors. Any feedback is welcome:thumb:

[David Bohrer]

I have ran the AFC just for fun on my 3bar cal and it did not like it at all. The "trim" is done by modifying the MAP signal and therefore affects boost,timing and fuel. My car surged badly thru the adjusted points I had set and in general made the car worrysome to drive. Timing was all over the place and so was the boost. Not safe!

Don't get me wrong the SAFC can work but it needs to be installed with the MAP hack directions so the adjustments become LOAD based instead of RPM based. Also use a manual or electronic boost controller to keep the boost steady. The car will still surge and will in general piss you off.

The SAFC is the wrong tool to tune our cars. IMHO.

BTW: If you have a 3bar cal use the #5 settings for the GM map sensor. I have the spreadsheet somewhere for the linear comparisons of boost value versus voltage.


Dave B.

[SwiftTech]

Firts off thanks Dave for replying to my post. I appreciate your feedback and your firsthand experience with the unit. I was thinking of using the unit to smooth out the current RRR setup that is on my car. I would love to run a 3bar setup but as of now(and forever I'm sure) no one makes one for the 84 electronics. In fact mopar makes the only cal for them which I already have. It is better than the stock cal for sure but still only has tables for 10psi. After that it runs lean. I have been able to run up to about 15-16psi with +20's and the RRR setup but it has horrible drivablilty. Flat spots in the mid range, pig rich on throttle tip and so on. I have been fairly sucessful in eliminating these by playing with base fp(20-25psi), gain(12:1), and delaying when the gain starts via a grainger valve(10psi boost or so). I was just thinking the safc would be a good way to tune the cal on my 84 electronics as there is no other alternative except to swap out the wiring harness, computers, sensors, distributor and all that.

[SwiftTech]

well I'm going to give it a shot I think. I've ordered a 3 bar map sensor to make it load sensing instead of throttle sensing. And I've been doing some research into how to make it work. But if it doesn't work I'll just throw it up on Ebay or something like that and then bite the bullet and start the T2 wiring conversion.

[David Bohrer]

Just follow the HACK instructions and ad lib a bit to adapt to your car....

Keep us posted since I might able to help.

Dave B.

[8valves]

Just follow the HACK instructions and ad lib a bit to adapt to your car....

Keep us posted since I might able to help.

Dave B.

Oh jeez, here we go again! :D

Aaron Miller

[SwiftTech]

Okay David,
I got the 3 bar map sensor fo rthe throttle input taken care of. My question is what do I use for the tach input to the safc? Is the distributor reference signal a good one to use? Do I hook it up to the negative post on the coil like a tach? Thanks.
Luke

[David Bohrer]

Go directly to the coil for a clean signal.

[SwiftTech]

Hey David,
I got the unit all hooked and and the car runs with it at least. The problem is I don't know which sensor type #'s to use in the in and out positions. Got any ideas?

[contraption22]

wait... why not just upgrade to 87 electronics then use a custom cal?

[SwiftTech]

To be different! Also because i want to try to keep the stock 84 electronics for right now. I will upgrade the electronics when I upgrade the rest of the motor, tbi header, t2 intake, ford turbo. But I don't want to do all that yet. I have a goal for the car I have to hit before I upgrade. 13's, are my goal, I'm so close right now. The car could run the number with a perfect track and launch. But the drivability of my setup leaves a lot to be desired. So I was hoping to use the safc to fine tune the fuel delivery and maybe lean out the bottom end of things on my car. Thats all.

[Stinkbox]

i tried to put an afc in my daytona about a yr ago and ran into the same problem with the sensor in/out number and it never worked correctly so i got rid of it. i couldn't find any help with the in/out number but closest i got was a number for what the guys are using on neon's and srt4's from their websites. i think it was 5 in and out don't remember though. good luck

[SwiftTech]

Thanks stinkbox, I'll head over to srt land and do some research.

[SwiftTech]

Everyone over there is using 10in/10out for their srt's so thats where I'll start. Do you know what each step is equal to? 0=0v 10=5v with 0.5 steps or what?

[Stinkbox]

you gotta figure out how many bar the srt 4 map sensors are. i believe they are 2.5 bar and we use 2.0 bar so when they are at 5v they are at 22psi and we are at 14.7 or maybe thats only on one of their stage upgrades. my dad's srt runs 15 psi stock though and in our cars that would be boost cut.

[SwiftTech]

Well I think it is time for an update. I have the unit installed and running beautifully. It allows the +20's to idle like stock injectors and they still can provide aditional fuel when I turn up the boost. Right now I'm running just the stock 7-8psi and it runs great no surging or any nonsense like that.:thumb: I'm going to see if I can run the car without the RRR setup at all on it and just tune it with base fuel pressure and the SAFC.