BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[black86glhs]

What about something like Reeves scatter shield but with some additional bracing from the diff cover to the shield or a 525 girdle?

[83scamp]

Aren't the 568 cases heat treated like the 555 cases were? If they are, then that presents a whole new set of issues for welding...

[shadow88]

I think I know what case would serve you best, but you don't want to hear it again....:eyebrows:

[85glht]

RWD....... Sorry, but you are destroying parts at an alarming rate.lol.
May also want to think about losing some weight in the car..... Lots of power, heavy car equates to the nice picture galley of broken stuff you posted earlier.

I know this is stuff you don't want to hear and I appologise for putting in my $.02

Looking forward to see what you come up with.

[fishcleaner]

How about vacuum bagging carbon fiber around it, an 1/8" build up should be stronger than all of the aluminum.

[Reaper1]

I have thought about wrapping a case with composite as well. Unfortunately a virgin case I think would be needed as all of the grease and oil that has wicked its way into the pores of the metal can't be gotten out...no matter how long you bake it, or how well you clean it. I suppose you could seal it with a type of adhesive/sealant first. Also, applying the material to the application correctly is paramount in netting any benefits. Remember that composites only take load along the axis of the fibers. Anything off axis and the strength starts to decrease and if you go into compression...well...composites don't do well in compression.

[BadAssPerformance]

What about something like Reeves scatter shield but with some additional bracing from the diff cover to the shield or a 525 girdle?

Already has the Reeves nut guard on it but it stops short of the diff area. A bolt-on brace might be an option.


Aren't the 568 cases heat treated like the 555 cases were? If they are, then that presents a whole new set of issues for welding...

They may be. Part of why I didn't weld to the last one but if its now 3 in a row.


I think I know what case would serve you best, but you don't want to hear it again....:eyebrows:

LOL!


RWD....... Sorry, but you are destroying parts at an alarming rate.lol.
May also want to think about losing some weight in the car..... Lots of power, heavy car equates to the nice picture galley of broken stuff you posted earlier.

I know this is stuff you don't want to hear and I appologise for putting in my $.02

Looking forward to see what you come up with.

Yeah weight loss would definitely help. Not sure I want to remove any heavy bracing being a street car tho


How about vacuum bagging carbon fiber around it, an 1/8" build up should be stronger than all of the aluminum.


I have thought about wrapping a case with composite as well. Unfortunately a virgin case I think would be needed as all of the grease and oil that has wicked its way into the pores of the metal can't be gotten out...no matter how long you bake it, or how well you clean it. I suppose you could seal it with a type of adhesive/sealant first. Also, applying the material to the application correctly is paramount in netting any benefits. Remember that composites only take load along the axis of the fibers. Anything off axis and the strength starts to decrease and if you go into compression...well...composites don't do well in compression.

Interesting ideas! Never thought about a wrap was more thinking of structure but that would certainly do it.

Might have to cut it off to service tho... hmmm Probaby leaning towards weld-on or bolt-on bracing for revision 1

[cordes]

I agree that some sort of adhesive coating followed by CF would be a good way to go. You could easily cut it off to service the diff, but it would suck as a one shot deal. If you planned your layup well you could come out with something strong in many directions pretty easily.

[83scamp]

Maybe it's time to look into something like this:

http://www.hewland.com/svga/egt.html

But I'm sure none of us want to know the price on that...:wow1:

[fishcleaner]

I have thought about wrapping a case with composite as well. Unfortunately a virgin case I think would be needed as all of the grease and oil that has wicked its way into the pores of the metal can't be gotten out...no matter how long you bake it, or how well you clean it. I suppose you could seal it with a type of adhesive/sealant first. Also, applying the material to the application correctly is paramount in netting any benefits. Remember that composites only take load along the axis of the fibers. Anything off axis and the strength starts to decrease and if you go into compression...well...composites don't do well in compression.
I would clean the case as best you could but I don't think adhesion to the case would matter that much. Doing a wet lay up with carbon fiber and vacuum bagging it into all the nooks and crannies would make it stronger. I think doing each part of the case separately, even with just strips would help, it doesn't look like it cracks where the bolts are. Even if you did "glue" the whole case together and it blew up, the case is done anyway and cutting it up would only be a time loss since the case is done.

[BadAssPerformance]

Not sure if wrapped separately it would hold the two halves together. This picture and the one comparing A555 to A568 webbing make me think it would work better if wrapped around the case, or some gussets added in between.

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[MoparStephen]

Maybe it's time to look into something like this:

http://www.hewland.com/svga/egt.html

But I'm sure none of us want to know the price on that...:wow1:
border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="100%" style="width: 100%"
|-
| valign="top" style="width: 19px" |
| valign="top" style="width: 227px" | Recommended max. engine torque:
| style="width: 457px" | 320 lb.ft
|-

I think it's safe to say JT is well above that!

[BadAssPerformance]

I think it's safe to say JT is well above that!

I think so, and that still might be better than the 175 ft-lb units I'm using LOL

[Vigo]

Well i couldnt post this on the first day because the site was messing up but:

Most obvious thing that pops out is that the area where the crack starts is a fairly thin V shape of metal:
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And the thought that follows would be to fill the V with welded metal:
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Next thing that comes to mind is putting a plate across the area that splits:
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But there's probably not room on the inside so can we get a better view of the outside?
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[c2xejk]

border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="100%" style="width: 100%"
|-
| valign="top" style="width: 19px" | | valign="top" style="width: 227px" | Recommended max. engine torque:
| style="width: 457px" | 320 lb.ft
|-


I think it's safe to say JT is well above that!


I think so, and that still might be better than the 175 ft-lb units I'm using LOL

Is that 320 ft-lbs. max peak torque or max torque that will live for 60-100K miles?

Clearly the, 523/543/568 can survive a higher than 175 ft-lbs single event....

[Vigo]

Sounds like an interesting strategy, but no pics

Fixed it! This'll be the third try getting that post to work since you originally posted up your carnage pics.. :mad:

[BadAssPerformance]

Good observations and thoughts! :thumb:

Anyone else have ideas?

[Reaper1]

The area he wants to fill is the area that has more bracing on the older cases.

What about an "L" shaped type of bracket that could connect the diff housing to the main body part of the case?

[black86glhs]

1. How about a primary cage that goes from the bell housing to the side cover with an adjustment in the middle to allow for preloading. Think a turnbuckle.
2. Half of it goes over the top of the trans and the other half under it.
3. Secondary cage goes from the primary cage back to the differential cover. Possibility of another preloading adjustment if wanted.
4. Half goes over the top and other half under it.
5. If the preload is deemed unnecessary, just bolt it together.
6. Use it in conjunction with the inner plate reinforcement next to the bearing adapter that Vigo drew.

[Ondonti]

Hmm, exoskeleton, full transmission brace that pieces together combining with a scatter shield that supports the bellhousing, preload with turnbuckles. Sounds plagerized from my posts posts a year or 2 ago towards JT. I want his case preloaded end to end too though. Don't create another weak spot. Keep all the gears fully meshed and they will live to their ultimate potential.

Told yah so JT? :D
It Is good to know that the plate is not enough. Save me heartbreak

[supercrackerbox]

At least for the hole above the carrier bearing (the one with the locating dowel) is there enough room inside and enough meat in the casting to drill it all the way through and use a stud secured by a nut on the inside? I'm just shooting out ideas; I'm not that educated on transmission internals.

[black86glhs]

Hmm, exoskeleton, full transmission brace that pieces together combining with a scatter shield that supports the bellhousing, preload with turnbuckles. Sounds plagerized from my posts posts a year or 2 ago towards JT. I want his case preloaded end to end too though. Don't create another weak spot. Keep all the gears fully meshed and they will live to their ultimate potential.

Told yah so JT? :D
It Is good to know that the plate is not enough. Save me heartbreakLOL....I can honestly say Brent that I didn't rob your idea. Apparently, we are sooooo much smarter than the other guys on here!!!:dancingbana::drum:

[BadAssPerformance]

The area he wants to fill is the area that has more bracing on the older cases.

What about an "L" shaped type of bracket that could connect the diff housing to the main body part of the case?

Yes, the concern is the webbing is insufficient when the dif is loaded and pushes away from the pinion.

So kind of like the strap that Vigo posted but with a 90° flange to the body? interesting


1. How about a primary cage that goes from the bell housing to the side cover with an adjustment in the middle to allow for preloading. Think a turnbuckle.
2. Half of it goes over the top of the trans and the other half under it.
3. Secondary cage goes from the primary cage back to the differential cover. Possibility of another preloading adjustment if wanted.
4. Half goes over the top and other half under it.
5. If the preload is deemed unnecessary, just bolt it together.
6. Use it in conjunction with the inner plate reinforcement next to the bearing adapter that Vigo drew.


Hmm, exoskeleton, full transmission brace that pieces together combining with a scatter shield that supports the bellhousing, preload with turnbuckles. Sounds plagerized from my posts posts a year or 2 ago towards JT. I want his case preloaded end to end too though. Don't create another weak spot. Keep all the gears fully meshed and they will live to their ultimate potential.

Told yah so JT? :D
It Is good to know that the plate is not enough. Save me heartbreak


LOL....I can honestly say Brent that I didn't rob your idea. Apparently, we are sooooo much smarter than the other guys on here!!!:dancingbana::drum:

I like the idea of a cage, however, I'm not sure how a cage from bell housing to end cover keeps the diff from walking out the back? this sounds like it is perpendicular to the diff expulsion force vectors?

I will post pictures of the plate when I finally get the current trans out. I predict that it did its job and the diff is the next weak link not directly related. IMO The helical gears are what pushes it out, not shaft movement.


At least for the hole above the carrier bearing (the one with the locating dowel) is there enough room inside and enough meat in the casting to drill it all the way through and use a stud secured by a nut on the inside? I'm just shooting out ideas; I'm not that educated on transmission internals.

Good idea and I was looking at that the other night. Maybe weld bosses onto the case and tap those for connecting studs?

[black86glhs]

1. How about a primary cage that goes from the bell housing to the side cover with an adjustment in the middle to allow for preloading. Think a turnbuckle.
2. Half of it goes over the top of the trans and the other half under it.
3. Secondary cage goes from the primary cage back to the differential cover. Possibility of another preloading adjustment if wanted.
4. Half goes over the top and other half under it.
5. If the preload is deemed unnecessary, just bolt it together.
6. Use it in conjunction with the inner plate reinforcement next to the bearing adapter that Vigo drew.


Yes, the concern is the webbing is insufficient when the dif is loaded and pushes away from the pinion.

So kind of like the strap that Vigo posted but with a 90° flange to the body? interesting







I like the idea of a cage, however, I'm not sure how a cage from bell housing to end cover keeps the diff from walking out the back? this sounds like it is perpendicular to the diff expulsion force vectors?

I will post pictures of the plate when I finally get the current trans out. I predict that it did its job and the diff is the next weak link not directly related. IMO The helical gears are what pushes it out, not shaft movement.



Good idea and I was looking at that the other night. Maybe weld bosses onto the case and tap those for connecting studs?See above in blue. The main cage reinforces the case while the secondary cage comes off that and goes back to the diff area to support that. We are supporting the case in both the x and y directions

[BadAssPerformance]

Got it. thinking the secondary cage is more of what is needed?

[Reaper1]

Also, by strengthening the main case you are keeping the gear mesh more in check. part of the whole failure is the gears pushing away from each other and there are multiple components to the resultant force vector. ANY reduction in ANY of those components will help. However, the caveat is that if some of the load is then forced through another component that was already near failure, well...you'll find out really fast!

It sounds like a few of us have thought about the "exoskeleton" idea. Time to bust out the chop saw and welder! ;)

[black86glhs]

Got it. thinking the secondary cage is more of what is needed?Well, my thoughts are this.....The thing works as a whole. Also, how do you know the differential area is getting pushed straight back? My guess is that it is being forced away from the rest of the case on more than one plane. It's not being forced back at a true 90* angle from the gears. Besides, the main cage is the place to anchor the secondary one. My idea makes it a multi-piece cage for easier installation and service.

[cordes]

Yes, the concern is the webbing is insufficient when the dif is loaded and pushes away from the pinion.

So kind of like the strap that Vigo posted but with a 90° flange to the body? interesting







I like the idea of a cage, however, I'm not sure how a cage from bell housing to end cover keeps the diff from walking out the back? this sounds like it is perpendicular to the diff expulsion force vectors?

I will post pictures of the plate when I finally get the current trans out. I predict that it did its job and the diff is the next weak link not directly related. IMO The helical gears are what pushes it out, not shaft movement.



Good idea and I was looking at that the other night. Maybe weld bosses onto the case and tap those for connecting studs?

I thought I read that the helical gears send 15-20 percent of the load axially? That load would be transferred straight out the diff case otherwise? I've been one to think that the helical gears are saving the diff, but eating the cases and bearing plates.

[BadAssPerformance]

Also, by strengthening the main case you are keeping the gear mesh more in check. part of the whole failure is the gears pushing away from each other and there are multiple components to the resultant force vector. ANY reduction in ANY of those components will help. However, the caveat is that if some of the load is then forced through another component that was already near failure, well...you'll find out really fast!

It sounds like a few of us have thought about the "exoskeleton" idea. Time to bust out the chop saw and welder! ;)


Well, my thoughts are this.....The thing works as a whole. Also, how do you know the differential area is getting pushed straight back? My guess is that it is being forced away from the rest of the case on more than one plane. It's not being forced back at a true 90* angle from the gears. Besides, the main cage is the place to anchor the secondary one. My idea makes it a multi-piece cage for easier installation and service.

I don't disagree that strengthening the whole case wont help, of course it will. The first time I helped MB pull the trans in her Talon the first thing I noticed was the extensive gusseting on the exterior. I guess for this issue I've been thinking of a more localized improvement than a case redesign.. Hmmm...


I thought I read that the helical gears send 15-20 percent of the load axially? That load would be transferred straight out the diff case otherwise? I've been one to think that the helical gears are saving the diff, but eating the cases and bearing plates.

Vectors. The angle of the tooth dictates the split, so 45° is close to 50%/50%.

My comment was that the helical gears put a torsional load and also a side load into the ring gear. The side load on the ring gear teeth offset by the radius of the ring puts a pretty good moment into the equation. If the gears were straight the load on the case is mainly perpendicular to the inner shafts and in line with the gussets. The helical gears' side loading adds some twisting action to the gussets.

[black86glhs]

I see what you are saying and I agree. Maybe both. Add material in the bowl above the crack area and the exoskeleton?

[wheming]

RWD and Powerglide? ? ?
;)

[MoparStephen]

RWD and Powerglide? ? ?
;)

Blasphemy. RWD is bad enough, but for crying out loud. If the car goes RWD, it damn well better be a TorqueFlite!

[wheming]

I'm a firm believer that when one decides to "stir the pot" it is better to use a boat oar than a coffee straw.

[cordes]

I don't disagree that strengthening the whole case wont help, of course it will. The first time I helped MB pull the trans in her Talon the first thing I noticed was the extensive gusseting on the exterior. I guess for this issue I've been thinking of a more localized improvement than a case redesign.. Hmmm...



Vectors. The angle of the tooth dictates the split, so 45° is close to 50%/50%.

My comment was that the helical gears put a torsional load and also a side load into the ring gear. The side load on the ring gear teeth offset by the radius of the ring puts a pretty good moment into the equation. If the gears were straight the load on the case is mainly perpendicular to the inner shafts and in line with the gussets. The helical gears' side loading adds some twisting action to the gussets.

Thanks for that explanation. I think see what you're saying there. How much force is put into the attempt at twisting the diff perpendicular to the axis of the axles? I would think that the snout of the diff would be a pretty good distance to counteract that with no problem? I could be way off as I'm like a child walking into the middle of a movie...

[Ondonti]

LOL....I can honestly say Brent that I didn't rob your idea. Apparently, we are sooooo much smarter than the other guys on here!!!:dancingbana::drum:

I really don't know why people would add all the weight of the scatter shield and not add a little extra to make it structural for the whole end of the case that seems to keep failing. I have wondered about how I kinda cheat and remove at least 1 block bracket to bell housing on some of my 3.0's (front usually) and on a high output setup, thats probably a bad idea.

BTW, how is all the shockload that transfers into the stock location rear mount playing out? I would tie scatter shield into that hardpoint instead of using the case to carry all the load.

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks for that explanation. I think see what you're saying there. How much force is put into the attempt at twisting the diff perpendicular to the axis of the axles? I would think that the snout of the diff would be a pretty good distance to counteract that with no problem? I could be way off as I'm like a child walking into the middle of a movie...

I would love to know the forces of push out. Even straight cut gears have radial forces pushing the gears apart


I really don't know why people would add all the weight of the scatter shield and not add a little extra to make it structural for the whole end of the case that seems to keep failing. I have wondered about how I kinda cheat and remove at least 1 block bracket to bell housing on some of my 3.0's (front usually) and on a high output setup, thats probably a bad idea.

BTW, how is all the shockload that transfers into the stock location rear mount playing out? I would tie scatter shield into that hardpoint instead of using the case to carry all the load.

The added scatter shield weight is appreciated by my nuts having run only prototype clutches in the car for 15 years and more than half of that without one.

Rear mount (and all mounts) are solid so nothing moves, but I too have wondered about the forces. Need to sketch of a free-body diagram... is DJ board at work this week? :eyebrows:

[BadAssPerformance]

Pulled the trans out of the Z today. Looks like some cracks in the same general area but more by the case and not in the diff area. The cracks are flush so I might try to weld them shut then gusset the crap out of it...

583795838058381583825838358384

[Reaper1]

Is the engine/tranny mounted solid? Are you still using the bobble strut bracket? Is that mount solid with no bushings?

[ohiorob]

I'm a firm believer in rubber mounts. my engine moves a good inch or so and I truly believe that it's part of the reason I never broke an axle beside being an auto. my left axle is a stock L body from NAPA that's been in the car for 17 years. another added bonus, my car dose not shake like hell at idle. on a RWD you have a few places that take up the shock. FWD is a hole new ballgame.

[Reaper1]

I'm a firm believer in rubber mounts. my engine moves a good inch or so and I truly believe that it's part of the reason I never broke an axle beside being an auto. my left axle is a stock L body from NAPA that's been in the car for 17 years. another added bonus, my car dose not shake like hell at idle. on a RWD you have a few places that take up the shock. FWD is a hole new ballgame.

You can get away with this as long as the suspension works in such a way that the angle on the joints and shaft aren't all whacky. Most people don't get that right (and it's not easy with things being that dynamic), so they find that limiting movement is the better choice for them.

There's nothing wrong with that, but as you said things start vibrating more. This brings fatigue. I'm wondering if what we are seeing is partially a fatigue stress failure as well as a strength through design failure? We are talking about aluminum.

[BadAssPerformance]

Is the engine/tranny mounted solid? Are you still using the bobble strut bracket? Is that mount solid with no bushings?

Yes, solid using stock mounting points that were originally designed for rubber. Have been thinking about a motor plate like Warren Stramer uses


I'm a firm believer in rubber mounts. my engine moves a good inch or so and I truly believe that it's part of the reason I never broke an axle beside being an auto. my left axle is a stock L body from NAPA that's been in the car for 17 years. another added bonus, my car dose not shake like hell at idle. on a RWD you have a few places that take up the shock. FWD is a hole new ballgame.

I'm sure the rubber damps it some. I'm guessing the automatic pre-loading everything is the biggest help. You are right about needing some place to take up shock and right now its really only the clutch and axles. Twin disk clutch not so forgiving LOL

[black86glhs]

Yes, solid using stock mounting points that were originally designed for rubber. Have been thinking about a motor plate like Warren Stramer uses



I'm sure the rubber damps it some. I'm guessing the automatic pre-loading everything is the biggest help. You are right about needing some place to take up shock and right now its really only the clutch and axles. Twin disk clutch not so forgiving LOL
After reading this, I started thinking about moving the rear bobble strut attachment points from the diff to the bellhousing attachment points if possible?

[BadAssPerformance]

After reading this, I started thinking about moving the rear bobble strut attachment points from the diff to the bellhousing attachment points if possible?

I didn't get that far, need to draw free body diagram to figure out vectors / direction of forces.

In other news, upon disassembly, this case is cracked almost all the way thru so gonna use a different Trans.

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[MoparStephen]

Damn! Sorry about all the trans trouble you're having. I hope to see you at the Nats again this year.

[BadAssPerformance]

Damn! Sorry about all the trans trouble you're having. I hope to see you at the Nats again this year.

Yep, not always fun, but that's racing.

Will definitely be at the Nats in one shape or another

[turboshad]

Looking at your pics earlier I was wondering if the stress riser is at the base of the threaded hole for the selector bolt. The ones you just posted suggest this even more. Do you have an old broken case you could cut up to see how thin it gets there?

As for the bobble strut it would be a good idea to move. It only adds stress into the case that doesn't need to be there. I would try to build something off the bolts that hold the tranny/engine reinforcement plate at the back of the engine. I have hard time believing it will solve your failure issue as I don't think it has anything to do with it but it will remove some stress.

[BadAssPerformance]

Interesting, I think the latest crack is taking the shortest distance thru that section. I have some old cases, just need some sawzall action...

Played origami tonight... think cardboard covered with JB Weld is strong enough? ;)

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[black86glhs]

I wonder if it is adding to it DJ. When the engine rotates backward, the bobble strut bracket is transferring the force in a counter clockwise rotational direction. That part of the case would see those forces, plus the typical gears pushing apart, the ring & pinion trying to side step each other and finally the "way over stock" HP & torque he sends through it. Add that this area is less reinforced than the 555 and my feeble understanding of force vectors, it looks like all added up are causing the issue. If one or more can be lessened and reinforcement added, maybe it will live longer.
Then again.......LOL.

[turboshad]

The backwards rotation should put that area into compression. Compression doesn't generally produce fatigue cracking but as you said it does still remove stress that doesn't need to be there. Without doing some FEA on the part it's hard to say anything for sure.

[Reaper1]

Without doing some FEA on the part it's hard to say anything for sure.

You better get to work then! ;) :thumb:

[turboshad]

You better get to work then! ;) :thumb:

If someone models the case I can do some FEA. I have too many of my own things to pull it all off. ;)

That being said, there are some good free tools that anyone can use to get things done.

https://www.onshape.com/

https://www.simscale.com/

[black86glhs]

The backwards rotation should put that area into compression. Compression doesn't generally produce fatigue cracking but as you said it does still remove stress that doesn't need to be there. Without doing some FEA on the part it's hard to say anything for sure.True and I had forgotten that area would be, however, could that added compression plus the flexing in that area be the cause? It is seeing way more force than stock.

[BadAssPerformance]

Practiced welding on a previous case... I'll post a pic later. Let's just say a LOT of stuff creeped out and it was very difficult to get the puddle to stick to anything even filler rod.

I need a better way to clean, maybe bake in oven (thanks for the idea DJ) but until I figure out the more clean and get more practice and more time.... I'm going to throw this one together without added bracing and launch like grandma again this year...

[MoparStephen]

Practiced welding on a previous case... I'll post a pic later. Let's just say a LOT of stuff creeped out and it was very difficult to get the puddle to stick to anything even filler rod.

I need a better way to clean, maybe bake in oven (thanks for the idea DJ) but until I figure out the more clean and get more practice and more time.... I'm going to throw this one together without added bracing and launch like grandma again this year...
I know the case I tried to weld turned out like absolute junk. Too embarrassed to post any pics. My dad thinks if we were to get the case hot tanked, it would weld up better. I will use my busted in two piece case to practice on, with the hopes I can still salvage the other case which just had minor cracks around the upper mounting flange.

[shmedley]

Practiced welding on a previous case... I'll post a pic later. Let's just say a LOT of stuff creeped out and it was very difficult to get the puddle to stick to anything even filler rod.

I need a better way to clean, maybe bake in oven (thanks for the idea DJ) but until I figure out the more clean and get more practice and more time.... I'm going to throw this one together without added bracing and launch like grandma again this year...

Last I checked I have about 20 gallons of aluminum cleaner/brightener at my place your welcome to as much as you need

[BadAssPerformance]

Last I checked I have about 20 gallons of aluminum cleaner/brightener at my place your welcome to as much as you need

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

Some pics of practice welding. It really did not want to take it with many adjustments to the settings. Crap just kept coming out of the pores
5850058501

So, I guess I'll be nice as possible to this one. Some pics of the intended bracing which never happened
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And some pics of the new bullet, ready for action.. I hope
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[jonnymopar]

Ha! Love the serial number tag! At first I thought it was just a tag that you had made, but a closer look reveals it's the (or an) original.

[MoparStephen]

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

Some pics of practice welding. It really did not want to take it with many adjustments to the settings. Crap just kept coming out of the pores
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58500&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58501&stc=1


Were you using MIG or TIG? On my cracked case I tried to TIG it, but it was really pulling crap out of the pores. I have a MIG with a mini-spool for aluminum work, which I would like to try next, but I'm sure the results will be the same.

[contraption22]

My fingers are crossed for you, JT. Without jinxing you, it seems like your engine is rock-steady reliable. I'm really hoping to see your drivetrain hold what the engine can deliver.

[BadAssPerformance]

Ha! Love the serial number tag! At first I thought it was just a tag that you had made, but a closer look reveals it's the (or an) original.

That's actually the tag from the last trans a few pages back from about a year ago. Was easier to transfer than to make another, LOL. But for archival reasons I did take a picture of this trans' tag :)


Were you using MIG or TIG? On my cracked case I tried to TIG it, but it was really pulling crap out of the pores. I have a MIG with a mini-spool for aluminum work, which I would like to try next, but I'm sure the results will be the same.

Miller Syncrowave 200 TIG. I think it needs to be cooked to clean it out, but might try Shmedley's stuff mentioned above first just to see.


My fingers are crossed for you, JT. Without jinxing you, it seems like your engine is rock-steady reliable. I'm really hoping to see your drivetrain hold what the engine can deliver.

Thanks Mike, I hope it's not a jinx either, LOL! Honestly due to traction I haven't really turned it up yet, still around 29psi, so that probably helps too. I *hope* I can grandma it into living a season like last one did thru SDAC, Mopar Nats, Drag Week and a couple more track days in between. Thinking back, last trip out last fall, I did try the 2-step on lower boost launch and that alone might be the culprit.

[contraption22]

That's actually the tag from the last trans a few pages back from about a year ago. Was easier to transfer than to make another, LOL. But for archival reasons I did take a picture of this trans' tag :)



Miller Syncrowave 200 TIG. I think it needs to be cooked to clean it out, but might try Shmedley's stuff mentioned above first just to see.



Thanks Mike, I hope it's not a jinx either, LOL! Honestly due to traction I haven't really turned it up yet, still around 29psi, so that probably helps too. I *hope* I can grandma it into living a season like last one did thru SDAC, Mopar Nats, Drag Week and a couple more track days in between. Thinking back, last trip out last fall, I did try the 2-step on lower boost launch and that alone might be the culprit.

Why do you think the 2 step with lower boost would cause it? Dead hook?

[BadAssPerformance]

Why do you think the 2 step with lower boost would cause it? Dead hook?

The impact of the hit from the 2-step and even on low-boost the 2-step builds boost at the line. No 2-step 0 boost launch and more clutch slippage

[85glht]

Traction, power and a heavy car is the reason you are murdering these transmissions.... Not being negative here, been following this thread and hope you find a solution! Good luck.

[BadAssPerformance]

Traction, power and a heavy car is the reason you are murdering these transmissions.... Not being negative here, been following this thread and hope you find a solution! Good luck.

You are correct! And Thanks! me too!

[Ondonti]

Have access to a dynasty 350? Try High cleaning amps but short clean time,

[BadAssPerformance]

I wish! My Syncrowave 250 (1993 vintage) has a clean/penetration setting plus arc control and I tried many iterations. it was just too dirty... next step baking I think

[MoparStephen]

I wish! My Syncrowave 250 (1993 vintage) has a clean/penetration setting plus arc control and I tried many iterations. it was just too dirty... next step baking I think
I was using a very old but mint Econotig 150A. My dad bought it when I graduated HS in 93 :) I managed to digitize the instructional VHS that came with it, if anyone is interested. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ou9LwwnJhnI

[Ondonti]

I wish! My Syncrowave 250 (1993 vintage) has a clean/penetration setting plus arc control and I tried many iterations. it was just too dirty... next step baking I think

Htp221 also has independent amp control. Seen some good welds directly onto corroded intake manifold flanges with basically just a little stainless rotor wire brush and clean.

[karlak]

Htp221 also has independent amp control. Seen some good welds directly onto corroded intake manifold flanges with basically basically just basically just a basically just a little rotor wire brush and clean.

Basically what he said.

[turboshad]

Some good tips in here near the end.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-plasma-welding-and-fab/tig-welding-cast-aluminum-177733/

[BadAssPerformance]

good stuff!

[BadAssPerformance]

Wow, been a busy past 2 years since last post...

Since last post, the trans that went in in 2016 lasted thru SDAC-26, Mopar Nats, HRDW 2016, SDAC-27, Mopar Nats, HRDW 2017, SDAC-28 and various other track outings and driving whenever I had a chance... only opened once early 2017 to change the pads and look for 3rd gear issues. Other than that it has been fine. It was in the car until last weekend. Taking it out the exterior of the case looks OK, no visible cracks. I think the key to this is on 24.5" tires combined with no 2-step and soooooooooooft launches.

So why did it come out? Well, the latest badass trans is going in... some interesting revisions... update and pics coming soon :)

[Shadow]

Sounds Interesting...….

"No 24.5" tires"? So what are you launching on these days? 22-23's?

[MoparStephen]

Wow, been a busy past 2 years since last post...

Since last post, the trans that went in in 2016 lasted thru SDAC-26, Mopar Nats, HRDW 2016, SDAC-27, Mopar Nats, HRDW 2017, SDAC-28 and various other track outings and driving whenever I had a chance... only opened once early 2017 to change the pads and look for 3rd gear issues. Other than that it has been fine. It was in the car until last weekend. Taking it out the exterior of the case looks OK, no visible cracks. I think the key to this is no 24.5" tires combined with no 2-step and soooooooooooft launches.

So why did it come out? Well, the latest badass trans is going in... some interesting revisions... update and pics coming soon :)

Cool. Are you attending the Mopar Nats this year? Diane & I will be there. I'll be in my truck though, the Daytona is up in the air still :( At least we'll have air conditioning on the drive down.

[contraption22]

Did I see you went to GLD this past weekend? How'd you do?

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

So why did it come out? Well, the latest badass trans is going in... some interesting revisions... update and pics coming soon :)

subscribed

[BadAssPerformance]

Sounds Interesting...….

"No 24.5" tires"? So what are you launching on these days? 22-23's?

LOL I kant type or speel! I meant "on 24.5" ties" and dyslexia prevailed... edited my post. Been 24.5" for a while and without the 2-step the cases seem to have held together.


Cool. Are you attending the Mopar Nats this year? Diane & I will be there. I'll be in my truck though, the Daytona is up in the air still :( At least we'll have air conditioning on the drive down.

Yes, the plan is to be there with the Z as long as it goes back together again and runs *fingers crossed*


Did I see you went to GLD this past weekend? How'd you do?

Car ran OK, taking it easy on new trans and trying to set the low boost lower, went 11.13@ 131mph on 20-21psi. Last pass, driver error combined with easy shifting trans... 1-2-1 shift luckily I got it out of first quickly but the engine was over 10k (memory tach only goes to 10k) and it was knocking after the run. After messaging DJ who had that happen on the last pass he made in his Shadow, turns out the knocking was from the flywheel getting knocked loose or broke or clutch broke, its not all the way apart yet. new clutch on the way

No time for full update yet but here is a sneak peek of new gearset I gut from Brad Parent (Junior92) and he got faceplated at Liberty's :D I hope its OK :( Plan is to test it out to see if its worth making more.

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[contraption22]

Glad to hear it's just a clutch!

Are your 24.5's Mickeys or M&H's?

[turboshad]

Sucks on the 1-2-1 but it will be interesting if all your flywheel bolts are loose too. I still don't really know how that happened from an instant climb in RPM.

Now that you're faceplated it's time for a sequential addition to make sure you never do it again. ;)

[Reaper1]

SON OF A....#@$%@#$%

Well, I'm glad someone finally got this done to one of our trannies! I've been wanting to do it for a long time, but no vendors seemed interested (dunno how Liberty was persuaded, honestly), so I was going to try to do it myself whenever I got the equipment.

How much did that cost? Indications they are willing to reproduce it?

[BadAssPerformance]

Glad to hear it's just a clutch!

Are your 24.5's Mickeys or M&H's?

Hope it’s only the clutch...


Sucks on the 1-2-1 but it will be interesting if all your flywheel bolts are loose too. I still don't really know how that happened from an instant climb in RPM.

Now that you're faceplated it's time for a sequential addition to make sure you never do it again. ;)

I’m guessing there is some crazy shear “jerk” and that plus RPM and vibration shakes them loose?

I will run whatever you want to send me LOL


SON OF A....#@$%@#$%

Well, I'm glad someone finally got this done to one of our trannies! I've been wanting to do it for a long time, but no vendors seemed interested (dunno how Liberty was persuaded, honestly), so I was going to try to do it myself whenever I got the equipment.

How much did that cost? Indications they are willing to reproduce it?

Gears and trans parts were made a while ago for Brad, I just picked it up this year. How was Liberty persuaded? Lots of cash LOL! They went about it a little bit differently than I would have and made modifications to the case. I think there might be a better way where are you could use different slider design and not have to modify the case or add in different stops. The way this one was done you’d have to send your trans to them or make templates off mine.

Yes they are willing to reproduce it if this thing lives in my car will try to set up a group buy start saving now lol

[ohiorob]

well good luck with everything hope it all works out for you.

[turboshad]

I will run whatever you want to send me LOL


Well I was about 90% done the one for the 568 so now to find a machinist interested in TD parts.......hmmmmmmm :confused2:

https://i.imgur.com/PlsbiaD.png

[lengel]

For some reason I feel this may have been directed at me! Haha!

It's funny because the first thing I said in a text after he told me about the misshap was.

"Maybe time to pay DJ to engineer us a sequential shifter!!😉 I think he had one kind of designed before he decided to go rwd. I could help out with the machining."

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Ondonti]

Well I was about 90% done the one for the 568 so now to find a machinist interested in TD parts.......hmmmmmmm :confused2:

https://i.imgur.com/PlsbiaD.png

Thought I had seen a little video you had made of it functioning.
-----------------------

Not terribly happy about their method of creation, especially since JT had a sickness for killing cases. Would be nice to drop in parts and go.

I did tell JT and Lengel I don't even care if they like it, I am already IN.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Sucks on the 1-2-1 but it will be interesting if all your flywheel bolts are loose too. I still don't really know how that happened from an instant climb in RPM.

Now that you're faceplated it's time for a sequential addition to make sure you never do it again. ;)

Kevin (DodgeZ) did this once in his SRT, except went from 5th to 2nd ;) What happened on it is the holes in the flexplate egged out (modular clutch). Ended up replacing it with a non-modular clutch kit.

Assuming JT's isn't modular, I would definitely replace the flywheel bolts.

[c2xejk]

For some reason I feel this may have been directed at me! Haha!

It's funny because the first thing I said in a text after he told me about the misshap was.

"Maybe time to pay DJ to engineer us a sequential shifter!! I think he had one kind of designed before he decided to go rwd. I could help out with the machining."

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I was wondering about this very thing!!

[jonnymopar]

https://i.imgur.com/PlsbiaD.png

Geez that makes the ol' dangly bits tingle. Nice work!

[turboshad]

Thought I had seen a little video you had made of it functioning.


It was early on but this was it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdnKGIQaRZU

[jonnymopar]

Awesome! I was confused at first, looking for reverse because I'm so used to the 520/555 configuration.

So the linkage would just consist of an arm that attaches to the dowel sticking out the side (facing us in the screenshot)?

[turboshad]

Awesome! I was confused at first, looking for reverse because I'm so used to the 520/555 configuration.

So the linkage would just consist of an arm that attaches to the dowel sticking out the side (facing us in the screenshot)?

Yes. The idea was to use stock cables with the cross over possibly being used as a reverse lockout but I hadn't got that far before crossing to the dark side. I'm not sure if it would be needed or not if a neutral position was put between 1st and reverse. The other side would have accommodations for a sensor to output a resistance/gear position.

[BadAssPerformance]

Been a looong week and a half since the "1st gear episode".

Sunday 7/29 after I got home from the track, diagnosed flywheel was loose.
Monday 7/30 order new clutch (same as before ACT twin disk) and disassemble trans in car - internals looked OK except the 1st gear blocks had corners rolled over. (Liberty's said it was OK as long as no cracks)
Wed-Thurs 8/1-2 out of town for work

Friday 8/3 new clutch arrived and after work took trans case out of car. All week I had gone back and forth on which trans goes back in and I decided to put the face plated trans back in to test it at the Mopar Nats the following (this) weekend. Until I took the trans out and saw the bellhousing side was wet - WTF! I brake cleaned the area and let it set overnight with bell housing down and some trans oil on the inside of case. Also took the clutch and flywheel out (bolts were all loose, must have hit hard as the threads were imprinted in the sides of the holes! some clutch material came off disks too and some weird material from crank deposited on flywheel not sure if that was from 1st gear episode or previous to that?)

Saturday morning went out and saw the bell housing was wet and see a small crack that looks like where the oil was coming from, right on the edge of the front bearing housing - damnit! this may or may not have happened during the 1st gear incident. this case was one of the worst I have ever seen with voids in bolt holes and visible laminarly layered areas that appeared to be aluminum in the die from a previous shot that ended up on this case. I ONLY used this case because it was already set up for the liberty gears and some machining and stops were put in. So, plan B, to put the trans that just came out back in after going through it. It had been thru 2016 and 2017 and was missing 3rd gear since HRDW 2017 and reminded me of that racing at SDAC-28 this year. The rest of Saturday was spend working this trans over including grabbing the 1-4 speed gears (and other parts) from the previous trans (the one the T850 diff came out of to put into the face-plate trans) and get it ready for assembly. New clutch went in (different bolts) , trans case with diff went in then built the rest of the trans in the car.

Sunday finished installing rest of stuff, changed engine oil (some debris came out, maybe the motor rattled an shook something loose? Also too the STS out and put in the old shifter (89 factory bend handle shorty) After getting it all together ran a compression test to see if any issues. looked OK across board. Then started it up and noticed the speedometer was moving and more than viscous shear - Hmmm... WTF... wait a minute, I put the 3-4 slider in backwards so it was in reverse :( So sunday nigh late, I took the trans back apart in the car and with was back together by 1:30am

Monday Fired it up and ran it for a bit and seemed OK but then started looking into why the #2 plug looked lean. Swapped in new plugs, even with cleaned injectors it was doing the same. Injectors had similar Ohm reading so thought they should Be OK. Swapped injector 1 and 2 and lean stayed at 1. checked power wire, all around 12.5V. Then checked signal (ground) wires from injector plug to computer, similar 0.5 ohm. Checked with noid light and all seemed to get some signal but was only cranking. Closed garage around 1:30am

Tuesday (yesterday) tried noid light again while cranking and saw it looked like they were all firing but then when running there was a noticeable difference when you touch each injector 1 and 2 softer than 3 and 4 (bank to bank system) So tried to tighten up terminals in injector plug, swapped in a different injector sub-harness, Checked connector terminal at computer plug looked OK. Peeled open harness from injector harness plug to firewall and also one spot harness touches under dash and no problems found. Checked harness side of injector sub-harness and couple terminals seemed looser so tightened those up. re-checked some stuff and wanted to test it but it was 1:30 so went to bed

Wednesday (today) I had to work all day so I could wrap things up and take the next couple days off to go to Mopar Nats. Soon as I got home I fired it up and it seemed to idle a little smoother and let it warn up some and checked the plugs. they all looked similar so must have been one of the connectors on the #2 signal wire... I hope. ALSO hope no damage from the 1st gear incident :/ Car is ready to load onto trailer tomorrow morning to head to Columbus. On a positive note, pulling the car out of garage to wash it (as far as I've driven it) the shifting felt great.



well good luck with everything hope it all works out for you.

Thanks Rob, I hope it does too!


Well I was about 90% done the one for the 568 so now to find a machinist interested in TD parts.......hmmmmmmm :confused2:

https://i.imgur.com/PlsbiaD.png


For some reason I feel this may have been directed at me! Haha!

It's funny because the first thing I said in a text after he told me about the misshap was.

"Maybe time to pay DJ to engineer us a sequential shifter!!😉 I think he had one kind of designed before he decided to go rwd. I could help out with the machining."

I might be in for this! I'm OK with an H-pattern just need lock-outs working. I think the challenge with liberty sliders is no detents to find home so 2 easily flies right to 1st


Thought I had seen a little video you had made of it functioning.
-----------------------

Not terribly happy about their method of creation, especially since JT had a sickness for killing cases. Would be nice to drop in parts and go.

I did tell JT and Lengel I don't even care if they like it, I am already IN.

LOL, I like it and think it could work, just want to test it some more on track and street


Kevin (DodgeZ) did this once in his SRT, except went from 5th to 2nd ;) What happened on it is the holes in the flexplate egged out (modular clutch). Ended up replacing it with a non-modular clutch kit.

Assuming JT's isn't modular, I would definitely replace the flywheel bolts.

With as hard as the bolts dented the flywheel holes I'm not sure I would even want to use that flywheel...

[Force Fed Mopar]

With as hard as the bolts dented the flywheel holes I'm not sure I would even want to use that flywheel...

The kit we replaced it with came with a new solid flywheel and all.

[BadAssPerformance]

The kit we replaced it with came with a new solid flywheel and all.

Cool!

[BadAssPerformance]

Time for an overdue update on the #badassperformance #shelbyz which will come in multiple update posts... So with the goal of building the baddestass A568, earlier this year I picked up an A568 with a one-off set of faceplated 1-4 and custom sliders. I finally got a chance to assemble it in late July. In addition to the speed gears, modified case and input shaft, I swapped ring and pinion, Lengel modded T850 diff and chrome moly bearing plate and welded on a couple gussets too. This case had several issues of voids and delamination and probably the worst I had seen, however being modified with shift stops for the modded gears I decided to give it a try. More to come...

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[BadAssPerformance]

Episode 2 of the overdue update on the #badassperformance #shelbyz ... after installing the new race trans, went to #greatlakesdragaway #moparfest to make some test hits. First pass was easy to make sure the car got down the track with the new badass trans. The second pass on low boost (~20psi) went very well. This was the first time I ever WOT shifted 2nd gear in this car and banged 3 and 4 in line. I wasn’t racing the other guy just took my time launching. Unfortunately lit the tire in 1st then ran great, 11.13@131mph More to come...

Video link (2 options same video):
https://www.facebook.com/JaaayTeee/videos/10209963146354542/

https://www.facebook.com/JaaayTeee/videos/10209963146354542/

[BadAssPerformance]

Episode 3 of the overdue update on the #badassperformance #shelbyz ... after the good baseline low boost run with the new badass trans, went back up for another test hit. Similar launch low boost (~20psi), lit the tire, nailed 2nd at WOT, switched to high boost (~28psi), it pulled hard, went for 3rd... and got 1st! Crap! Luckily immediately realized what happened and re-clutched and got it out. Scanned gauges, oil pressure good, temp ok, car ran and drove but rattled, guessing the clutch took the hit and it did, the flywheel was loose! Thanks to Keith Dale for the video from the stands. More to come...

In-Car Video link (2 options same video):
https://www.facebook.com/JaaayTeee/videos/10209963481922931/

https://www.facebook.com/JaaayTeee/videos/10209963481922931/

Stands view Video link (2 options same video):
https://www.facebook.com/JaaayTeee/videos/10209963482082935/

https://www.facebook.com/JaaayTeee/videos/10209963482082935/

[BadAssPerformance]

Episode IV “A New Hope” of the overdue update on the #badassperformance #shelbyz ... checking out the carnage to find out why the flywheel was loose... Engine oil looked ok, engine rotated easy. Trans, the 1st gear plate lugs were damaged, but gears not cracked. Case had a crack in bell housing, more likely from worlds worst casting than 1st gear episode. Clutch disks were hammered pretty good and flywheel was knocked loose, check out the bolt thread imprint in bores of flywheel bolt holes. At this time the thrash began to get it together to race the following weekend at the #moparnationals
Got a new #actclutch and flywheel, and bolts. Went thru the previous badass A568 that shifted poorly at #hrdw2017 and #sdac28 swapping in 1-4 gears and best combination of sliders and syncros from trans that the diff came out of for face plate trans. Changed engine oil. Swapped in stock shifter. Also had injectors cleaned and troubleshot injector #2 not getting good signal. When all together it ran smooth and shifted nicer than it had in quite while. Was excited to get it back out to race it in a couple days at #moparnats More to come...

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[BadAssPerformance]

Episode 5 of the overdue update on the #badassperformance #shelbyz ... arrived to the #moparnationals and had a good feeling, driving the car around it ran and felt great. Friday morning first call for “stick” class and went to staging lanes. Decided to leave soft, granny shift and run low boost. 4500rpm, feathered clutch and bogged off the line. Ran great in 2nd and 3rd then after shifting to 4th it quickly developed a vibration and KaBOOM! Then silence. I shut off fuel while quickly braking and pulling over out of the groove. Got out and it was pouring water out from hole in radiator and looked across and saw hole where #4 came out. Fuuuuuuuuu. Guess the 1st gear incident must have hurt that rod. That’s racing. Had a good long run with this engine. Now to diagnose the rest and plan what’s next... to add insult to injury, Mother Nature decided to dump on us too. More to come...

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[Warren Stramer]

Well that really sucks! sorry to see that happen, takes all the fun out if it. :(Glad you didn't crash on your engine liquids.

[85glht]

Oh my... that sucks! :(

[Wastelands Warrior]

That blows!

[BadAssPerformance]

Well that really sucks! sorry to see that happen, takes all the fun out if it. :(Glad you didn't crash on your engine liquids.


Oh my... that sucks! :(


That blows!

Thanks guys, it sucks, but unfortunately comes as part of racing and now truly am learning why the 1-2-1 is referred to as the "money shift"

Yes Warren, you are 100% correct, it could have been MUCH worse at over 100mph on fluids! Luckily the only fluid put down was water (with water wetter) out of the radiator after rod/block shrapnel punctured it.

That engine had a good long run with tons of passes so not upset just will miss such a solid runner.

As an update, I called FM to see how long to build another 2.4L like this one or if same rods & pistons were available. Apparently he doesn't stock the long aluminum rods and corresponding JE pistons and was looking at a few weeks for pistons and 2 months for the Al rods.... However, he just happened to have a built SRT-4 long block that another customer backed out of... so it will hopefully ship out tomorrow. not out of Drag Week just yet...

[wheming]

Well, that sounds like a bit of good news!

[contraption22]

Is the new motor going to have aluminum or steel rods?

[BadAssPerformance]

Well, that sounds like a bit of good news!

yes it is, hope it arrives tomorrow


Is the new motor going to have aluminum or steel rods?

aluminum... that's what it already had in it so a timing thing and FWIW they are stronger... they just didn't like the moneyshift

[wheming]

yes it is, hope it arrives tomorrow



aluminum... that's what it already had in it so a timing thing and FWIW they are stronger... they just didn't like the moneyshiftYou know, a a413 sure cuts down on the chances of a moneyshift...
Just sayin'

[BadAssPerformance]

You know, a a413 sure cuts down on the chances of a moneyshift...
Just sayin'

LOL, I hear ya... just hard of hearing :D

[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L bullet arrived from Forward Motion Wednesday night and began disassembly on Thursday night. This is a swap from the #poweredbybreeze 2.4L NA to the #SRT4 #neon #Turbo 2.4L so some modifications will need to be made. Time to continue the swap and modify parts as needed. Thanks to Marybeth for the fun “1st day” sign LOL!

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[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz old #poweredbybreeze 2.4L NA carnage pics. Found most of #4 rod in the pan. In addition to the block and rotating assembly and punctured radiator, the death toll rises with a cracked oil pan and damper. FML...
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[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 bullet re-timed cams with gauge and adjustable sprockets added. Bottom end ready for power! Old #poweredbybreeze engine pulled. Good news is head might be OK! mmmmm #ramennoodles
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[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine landed in the #srtz. Luckily same mounts as old #poweredbybreeze 2.4L engine. Clearance the block for the starter, mount clutch and modify oil pan for return bung (why do people paint aluminum?) are a couple of the items that took longer than anticipated. Oie, feeling the time crunch. mmmmm #frozentamales
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[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine swap update. Was very hot and humid day today but still made some progress. Mounted exhaust side after putting a little #tigglue on a couple cracks in header. Modified my old home made #poweredbybreeze 2.4L intake manifold to fit the newer #srt #turbo head. Finished assembling rest of engine mounts and completed some misc stuff including welding a cracked throttle bracket. Speaking of cracks, noticed the old engine cylinder 2 has a decent crack in it. Hmmmm. Brunch was a tasty bagel with cream cheese and beef slices and one good meal this weekend, dinner #bangkokbelly #mixed vegetables with chicken - extra spicy mmmmm
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[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine swap update. Tonight the new #atidamper came in and installed it. Always a bit nerve racking hand drilling into the crankshaft to pin it in place while aligning the trigger wheel, luckily #fueledbynachos .... last night forgot to update but re-installed #aeromotive pump controller after getting back from getting checked out among some other smaller items with a cream cheese beef jalapeño sandwich...more to come *fingers crossed* for #hrdw2018
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[Shadow]

why do people paint aluminum?


To stop it from corroding in humid conditions. (like over winter cold storage) ;)


Trick is you gotta have the right paint or it will look like Poop!


BTW, Coming along nicely my friend!!!!! :nod::clap::thumb:

[BadAssPerformance]

To stop it from corroding in humid conditions. (like over winter cold storage) ;)

Trick is you gotta have the right paint or it will look like Poop!

BTW, Coming along nicely my friend!!!!! :nod::clap::thumb:

I suppose that's a fair reason. I guess I'd prefer a thin layer of rust preventative instead tho :)

Thanks! been givin it for a while now trying to get it to DW again!

[BadAssPerformance]

Update from Saturday Sept 1
#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine swap update. During the week slow progress with other obligations, replace wheel bearings and rotor on #driftkota (new rotors came with race installed and one spun in casting!) etc. So parts came in and amped it up tail end of week. New #fluidyne radiator came in on time and made mounts and drain using #millerwelders added then mounted up. New Turbo oil supply lines made. Cleaned and some new fittings on oil filter/distribution housing. Repaired cracks in alternator bracket and heat shield. ...more to come *fingers crossed* for #hrdw2018
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[BadAssPerformance]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine swap update. Walk around pics result of a productive Saturday have it 95% only a week later after going in ...more to come *fingers crossed* for #hrdw2018
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[BadAssPerformance]

Update from Sunday Sept 2
#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine swap update.
Got the Z running this morning then fixed a leak (drain remove test radiator... is that a radiator fan or intercooler fan? 😉 ), set fuel pump controller, set idle, set base timing (was only off a degree!), changed start-up oil and just drove around 10.5 miles. Seems to run OK... exhaust says it could use a tune... if it's not raining tomorrow morning going to head to #greatlakesdragaway first thing for some tuning and test hits ...more to come *fingers crossed* for #hrdw2018
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[BadAssPerformance]

Update from Monday Sep 3rd
#badassperformance #shelbyz update.
Last night put the gym shoes on to go to #greatlakesdragaway for some tuning then this morning called the track to confirm they were open and headed that way. Unfortunately, #mothernature wasn’t having it and drenched the area. Took the car home and then headed back out to pick up the #dragweek #battlewagon to start prep on it. Put the radials back on the car for some street miles and adjusted the VE table to idle a little better. Capped the evening off by bolting the hitch on the Z to get ready for some #ballsoutracing ...more to come *fingers crossed* for #hrdw2018
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[85glht]

Good luck at Drag Week!

[LynX853]

#badassperformance #shelbyz new 2.4L #srt4 engine landed in the #srtz. Luckily same mounts as old #poweredbybreeze 2.4L engine. Clearance the block for the starter, mount clutch and modify oil pan for return bung (why do people paint aluminum?) are a couple of the items that took longer than anticipated. Oie, feeling the time crunch. mmmmm #frozentamales
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JT,

How did clearances for the starter go? What starter did you use? Part numbers? Advice?

[BadAssPerformance]

It was 25 years ago today, January 26, 1994, that this redheaded temptress entered my life. At that time, I was just excited to get my first Chrysler Turbo II powered car and had no idea that this 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z would be the catalyst that would generate such a passion for the Shelby Dodge and Turbo Mopar vehicles. Through these badass little cars, I’ve met so many awesome people and made some good friends along the way. Although I have a few of these cars now, this one keeps me coming back for more. I have learned so much with modifications, engine and trans swaps, carnage, fabrication, more carnage, rinse, repeat, etc. Even a bit painful at times, the result is a feeling of accomplishment firing it up and tons of fun driving it and participating at SDAC, DragWeek and as many other events as I can. It’s hard to put so much history in so few of pictures, but here are some highlights of the different build combinations and many tracks, events, and even a couple of the fun locations it’s been to, Chrysler Tech Center CTC and the Dodge Mansion too! It’s been a long road and I look forward to more years to come.

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[Warren Stramer]

Great pics! Take good care of my favorite turbo Z.....You guys really represent us well!

[cordes]

Congratulations JT. That's a long time. Glad to see that you still have a fire burning for the car, and the club.

[BadAssPerformance]

Great pics! Take good care of my favorite turbo Z.....You guys really represent us well!

Thanks Warren, that means a lot to hear that we dig each other's g-bodys, I only hope one day this one is as nice as yours! :) Hope to see you at SDAC-29 this year


Congratulations JT. That's a long time. Glad to see that you still have a fire burning for the car, and the club.

Thanks Cordes, yeah it's hard sometimes, with so many other projects that don't get touched this one gets all the attention, LOL!

[Shadow]

Way to Represent JT!!!! :clap:

Running with you guys at Drag Week is still on my bucket list!!!! :)

[Warren Stramer]

Jeesz JT, How many sets of wheels do have for the Z anyway?

[Wastelands Warrior]

JTs car is just BAD ---!!!

[BadAssPerformance]

Way to Represent JT!!!! :clap:

Running with you guys at Drag Week is still on my bucket list!!!! :)

Thanks Rob, and c'mon out, the more the merrier!


Jeesz JT, How many sets of wheels do have for the Z anyway?

LOL, keep in mind this was over 25 years! But since you asked, here are approximate combos over time

Street tires
- original crabs 1994-2007
- SRT-4 wheels 2007-2017
- ASA wheels 2017-current

Slicks & Skinnies
-20x8x14 MT - steel 1996-1997
-22x8x15 MT - Crabs 1998-2000
-24.5x8.5x15 M&H - Prime 5-spokes and Centerline AutoDrag skinnies 2000-2001
-24.5x8.5x15 M&H - Bogarts 2001-current

...the SRT4 wheels are on my POSRT4 daily driver now LOL


JTs car is just BAD ---!!!

LOL thanks!

[contraption22]

Happy Anniversary, JT. Lots of history there.

[BadAssPerformance]

Happy Anniversary, JT. Lots of history there.

Thanks, hoping to continue the fun for years to come

[BadAssPerformance]

Couple runs from last day of DW

Run 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_fO9M6kymI

Run 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxvZVsL4KGE

[chromguy]

Looks great, JT

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks, still a work in progress LoL

[BadAssPerformance]

MUCH overdue update... been updating BadAssPerformance Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/badassperformance/) and BadAssPerformance Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/badassperformance) more frequently than here but realize I need to update this thread in parallel.. so here's to catching up!

New PB from last fall - 10.47@139.38mph, need to compare this run to previous 10.48 from previous engine.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B6bLulTnqlf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Timeslips from past few years
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBr1HawnOdE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

2020 first warm-up
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCkc0HYHPOH/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

“social distancing” 10.80@136.67mph at Great Lakes Dragaway July 25, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6CqjsJvJHA

Upgraded face-plated gear A568 build-up and install with fresh twin disks
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_wI3M8HUCa/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEQoAIpHTyQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEYNgnmHDiE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEno1ApHx5U/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CExtKTsHAvy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEyEgU1HfxU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

First test hits on the new "crash box"

“social distancing” 10.85@135mph @ Great Lakes Dragaway - Labor Day 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44gQgcPF1L0

“social distancing” 10.92@136mph @ Great Lakes Dragaway - Labor Day 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lvsirOZ_7s

New O2 for AEM gauge
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFOVqMKnPo4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Checking cam timing
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFWMarinhwx/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

...more test hits on the new "crash box" .. starting to get the hang of it

“social distancing” 10.55@139mph @ Great Lakes Dragaway - September 20, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yp22JfDHBuw

[BadAssPerformance]

It was 30 years ago today, January 26, 1994, that this redheaded temptress entered my life. At that time, I was just excited to get my first Turbo II powered car and had no idea that this 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z would be the catalyst that would generate such a passion for the Shelby Dodge and Turbo Mopar vehicles. Through these badass little cars, I’ve met so many awesome people and made some good friends along the way. Although I have a few of these cars now, this one keeps me coming back for more. I have learned so much with modifications, engine and trans swaps, carnage, fabrication, more carnage, rinse, repeat, etc. Even a bit painful at times, the result is a feeling of accomplishment firing it up and tons of fun driving it and participating at SDAC conventions, Hot Rod Drag Week and as many other events as I can. It’s hard to put so much history in so few of pictures, but here are some highlights of the different build combinations and a few of the many tracks (IRP, RT66, GLD, Milan, National Trail, Byron, US41, Edgewater, Gateway, Norwalk, US131, TriState, Memphis, MasonDixon, Topeka, Maple Grove, Muncie, Beech Bend, Atlanta, Darlington, Charlotte, Bristol, Virginia, Cecil, Atco, MIR), events (SDAC, Drag Week, Mopar Nats, Monster Mopar, MoParty, GLD Mopar Fest, etc. etc.), and even a couple of the fun locations it’s been to, Chrysler Tech Center and the Dodge Mansion too! It’s been a long road and I look forward to more years to come.

While I plan to get back to updating this build thread, for the latest updates/pictures/videos follow Badass Performance on IG, FB and YouTube

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[chromguy]

AWESOME:amen:

[Warren Stramer]

Wow, you and that redhead have seen some $hit and done some stuff! Hope you keep going another 20 years.
Hope to get together again some day.

[jpcturbo]

Congrats JT on keeping her going for 30 years and I look forward to what you have in store for the next 20!

[cordes]

Congrats, JT. that's awesome.

[BadAssPerformance]

Wow, you and that redhead have seen some $hit and done some stuff! Hope you keep going another 20 years.
Hope to get together again some day.

LoL yes we have! Hmmm maybe SDAC-33, weekend after father's day in June... location TBC but as close as we typically get to ND ;)


Congrats JT on keeping her going for 30 years and I look forward to what you have in store for the next 20!


Congrats, JT. that's awesome.

Thanks guys! and yes, hoping for 20 more!