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View Full Version : How easy is it to change a 3 liter on a 93 vert?



slasky
12-29-2007, 08:35 PM
I am looking at a 93 lebaron vert with a bad engine. It has a 3.0 in it that was run out of oil. Are the v6s really crammed in there or is there enough room to work with?

RoadWarrior222
12-29-2007, 08:56 PM
Tighter than a 2.5 of course, but most of that is up top. Kinda like a DOHC really. Only really "tight" when you try to put 'em in L bodies or something.

Some stuff you might have to disconnect from underneath, reaching between firewall and K-frame but there's generally quite a bit of room that way, just have to get the right position. I use a ramp to lean back against while it's high on the stands.

They're about a 1/3 again as heavy as a 2.5 so if you have trouble manoeuvering one of those on a hoist yourself then you'll need a helper.

slasky
12-29-2007, 09:04 PM
Thanks. The owner describes the car as "mint" and it does not have any rust. So I may end up picking it up. How reliable are the 3.0s and the electronics that go with them?

JDAWG
12-29-2007, 10:25 PM
actually they are pretty decent other than the 3.0 smoke syndrome, but that should have been corrected by then.

turbovanmanČ
12-29-2007, 10:27 PM
Thanks. The owner describes the car as "mint" and it does not have any rust. So I may end up picking it up. How reliable are the 3.0s and the electronics that go with them?

Apart from the valve guide dropping thing, which should have been fixed by the factory around 92, then there very reliable.

RoadWarrior222
12-29-2007, 10:28 PM
How reliable are the 3.0s and the electronics that go with them?

How long's a piece of string? They seem to keep going and going if maintained. Ondonti's motors sometimes last 2 even 3 trips up the track! (Just kidding Brent)

Pre 91 drop valve guides if not fixed. 91 up are fixed with retainers factory installed, the seals do go on higher mileage ones. Symptoms for either is that after idling for a few minutes a stab on the gas pedal will make a cloud of blue smoke. Some debate about whether it actually always gets in the cylinders or just drips into the exhaust ports. Can be exacerbated by failure to change PCV valve and ealry valve covers tending to clog in the PCV vents and baffles. i.e. sometimes you can address that and the smoking almost dissapears. 92 up I think have a shorter piston and thinner ring package, which is perceived as maybe wearing easier, but doesn't really seem a huge problem on motors that don't have boost added. I think actually they are moly faced rings. Beware of cheap rebuilds using cheap and nasty rings. Waterpumps and timing belts are due at 100K. Listen for squeaks and impeller hitting block (rattle) on a runner. Oil pressure senders fail. Oil pumps go to high mileages and can be a problem unless rebuilt properly seems best to leave alone unless it's a definite issue. Damper/pulley occasionally chews up woodruff key slot and/or the end of the crankshaft, not known if this is a prevalent problem but it has been known to happen. If present timing mark will tend to jump about under light.

Electronics are at heart the same old SMEC/SBEC, uses MAP, CTS etc. SEFI for 92 up I think, earlier has MPFI batch in pairs, SEFI has high impedance injectors, MPFI has low impedance. Fuel pressures vary in early years. Easy upgrades are 52mm TB, timing advance, port plenum. (or use 90 up plenum on earlier motors with stock for then 52mm TB)

If you get a 92 up "runner" motor, will probably be good for many miles with just a waterpump and timing belt change and new viton valve seals before you install it, and check valve cover for sludge in PCV baffles. Check you get the right injectors swapped over if it's an earlier one, and much earlier than that you might expect valve guide issues unless it's documented that they got fixed (retainers fitted)

Hum hope that's all and is right, it's all off the top of my head. Several sites around for 3.0s, some confusion of info between them though.

Big_P
01-11-2008, 08:17 PM
I swapped 3.0's in my 95 Vert. It really wasnt any harder than replacing the 3.0 in my Caravan.

The only thing that may have been slightly more difficult was getting off the rusted exhaust manifold collector bolts. Tough to get a sawzall in there. Oxyacetaline torch made quick work of that.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to PM me.

daytonaturbo87
01-14-2008, 04:25 PM
I've never done it, but I've been told by someone who's done it that it's no harder than doing a 2.2/2.5. The 3.0's are decent motors, but when you have it out, would be a good idea to do the water pump, timing belt and for sure valve cover gaskets always leak on the 3.0's.

slasky
01-14-2008, 06:21 PM
I ended up passing on the car. In this guy's world mint means a ripped up drivers seat and rust along the bottom of the doors.

RoadWarrior222
01-14-2008, 08:46 PM
Ohhhh, mint like a lifesaver.... with a hole in the middle.

Ondonti
01-15-2008, 01:15 AM
You didnt buy the car but.

3.0's are easy to remove. Just need to take off the hood and remove the crank pulley. Get a load leveler and tip the trans side down and pulley side up a bit so you make the engine/trans combo not so wide in the engine bay.

93sundance
01-16-2008, 05:07 PM
hahahaha

just like a TM

93sundance
01-16-2008, 05:07 PM
You didnt buy the car but.

3.0's are easy to remove. Just need to take off the hood and remove the crank pulley. Get a load leveler and tip the trans side down and pulley side up a bit so you make the engine/trans combo not so wide in the engine bay.

+1

It is easy. If I can do it, anyone can.

slasky
01-16-2008, 05:11 PM
The top was in great shape, the paint was real nice except the rust bubbles along the bottom of the doors. So on the outside the car was mint except for the door bottoms.

Aries_Turbo
01-16-2008, 09:19 PM
yeah that 3.0L is cake to get in and out. i put one in a k car with ease.

Brian