Opinion on flywheels

[Boogieman142]

Ok, i am debating on which flywheel to use, a lightweight one or the oem one. I am looking for peoples opinions on both of them from both standpoints(performance and every day driving) I know that the lighter one may lose gas mileage and the heavier one will hurt pickup. anyone got an opinion on this.

[cordes]

If you are going to be drag racing I would stick with the stock flywheel.

[GLHSKEN]

A 2.5L can get away with the lighter one easier than a 2.2L can.

[Murphy]

if you normal driving habits are spirited I would go with the LW one

[8valves]

Lightweight 100% all the way regardless of displacement. It's free horespower in a sense, and makes life easier for your engine. I absolutley love mine.

Aaron Miller

[cordes]

Lightweight 100% all the way regardless of displacement. It's free horespower in a sense, and makes life easier for your engine. I absolutley love mine.

Aaron Miller

In a high HP aplication such as yours could that actually help with traction out of the hole? If it does, I would immagine that you would not really know, but it is somthing to think about.

[GLHSKEN]

You would think. It is very difficult to launch even a high hp 2.2L with the alum flywheel when you get the grip of a proper set of slicks. Launching becomes even more of an art.

[cordes]

You would think. It is very difficult to launch even a high hp 2.2L with the alum flywheel when you get the grip of a proper set of slicks. Launching becomes even more of an art.

Traction in an L-body is not a problem I look forward to dealing with when I start to really put the power down. Some aluminum flywheel info/experience here that I have not seen on any other thread. Good stuff.

[mcsvt]

I had this same question. I am replacing my clutch in the next couple weeks and have considered an Al flywheel. I already have traction issues with my current tires, which are on the list for an upgrade. But putting one in means I am spending 600+ on my clutch upgrade....

Keep the opinions coming, it is helping me make the decision. :thumb:

[GLHSKEN]

Traction in an L-body is not a problem I look forward to dealing with when I start to really put the power down. Some aluminum flywheel info/experience here that I have not seen on any other thread. Good stuff.


Problem is, alum is great for the street... Put grippy 24.5 or larger slicks on and you would be shocked at how easily that car can bog with an aluminum flywheel on the strip..

[Boogieman142]

ok, so then i will stick to the stock one.

[ssheen]

My thoughts on it would be to try one and then you will know. If you do not like it, I am sure there will be a line of people to buy it off you. Hopefully I would be first in that line. ;)

I know a couple of autocross guys that just love the AL wheel. Joe OConner's web site list he runs an AL wheel and the lighter crank! He is/was a drag guy. I hope to put one in my street Daytona when I have time.

[8valves]

Problem is, alum is great for the street... Put grippy 24.5 or larger slicks on and you would be shocked at how easily that car can bog with an aluminum flywheel on the strip..

This is true Ken, but c'mon, let's get with the new age program here! Boost off the line w/ our torque will overcome an aluminum flywheel and slicks like there's no tommorow. Go watch the import boys who aren't making 400+ lb/ft of torque rock the slicks through 1 and 2 just due to having some substantial boost built on the line.

ANY reciprocating weight removed from the rotating assembly is good news in my eyes. It's free power really, like lightening a crank. That's power you just got out of a stock part, no different then porting a stock cast head.

Put a simple stutter box on your car Ken or Reeve's at 4500, watch boost hit 15+ psi and see how bad you have traction issues all over again!

Tidbit- example car, 15 psi max boost at 4500 rpms. Two step rev limiter at 3200 rpms nets 4 psi on the line and uncontrollable wheelspin on sticky street tires. When the tires get just enough slip to hit that full boost rpm point bog is no longer the problem! On slicks we'd just need to up the staged rpm 1000 or 1500 and once again, no problem. This is on an 8 lb flywheel car as well.

I hate to disagree with you Ken, but this goes along with the whole "52MM tb's are fine for everyone, and "a stock intake it just fine..." you know what I'm talking about. I think the aluminum flywheel is a great available modification that not enough people take advantage of.

This all of course, is just my opinion and experiences. Take it for what you will.

Aaron Miller

[20w/ashelby]

I think this is one of the area's that not enough people have experimented with. There are already a lot of factory issues that make the car harder to drive. This may make it harder to launch but once it's figured out may be a big help.

[GLHSKEN]

LOL Aaron... You made me laugh grasshopper... They are VERY tricky to launch with. I saw O'Conner mentioned... I've had the privledge to be Joe's friend for a few years now. More than 50% of his launches are bogs. But MAN O MAN does the car fly after it gets going. (he has 26" slicks now, made it worse).

And Aaron... I think you meant 46mm TB's... Not 52's ;)... To that I will tell Ya... I have a 52mm for my fighting engine. I also have an intake manifold that NOBODY I know would put on their car. Engine is apart now... If you come down for the Fling, I'll show it to you. Massive porting and GASKET matched upper and lower halves... You know, the thing everyone says NOT to do. 10 mph roll in second, she was frying the tires by 20mph. This hits hard.

But everything else is taken care of. Block, SM Head, 3" everything for exhaust.

[Will Martin]

Well Simon took a ride in my car with my new engine about 20 minutes ago and he can vouch for the quickness of it. I have a 2.2 with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and I'm running a stock VNT cal for now. The acceleration comes quickly and I'm sure when I get my upgraded cal, it'll be even faster. I have not had a chance to run it on the track yet, but like many have said, on the street, it's da bomb! ;)

[GLHSKEN]

I have not had a chance to run it on the track yet, but like many have said, on the street, it's da bomb! ;)

Well said and I agree... For quickness it's a great choice and SHOULD aid traction on the street.

[10G OMNI]

I run one in my 300+hp omni on the street and track.I would recommend it to anyone,the engine revs much quicker just in nutral,like a honda.
The weight saving is incrediable,when i held both in my hand i knew right there that was the right choice,plus i read this article on a MR-2 turbo that made around 320hp with 2.2L and they tested a lighter flywheel on it and it picked up 10-12hp funny thing is that the MR2 flywheel weight just the same as ours,18 oem and 8 LW
Alltho this might be the last place to look for power.

[8valves]

LOL Aaron... You made me laugh grasshopper... They are VERY tricky to launch with. I saw O'Conner mentioned... I've had the privledge to be Joe's friend for a few years now. More than 50% of his launches are bogs. But MAN O MAN does the car fly after it gets going. (he has 26" slicks now, made it worse).

And Aaron... I think you meant 46mm TB's... Not 52's ;)... To that I will tell Ya... I have a 52mm for my fighting engine. I also have an intake manifold that NOBODY I know would put on their car. Engine is apart now... If you come down for the Fling, I'll show it to you. Massive porting and GASKET matched upper and lower halves... You know, the thing everyone says NOT to do. 10 mph roll in second, she was frying the tires by 20mph. This hits hard.

But everything else is taken care of. Block, SM Head, 3" everything for exhaust.

Oh no, I'll agree that it will be tricky to launch, just let me borrow your slicks and I'll prove it! But, in my opinion the lack of consistancy until a stutter box system is utilized is worth the extra available rev happiness of the motor... espescially when you've got a top end setup like mine! :eyebrows: Them are fightin' words!!! :D

Also, matching the runners is only bad if you don't open them up all the way through. Something tells me that you are for sure set on that being taken care of :) Hey, I've got a stock lower intake too! Stock appearing that is.

Neat tidbit, go nuts with a carbide bit and an air tool on the exhaust housing and swingvalve assembly. Get it as open as possible while retaining smooth curves/transitions, and hog the hell out of it. SR guys are seeing 50 WHP gains by extrude honing their turbine housings and manifolds. The good 'ole log header debate? Turbo magazine's SR20 Sentra made 570 whp on a weld-el log manifold... sound familiar!?

It's going to be fun this spring Ken. But I still think you should get an aluminum flywheel! How often do you like to have some fun on the streets... and how many of those times are you rockin the M&H's? Something to think about... :p

Aaron Miller

[GLHSKEN]

Hmmm good info on the weld el manifold. Still not sure when my car will be up Aaron. Too many others to work on. Starting 2 engines in the next week or so. Building them in the basement. One thing for sure... I'll be rockin on DR's full time next time she comes up.

Debating which of my parts will go on my son's car. (No not the SM head) Whatever he gets, I upgrade...

[8valves]

Hmmm good info on the weld el manifold. Still not sure when my car will be up Aaron. Too many others to work on. Starting 2 engines in the next week or so. Building them in the basement. One thing for sure... I'll be rockin on DR's full time next time she comes up.

Debating which of my parts will go on my son's car. (No not the SM head) Whatever he gets, I upgrade...

I think you want to give your son your intake manifold, cam, and turbo... that leads the way to a bigger cam, better intake, and a whopper of a turbo! :p

Aaron Miller

[8valves]

BTW- the 17's are gone to Kevin I now. No more low profile for me. I'll miss the way she looks for sure, but it's on to 11.8 lb/each 15's with 225/50 BF DR's for me as well :thumb:

Aaron Miller

[ssheen]

Thanks for the good info. My mind is now made up to do the AL flywheel and lighter crank when I can.

[R/T]

FYI:

After me nagging him forever - :blah:

Joe O'Conner put his stock steel flywheel back on the car about 2 seasons ago. Thus his recent sucess at launching it.

He made more good passes at SDAC15 drag day than he had in the past 2 years. :p

It makes 400+HP and 400+ FtLbs - and the aluminium flywheel was *useless* for dragracing.

As Ken said, with the alloy unit , it bogged 75% of the time when it hooked.
:(

[SpoolinGLH]

Now what if you have a Forged Crank?? :o

[GLHSKEN]

Go cast... The inertia from the flywheel is over a larger arc... The cast crank won't affect the launches nearly as much...

R/t... great use of smiles... We all nagged Joe about the flywheel. Glad you were able to get through to him finally...

[8valves]

I'm still sticking to my guns boys, sorry to say. Although I know Joe uses a msd system that allows a two-stepped launch, which is an interesting tidbit. I'll work through it though, it's worth it in my mind.

Aaron Miller

[GLHSKEN]

That's why we are all here... To share ideas and opinions

[2.216VTurbo]

I'm a little late on this thread but...

The Al Flywheel is coming out of my ~400 HP GLHS the next time the trans is out. I do like it for the street (once the car is rolling;) ) and your motor can throw some amazing revs at the guy in the next lane with it. I have to say launching even for a little spirited street driving is tough with the lightweight.

Also you can take it with a grain here but I'm pretty convinced that the Fidanza made my RevLock clutch slip at last years Mopars at the Strip. Clutch was carefully broken in with over 1K miles before any abuse was thrown at it. Ran a single street tire pass (lousy Et with 114MPH trap) then went over to the mobile dyno they had there just for fun, plus I knew I had too much fuel for the best power. First pull 14 PSI boost 272 WHP, after just a half a wastegate turn (manual spring type external) 16PSI 302 WHP, took fuel pressure out for runs three and four and ended up with 384 WHP still at 16 PSI.

Back to the pits bolted on the slicks (they were new loaners M&H 8.0" I think)
all set for a killer pass with the dyno tuning and new slicks, bogged the launch (I'll blame it on the Fidanza, not me:p ) and then into third wild clutch slip:mad: Backpedaled it a bit cause I thought it was wheelspin at first and went to fourth kind of gently. Way more obvious clutch slip in fourth and aborted the run.

Now AFAIK, the RevLocks are supposed to be good to over 450 in a lightweight car like an S car with ~200 lbs taken out of it, but it definatley was not holding 385WHP with slicks:(

I got a few opinions about the clutch trouble and one that really made sense to me is that with a light flywheel and high HP car, the motor is allowed to rev up so fast, that the clutch can't keep up and the slip occurs. Just a few tics slower on the time up to speed and the clutch would probably hold without slippage.

I have put another 1100 or so miles on the set up since the day at the drags and on the street the RevLock has not slipped again. I'm not autocrossing the car so the extra work that the Al flywheel makes me perform at every stoplight is just not worth the tradeoff IMO.

[GLHNSLHT2]

on street tires I had to drop my launch rpms by 500rpms at the track. The car launches consistent as hell and weighs 3120 with a 2.5. Might be a bit different on slicks but I will never run a stock flywheel again.

[Omnious]

My opinion is, if you have a light weight crank stay away from the light flywheel

[GLHSKEN]

2.5L and aluminum flywheel make sense.. 2.2L and launching a car... no way. As with everything, there are trade-offs!!

[The S is Silent]

How would the AL flywheel behave in a light car with a 2.5? I'm considering one for my charger. Would one be ok in an L-body making 300ish hp on a 2.5, or does the benefit of an AL flywheel diminish at higher HP levels?

[iTurbo]

I've been wondering about that particular combo as well ^. Especially since my GLH is 99% street driven.

I have been thinking of going back to 2.2L, but this 2.5L in a light car business is too much fun at work delivering pizza.

[Will Martin]

How would the AL flywheel behave in a light car with a 2.5? I'm considering one for my charger. Would one be ok in an L-body making 300ish hp on a 2.5, or does the benefit of an AL flywheel diminish at higher HP levels?

The closest I can give you to this is I had the following combo in my GLH. Simon took a spin in it so he can tell you how fast it rev'd.

-stock 2.5l engine
-FWDP S3 VNT cal
-Aluminum flywheel
-+20 injectors
-S60 VNT
-2.5" exhaust
-timing at 12 degrees

Off the line the car barely saw 1st gear as it was done and over in a second or two. In higher gears, the acceleration was nice, but with no head work or tuning, top end was a bit "off". Before melting the number one piston, this set up was enough to keep me half a car length ahead of a new BMW M3 convertible up to about 100 mph. ;)

[turbovanman²]

Yep, Will's car accelerates and revs so freely-on both engines, its sweet, :nod:

I can vouch for lightened flywheels, my bro's bug, we put one in and boy, it revved up sooo fast vs stocker, and we did back to back testing, the engine takes 10 mins to drop, :thumb:

A lighter flywheel lets the engine rev but makes it hard to launch as the intertia is reduced, which can bog the engine.

[GLHSKEN]

Will, the 2.2L is no different off the line. The nose of my car is coming up before the 60' mark and in 4th before the 1/8 mile just holding on for the ride in a low power 2.2L (290/340). 1st and second gear are used for less than a second each.

[93sundance]

Justin, this is for the 3.0L right? If it is then get the aluminum one! The engine revs alot faster and it really helps acceleration. I dont see how your fuel economy would go down. In my opinion the only bad thing about the aluminum is the price. I feel its worth it though. GET IT!

[turbovanman²]

If its for a 3.0L, I would do it, you have 2 more cylinders and more torque to keep the inertia up.

[Boogieman142]

yeah, i will use the stock one for now but later i will use the lw one

[93sundance]

If its for a 3.0L, I would do it, you have 2 more cylinders and more torque to keep the inertia up.


Hell yeah man. Its almost impossible to bog this motor. Its a torque monster. I launch at around 1500 rpm at the track and pull 2.0 60 fts and they are going to get better.

[10G OMNI]

Just wanted to ad to the thread that there is now a steel LW flywheel 13.6pounds wich would suit both drag and street guys.

[GLHSKEN]

10G... any thoughts on the rest of what was posted... I know how your car runs. Which are you running??

[10G OMNI]

I run the aluminum flywheel for both the track and the street,with a L body it dosent bog as much as another heavy car. It takes a lot more skill not to bog it at the drag strip but once you find your cars sweet spot it gets better.
One thing i did notice is some more rpm droop between 2and3 3and4 because of less rotating mass and it takes a little to get it back,all most want to power shift it.There is a slight delay in boost during shifting that is for sure.
I do like the idea of only 8 pounds of strain on the tranny,should make it last a little longer if anything.
I really like the new steel flywheel at 13.6pounds which sounds just about perfect.If i knew what i know and this steel flywheel was around i would have bought it.

[GLHSKEN]

Thanks .... Who's selling the flywheel.

[8valves]

I run the aluminum flywheel for both the track and the street,with a L body it dosent bog as much as another heavy car. It takes a lot more skill not to bog it at the drag strip but once you find your cars sweet spot it gets better.
One thing i did notice is some more rpm droop between 2and3 3and4 because of less rotating mass and it takes a little to get it back,all most want to power shift it.There is a slight delay in boost during shifting that is for sure.
I do like the idea of only 8 pounds of strain on the tranny,should make it last a little longer if anything.
I really like the new steel flywheel at 13.6pounds which sounds just about perfect.If i knew what i know and this steel flywheel was around i would have bought it.

This will also depend on what your shift point RPM is and where your car comes into peak torque. For the guys that are spinning higher revs the falling off of the power between shifts will become less of an issue. Thanks for the words of experience though!

Aaron Miller

[10G OMNI]

Thanks .... Who's selling the flywheel.

FWD is selling them $350

[Wannaberacer]

i'm replacing my whole clutch set up. any ideas what i should replace along with it while i'm at it?

[Boogieman142]

also, should i use new bolts on my flywheel or ones from my jy car. had the same flywheel and clutch.

[8valves]

New bolts should always be used. Red loc-tite as well.

Aaron Miller

[Boogieman142]

i'm replacing my whole clutch set up. any ideas what i should replace along with it while i'm at it?

rear main engine seal, input shaft seal.