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Ondonti
05-18-2012, 06:19 AM
3000gt's do not have a flat surface on the flywheel and not everyone grinds them correctly. Pretty sure ours are quite boring.

I would definitely say that ceramic does not like heat. If it slips hard and melts it turns into some sort of hardened garbage that will never work again. Organic will slip a little and not lose its effectiveness. I don't think that Viper's story is complete. If it was slipping in the first place then the combo was not adequate. Ceramic just self destructed as it always does. I would bet somebody already hurt that clutch before it went on the dyno. Seen someone else's clutch puke out black dust on the dyno when boost hit only to find out that it was already garbage when he got there and not something to brag about. People seem to think their clutch will hold on the dyno when its slipping on the street. Who here has ever had a ceramic clutch that slipped from overpowering ever behave the same again? :yuck: I remember one clutch I had where it held fine until that moment it slipped and it couldn't hold any sort of load after that.
Other materials also seem to grab harder when hot, just not cerametallic. I still want carbon.

For me the worst thing for engagement has been aluminum flywheels made by fidanza. :yuck:.

BadAssPerformance
05-18-2012, 07:07 PM
Guys, I hope you realized I was joking about my comment,

Yep :thumb:


I would definitely say that ceramic does not like heat. If it slips hard and melts it turns into some sort of hardened garbage that will never work again. Organic will slip a little and not lose its effectiveness. I don't think that Viper's story is complete. If it was slipping in the first place then the combo was not adequate.

For me the worst thing for engagement has been aluminum flywheels made by fidanza. :yuck:.

Years ago, Tommy had a Fidanza in his charger for a couple passes and didn't like it so swapped in a stocker at the track LOL

The Viper story is as complete as it was told to me... I was told it when I was asking about switching from full face organic to a puck clutch. The puck has the theoretical less area / higher force, but also less material to dissipate heat, so maybe it just couldnt take the heat? or was under rated? Or not broken in properly, who knows...

Another observation... The clutch in my T2 Shadow right now was a one off "more than 40% over stock plate with 4-puck" prototype from Clutchnet. Started in the Z in 2004 (2.2L) around the block break in, by the 5th and 6th passes it was slipping.. took it out and put the second ACT 2.2L prototype went in (the first was in the Shadow) The Clutchnet proto disk looked OK but the flywheel and plate were chewed up a tad. It went into the Shadow (think i did cut the flywheel, cant remember) and has been in there ever since with tons of 5k+ RMP launches on slicks, average 1.84 60'. Last time I inspected it the disk looked fine, the flywheel and plate were grooved. This has been the common thing I have found with th epuck clutches regardless of break in proceedure.

black86glhs
05-18-2012, 07:16 PM
It's Story time here at T-M.:nod:

turbovanman²
05-18-2012, 07:25 PM
Shadow makes sense, its like new brake pads, with either new or used rotors, it takes a few cycles to get the heat into the pad and to transfer material to the rotor so they bite and work better, like piston rings, :eyebrows:

BadAssPerformance
05-18-2012, 07:29 PM
It's Story time here at T-M.:nod:

LOL... here's a clutch story... friend (CobraT93) and I went to Winners Circle (local speed shop) for something and took 87 CSX #252 (bone stock except CSX Stage II LM) and on the way back, the clutch failed, while driving at a steady 45mph... WTF!? So it would not engage or disengage, pedal did nothing. open road ended and came to a stoplight, shut it off. Light turns green, put it in 1st, started it with the starter, clutchless shifted 2, 3, 4... worked great. Did this throu a few more intersections, and just when we thought we were gonna make it back to his place, again, steady 45mph, it just gave up and had nothing... OK, just coasted to a spot to pull off, I had AAA so call a tow. Called AAA up, they're like where ya at? I looked up an the sign said "Denmark II Adult Book Store" LOL! For soem reason the tow truck driver knew exactly where it was at and was there quicker than any other tow I've called AAA for ;)

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 PM ----------


Shadow makes sense, its like new brake pads, with either new or used rotors, it takes a few cycles to get the heat into the pad and to transfer material to the rotor so they bite and work better, like piston rings, :eyebrows:

Transfer material to the rotor?

Reaper1
05-18-2012, 08:35 PM
Yes. Brake pads transfer material to the rotor. This is partially how you get a higher coefficient of friction.

BadAssPerformance
05-18-2012, 08:41 PM
On the molecular level tho, right? The ACT plate that came out of the car had visuble clutch pad chunks on it... I've never seen that before

black86glhs
05-18-2012, 10:59 PM
Really bad pad transfer is similar to what your clutch looked like JT. You don't notice it like on a rotor. You "might" notice the clutch chatters or slips but it obviously isn't going to be like the brakes. Especially since the brakes have the fluid/mechanical connection that the clutch doesn't.

BadAssPerformance
05-19-2012, 01:17 AM
I think the material transfer to the rotor is the part that is confusing... if the material were transfered, and retained, then rotors and flywheels would never exhibit wear, in fact they would get thicker... so to wrap my mind around this, I'm guessing this it the typical situation? .... The pad(clutch) material is transfered to the rotor(flywheel/plate) when braking(engaging the clutch) however in an ideal situation, only a minute amount of material is actually retained and most of the transfered material is disipated as brake(clutch) dust...

black86glhs
05-19-2012, 01:50 AM
I think the material transfer to the rotor is the part that is confusing... if the material were transfered, and retained, then rotors and flywheels would never exhibit wear, in fact they would get thicker... so to wrap my mind around this, I'm guessing this it the typical situation? .... The pad(clutch) material is transfered to the rotor(flywheel/plate) when braking(engaging the clutch) however in an ideal situation, only a minute amount of material is actually retained and most of the transfered material is disipated as brake(clutch) dust...Yes, only a very thin layer is transfered. You couldn't measure it without expensive tools....lol.

BadAssPerformance
05-19-2012, 10:24 AM
Right... so it goes back to the "quick" or "500 mile" procedures, whitle either one will transfer material, they do it in different ways.

I've never heard of anyone driving 500 miles before using their brakes ;)

bakes
05-19-2012, 11:52 AM
When i use to work on a 911 race team on the 1st practice day of the year we would brunish all the new rotors (mulitple sets)with there matching brake pads take them off and put them all back in the box wathing for race day you could see the pads beding into the rotors . if you put them on unburished it would take alot of laps before they got up to full braking.

Ondonti
05-20-2012, 07:12 PM
Clutch should not be producing any heat on the dyno unless its slipping. I can understand the need to transfer heat when you are going through the engagement process but that doesn't happen on the dyno unless you are doing something silly like a 1/4 mile run on the dyno.

BadAssPerformance
05-28-2012, 01:09 AM
Re-bolted up the exhaust (forgot to after clutch install)
Installed a different TPS (think the one in it was flaky)
Drained out the winter glycol-mix and replaced with water/water-wetter
Drained the 100 and topped off with fresh 110

Took a couple trips around the hood... clutch is VERY grabby in reverse, not as much in forward gears... squeeks a little on engagement but is very quick to do so. Lighter flywheel/clutch definitely revs faster.. they were gentle drives (as to not PO the neighbors) so only time it made boost or left tracks was pulling back into the driveway, LOL...

Gotta fit the new slicks on it and go for another drive...

Reeves
05-28-2012, 01:24 PM
Re-bolted up the exhaust (forgot to after clutch install)
Installed a different TPS (think the one in it was flaky)
Drained out the winter glycol-mix and replaced with water/water-wetter
Drained the 100 and topped off with fresh 110

Took a couple trips around the hood... clutch is VERY grabby in reverse, not as much in forward gears... squeeks a little on engagement but is very quick to do so. Lighter flywheel/clutch definitely revs faster.. they were gentle drives (as to not PO the neighbors) so only time it made boost or left tracks was pulling back into the driveway, LOL...

Gotta fit the new slicks on it and go for another drive...

39852

BadAssPerformance
05-28-2012, 01:41 PM
New slicks bolted up...

black86glhs
05-28-2012, 05:42 PM
New slicks bolted up...Well?????

---------- Post added at 05:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:42 PM ----------

How about now?

---------- Post added at 05:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:42 PM ----------

Or now?

turbovanman²
05-28-2012, 07:41 PM
Or now?

BadAssPerformance
05-29-2012, 01:08 PM
Drove around the hood with the slicks, scuffed then nibbles off them... stopped and talked with a neighbor and drove home, left it running got out, and it died, starte dup and dies w/o throttle... looking at laptop and the voltage was low, WTF!? NO, the alt belt didnt come off again, LOL, I found a loose ground wire to the alt. hope thats it... didn't test again cuz got busy making a littl emore room for the 26" slicks...

22shelby
05-29-2012, 03:41 PM
hmmm hopefully you just shook the ground loose...

turboshad
05-29-2012, 04:07 PM
What slicks did you go with? MT, M&H, Hoosier?

BadAssPerformance
05-29-2012, 08:23 PM
M&H's

BadAssPerformance
05-30-2012, 12:35 AM
39868

Shadow
05-30-2012, 12:14 PM
Wow, looks like lots of room in the pic! Looks like way more room than the Charger, but I'm guessing the shape of the lower region of the WW is where it's tight? The Charger opens up down there while the G body comes straight down.

I would expect your 330' to improve significantly from the twin disc and 26's. I'm gonna say at least 2 tenths off your previous best 330' from the improved 1-2 shift and traction alone once you have it dialed in ;)

Reeves
05-30-2012, 12:22 PM
39868

Wow looks nice! Wish I had the room for 26's without major fender mods :(

turboshad
05-30-2012, 01:57 PM
I hope you're allowing p-body test fits at SDAC. :thumb:

BadAssPerformance
05-30-2012, 02:03 PM
Yeah, the lower half of the WW goes straight down and almost tucks around the tire. You can see in the pic the extra triangle (south of the black molding) I took out of the front GFX last year to try Josh's 26's and after that, the tire still rubbed the plastic splash sheild at the back so I'm making more room there now... I hate body work, LOL

Reeves
05-30-2012, 02:09 PM
I hate body work, LOL

I'm with ya there....

16valvecharger
05-30-2012, 03:16 PM
Yeah, the lower half of the WW goes straight down and almost tucks around the tire. You can see in the pic the extra triangle (south of the black molding) I took out of the front GFX last year to try Josh's 26's and after that, the tire still rubbed the plastic splash sheild at the back so I'm making more room there now... I hate body work, LOL

I did that to the charger years ago. I cut portions of the fender and Gfx to fit goodyear 26x8x15 . Now they fit with absolutly no rubbing.

SebringLX
05-30-2012, 03:24 PM
I might just have to swing by on my way back home after landing in O'Hare to get my slicks from you since you got your own now. If not, it is looking like I should be able to make the July meet.

turbovanman²
05-30-2012, 03:36 PM
Wow looks nice! Wish I had the room for 26's without major fender mods :(

Get a van, they fit with no mods, :p

Shadow
05-30-2012, 07:36 PM
Yeah, the lower half of the WW goes straight down and almost tucks around the tire. You can see in the pic the extra triangle (south of the black molding) I took out of the front GFX last year to try Josh's 26's and after that, the tire still rubbed the plastic splash sheild at the back so I'm making more room there now... I hate body work, LOL

Looks like lots of room in front, are you running the newer style A-arms that are 1/4" further forward?

BadAssPerformance
05-31-2012, 01:30 PM
I did that to the charger years ago. I cut portions of the fender and Gfx to fit goodyear 26x8x15 . Now they fit with absolutly no rubbing.

Got pics of the neccesary mods?


I might just have to swing by on my way back home after landing in O'Hare to get my slicks from you since you got your own now. If not, it is looking like I should be able to make the July meet.

I'm close to o'hare, that could work, when do you come in? They've been all bagged up since last fall. Much appreaciate the loan and lets call it a "rental" and I'll make a finacial contributin to youre trans fund so you can hopefully use them again this year. :)


Looks like lots of room in front, are you running the newer style A-arms that are 1/4" further forward?

I converted to the 89 dual pivot k-member/LCA's when I put the coil overs on last August. I think the wheel center is close to where it was with the original 87 stub-strut setup. I thought the later (91+?) cast arms and spindles moved it further than a 1/4"?

SebringLX
05-31-2012, 02:01 PM
I'm close to o'hare, that could work, when do you come in? They've been all bagged up since last fall. Much appreaciate the loan and lets call it a "rental" and I'll make a finacial contributin to youre trans fund so you can hopefully use them again this year. :)


Coming home from Fresno CA on June 7th at 2:23 PM
Coming home from Dallas TX on June 15th at 10:32 PM
Coming home from Redmond WA on June 24th at 5:40 AM
Coming home from Naples FL on June 27th at 8 PM

BadAssPerformance
05-31-2012, 06:28 PM
Damn dude, lotsa travelling for a guy who works from home!

The 7th or 15th might work... let me know when it gets closer.

Shadow
06-01-2012, 10:30 AM
I converted to the 89 dual pivot k-member/LCA's when I put the coil overs on last August. I think the wheel center is close to where it was with the original 87 stub-strut setup. I thought the later (91+?) cast arms and spindles moved it further than a 1/4"?

Pretty sure it was right around 1/4", DJ would prob know better, but when I installed his A-arms last year I had him make the spacers so I could move the arms 1/4" back and it seemed to be the same as my stamped A-arms for BJ location.

Reaper1
06-01-2012, 12:41 PM
The stamped arms work fine on 84-90 with no noticable wheel placement difference. The cast arms will move the wheels forward about 1/4" on those cars.

BadAssPerformance
06-01-2012, 01:57 PM
Gotcha.... they seemed to not have moved much

BadAssPerformance
06-09-2012, 10:41 AM
Finally got the Z out for some shake down runs this year... Went to a TnT at Grove on the eve of an import weekend, lots of quick cars out. Thanks to DSC, 22shelby, tommy and Shmedley coming out to crew! :thumb:

OK, changes since the last time out...

-Different set of DSS L5 Axles swapped in
-ACT HD/6-puck solid replaced with ACT Twin Disk
-Reeves Racing Scatter Shield installed
-Castrol GTX 10w40 instead of 5w30
-New M&H 26x8.5's mounted up by VntEs :thumb:
-Fresh alignment @ Tuffy's Glendale Heights by CobraT93 & TurboRon25 :thumb:

Run #1 - Right off the trailer, cold tires @ 11.5psi, light burnout, No 2-step, spin in 1st then start to hook, spin and then hook in 2, NO SHAKE!, granny shifted, short shifted 3 and 4, no cut out! felt decent for first pass of the year:)

R/T: 0.814
60': 1.762
330': 4.910
1/8ET: 7.305
1/8mph: 105.55
1000'ET: 9.317
1/4ET: 11.026
1/4mph: 132.84

Run #2 - Dropped tire pressure back down to 12 after run, light burnout, No 2-step, 5k launch and BOGGED! then spin when boost hit, then spin/hooked in 2, granny shifted, NO SHAKE!, granny shifted, no cut out again

R/T: .382
60': 1.801
330': 4.914
1/8ET: 7.289
1/8mph: 106.13
1000'ET: 9.266
1/4ET: 10.936
1/4mph: 135.60

Run #3 - Maintained tire pressure, light burnout, tried 2-step, spin thru 1, granny shifted, NO SHAKE, no cut out

R/T: .225
60': 1.787
330': 4.783
1/8ET: 7.117
1/8mph: 107.57
1000'ET: 9.097
1/4ET: 10.782
1/4mph: 134.34

Run #4 - Maintained tire pressure, tires were cold again so medium burnout, 2-step, spin in 1, granny shifted, NO SHAKE, cut out in 4th! :(

R/T: .236
60': 1.842
330': 4.865
1/8ET: 7.189
1/8mph: 108.10
1000'ET: 9.164
1/4ET: 10.865
1/4mph: 133.09

Comments...

Clutch felt good, seemed to hold well - thinking old shake in 3 & 4 was poss clutch slip like Pat guessed, thanks!

Nuts felt VERY comfortable - Thanks Reeves! :thumb:

No tire shake out of hole or in 2 - different cuz of M&H's or wasn't as low in pressure as we were with Sebring LX's M/T's

Alignment was good, went very straight (Thanks Tuffys!) need to check tire wear and video/pics

I think the cut-out was better due to going back to 10w40 from 5w30 as the oil is not getting to the cam sensor as quick... need to try to seal that damn sensor from oil, might try a little RTV

Always a good night to drive it on the trailer, LOL! :thumb: Always a good time at the track hanging out with friends :thumb: Next track trip will be at SDAC-22 :thumb:

Rampage16V
06-09-2012, 11:34 AM
39868

Wow great pic...for some reason things look a little strange to me.......been staring at mine the other way too long I guess :0)

---------- Post added at 11:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------

Sweet runs JT!

Reeves
06-09-2012, 01:23 PM
Wow! Awesome first time out!!!! Congrats!!!!

bakes
06-09-2012, 01:34 PM
Jt are you going to try more heat and less pressure in the tires for more data ? I'm interested to see if the tires have more grip in them yet to come.

BadAssPerformance
06-09-2012, 02:17 PM
Thanks guys, still some bugs to work out!

Yeah, gotta play with pressure and temp... Gotta play with suspesnion still too... the stiff suspesnion does limit (almost eliminate) lift, but it also makes the slicks "bounce" on the run as most of the suspension is now sidewall flex

SebringLX
06-09-2012, 03:41 PM
Stop doing burnouts like a little girl. :P

BadAssPerformance
06-09-2012, 04:17 PM
LOL... not all of us do John Force like you :hail:

turbo2point2
06-09-2012, 11:46 PM
Great runs JT. Get that 60' down and she'll be cooking! See you @ sdac!

cordes
06-10-2012, 12:19 AM
Nice runs JT. Thanks for the update.

BadAssPerformance
06-10-2012, 10:15 AM
Thanks Brian (times 2!) can't wait to run it again at SDAC! :thumb:

black86glhs
06-10-2012, 01:02 PM
Excellent work. 10.5 in the near future??!!:nod:

22shelby
06-10-2012, 02:18 PM
^^ the car has already gone 10.58 :D id say shoot for the 40s if not 30s... the car has it in her ;)

BadAssPerformance
06-10-2012, 03:33 PM
Yeah, still need to figure our the 60' like Slowe said... that and the suspension.. still spinning a lot in 2nd

turbovanman²
06-10-2012, 06:24 PM
Damn, your flying, nice runs, :nod:

I see 9's in the future, :thumb:

black86glhs
06-10-2012, 08:35 PM
Baby steps. lol

BadAssPerformance
06-11-2012, 12:15 AM
Damn, your flying, nice runs, :nod:

I see 9's in the future, :thumb:

Thanks.

Yeah, future, maybe not soon tho, LOL

turbovanman²
06-11-2012, 01:16 AM
Baby steps. lol


Screw baby steps, go big or go home, :thumb:

Reaper1
06-11-2012, 12:24 PM
You mean go big and go home broke? ;)

turbovanman²
06-11-2012, 01:06 PM
You mean go big and go home broke? ;)

Sure, that too, :p

dodgeshadowchik
06-11-2012, 01:32 PM
Soon enough he'll catch up with this guy and his 8-sec runs:
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/95talongirl/devin.jpg

:)

Just gotta get that suspension/tires working! The Talon is cheating with the extra 2 drive wheels. ;)

moparman76_69
06-11-2012, 06:14 PM
Just gotta get that suspension/tires working! The Talon is cheating with the extra 2 drive wheels. ;)

There is a way to level that playing field.

BadFastGTC
06-11-2012, 07:54 PM
JT,
What compound are the slicks? Fantastic shakedown passes!

BadAssPerformance
06-11-2012, 08:48 PM
Just gotta get that suspension/tires working! The Talon is cheating with the extra 2 drive wheels. ;)

...and it's been a tad lightened... and is the shop car, or is that spelled $hop car? ;) Don;t get me wrong, Devin's Talon is BadAss, but a full race car is a tough comparison :p


JT,
What compound are the slicks? Fantastic shakedown passes!

Thanks! I thought that size only came in HB-11? Either way, thats what John (Mr. M&H) recommends for FWD to reduce shake

8valves
06-11-2012, 09:08 PM
...and it's been a tad lightened... and is the shop car, or is that spelled $hop car? ;) Don;t get me wrong, Devin's Talon is BadAss, but a full race car is a tough comparison :p


HAHA! Yeah, a tad lightened indeed!

Great stuff JT. Nice to see the swap to 16V is shining through now! Care to share what boost you're at these days?

dodgeshadowchik
06-11-2012, 09:14 PM
...and it's been a tad lightened... and is the shop car, or is that spelled $hop car? ;) Don;t get me wrong, Devin's Talon is BadAss, but a full race car is a tough comparison :p



Thanks! I thought that size only came in HB-11? Either way, thats what John (Mr. M&H) recommends for FWD to reduce shake

It's a street car. ;)

8valves
06-11-2012, 09:22 PM
It's a street car. ;)

Yeah, so is Lee's silver GTS ;)

BadAssPerformance
06-11-2012, 10:36 PM
HAHA! Yeah, a tad lightened indeed!

Great stuff JT. Nice to see the swap to 16V is shining through now! Care to share what boost you're at these days?

Thanks, yeah, hoping to figure out traction this year so I can finish tuning it, LOL! The highest boost I saw on Friday's runs was 28psi and that was only at the top of 3rd and 4th. Running the TiAL and a Grainger, not the best control but thats the least of my worries rigth now, LOL


It's a street car. ;)

The Talon? No headlights sounds dangerous on the street!


Yeah, so is Lee's silver GTS ;)

I :love: that Viper!

Ondonti
06-12-2012, 07:06 AM
What is your feeling about the engagement on launch? How well can you control the violence of that moment?

BadFastGTC
06-12-2012, 09:11 AM
JT,
Marvin told me years ago the HB11 needed one burnout where the tire just begins to haze & smoke, then just dry hop them to clean them off following the initial burnout. He went on to say you can do a big burnout each pass and all it will do is increase tire sales for him. Cliff Sebring told me the same thing. I proved to myself also. Just a little food for thought.

BadAssPerformance
06-12-2012, 01:20 PM
Interesting... did he say what temp worked?

With the 26's on the first run they spun a little then hooked in 2nd, almost like they needed more heat and got that in 1 and first part of 2?

I didnt burn them too much, more to get temp into them and bring the tire pressure back up. The 24.5's i would run them at 11psi hot, so before the first run I would put them to 9.5 or 10 and then after the run adjust, and after the 2nd or 3rd run they would stabilize at 11psi.

turboshad
06-12-2012, 03:04 PM
How long between runs?

BadAssPerformance
06-12-2012, 08:01 PM
6:05pm
7:06pm
9:07pm
10:25pm

about an hour? Air temp went down a bit too

Ondonti
06-13-2012, 05:17 AM
Seems like a lot of tire pressure for your power and FWD.

Reeves
06-13-2012, 09:58 AM
Seems like a lot of tire pressure for your power and FWD.

Agreed. I run 8 psi hot on a sticky track and 6.5 psi hot on a normal track. That is 25 x 8.7 x 13 MH's HB11 compound.

Also agree on the burnouts. Get them hot once, then just scrub them after that.....but with over an hour on some of your runs, I would have done another burnout as well. Plus it looks mad tyte yo!

22shelby
06-13-2012, 11:52 AM
agreed... i too thnk with the M&H should drop the pressure down a bit... granted its a heavier car... but i think the too much air was causing a trampoline effect...

we shall find out at 22!!!

turboshad
06-13-2012, 11:56 AM
I tried 9.5 hot with the 24.5s and had to steer it quite a bit on the top end. I think a heavier car needs a bit more pressure.

turbo2point2
06-13-2012, 12:18 PM
A heavier car may need a bit more pressure on the 24.5's but with the 26's he can drop it. 7.5-8psi is where my car is usually happiest.

BadAssPerformance
06-13-2012, 01:22 PM
Thanks for the input everyone! Def gonna play with pressure at 22!

turboshad
06-13-2012, 01:46 PM
Gotta get me some 26s yo.

BadAssPerformance
06-13-2012, 01:50 PM
not 100% sold yet... car went its quickest on 24.5's!

turboshad
06-13-2012, 01:55 PM
But your car is red, everyone knows red cars on 26s are slowe.

csxtra
06-13-2012, 02:25 PM
But your car is red, everyone knows red cars on 26s are slowe.

:drum:

Pat
06-13-2012, 03:10 PM
Just point of reference, I've found that 8 psi works great on my 24.5's. Consistent 1.6's.

black86glhs
06-13-2012, 03:15 PM
If you drop the pressure to 2 psi, the tire flattens out so much it sling shots off the line. Your 60 ft times will drop to .8 or less!:p

turbovanman²
06-13-2012, 08:22 PM
I run the van at 14 psi with the 26's, scared to go any lower, thoughts?


A heavier car may need a bit more pressure on the 24.5's but with the 26's he can drop it. 7.5-8psi is where my car is usually happiest.

Your car is light though.

BadAssPerformance
06-13-2012, 08:38 PM
Just point of reference, I've found that 8 psi works great on my 24.5's. Consistent 1.6's.

Whats the car weigh?

Pat
06-13-2012, 10:31 PM
Whats the car weigh?

Surely less than yours....The ScAries now weighs 2360 with me. The Shadow is about 2-300 more. 1.6's in both at 8 psi.

Shadow
06-13-2012, 10:38 PM
I run the van at 14 psi with the 26's, scared to go any lower, thoughts?



Your waisting gear and getting No benefit from the 26's, your entire thinking is backasswards............

Only reason I went 26's was so I could air them down Below 9psi on 15" rims and Not get warned by the track officials that my slick were flat and they wouldn't let me run them like that. The 26's sidewall at 8psi looks like the 24.5 at 12psi. At 9 psi the 24.5's looked flat.

Now the added benefit was that I had no need for a hybrid trans as the 26's with 3:85 gears put me right in the sweet spot of my PB, all the way down the track!

turbovanman²
06-13-2012, 10:56 PM
Hmmmmmm, to jack some more, even though it weighs 3700 lbs? How low should I go?

Reeves
06-14-2012, 08:24 AM
JT,

Adjust your tire pressure another milli-PSI, and you'll be running 9's!

40094



How low should I go?


http://youtu.be/3uGrLpIGdy8

Shadow
06-14-2012, 10:44 AM
Hmmmmmm, to jack some more, even though it weighs 3700 lbs? How low should I go?

You Need gear Because it weighs 3700 lbs! Your wanting to drop to 2.92 and that would be fine for a 2500lb car that traps 130mph in the 1/4 on 26's, but on a heavy A$$ van it's Killing you! (I'll take this to your build thread so's not to jack JT's thread any more)

turbovanman²
06-14-2012, 01:00 PM
http://youtu.be/3uGrLpIGdy8

Damn dude, where do you find this stuff, lol.


You Need gear Because it weighs 3700 lbs! Your wanting to drop to 2.92 and that would be fine for a 2500lb car that traps 130mph in the 1/4 on 26's, but on a heavy A$$ van it's Killing you! (I'll take this to your build thread so's not to jack JT's thread any more)

Answered, :p

BadAssPerformance
06-14-2012, 06:32 PM
jt,

adjust your tire pressure another milli-psi, and you'll be running 9's!


lol!!

BadAssPerformance
06-19-2012, 01:50 PM
...car feels a couple pounds lighter today :D

contraption22
06-19-2012, 03:58 PM
...car feels a couple pounds lighter today :D

FiberOne for breakfast?

86Shelby
06-19-2012, 05:44 PM
FiberOne for breakfast? Don't forget Lunch, Dinner and afternoon snack.

22shelby
06-19-2012, 05:56 PM
FiberOne for breakfast?

hmmm i guess you could say that!!

BadAssPerformance
06-19-2012, 08:00 PM
LOL, its been a shitty day!

Reeves
06-20-2012, 09:26 AM
Fiberglass hood?

contraption22
06-20-2012, 09:40 AM
LOL, its been a shitty day!

LOL! Keep up with the Gatorade!

22shelby
06-20-2012, 10:40 AM
Fiberglass hood?

nope :eyebrows:

bakes
06-20-2012, 10:42 AM
carbon fiber front end and doors?

22shelby
06-20-2012, 10:45 AM
way off, im telling you, JT just went on a diet.... alot has changed in a year, just wait a few more days, it will all become soooooo clear at SDAC :D

BadAssPerformance
06-20-2012, 10:48 AM
Right

Ondonti
06-23-2012, 11:12 PM
Interested to see how the 26's effect driveline health. Hondas are usually afraid to run them because it runs up the cost to compete as few can afford all the repairs. That said our 60's all seem very weak in comparison on similar size tires. I know they all run 13" rims like Reeves and I don't really like the idea of fitment on 13" rims for a non L body.

I didn't have problems with 15" rims and 24.5's @ 8 psi but those were M/T's. Our track guys might just be used to the flat slicks. Only random people walking through the pits talking to car owners seemed worried. I think I broke an axle every time I can vividly remember running 8 psi in the tires. :yuck:

BadAssPerformance
06-25-2012, 05:52 PM
Our 60's are weak cuz our cars weigh wice as much as a civic, at least mine does.

turbovanman²
06-25-2012, 06:45 PM
Our 60's are weak cuz our cars weigh wice as much as a civic, at least mine does.

I think my van weighs as much as 2 Civics, :faint: :banghead:

BadAssPerformance
06-29-2012, 09:31 PM
Results from SDAC-22 Drag Day

Changes since the last time out...

-30lb lighter hood, thanks 22sehlby!
-RTV'ed the cam sensor to try to keep oil out

Run #1 - Right off the trailer, cold tires @ ~11psi, moderate burnout (was too far in water so not too hot), 2-step, spin in 1st then hook, granny shifted, no cut out! felt decent, new PB! :)

R/T: 0.314
60': 1.7050
330': 4.6569
1/8ET: 6.9678
1/8mph: 108.74
1000'ET: 8.9131
1000'mph: 127.04
1/4ET: 10.5638
1/4mph: 136.85

Run #2 - Broke reverse backing up to line up with the groove :(

Comments...

Too bad it broke, the one and only run made it the 2nd fastest car behind Slowes BSX

Reverse had been chattering ever since the twin disk went in... if its a quick fix, will race again soon... if broke bad, gonna build another trans

Glad the forward gears still work and was able to drive onto the trailer, LOL

135sohc
06-30-2012, 12:03 AM
Will be awaiting the carnage shots ;)

8valves
06-30-2012, 12:13 PM
That's funny, I remember mentioning to you at the car show that I thought I heard you went a .50 something! HA!

Reaper1
06-30-2012, 12:33 PM
That's the first time I've heard of reverse breaking!

BadAssPerformance
07-01-2012, 09:30 AM
It appears that the bearing backup plate bolt to the left of the input shaft (looking at the end of trans) worked itself out (aluminum threads came with it) and allowed the input shaft to push back causing less engagement (maybe 50%) between the reverse gear and input shaft. Pics to come

Clay
07-01-2012, 09:38 AM
Think you can put a helicoil in it?

BadAssPerformance
07-01-2012, 10:01 AM
Well, since the one worked loose, the next two (top & bottom) were doing double duty so aluminum threads came out with those too, and the plate got tweaked by the input shaft a bit, so its done. I really want to put this thing back together to see if reverse is fixed, and make sure everything else is OK, but might just start fresh... decisions

135sohc
07-01-2012, 11:46 AM
You were putting loctite on them right ?

I wonder if theres enough room to put a BHSCS from the backside/inside and make it act like a stud ? An entire end cap bearing plate like the older transmissions would go great lengths towards keeping things stiff and meshed... If Simon has even remembered those.

Turbo3Iroc
07-01-2012, 12:48 PM
Is it possible to drill the heads for safety wire?

BadAssPerformance
07-01-2012, 09:38 PM
You were putting loctite on them right ?

I wonder if theres enough room to put a BHSCS from the backside/inside and make it act like a stud ? An entire end cap bearing plate like the older transmissions would go great lengths towards keeping things stiff and meshed... If Simon has even remembered those.

I typically dont threadlock those (may change that) and never had them loosen before... guessing the threads were just yieled from over use.

The end bearing plate on the older trans' was reduced to the later style because the distance from the bearings to the bolts was too much, which is why the older ones flexed so much. I think I posted pics of the 555 I have with two extra c-sink bolts added between the two shaft bearings? Kindof a predecessor to the later style. A thicker CM support plate would be good. I like the stud idea too, not sure if it woudl fit, but have a hammered aluminum bearing plate I can chop up to see LOL


Is it possible to drill the heads for safety wire?

Definitely possible. Not sur eif safety wire woudl haev helped this though, i think the bolt was more pushed out than unthreaded :(

Turbo3Iroc
07-01-2012, 10:29 PM
I typically dont threadlock those (may change that) and never had them loosen before... guessing the threads were just yieled from over use.

The end bearing plate on the older trans' was reduced to the later style because the distance from the bearings to the bolts was too much, which is why the older ones flexed so much. I think I posted pics of the 555 I have with two extra c-sink bolts added between the two shaft bearings? Kindof a predecessor to the later style. A thicker CM support plate would be good. I like the stud idea too, not sure if it woudl fit, but have a hammered aluminum bearing plate I can chop up to see LOL



Definitely possible. Not sur eif safety wire woudl haev helped this though, i think the bolt was more pushed out than unthreaded :(

Would inserts give it more strength than just the bolts in aluminum? I'm no engineer but everything in aviation has inserts in it and similar conditions.

135sohc
07-01-2012, 11:46 PM
An insert might help by reducing thread wear/damage vs the bolt being torqued directly into the aluminum bulkhead especially if its being taken apart frequently but otherwise I just cant see it adding any direct strength because theres just not a whole lot of meat/structure in that area of the transmission. I've got a junk 568 case that I may throw something together tomorrow and check the clearance to see if theres enough room to put the bolts in from the backside and stud the plate into place.

Shadow
07-02-2012, 02:05 AM
Results from SDAC-22 Drag Day

Changes since the last time out...

-30lb lighter hood, thanks 22sehlby!
-RTV'ed the cam sensor to try to keep oil out

Run #1 - Right off the trailer, cold tires @ ~11psi, moderate burnout (was too far in water so not too hot), 2-step, spin in 1st then hook, granny shifted, no cut out! felt decent, new PB! :)

R/T: 0.314
60': 1.7050
330': 4.6569
1/8ET: 6.9678
1/8mph: 108.74
1000'ET: 8.9131
1000'mph: 127.04
1/4ET: 10.5638
1/4mph: 136.85



Nice run JT, is that your best 330' and if so, by how much? (next closest 330')

Went back a few pages and it looks like your best 330' with 24's was 4.77, so you've gained over a tenth with the 26's and twin disc so far! Not sure why that hasn't translated to a 10.50 (changed shift point/ better shifting down the track?) but your deff headed in the right direction! :clap:

Ondonti
07-02-2012, 06:13 AM
Waiting for carnage! Fixing something that is broke might result in a better product for the rest of us :grouphug: but possibly a waste of time and money.

Skibbe
07-02-2012, 11:09 AM
Well, since the one worked loose, the next two (top & bottom) were doing double duty so aluminum threads came out with those too, and the plate got tweaked by the input shaft a bit, so its done. I really want to put this thing back together to see if reverse is fixed, and make sure everything else is OK, but might just start fresh... decisions

You need an A568 for an around town test to see if the clutch is affecting reverse, or you want to race with the current trans to see if reverse is fixed?

I have a trans collecting dust if the former.

BadAssPerformance
07-02-2012, 01:33 PM
Nice run JT, is that your best 330' and if so, by how much? (next closest 330')

Went back a few pages and it looks like your best 330' with 24's was 4.77, so you've gained over a tenth with the 26's and twin disc so far! Not sure why that hasn't translated to a 10.50 (changed shift point/ better shifting down the track?) but your deff headed in the right direction! :clap:

Yeah, it is nice to not spin well into 3rd anymore, LOL... was hoping to play with it at SDAC, stoopid reverse :( LOL


Waiting for carnage! Fixing something that is broke might result in a better product for the rest of us :grouphug: but possibly a waste of time and money.

Carnage up tonight maybe


You need an A568 for an around town test to see if the clutch is affecting reverse, or you want to race with the current trans to see if reverse is fixed?

I have a trans collecting dust if the former.

Thanks for the offer Skibbe, but I want to check reverese with this pile before subjecting any known good trans to it. Got a spare trans of my own if needed and hopefully a good spare i-shaft in a parts trans from Dave

Anyone got a 91 523 3.85:1 they want to part with? ;)

Skibbe
07-03-2012, 02:16 PM
Anyone got a 91 523 3.85:1 they want to part with? ;)

Straight to 3.85 from 3.50 with no stop at 3.77?

Shadow
07-03-2012, 09:22 PM
Damn, are you still running 3.50 gears? :yuck:

BadAssPerformance
07-03-2012, 10:08 PM
Yep... they were much needed to try to stick the 24.5's. I'd like to get a good track day with the 26's and 3.50's to see if I can actually get it to hook in 2nd, then I'll probably try the 3.85's

8valves
07-03-2012, 10:20 PM
Keep the 3.50's and turn the boost up more for wheel speed. ;)

Shadow
07-03-2012, 11:21 PM
Yep... they were much needed to try to stick the 24.5's. I'd like to get a good track day with the 26's and 3.50's to see if I can actually get it to hook in 2nd, then I'll probably try the 3.85's

Prob a good idea, 1 run does not = full results and I'm willing to bet if you would have had 2-3 more runs at SDAC you would have done even better.

Having said that, I believe that 3.85 with 26's will make the car faster And quicker...........

Turbo3Iroc
07-04-2012, 12:23 AM
At your trap speed you only give up 134 rpm if you have to settle for 3.77's.

BadAssPerformance
07-04-2012, 12:03 PM
OUCH!
40416404174041840419

Sparkley fluid!
40415

The bearing TIG Glue seems to be doing OK...
40420

135sohc
07-04-2012, 12:22 PM
You sure know how to break stuff.... :thumb:

For some reason every time I have drained the soup out of my 568 it has that same color. I can see brass, aluminum and even some darker (steel??) colored sludge that settles to the bottom of the drain bucket after a week or two.

BadAssPerformance
07-04-2012, 12:36 PM
At your trap speed you only give up 134 rpm if you have to settle for 3.77's.

Looking at all 3, not sure the 3.77 step is worth it...

BadAssPerformance
07-04-2012, 12:42 PM
You sure know how to break stuff.... :thumb:

For some reason every time I have drained the soup out of my 568 it has that same color. I can see brass, aluminum and even some darker (steel??) colored sludge that settles to the bottom of the drain bucket after a week or two.

Yep, its a talent, LOL

Yeah, it took a few times to drain all the aluminum bits out from the intermediate shaft bearing cutting into the case. Hard to see in the one pic but the 3-4 fork pads took a hit too. I'll continue to run them for developments sake

turboshad
07-04-2012, 01:10 PM
My setup responded quit well to the 3.85 change. My thought was using as much of every gear as I can down the 1/4 and with my engine seeming to love the top end I figured the quicker I can get it there the better. With 24.5s I could still trap mid 140s in 4th gear. Time to man up on those shift points too ;)

Turbo3Iroc
07-04-2012, 01:15 PM
Looking at all 3, not sure the 3.77 step is worth it...

I was just saying if you can not find a set of 3.85's. I was lucky enough to stumble on a set when I was looking but they are a hard find today.

turbovanman²
07-04-2012, 01:19 PM
It appears that the bearing backup plate bolt to the left of the input shaft (looking at the end of trans) worked itself out (aluminum threads came with it) and allowed the input shaft to push back causing less engagement (maybe 50%) between the reverse gear and input shaft. Pics to come

Damn, but your probably right, its wear and tear from being taken apart. I've stripped out and pulled out numerous threads on my old case. Heli-coiled and all was good.

Your the 5 speed breakage king, I am the auto breakage king, lol.


You were putting loctite on them right ?

I wonder if theres enough room to put a BHSCS from the backside/inside and make it act like a stud ? An entire end cap bearing plate like the older transmissions would go great lengths towards keeping things stiff and meshed... If Simon has even remembered those.

Yeah, but Shayne elected not to proceed with a new plate, so we'll see how his holds up soon, then maybe we can make something or maybe Lengel?


Would inserts give it more strength than just the bolts in aluminum? I'm no engineer but everything in aviation has inserts in it and similar conditions.

Yep, way more strength.

Shadow
07-04-2012, 02:07 PM
My setup responded quit well to the 3.85 change. My thought was using as much of every gear as I can down the 1/4 and with my engine seeming to love the top end I figured the quicker I can get it there the better. With 24.5s I could still trap mid 140s in 4th gear. Time to man up on those shift points too ;)

Couldn't agree more, when I backed off to 6500rpm shifts the Charger slowed down to 10.57, it really wanted 7500+ RPM all the way down the track!

BadAssPerformance
07-04-2012, 03:49 PM
My setup responded quit well to the 3.85 change. My thought was using as much of every gear as I can down the 1/4 and with my engine seeming to love the top end I figured the quicker I can get it there the better. With 24.5s I could still trap mid 140s in 4th gear. Time to man up on those shift points too ;)

Yep, I've been shifting at 7k so definitely leaving some more there...

OK, anyone got a 3.85:1 523 ring and pinion, please PM me!

135sohc
07-04-2012, 03:54 PM
Someone here cut the center out of a 568 ring gear so it could be used with the OBX.

BadAssPerformance
07-04-2012, 03:57 PM
That would be another option...

cordes
07-04-2012, 09:51 PM
Wow JT. That's some damage for sure. Best of luck on the 3.85 FD 523 ring and pinion. Those were minivan only right?

I think my prediction one custom ring gears may be off, but it can't be long with how quickly some of this stuff is drying up.

135sohc
07-04-2012, 11:04 PM
minivan, daytona and lebaron I believe.

cordes
07-05-2012, 12:18 AM
minivan, daytona and lebaron I believe.

Interesting. I didn't think that they put the 3.85FD in the Daytona or Lebaron without going to the 568. Or could that FD be stolen from a 543?

135sohc
07-05-2012, 12:46 AM
A few times in the past when I was inquiring about different 523's listed for sale the sellers in multiple cases stated they were from N/A G & J body cars.

I dont feel like looking for it right now but if you look in the 90 & 91 parts catalogs and read through the lines it will tell you what FD ratio was used with what respective car/engine option as a final ruling.

cordes
07-05-2012, 12:46 AM
A few times in the past when I was inquiring about different 523's listed for sale the sellers in multiple cases stated they were from N/A G & J body cars.

I dont feel like looking for it right now but if you look in the 90 & 91 parts catalogs and read through the lines it will tell you what FD ratio was used with what respective car/engine option as a final ruling.

Very cool. You learn something so often it's nearly a daily thing.

Reeves
07-05-2012, 08:38 AM
very cool. You learn something so often it's nearly a daily thing.

lol!!

black86glhs
07-06-2012, 12:27 AM
Come on, rebuild the gears with your tig welder and a 5" grinder!

135sohc
07-06-2012, 01:13 AM
How rolled over are the splines on the input shaft ?

Ondonti
07-06-2012, 05:45 AM
Loved telling people that a 3.85 is the way to go and getting flamed.

I would rather take control of boost in 1st and 2nd gear then ruin 4th gear's effectiveness. actual gearing change in 1st and 2nd is small compared to how fubar'd 4th gets with long gearing and a high reving motor.

I wouldn't mind seeing a 3.0:1 custom final or something like that.

BadAssPerformance
07-06-2012, 08:45 AM
Come on, rebuild the gears with your tig welder and a 5" grinder!

If the input shaft wasn't heat treated, I'd be down... LOL


How rolled over are the splines on the input shaft ?

Rolled over? :confused:


Loved telling people that a 3.85 is the way to go and getting flamed.

Link to flamage? If it was regards to 24.5" tires and my car I stand by the 3.50:1 gear for that combo. Even on low boost, 1st and 2nd would be useless with a 3.85:1.

135sohc
07-06-2012, 01:16 PM
How loose of a fit is it between the input shaft splines and the clutch disc splines ? I have seen it on a few input shafts where the splines were very worn/edges rolled over from higher power levels and mileage.

Ondonti
07-07-2012, 06:50 AM
If the input shaft wasn't heat treated, I'd be down... LOL



Rolled over? :confused:



Link to flamage? If it was regards to 24.5" tires and my car I stand by the 3.50:1 gear for that combo. Even on low boost, 1st and 2nd would be useless with a 3.85:1.

Plenty of it in a bunch of hybrid trans hype threads. You are just hinting yourself at some of the defensiveness in those threads.

Not sure why people here try to bandaid poor boost control with long 1st and 2nd gearing. Who else is doing that these days besides...us? Boost or timing by gear (or time based retard/boost) is still myth here.

Tires can only handle so much and longer gearing will accelerate no better then decreased boost or timing. If 42mph in 1st vs 45mph (difference between 3.85 and 3.50 gears at 7000rpms somehow saves the world, thats cool, but I know it doesn't and you should to. Numbers don't lie, cars run faster when gearing and traction are both optimized without making the sacrifice of anything but what you don't need (excess power) and even Red Sled (a dodge!) knows you can't just throw all the beans at first gear. He is still running 24.5 tires since outlaw is dead. He is doing that with 2400 pounds of weight and more power then Brian Slowe. His car was as heavy as your car last year when he ran 8.8 and 166mph and then he put it on a diet.

There is no way to get around ruining 3rd and 4th gears based on being greedy for boost in the low rpms. I know for myself its a matter of not wanting to spend what it takes to get a proper boost control setup (or timing).

Feel free to explain how 10% longer gearing will handle anything more then 10% more power and I can accept the bogus hybrid transmission arguments. Hybrid transmissions are great for slow cars that don't want to shift into 4th gear and have wide powerbands. Longer 1st and 2nd gear is great but passing the traps halfway through 4th is silly. 3.0 FD would be great and that is easy to explain why.

BadAssPerformance
07-07-2012, 10:56 AM
How loose of a fit is it between the input shaft splines and the clutch disc splines ? I have seen it on a few input shafts where the splines were very worn/edges rolled over from higher power levels and mileage.

It fit pretty well (not snug or loose) when I test fit it while putting twin disk in. Will check it when i get a min to get back out to the garage


Plenty of it in a bunch of hybrid trans hype threads. You are just hinting yourself at some of the defensiveness in those threads.

I'm not hinting, I think the 3.50 hybrid swap is a great trans for our cars, once modified, for both dragstip and overall streetability. It's fun to do 100mph in 3rd gear. 40mpg on 100 octane in my Shadow on the highway (as long as staty out of boost) is sweet too!


Not sure why people here try to bandaid poor boost control with long 1st and 2nd gearing. Who else is doing that these days besides...us? Boost or timing by gear (or time based retard/boost) is still myth here.

Not a myth, but not as easy, and we're just cheap as usual... you're not sure why? you even admitted its teh cost yourself. LOL... but seriously, giving up boost/power at the line is giving up ET. The goal is to try to figure out how to make it stick with the power. Tires, suspenston, chassis setup are all variable to play with to make this happen. Keep in mind as well, this is not a 1500lb honda track car, but a 2700lb street car.

Also, gear ratio effectiveness matters... Changing the FDR or tire diameter does not only affect 1st and 2nd but gearing through the whole run. The goal is to use all of the non overdriven gears (difficult for us as 4th os OD, but i digress) up exactly at the end of the 1/4 mile.

I owned 24.5" tires.. wanted an OBX so went with the 3.50:1 (like most folks with OBX swaps) and didnt want to bang out 4th to redline, so ended up with this:

24.5" tire with 3.50:1 A568 ~155mph in 4th at 7k (144 @ 6500)

On a good sticky track, with the old turbo, I was able to hook this combo out of the hole. Not so much on an average stick track, and horrible on a crappy track. So all around, I would consider this a decent combo for the car at that time on an average track. If I had the 3.85:1, it would have probably worked OK high end for gearing, but would have been near the limiter high end:

24.5" tire with 3.85:1 A568 ~141mph in 4th at 7k (131 @ 6500)

Now since I started the build, I raised the limiter past 7k, however, even launching on lower boost it still kills the tires (on most tracks), so why would I drop from a 3.50:1 to a 3.85:1 with those tires? So I can spin in 4th?

So I went to 26" tires for added contact patch and sidewall:

26" tire with 3.50:1 A568 ~164 in 4th at 7k (152 @ 6500)

And now this is just too much gear from the taller tire for this car. If I went to take several hundred lbs out or add a couple hundred HP, sure, but this combo is not optimized... However, it can hook!

With the 26's I think it will hook with a 3.85 and the gearing is just about right:

26" tire with 3.85:1 A568 ~149mph in 4th at 7k (138 @ 6500)


Tires can only handle so much and longer gearing will accelerate no better then decreased boost or timing. If 42mph in 1st vs 45mph (difference between 3.85 and 3.50 gears at 7000rpms somehow saves the world, thats cool, but I know it doesn't and you should to.

I think you must have missed the comments I've made on a 24.5" tire with 3.50:1 (48mph @ 7000 in 1st) being severley limited traction past 80 mph?


Numbers don't lie, cars run faster when gearing and traction are both optimized without making the sacrifice of anything but what you don't need (excess power) and even Red Sled (a dodge!) knows you can't just throw all the beans at first gear. He is still running 24.5 tires since outlaw is dead. He is doing that with 2400 pounds of weight and more power then Brian Slowe. His car was as heavy as your car last year when he ran 8.8 and 166mph and then he put it on a diet.

Comparing my car to an 8 second car... OK.... What gear ratios and FRD is Red Sled running? 24.5" tires is only 1/2 of the equation... gear and tire diameter work together... oh, and he's running an auto trans too. hmm...

shayne
07-07-2012, 01:58 PM
i think your car is real nice and im jealous of how fast it is. i am looking forward to seeing how this twin disc clutch works out for you.

black86glhs
07-07-2012, 03:47 PM
i think your car is real nice and im jealous of how fast it is. i am looking forward to seeing how this twin disc clutch works out for you.

Yeah and I think Brent is just jealous......LOL.

BadAssPerformance
07-07-2012, 08:45 PM
i think your car is real nice and im jealous of how fast it is. i am looking forward to seeing how this twin disc clutch works out for you.

Thanks for the compliment, don't be jealous tho, its just a car, you can build one too! :thumb: The twin disk seems to work well, except possibly having an integral part in damaging reverse, LOL

shayne
07-08-2012, 03:00 AM
ive got my own daytona, and its a 3.0l. and its almost done, should be a laugh a minute. hoping to demonstrate that there is a better way to build a 3.0l than just what i see/read whats being done right now.

BadAssPerformance
07-08-2012, 09:50 AM
ive got my own daytona, and its a 3.0l. and its almost done, should be a laugh a minute. hoping to demonstrate that there is a better way to build a 3.0l than just what i see/read whats being done right now.

Cool. Lots of power potential with the 3.0L

dodgeshadowchik
07-09-2012, 08:20 AM
Just make it AWD, you know, because FWD is such a waste. :) ;)

BadAssPerformance
07-09-2012, 06:52 PM
yep lol...

8valves
07-09-2012, 07:10 PM
Which FAST are you on JT? Any internal boost control options with it? Settling down first and second gear on your car and a few others on the board would be worth it's weight in gold (ET). Not only that but it's way less abusive on parts, and the car itself.

BadAssPerformance
07-09-2012, 07:21 PM
Which FAST are you on JT? Any internal boost control options with it? Settling down first and second gear on your car and a few others on the board would be worth it's weight in gold (ET). Not only that but it's way less abusive on parts, and the car itself.

Old school FAST EFI, nothing per gear :(

8valves
07-09-2012, 10:04 PM
Old school FAST EFI, nothing per gear :(

Don't need anything fancy like that, just a simple VSS input from a rear wheel. :)

BadAssPerformance
07-10-2012, 12:49 AM
Don't need anything fancy like that, just a simple VSS input from a rear wheel. :)

Huh? got nothing to put that input in LOL

cordes
07-10-2012, 12:54 AM
Huh? got nothing to put that input in LOL

It would be awesome if you did. There are enough things out there with 4 wheel ABS which would be an easy enough switch to make it worth while I would think.

8valves
07-10-2012, 11:36 AM
You would just need one avilable input. Not sure if you have one on that system or not. Pretty sure that system was designed to run a Dominator, right?! Ha, kidding of course! I'd rather have it then the typical alternative.

BadAssPerformance
07-10-2012, 02:00 PM
LOL, no inputs :(

Reeves
07-10-2012, 03:16 PM
LOL, no inputs :(

Really? Dang....that is old school! Can you switch to HEI and a double pumper to free up some inputs? :P

BadAssPerformance
07-10-2012, 07:51 PM
LOL.. I got it from Tim Kish, I think he got it from FM in '98?

Aries_Turbo
07-11-2012, 08:24 AM
whats the model number of the actual ecu. maybe there is a firmware update that would enable some of this stuff.

Brian

BadAssPerformance
07-11-2012, 01:20 PM
Got the latest firmware... they stopped upgrading the old box when they cam eout with XFI

8valves
07-11-2012, 02:50 PM
Got the latest firmware... they stopped upgrading the old box when they cam eout with XFI

We'll just get you on an AEM and you'll be all set. Rumor is some guy around here uses their stuff a lot, and can do some nifty things with it. ;)

BadAssPerformance
07-11-2012, 08:41 PM
Lol...

moparman76_69
07-17-2012, 05:12 PM
All joking aside, having something to lessen the torque shock to the drivetrain would help you out alot.

BadAssPerformance
07-17-2012, 08:32 PM
yeah...

BadAssPerformance
07-28-2012, 03:34 PM
Just drove it around the block. Seemed OK. Trans is a tad noisier than before.. still jumpy into reverse like it was before it broke... hmmm... reverse doesnt liek something about the twin disk or something

Reeves
07-29-2012, 12:22 PM
Just drove it around the block. Seemed OK. Trans is a tad noisier than before.. still jumpy into reverse like it was before it broke... hmmm... reverse doesnt liek something about the twin disk or something

Try bringing the RPM's way up before engaging the clutch in reverse.....see if it gets any better.

BadAssPerformance
07-29-2012, 09:09 PM
Try bringing the RPM's way up before engaging the clutch in reverse.....see if it gets any better.

Interesting... was yours jumpy too? Since the twin engages like a light switch (on/off) I ddi try to very carefully slip it and it seemed a little better (less jump) and I think it was at higher RPM doing that too.



Well went to the Grove for the Great Lakes Mopar Festival today and made it about 10" down the track... :( Immediate thought was mayeb Axle? then maybe input shaft? The input shaft I got from Jackson to get it running again had a ton more spline wear than the one that shed some teeth and the wear is from a single disk clutch and nto twin disk so th etwin was VERY chattery....

However, after getting ti home, pretty sure it was the passenger side axle this time. The track was definitely sticky, but wonder if something is goofy with the diff to cause some harm to the axles... haven't taken them out yet for inspection. The axles in it are a different set of DSS L5's that were in the T2 Shadow for 2010 & 2011, so they got some passes on it but not as much as the first broken one had

Also, as I am thinking teh next trans might be a 3.85:1...

what do you folks think about axle stress of the 3.50:1 vs. the 3.85:1?

what do you folks think about input shaft stress of the 3.50:1 vs. the 3.85:1?

Discuss :)

2.216VTurbo
07-30-2012, 11:10 AM
Cricket JT,ordinarily I'd say 10" was a good thing:D but you just can't seem to catch a break at the track lately. My twin disc set up was also like 'a switch' but welding an extension of about 1.25" on the actuator arm helped quite a bit for modulating the engagement.

BadAssPerformance
07-30-2012, 01:26 PM
Yeah, I did extend the clutch lever too, for fear of over compresing the diaphram. Does yours have any issues in reverse?

turboshad
07-30-2012, 01:28 PM
You will be the first person I know who needs to upgrade his reverse gear for his racing tranny. :D

BadAssPerformance
07-30-2012, 01:32 PM
LOL... prolly wouldn't have that problem if the others were straight cut too ;)

black86glhs
07-30-2012, 08:41 PM
Your starting to act like Simon, but in the manual trans realm. Please stop.




















:D

BadAssPerformance
07-30-2012, 08:46 PM
LOL... I wonder if I have a list of how many times this trans has been apart

86Shelby
07-30-2012, 10:26 PM
If you put a helicoil in the end each time you tear it down it will be easier to keep track. Heck, the case might be getting to that point anyways... :p

135sohc
07-30-2012, 10:49 PM
stud it

turboshad
07-31-2012, 10:49 AM
what do you folks think about axle stress of the 3.50:1 vs. the 3.85:1?

what do you folks think about input shaft stress of the 3.50:1 vs. the 3.85:1?

Discuss :)

Not considering traction I the 3.85 should be harder on axles and easier on the input shaft. Considering traction I would think a 3.85 would be about the same on the axles since you are most likely spinning anyway and the tires will still have the same static stiction peak regardless of the gearing.

BadAssPerformance
07-31-2012, 09:35 PM
Hmmm...

Reeves
08-01-2012, 08:35 AM
JT, mine was not like an on/off switch at all. It was a little chattery, but I really think that was because I had to go with the sintered iron discs instead of the recommended ceramic due to thickness. I did have my clutch arm lengthened about 1.5" IIRC. I measured the throw at the TO bearing and set it to the recommended .330"

BadAssPerformance
08-01-2012, 01:28 PM
Good to know.. yeah, i think the ACt is iron too... definitely talkative.

Migh tpull the axles tonight to see whats up

BadAssPerformance
08-01-2012, 09:50 PM
OK, some trans/reverse carnage pics...

R&R'ed it out the side, took a can and a half of break clean to get clear fluid out of the drain hole.

Reverse is not so happy

Bearing plate, bearing support plate, reverse gear and slider and input shaft all replaced

TIG glue on intermediate/pinion shaft bearing still holding up

New bronze pads went in... Odd that they are more yellow-grey than the original set of prototypes, maybe the stock the original ones were made from was different cuz it was a differetn bar diameter? Good to see that the bronze as hard as it is still squishes instead of chips and absorbs debris instead of chipping

40897408984089940900409014090240903409044090540906 409074090840909409104091140912409134089740914

BadAssPerformance
08-01-2012, 10:09 PM
Looks like this one snapped a little cleaner than the last one... Hmmmm

40915

depenbrok
08-01-2012, 11:05 PM
If you need extra 568 parts ill bring all my extra's for you to mopar nats. I'm going with an auto now so its all yours bud. Is that a dss stage 5? Looks different than mine

lengel
08-01-2012, 11:07 PM
Was there coolant used when the prototypes were made?

135sohc
08-01-2012, 11:09 PM
Still running just 2 pads on each fork ?

black86glhs
08-01-2012, 11:25 PM
You know JT, you could still use the buggered shaft. Just figure out how to offset reverse so it uses the good half of the gear.:thumb:
Are these pics from this weekend or the last time it broke a couple weeks ago?

BadAssPerformance
08-01-2012, 11:27 PM
If you need extra 568 parts ill bring all my extra's for you to mopar nats. I'm going with an auto now so its all yours bud. Is that a dss stage 5? Looks different than mine

It's looking like I'm going to need 568 stuff for sure, that would be awesome!

Yes, that is a DSS L5 and I already sent an e-mail to them with pics of this one and the last one and how they broke completely differently...


Was there coolant used when the prototypes were made?

Good question, no coolant (other than air) used. Here is a pic as cut and also the raw bar

409164091740918


Still running just 2 pads on each fork ?

yep

BadAssPerformance
08-01-2012, 11:28 PM
You know JT, you could still use the buggered shaft. Just figure out how to offset reverse so it uses the good half of the gear.:thumb:
Are these pics from this weekend or the last time it broke a couple weeks ago?

LOL...

The reverse pics are from beaking reverse at SDAC-22

The axle pic is from Sunday

black86glhs
08-01-2012, 11:31 PM
LOL...

The reverse pics are from beaking reverse at SDAC-22

The axle pic is from SundayGotcha.....At first I thought it ate itself.....again. I almost cried.:( The axle isn't a big deal other than no power to ground.

BadAssPerformance
08-01-2012, 11:35 PM
Yeah... still wondering why reverse is jumpy tho :(

bakes
08-02-2012, 12:33 PM
Jt although different set ups my Tu purple clutch 6puck disc in a 3500# car will knock your filling out in Rev i have to raise the RPM a extra 1000-1500 just to stop it from grabbing/chattering. In forward gears it is a little grabby but it liveable( sucks in gridlock) ,dont get me wrong i love this clutch .

Also is there a sharp edge on the diff side gears spline to cause a stress riser???????

135sohc
08-02-2012, 12:42 PM
In all your changing of parts have you ever checked to see how much end-play the input shaft has ?

BadAssPerformance
08-02-2012, 01:13 PM
Jt although different set ups my Tu purple clutch 6puck disc in a 3500# car will knock your filling out in Rev i have to raise the RPM a extra 1000-1500 just to stop it from grabbing/chattering. In forward gears it is a little grabby but it liveable( sucks in gridlock) ,dont get me wrong i love this clutch .

Also is there a sharp edge on the diff side gears spline to cause a stress riser???????

The twin isnt grabby as much as noisy.. noisier this time around than with the old input shaft.

no sharp edges I can see. Was thinking diff bearing slop, but would need to pull it to get a measurement


In all your changing of parts have you ever checked to see how much end-play the input shaft has ?

Not an exact number. I can tell you that it is tighter with this one than the one that broke

135sohc
08-02-2012, 01:33 PM
with the pinion shaft removed from the case you can put that expanding tool you bought and measure the turning torque of the diff to get an idea of condition.

BadAssPerformance
08-02-2012, 09:55 PM
I forgot I had that, LOL, good idea!

I did put the spare pass side stub in each side and it didnt feel loose on bearing torque, but I'm wondering about the bits inside the OBX where the axles spline into vs. the bearing snouts. If there is looseness there, would there be binding maybe...

yep, over due for a new trans LOL

bfarroo
08-02-2012, 11:50 PM
Jt although different set ups my Tu purple clutch 6puck disc in a 3500# car will knock your filling out in Rev i have to raise the RPM a extra 1000-1500 just to stop it from grabbing/chattering. In forward gears it is a little grabby but it liveable( sucks in gridlock) ,dont get me wrong i love this clutch .

Also is there a sharp edge on the diff side gears spline to cause a stress riser???????

My TU 6puck is only slightly grabbier than the stock setup was.

bakes
08-03-2012, 01:55 AM
My TU 6puck is only slightly grabbier than the stock setup was.

are you running the over sized disc option and a purple plate???? sorry for the side track

shackwrrr
08-03-2012, 08:18 AM
No funnel in the pinion bearing?

135sohc
08-03-2012, 08:45 AM
Are both of those input shafts the same first gear ? the one you busted looks like a 92-93 1st gear, the replacement a 91 and older 1st gear.

BadAssPerformance
08-03-2012, 09:29 PM
No funnel in the pinion bearing?

Pinion bearing took it out,.. then when I replaced teh bearing, I tried a 555 one and that one died too :(


Are both of those input shafts the same first gear ? the one you busted looks like a 92-93 1st gear, the replacement a 91 and older 1st gear.

pretty sure the same number of teeth on both

lengel
08-04-2012, 09:19 AM
Good question, no coolant (other than air) used. Here is a pic as cut and also the raw bar

409164091740918



It looks like the 3-4 pads in that pic have more of a gold color to them. Do you think the ones that you pulled out of the trans could be discolored a little from being in the trans oil? I also just used air when I cut these. I have to say the raw stock that I got looks a little different then yours. It has more of a brownish color on the OD of the bar. I will take a pic of the raw bar at work next week. The first bar I got (1" diameter) from mc mastercarr, the other bars(1" & 1.25" diameter bars) I got from onlinemetals, but both had the exact same look/finish. Sorry maybe I should have put this in the shift fork pad thread.

Adam

Shadow
08-06-2012, 12:08 PM
Jt although different set ups my Tu purple clutch 6puck disc in a 3500# car will knock your filling out in Rev i have to raise the RPM a extra 1000-1500 just to stop it from grabbing/chattering. In forward gears it is a little grabby but it liveable( sucks in gridlock) ,dont get me wrong i love this clutch .


Really find it strange, all the trouble you guys are having with your clutches? I'm running a 3 puck solid hub and reverse is smooth and golden as is all forward gears once you've adjusted your driving to the pedal/engagement.

Are you guys sure this isn't all driver error? (I've seen ppl that simply can't adjust for more aggresive clutches and drive them the same as an organic stocker, Brutal!)

Or are we seeing the difference between a properly broken in clutch vs take it out and beat on it with-out proper break-in?

Reaper1
08-06-2012, 01:33 PM
My TU purple plate with OS option is just like stock going into reverse. I ALWAYS shift into 1st before going to reverse to help it mesh since reverse is not synchronized. It usually snicks right in. If not, I barely engage the clutch while applying pressure to the shifter and that usually does it with no issues.

BadAssPerformance
08-06-2012, 09:34 PM
Are you guys sure this isn't all driver error? (I've seen ppl that simply can't adjust for more aggresive clutches and drive them the same as an organic stocker, Brutal!)

Or are we seeing the difference between a properly broken in clutch vs take it out and beat on it with-out proper break-in?

Yep, gotta be one of those :thumb: ;)

black86glhs
08-06-2012, 09:44 PM
Yep, gotta be one of those :thumb: ;)Does he win a cookie for solving the crime....LOL?

86Shelby
08-06-2012, 11:30 PM
Or are we seeing the difference between a properly broken in clutch vs take it out and beat on it with-out proper break-in?


By proper break-in you mean start it up, check for leaks, then load it on the trailer; followed by a few starts in the staging lanes with a big ol 2nd gear burnout and all topped off by a 6k sidestep launch and 3 powershifts?

Shadow
08-07-2012, 12:15 AM
My TU purple plate with OS option is just like stock going into reverse. I ALWAYS shift into 1st before going to reverse to help it mesh since reverse is not synchronized. It usually snicks right in. If not, I barely engage the clutch while applying pressure to the shifter and that usually does it with no issues.

Interesting, I never need to go into first, almost always just goes smoothly into reverse. On the odd occasion when it doesn't though, I do the same as you, slightly engage the clutch and it drops right in.

I thought this might be due to how light my disc is, but JT's twin set-up should be pretty light as well.....no?

---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------


Does he win a cookie for solving the crime....LOL?

Home made chocolate chip or it didn't happen! :)

black86glhs
08-07-2012, 01:42 AM
Choco chip it is!!:thumb:

BadAssPerformance
08-07-2012, 06:51 PM
My TU purple plate with OS option is just like stock going into reverse. I ALWAYS shift into 1st before going to reverse to help it mesh since reverse is not synchronized. It usually snicks right in. If not, I barely engage the clutch while applying pressure to the shifter and that usually does it with no issues.

It goes into reverse fine, no issues. That's not the issue. It is at the point of clutch engagement, even sliping the clutch that sometimes it just catches and jumps. It did this with the old input shaft and the replacement which is worn more


By proper break-in you mean start it up, check for leaks, then load it on the trailer; followed by a few starts in the staging lanes with a big ol 2nd gear burnout and all topped off by a 6k sidestep launch and 3 powershifts?

I drove it around the block... and havn't really WOT shifted it yet!


I thought this might be due to how light my disc is, but JT's twin set-up should be pretty light as well.....no?

Pretty sure somewhere in this thread I posted that it is quite a bit lighter than the full size ACT setup

Shadow
08-08-2012, 10:41 AM
It goes into reverse fine, no issues. That's not the issue. It is at the point of clutch engagement, even sliping the clutch that sometimes it just catches and jumps. It did this with the old input shaft and the replacement which is worn more



It does this even after modding the TOB arm per the instructions I forwarded you? Or have you not lengthened the arm yet?

I was thinking you must have had something break loose and jam between the reverse gear in order to take it out like that, but your saying that it engages So violently that it breaks the gear instead of moving the car/ spinning the tires?

BadAssPerformance
08-08-2012, 01:39 PM
It does this even after modding the TOB arm per the instructions I forwarded you? Or have you not lengthened the arm yet?

I was thinking you must have had something break loose and jam between the reverse gear in order to take it out like that, but your saying that it engages So violently that it breaks the gear instead of moving the car/ spinning the tires?

I never modded the TOB lever for the old ACT clutch. After reading the ACT Twin precautions about setting it up in an SRT-4 for minimal travel I did end up lengthening it. I cut off the end of a spare lever then clamped it on to the current one and adjusted the length until it was minimal engagement them welded it there. Seems to work OK.

Either the clutch is grabbing or there is something jumping in the trans... let the clutch out sloooooowly and smoothly and the car starts moving fine, then, not even moving the clutch pedal, BAM! The whole car shudders, the only time I have felt a car jump like this was my old 86 EFI Lancer's A525 with a few teeth missing off the spider gears. It was one of these shudders combined with the bearing back up plate bolts backing out and allowing the input shaft to walk that allowed for 1/2 the reverse engagement and teeth removal... and/or, maybe reverse is just not lined up enough to an extra misalignment makes it less than enough tooth engagement

Shadow
08-08-2012, 09:58 PM
Was going to agree with you that your trans has prob just been apart too many times and time for a complete different case ect. But there's nothing I can think of that would cause what you are describing in the bearings/ gears that wouldn't be obvious. (severe binding or debrise in the gears)

Sounds like a faulty PP to me.

BadAssPerformance
08-08-2012, 10:07 PM
Why the Plate? No issues like this in forward gears.

Looking at the input shaft and reverse gear carnage, its the other (far) side of the gear's teeth missing... the reverse gear looks like it was past the input shaft teeth. I'll try to hold reverse from engaging so far and see if its any better....

shackwrrr
08-08-2012, 10:21 PM
Are the teeth on the pedal adjuster letting go? Could be when you are feathering the pedal the block slips and it dumps the clutch.

BadAssPerformance
08-08-2012, 11:02 PM
Interesting thought, but pretty sure thats OK. With the pedal held as stationary as possible it will be OK, jump, Ok, jump

Wondering if the reverse gear is pinched between 4th gear

135sohc
08-08-2012, 11:10 PM
maybe add some length to the spacer block so its not allowing the gear to slide back as far ?

Shadow
08-09-2012, 12:33 AM
Why the Plate? No issues like this in forward gears.



Well that was my next Q, but should have come first. lol For some reason I thought you had said it was doing this in reverse And first. My bad............

cordes
08-09-2012, 01:18 AM
maybe add some length to the spacer block so its not allowing the gear to slide back as far ?

Along those lines I would be thinking about everything which is responsible for moving reverse back and forth. It's been a while since I've had a 523/568 apart so I can't think of anything specifically.

BadAssPerformance
08-09-2012, 08:51 AM
maybe add some length to the spacer block so its not allowing the gear to slide back as far ?

Ya know, I almost windowed the case to see if I could see what it was doing, LOL! Looking at the reverse gear, the spacer and rubber bumper are wedged together...

135sohc
08-09-2012, 10:18 AM
Along those lines I would be thinking about everything which is responsible for moving reverse back and forth. It's been a while since I've had a 523/568 apart so I can't think of anything specifically.

Same idea as a 520 or 555, just a little more refined with the addition of those rubber washers to keep things quieter.

cordes
08-09-2012, 03:06 PM
Same idea as a 520 or 555, just a little more refined with the addition of those rubber washers to keep things quieter.

Well it should be easy to trouble shoot then. There's not much to those.

BadAssPerformance
08-10-2012, 11:13 PM
Mopar Nats Test-n-Tune Friday

Run #1 - Right off the trailer, after a couple rain showers, cold tires @ ~10.5psi, moderate burnout, 2-step, spin in 1st then hook, granny shifted, no cut out! felt decent, very exiced it all held together! :)

This was a fun race... caught sleeping at the tree and getting drilled by at least 4-5 car lengths out of the hole, then I proceeded to drive around him... had 10mph on him by the 1/8th :D

Dart________Shelby Z
0.116 :R/T: 0.412
1.535 :60': 1.752
4.504 :330': 4.732
7.046 :1/8ET: 7.073
96.44 :1/8mph: 106.82
9.246 :1000'ET: 9.033
11.127 :1/4ET: 10.699
119.69 : 1/4mph: 135.51

cordes
08-11-2012, 01:02 AM
This is great new JT. Sounds like I'm going to be able to live vicariously through the Z in a big way this weekend. Keep us updated.

22shelby
08-11-2012, 10:34 AM
yeah , nice run JT, by the 1/8 you were moving on that dart!!!! keep reppin the FWD crowd!!!! lets keep it together, we'z gots and RSD to attend on the 24th :D

Shadow
08-11-2012, 11:40 AM
This was a fun race... caught sleeping at the tree and getting drilled by at least 4-5 car lengths out of the hole, then I proceeded to drive around him... had 10mph on him by the 1/8th :D

Dart________Shelby Z
0.116 :R/T: 0.412
1.535 :60': 1.752
4.504 :330': 4.732
7.046 :1/8ET: 7.073
96.44 :1/8mph: 106.82
9.246 :1000'ET: 9.033
11.127 :1/4ET: 10.699
119.69 : 1/4mph: 135.51

Nice run JT! That Dart owner is gonna to take one look at your finishing MPH and think you have a Low 9 sec car and just aren't hooking it! lol

BadAssPerformance
08-13-2012, 12:05 AM
LOL, thanks guys... yeah, we turned some heads this weekend, fun times. Unfortunately, Saturday didn't go so well, broke the trans at the line and this time I'm pretty sure its terminal... done patching this one back together, gonna start with a whole different one this time.

cordes
08-13-2012, 12:23 AM
Sorry to hear it JT. Hopefully you can get this trans stuff figured out soon. It's been a real drag for sure. Pun intended.

BadAssPerformance
08-13-2012, 12:31 AM
LOL.. Yeah, this one was on borrowed time for the past year really. Just glad it went at teh line instead of on the run... that woulda been messy :eek:

cordes
08-13-2012, 12:49 AM
LOL.. Yeah, this one was on borrowed time for the past year really. Just glad it went at teh line instead of on the run... that woulda been messy :eek:

That bad huh? Did you break the case? Pop the end off?

135sohc
08-13-2012, 01:23 AM
Wonder how the Getrag unit used in the PT cruiser would hold up ?

cordes
08-13-2012, 01:46 AM
Wonder how the Getrag unit used in the PT cruiser would hold up ?

I've read that those are ridiculously strong, but i haven't seen pics of the internals yet. I think it would be a trans to look at iff going away from the 568.

BadAssPerformance
08-13-2012, 01:18 PM
That bad huh? Did you break the case? Pop the end off?

All internal, beat like a drum before I shut it off and the car was binding when trying to roll forward...


Wonder how the Getrag unit used in the PT cruiser would hold up ?

After the next 568, I'd be open to anything, LOL.. Need a LENCO transaxle :)

cordes
08-13-2012, 01:26 PM
Yikes. Beating like a drum is really, really bad in one of our transmissions. I wonder if you broke a shaft in there.

Reeves
08-13-2012, 02:14 PM
By proper break-in you mean start it up, check for leaks, then load it on the trailer; followed by a few starts in the staging lanes with a big ol 2nd gear burnout and all topped off by a 6k sidestep launch and 3 powershifts?

Who checks for leaks? That's what the track officials are for!

(badazz quote though! Props!)


Yikes. Beating like a drum is really, really bad in one of our transmissions.

Since when? This is news to me.


I wonder if you broke a shaft in there.

That's what she said.

cordes
08-13-2012, 02:40 PM
Who checks for leaks? That's what the track officials are for!

(badazz quote though! Props!)



Since when? This is news to me.



That's what she said.

You've probably got enough of them to make a drum kit by now!

Also, I love the mods you have listed for your Omni in your signature.

22shelby
08-14-2012, 01:36 AM
Lenco

SebringLX
08-14-2012, 10:40 AM
You mean your manual transmissions break too? I thought that only happened to automatics. ;)

BadAssPerformance
08-14-2012, 10:10 PM
we'z gots and RSD to attend on the 24th :D

Prolly wont have the new trans in by then... Maybe the Shadow?


You mean your manual transmissions break too? I thought that only happened to automatics. ;)

LOL, NOTHING is unbreakable!

22shelby
08-15-2012, 12:15 PM
oh im sure we could get action for the shadow... :)

BadAssPerformance
08-16-2012, 10:26 PM
Turbodave caught my run vs the Dart from the stand!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF5d_bPcPT0

speedfreek500
08-16-2012, 11:17 PM
Nice video, i bet the other driver was sayn i'am gonna win! then all of a sudden a red blur goes by and he says nooooooooooo. Just like Shadow says these tubo cars perform there best half way down the track to the finish.

BadAssPerformance
08-16-2012, 11:35 PM
Lol...