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View Full Version : Weekend rebuild; what is planned:



fastasleep
11-20-2007, 09:30 PM
I have decided to take the Thanksgiving weekend and rebuild the 2.5 in the van ('90 Plymouth Voyager). I have compiled a list of parts that have been purchased and wanted to know if anything else was suggested. I will be removing the engine from the van, but don't have time to take it to the machine shop. Soooooo, here is the plan:

Yank the engine.
Disassemble.
Clean pistons, block and crank.
Use ball hone on cylinders.
Install new main bearings (Federal Mogul 6678 M std. size)--->plastiguage.
Install new rod bearings (Sealed power std. size)--->plastiguage. Use stock pistons with chromoly rings (sealed power std. size)--->check end gap.
Install new std. volume/std. pressure oil pump from Mopar.
Install pick-up with home-baffled oil pan (using knowledge center method).
Install mildly-ported head with Felpro head gasket (came with head set), using Mopar performance head studs (11mm from Summit).
Install new Mopar timing belt and tensioner.
Install ported intake and ported stock exhaust mani's.
Put Garrett turbo on from '86 Shelby Z with upgraded compressor housing.
I didn't win the auction on the braided turbo lines, but will get some soon. For now, I will use stock piping for coolant and lube.
Install + 20% injectors with adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
I plan to use the pre-existing exhaust (3" with full-flow muffler, exiting out the pass. side under the sliding door).
Home-made cold air intake.
3 bar racing MAP bleed and boost controller set to 17 psi.
Dawes device on dash, along with water temp., oil pressure, and boost pressure.
EBay intercooler/piping (front-mount).
Mopar oil filter and Rotella 15W-40 oil.
Install Mopar distributor cap, rotor button, spark plug wires and Champion RN9YC spark plugs.
Anything I missed? My goal is to make 300 fwhp with this van. I love it, so even if I fall a little short it is okay, I'll keep it! :D After I get all this done, I will do the suspension (lower it), then do a full-on street tranny. What do you guys think?

-Les

fastasleep
11-20-2007, 09:59 PM
Don't get me wrong, I don't think I will make the 300 with only 17 psi, but I need to find out where I am as far as dependability and fuel/boost/timing. When I feel comfortable with the vitals, I'll increase boost.
Also, can anyone post pics if I e-mail them? I don't know how to host (?) them.

-Les

turbovanmanČ
11-20-2007, 10:00 PM
Not a bad list, but I would replace all the coolant hoses, thermostat and waterpump, oxygen sensor with a OE unit or NTK. What are you doing for guages?

As for the head gasket, I wouldn't use the Felpro, its alot of work to change back out, just get the MP unit, ending in 005.

The Mitsu lines need some tweaking to fit the Garret and depending on age, they could be seized.

If you can get that done in one weekend, your my hero, :clap: :hail:

Also, you won't make 300 whp with that setup, especially at 17 psi. ;)

Just saw your edit, with the right turbo and tuning, you can make 300 whp, I know I'm still trying, :(

Use Photobucket to host your pics or better yet, $10 and you get a sig and you can host pics from here, :amen:

fastasleep
11-20-2007, 10:25 PM
Not a bad list, but I would replace all the coolant hoses, thermostat and waterpump, oxygen sensor with a OE unit or NTK. What are you doing for guages?

As for the head gasket, I wouldn't use the Felpro, its alot of work to change back out, just get the MP unit, ending in 005.

The Mitsu lines need some tweaking to fit the Garret and depending on age, they could be seized.

If you can get that done in one weekend, your my hero, :clap: :hail:

Also, you won't make 300 whp with that setup, especially at 17 psi. ;)

Just saw your edit, with the right turbo and tuning, you can make 300 whp, I know I'm still trying, :(


Use Photobucket to host your pics or better yet, $10 and you get a sig and you can host pics from here, :amen:
The coolant hoses are a given being that I have to relocate the radiator (just a little) so that I can place the I/C where I need it. I am also keeping A/C being that it will be a street van. Thermostat and waterpump were just replaced before I bought the van, so I'll check for function/condition and reinstall if able. O2 sensor is a good idea. I hope I can get one tomorrow when I pick up the stuff at the Mopar counter.
As for guages I have a water temp. and oil pressure. I am planning on picking up a boost/vac. pressure guage tomorrow at Summit, but would also like to get a EGT set-up, but they don't offer it in an Ultra-Lite. I may buy the look alike (sort of) Stewart Warner so that I can monitor.
I'll grab an MP005 while at the Mopar counter tomorrow.
I have the lines coming off of the Shelby. I will check for function and flow before use.
I have an HX30 that I just received. I am wondering if this may help? Also, I would need bigger injectors as well, but do you think 250 fwhp in attainable with the items mentioned?
I am a contributing member (paid $10), do I need to pay another $10 to post pics? Hell, it'd be worth it!

-Les

turbovanmanČ
11-20-2007, 10:33 PM
I have an HX30 that I just received. I am wondering if this may help? Also, I would need bigger injectors as well, but do you think 250 fwhp in attainable with the items mentioned?
I am a contributing member (paid $10), do I need to pay another $10 to post pics? Hell, it'd be worth it!

-Les

To fit an HX30 is alot of work, you need to modify the stock manifold as the Holset is a T3 flange, you'd have to fabricate a dp setup, and I'd have to dig up my old thread to see if this is a good turbo for an 8 valve setup. Usually, there too big and make for a crappy street car.

250 whp is possible with the turbo maxed out, a good tune and a big IC. I managed 236.5 whp on a small IC, slightly ported head, turbo maxed out, netted me a 14.1@95 mph best run on street tires a few years ago.

Pics, go into your use section or click the link on your sig line, and upload there. I am still fuzzy on it so if you have issues, post in the "board discussion" section.

raccoon
11-21-2007, 01:07 AM
if you do pull it off in one weekend you should do a time lap video, take a photo of the engine bay every 20mins or so.

fastasleep
11-21-2007, 05:49 AM
if you do pull it off in one weekend you should do a time lap video, take a photo of the engine bay every 20mins or so.

That'd be cool. I saw a vid of a guy doing that on a Volkswagen once. I think it was on durroco.com, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I'll take some pics, but I am not sure about time lapse. I think time will lapse quickly enough since I plan on having so much fun.

-Les

tryingbe
11-21-2007, 08:48 AM
The cleaning of parts is going to take the most time. Unless you have somebody helping you, I don't really think you will finish everything you listed in a weekend.

turbovanmanČ
11-21-2007, 01:27 PM
The cleaning of parts is going to take the most time. Unless you have somebody helping you, I don't really selling you finish everything you listed in a weekend.

Agreed, cleaning takes FOREVER, grrrrrrrrrr. :mad:

I did have access to a guy in my complex who has one of those heat/steam cleaners, sped things up big time but yeah, scraping, cleaning, painting, cleaning, cleaning, cleaning, lol! :banghead:

fastasleep
11-21-2007, 05:07 PM
Yeah, I know all about the cleaning! Not only that, but I forgot about all that has to be blasted in order to powdercoat.

-Les

bfarroo
11-21-2007, 06:23 PM
Also I think you want the P4452006 gasket as the 2.5 will be cross drilled if your planning on ordering one. The dealership here doesn't stock them but can get them in 2 days and at 20 bucks you can't beat the price. If you know how to do it making your own lines up isn't that hard if you have a place that sells the hose and fittings in your area. I'm using parker stuff on mine. Isn't the flashy steel braided but is still good to 400 degrees and 300 psi. Plus it's just a push on connector. I didn't see valve cover gasket and oilpan gaskets on your list but the one piece felpro units are the only way to go. way less messing around trying to get that 4 piece unit to not leak.

Benji

fastasleep
11-23-2007, 03:48 PM
Ordered some other parts since I was able to come into some play money today. From FWD Performance, I bought:
MP 2005 head gasket
Lower gasket set
11mm head studs
Exhaust manifold studs
Valve cover bolt kit
Intake bolts
Stainless turbo line kit
Orange oil return hose.
I also found a square yard of the heat deflector material that I used on the Miata, so I plan to wrap the turbine housing and downpipe + the starter with it.
BTW, thermostat looked good, but I still have to pick up some new radiator hoses and vac lines.
I bought a roll of the friction tape at Ace. Looks like great stuff. Gotta go, much more work to do!

-Les

turbovanmanČ
11-23-2007, 05:52 PM
Also I think you want the P4452006 gasket as the 2.5 will be cross drilled if your planning on ordering one.

Benji

Use the 005 gasket on everything. The CD's are still connected using the 005 gasket. The 006 blocks too much coolant flow.


Don't forget to drill the 1/16" hole in the thermostat. Eliminates air pockets and reduces the thermal shock.

fastasleep
11-23-2007, 10:56 PM
If you can believe it, I knew about the 1/16th hole in the thermos. I am moving slower than I had anticipated, but am ready to assemble the short block tomorrow. I still have to wait on the front seal and rear seal, though. It actually gives me more time on the pan, anyways, so no big whoop.
Damn I can't wait to get this thing back on the road!

BTW, I noticed while cleaning the pistons that the top ring land was clean as hell, even though the second ring land and oil ring land had much stuck in them. Also, the tops of the pistons had a ton of burnt oil on them and after cleaning them (down to the metal), it looked as if someone had pin-punched each one 100 times (assuming detonation). What gives with the first ring land being so clean?

-Les

gvare001
11-24-2007, 12:30 AM
Damn I can't wait to get this thing back on the road!

I know how you feel man. Just take your time and do a good job, there should be some rewarding fun times after the rebuilt.

turbovanmanČ
11-24-2007, 09:31 AM
BTW, I noticed while cleaning the pistons that the top ring land was clean as hell, even though the second ring land and oil ring land had much stuck in them. Also, the tops of the pistons had a ton of burnt oil on them and after cleaning them (down to the metal), it looked as if someone had pin-punched each one 100 times (assuming detonation). What gives with the first ring land being so clean?

-Les

Got pics?

Usually its a sign its burning oil, the oil going past the rings cleans the upper ring lands.

It probably broke a few spark plugs and the porcelin gave you the dimpled look, due to detonation, bad gas etc, ;)

fastasleep
11-24-2007, 10:44 AM
Turbovanman, there are a couple of pics in my gallery now. Take a look at that piston. It is cool to take off the balance shaft sprocket off the crank, right? It is not serving a purpose at this point, so is there a reason to keep it?

-Les

turbovanmanČ
11-24-2007, 02:59 PM
Turbovanman, there are a couple of pics in my gallery now. Take a look at that piston. It is cool to take off the balance shaft sprocket off the crank, right? It is not serving a purpose at this point, so is there a reason to keep it?

-Les


Yeah, looks like a spark plug or two let go.

As for the sprocket, you can remove it but I like to think of it as an oil slinger.

Definately use the one piece oil pan gasket that was mentioned above, I have the part number in the faq's, ;)

Have you honed the bores already? looks kinda splotchy, did you use a ball or bar type hone?

fastasleep
11-24-2007, 04:15 PM
Yes, I honed it already using a ball type hone. In the pic I had just washed and rinsed it again, so that may be what you are seeing. I had a friend of mine who does a lot of the small block stuff here come over and check. He said it was fine (okay, not perfect), but the next time I would have to bore. He checked the piston to wall clearance and said he wouldn't hone it any more; to stick with what I had. He said that if I had started with a finger hone to even the surface first, then finish it with the ball type, it may have come out better. But, just like I said, he said it would be fine. I am new at the rebuilding tasks. Being a diesel mechanic I usually re-sleeve. Anyway, thanks for the input!

-Les

turbovanmanČ
11-24-2007, 06:52 PM
Ok, sometimes pics make things look weird, :confused: :nod: