Getting a '90 Cherokee, any experiance?

[mcsvt]

Well I'm helping some friends move and they are giving me a Cherokee for the help :) It's been sitting for months since they replaced it with a newer one. Battery was deader then dead, replaced with the one from my SL and she started right up.

It has a few issues, but nothing major...
-flat tire
-driver side key cylinder broke/missing, door still locks from the inside
-hatch missing wiper assembly thus a nice size hole
-fairly filthy inside and out

But hey free is great :) I'll get some pictures up when I get it in my possession.
Seems like it's fairly loaded, 4.0, auto, transfer-case has 2wd, part-time and full-time 4wd, 4Lo, power windows, mirrors, roof console just like my SL. Heat works!

So anybody have one of these, or deal with them often? Any issues I should look into? Seems to leak oil from every spot possible, lol.

[Clay]

I had an 89 which is basically the same thing. You have the 242 transfer case which is a good case and it means you have the high pinion, NON-disconnect (ie GOOD) dana 30 front axle.

The 4.0 is darn near bullet proof if maintained. They ONLY thing I didnt like about my XJ as the damn Bosch/Renix FI system, and you have the same thing on your 90. Harder than hades to diagnose with out the manual, then it was still a pain in the arse. (OH, and I have an electronic copy of the renix manual if you want one).

anyway, that jeep for free is SWEET!

ALso, if you need something to fill that hole in your hatch, I happen to still have a good wiper motor that will fit your jeep. If you want it, let me know. No charge!

[Clay]

oh, and as for possible problem, the cooling system is crap. (well, part of it anyway). Its a closed system, ie no rad cap, and has a plastic bottle in the right rear side rear of the engine comparment. That bottle WILL crack. when it does you will loose coolant, and eventually you will have to replace it. When that time comes, you need to just bite the bullet, get a 92+ radiator and the heater control valve. This is an open cooling system with a radiator cap and it gets rid of that stupid bottle.

Oil leaks! yup, common! Usually its the valve cover most of the time. Change it, clean everything and look some more. The cover is very common, but other things will leak. Also the vacuum/PCV system probably needs a bunch of hoses and tubing replaced (just like our cars). The best fix is just go to the dealer and get everything new for that stuff. To much plastic and funky fittings to try and cobble something together.

[clocktowersniper]

Ya and dont forget the freeze plugs rusting out and leaking! easy fix as long as the one in back of the block doesnt go as you have to pull the engine to get to it!
Other than that they are bullet proof!

[mcsvt]

Clay I may take you up on that wiper motor. I'm going to have to start searching the yards for parts it seems :)

As for the coolant system, yeah I remember when he was having issues with it way back about 6 years ago. I was told pretty much all the coolant system was replaced... The coolant bottle is definitely new. I know it used to have barely any heat and now it's pretty darn good, so I'll believe them for now :) (they really aren't car people...)

The oil leaks could be from the valve cover. Pretty much everything below it is caked in oil, lol.

Frank lets hope the back plug is ok for now :thumb:

When I first started it I had a decent tap, seems like a lifter lost it's prime, but after a few revs it was fine and the motor actually sounds great with an almost open exhaust.

Thanks for the info guys :thumb:

[Clay]

there is a freeze plug in the back of the head as well, another pain in the rear if you need to replace it. Key with the 4.0L is coolant maintenance. Keep it clean and all is well. If it gets nasty, better take care of it quick. They do run hotter than most vehicles Ive owned. My current wrangler and my old XJ run at a solid 210F all the time.

[JDAWG]

Gary i work at a jeep dealership, I could scare ya haha. I can list some common failures if you want, not really problems though. We have customers that have around 300k on them that come in for maintnence.

[turbovanman²]

Rear mains get hard and leak badly. Its a 2 piece design so you drop the pan. I think the rads are way too small hence the running hot. The newer ones run at a nice 195 with no problems and they have much larger radiators.

[devlish]

i just picked up a 91 cherokee with the 4.0L high output. paint fading, and was messy on the inside. runs good though, 4wd works. power windows/locks, etc. all work fairly good. got it for $400. i changed the plugs, oil, and one plug wire, and i'm getting about 13.5mpg so far. not good, but i'll resell it in springtime. only bought it for winter. so far so good for me!! used to shake really bad on the hiway for previous owner, had all tires remounted balanced (free) and it drives pretty good now. heater didnt blow either, found some insulation stuck in the fan. pulled it out and its ok now. overall, it's still a POS, but it'll sell for $500+ next spring, and it's safer to drive this in the winter than my IS300 i feel. at least if something happens to it anyways.

good deal on the free jeep. enjoy it, they go thru a lot i've learned in the past month!

[Clay]

IMO they dont run hot, they just run at 210. Every jeep Ive had w/ the 4.0L runs at 210 all the time. My 99 TJ, which we bought virtually new, as well as my dads 2 TJs which he did by new, all ran at 210.

[turbovanman²]

IMO they dont run hot, they just run at 210. Every jeep Ive had w/ the 4.0L runs at 210 all the time. My 99 TJ, which we bought virtually new, as well as my dads 2 TJs which he did by new, all ran at 210.

210 is hot, ;)

The 03 I just did the engine on runs at 195, :clap:

[clocktowersniper]

Oh and another thing you see is oil pressure loss. They will tap up top then knock. Usually this happens from sludge buildup in the pan and it clogs the pump pickup.

[RoadWarrior222]

For avoidance of hardened seal and sludge problems you might wanna give those "high mileage" oils a try, they seem to work relative miracles on many engines that consume and or seep a bit of oil. They can be found on sale fairly frequently, so you needn't pay "nearly synthetic" type prices. However, on motors that seem to need a quart every week or two, it does pay for itself over 3-6 months change intervals. Pennzoil one in the gold can seems the best of those I've tried so far. Valvoline in the red can... avoid unless you've got an otherwise tight motor with serious sludge problems, that one seems to clean stuff out wayyyyy too good for an old motor, you could run into the kind of probs ppl complain about with switching to a good synth. Castrol in the green can seems okay, but not quite as good as suppressing smoking in summer driving as the pennzoil. (Maybe doesn't swell valve stem seals quite as good) Valvoline stuff might "save" a 2.7 I guess.

On my 3.0 they've been keeping the worst of the worn valve seal problem in check, and minimised seepage everywhere else, it was looking a little gungy black in places through the oil cap on the valve cover before I began using them which was worrying me (too much bargain brand oil on irregular changes I guess) but they have cleared that up and it's looking just brown/yellow stained now. First few changes with that it got black really quick, but now it stays clear brown through most of the interval.

[Clay]

210 is hot, ;)

The 03 I just did the engine on runs at 195, :clap:

Im telling ya, its not hot for a 4.0L Jeep engine.

and heres a question for on the 03....... was this what you were reading on the gauge in the jeep? cause in 03 the gauges are hooked up to the computer....... not to the temp sensor. They read what the computer wants them to read. ;)

but I keep forgetting........ you live in an igloo in canada! ;) :clap:

[JDAWG]

rear main, of course put a new pan gasket on, the stupid oil filter o rings get hard and leak but $5 for those, axle joints in the front, if you need a neutral safety switch you are gonna eat that one at a couple hundred bucks, normal truck stuff like pinion seals and such, only major thing i can thing of are blown headgaskets and the manifold likes to crack. You can tell if it has the updated one if the outer tubes have the little flexy joints in them. Overall they are pretty solid. Oh look at the rear bumper brackets, they like to rust then your bumper falls off lol.

[grim]

:needpics1: and i find all the good deals ?

billy

[DeckSetter]

210 is not a problem at all. I had a '95 that ran at 210 all the time and it was great (until it started using oil and coolant, but I think it was a friday afternoon truck and that's another story). If 210 was a problem there wouldn't be THOUSANDS of those engines with 300k miles or more because every one I've ever seen runs at 210 all the time.

I've heard it said that the 4.0l could almost pass new vehicle emissions standards without a catalytic converter. Running at 210 might be part of the reason.

Also, I'm jealous of your full time transfer case. You can drive with it in full time 4x4 on dry pavement if you want, but definitely use this setting in the rain or you will NOT keep traction! My '95 was a HO, but it would spin the oversized (235 75r 15) tires from 30mph in 2wd on damp pavement, and the earlier Renix trucks had more low end torque.

[mcsvt]

So since the rear main is two pieces, I can do it without removing the trans? Interesting...

John I may be contacting you for some parts, I will be slowly making a list :)

[JDAWG]

no prob gary

[mcsvt]

:thumb: I figured you would know I'd go to you first anyway.

anyone know a good forum for the XJ's? There are so many damn Jeep forums...

[Clay]

Only three worth looking into:

www.naxja.org

www.jeepforums.com

www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums

If you go hardcore offroading, then pirate4x4.com is pretty good. Well, its just good to go visit/read by itself! ;)

[JDAWG]

i think i was on www.jeepforums.com and they were pretty cool, seemed like they leaned more torwards kj, tj, and jk though. But i only searched through a couple times

[mcsvt]

Good sites :nod:

I found a FAQ on doing the rear main seal. Seems pretty easy.

[DeckSetter]

www.jeepin.com used to have a pretty big XJ population, but I haven't checked that place out in a while (since I got rid of my HEEP)

[mcsvt]

Been doing a lot of reading lately :) Trying to figure out how to make the "renix" system perform decently... Looks like a 3.5" RE lift and some 33's will be in it's future, with the 3.5" I shouldn't need an SYE which I'd like to avoid for now.

Looks like I have to go get the Jeep tomorrow so I'm going to rent a dolly from u-haul... Anybody think a trailer would be better? The tow vehicle is a 2001 Ram 1500 Reg. Cab Short bed with a 360. It's lowered slightly and when I had my SL on a trailer the hitch was slightly lower then I'd usually desire... If I turned the hitch over it may be better, but I just haven't had a chance... Anyway, I figured since I can put the TC in neutral a dolly is plenty fine for the Jeep.

Cliffnotes: Usually a trailer person, going dolly this time, any objections?

:thumb: Pictures to come tomorrow finally :)

[Clay]

with the older XJs you can usually run a 4.5" lift with out an SYE. I did on my 89 with no issues, and lots of people do the same.

On most jeeps Ive had you can put the TC in neutral and flat tow/dolly it just fine. Never had a problem with me. Actually, if you have the owners manual, it tells you exactly what to do to flat tow/dolly it.

[mcsvt]

Thanks Clay! I'll look around for the flat tow info tonight.

And about the 4.5"... scratching chin :) I was looking at some lifts last night, I guess I'll just have to decide if ~$300 more is worth the extra inch.

[mustangsally]

:needpics1: and i find all the good deals ?

billy

+1. I'm SO jealous. I'm dying for a XJ Cherokee! Congrats :)

[Clay]

yeah, thanks GARY! now you have me looking at XJs again. 97+ this time though.

[mcsvt]

XJ's have always been my fav, just kinda lucked out on this one :)

NAXJA can't decide on the proper way to dolly an XJ, seems like it's different depending on the TC... 231's lock all 4 wheels even when in N, but the 242 (which I have) doesn't do that. Yet some say that the 242 likes to randomly explode... If I have my tools I may pull the rear driveshaft and be done with it. But then I'll have to refill the TC as I'll lose most the fluid, I'm only going 20 miles with it, I should have taken the title last week and just got the paper work done, o well :(

And so much for resting this weekend :lol:

[mcsvt]

Pictures are developed (I finally put the memory card in my computer).

The dolly worked fine, the 242 shifted into neutral and didn't complain at all. I cleaned out the interior some, drove it down the block and back and just have a few things I want to do to make it more livable. Has a scrapping sound in the rear end, possibly the drums. And the exhaust is rusted out all over. Looks like I can get new pipes pretty reasonably, so I'm going to replace it all from the manifold back ( I hope the exhaust mani isn't leaking, or leaking to much )...

Any way here are the pics :thumb:

[JDAWG]

looks damn good for free

[mcsvt]

Yeah a couple soft dents on the drivers side that will come out with a plunger and the back bumper was pushed in a bit but I was able to bend that back by hand...

Doesn't look like I'll be able to afford 3 cars on my insurance, so one may have to go :( Still deciding...

[JDAWG]

you might want to check about your 87 and state laws, you may be able to get antique tags because the Daytona is no longer made, insurance is cheaper cause of driving less miles

[mcsvt]

Yeah, it's ridiculous how much they want for 3 cars that won't see more then 7k a year total... And two of which would live in NJ in a safe town... I need to call the insurance company.

[Clay]

man you suck ;) that looks almost exactly like my old XJ when I first bought it. Only read difference is mine had the gold rims and the factory tinted windows that had a gold hue to them. Anyway, good score man!!

[mcsvt]

Clay if your still willing to part with the rear wiper motor I can send some cash your way. Just let me know :) If not it looks like there are some on ebay.

[J&G_BlueGLH]

Gary -

Let me know if you need any help.. too much to post on here, but Greg just re-did almost everything on mine. We re-did the head, did front dif work and are now doing rear work.. so if you need any help or tech suggestions, let me know and I can have Greg give you a call.. he's been working on them quite a bit lately.. 1 good thing tho.. 4.0's never die!!! Mine's got almost 196,000 on it and you'd never know.... its just in what you take care of. So let me know if you need anything... :thumb:

PS. my rear wiper motor just took a crap the other week. you cant get new ones, they only have re-mans.. looks like $70. Greg said they are known for the rear wiper motors going out..

[Clay]

Clay if your still willing to part with the rear wiper motor I can send some cash your way. Just let me know :) If not it looks like there are some on ebay.

I found it today. Ill warn you though, its just the motor and gearbox assembly. The nut and seal that go outside the jeep aren't with it. Anyway, if you want it, PM me your address and Ill drop it in the mail.