So, you want a 2.4 in your car.... here's some info.

[TurbododgePirate]

So, you looked at the Hybrid swap, but don't want to do all the fabrication to put a 16V head on a 8V block. It looks like swapping the entire 16V 2.4 would be easier, right? Well... Maybe. Maybe not.

16V non-srt motors.

The 16V block 1997 to 2001 doesn't have a lot of changes. Nice and strong. But, there are some changes you will need to make to it.

The main bearings will have to be changed. The stock 2.4 NA bearings can't stand up to the punishment. You'll need SRT bearings. MAIN BEARING 5012582AA $6.90 (4 REQUIRED)

Rods and pistons: SRT4 rods and pistons and bearings are cheap and you can get the Rings as well. ROD BREARING 5093448AB $5.40 (4 REQUIRED),PISTON/ROD ASSEMBLY 4884247AD $49.78 (4 REQUIRED),RING SET 5093441AA $19.44 (1 REQUIRED)
Or, you can use a T2 rod form a 2.5L 1989+ Turbo dodge and a custom forged piston. With stock Clevite 77 bearings.

Water and oil pump? Well, there are people out there running the NA oil and water pump with no issues at all. But, you can choose to upgrade. If you do you'll need a SRT oil pump, water pump, hydraulic tensioner and other odds and ends. Want them? Here they are:

Tensionser: 4781570AB
- bolt: 6101763
- bolt: 6506019AA
Water Pump:4884159AA
- bolt: 6503255 (x 4)
Idler Pulley: 04781569AB
Oil Pump Pickup/Screen: 4792304AC
Oil Pan: 4777991AA
Oil Pump: 4777955AA
Oil Pan Gasket: 4777994AA
Oil Filter Connector: 4777998AA
Oil Filter Connector Gasket: 4884000AA
Oil Filter Connector Screw: 6102041AA (x 3)
Front Seal (for oil pump): 4667198

The tensioner upgrade package part number for the PT is 5114069AA. It includes the tensioner, both covers, and some screws. It will make it so you have the plastic covers that cover and protect the timing belt. Cost from Fenton dodge is $127

4884159AA $46.15 SRT4 Water pump
5114072AA $113.30 Complete Tensioner upgrade


The head? Well, the head should be specific to your block, although all DOHC heads from 1997 to 1999 should be basically the same.

The mounts For the passengers side you'll need a special adapter bracket made to place the 2.4 in the 2.0 neon engien compartment. It is made by toomanyneons on www.neons.org. They are $78 Paypal shipped bwsemail@gmail.com See them here http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=169980/
The drivers side depends on the tranny. Currently you can use a TD 413 mount on the neon 413 based tranny as I understand it. The 5 speed neon NVT tranny mount is a work in progress, I'll update when I know more. As is the front motor mount.

Intake Manifolds You can use just about any stock 2.0 or 2.4 intake manifold. My suggestion, Lonewolf Performance.

Transmissions Yes, you can install the cable operated NVT350 1995-1999 neon 5 speed in either 3.55 FD or 3.94 FD. Yes, you can install a TD 520,523,555,568 tranny with some modification. Yes, you can install a srt4 tranny, but you also have to install a hydraulic clutch system.

Axles Stock large splined axles should do to begin with.

Engine management Your choice.


That's all for now folks! ~~Heath

[GLHS592]

Great information!


Rods and pistons: SRT4 rods and pistons and bearings are cheap and you can get the Rings as well. ROD BREARING 5093448AB $5.40 (4 REQUIRED),PISTON/ROD ASSEMBLY 4884247AD $49.78 (4 REQUIRED),RING SET 5093441AA $19.44 (1 REQUIRED)
Or, you can use a T2 rod form a 2.5L 1989+ Turbo dodge and a custom forged piston. With stock Clevite 77 bearings.

Do the rods have to be 1989 and up? What about 1987 and up turbo 2 rods? I thought the turbo rods were all the same after 1986.

[altered7151]

Does the early 2.4 head bolt up to a newer (05) block? I have a 97 head here in the garage, and just scored a 8k mile 2.4 short block that needs bearings. If the head would bolt up it save me some time and cash.

[TurbododgePirate]

Great information!



Do the rods have to be 1989 and up? What about 1987 and up turbo 2 rods? I thought the turbo rods were all the same after 1986.

Turbo 2 rods or 1989 and up.

[TurbododgePirate]

Does the early 2.4 head bolt up to a newer (05) block? I have a 97 head here in the garage, and just scored a 8k mile 2.4 short block that needs bearings. If the head would bolt up it save me some time and cash.

Bolt up yes, but there are issues when it comes to the oiling passages. The 05 block has a change, not 100% of what it is right now. Plus the exhaust passages are different. Get a newer head 2001+

[Dietro]

I smell a sticky coming in this thread's future! :thumb:

[altered7151]

Bolt up yes, but there are issues when it comes to the oiling passages. The 05 block has a change, not 100% of what it is right now. Plus the exhaust passages are different. Get a newer head 2001+

Aye Aye captain! Guess I'll keep an eye out for a later model head.

[Frank]

Actually this will be a good FAQ. However lets give it a week for more to come!

[GLHS592]

Also, you discussed motor mount options in a Neon. Can somebody explain the mounts needed for a K-based or L-based swap with a 520/555/523/568? I've heard conflicting stories.

[TurbododgePirate]

Also, you discussed motor mount options in a Neon. Can somebody explain the mounts needed for a K-based or L-based swap with a 520/555/523/568? I've heard conflicting stories.


Sure. To my knowledge the $75 adapter is the one we need to fit the motor in a K based, or L body car. Just like a neon. I have yet to determine wether you use a Stratus mount, or a neon mount. I have heard both. I also understand that you STILL need to space the mount over a bit.

If using a 520/555/523/568, I would assume you could use the stock mount. But I'll let someone who knows answer that if they can. ~~Heath

[GLHS592]

Sure. To my knowledge the $75 adapter is the one we need to fit the motor in a K based, or L body car. Just like a neon. I have yet to determine wether you use a Stratus mount, or a neon mount. I have heard both. I also understand that you STILL need to space the mount over a bit.

If using a 520/555/523/568, I would assume you could use the stock mount. But I'll let someone who knows answer that if they can. ~~Heath

When using a 520/555/523/568, I'm assuming you can use the factory bobble strut and driver's side motor mount. I'd think a front mount could be fabbed up from the 2.4 (motor side) and 2.2 (body side) mounts. Am I thinking right?

I'll go check out the adapter you linked us to. I might have a few questions after that.

[David Bohrer]

Turbododgepirate wroteth:
To my knowledge the $75 adapter is the one we need to fit the motor in a K based, or L body car. Just like a neon. I have yet to determine wether you use a Stratus mount, or a neon mount

That adapter is to be used with the Stratus mount. That is when it is done in a Neon. The even cheaper option is to get a piece of steel 4"x8"x1/4" and bend a 90* 3/4" lip on the short side.Drill all needed holes and Voila'! $2 adapter!

Altered wrote:
Aye Aye captain! Guess I'll keep an eye out for a later model head.

All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though.

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4 litres:

Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue.

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and block on the front drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head I THINK.

Try to stick with 2.4l heads since they have equal head bolt lengths and do not have the shorter outer "four" as seen on the 2.0 DOHC heads-Edit-its the block that causes the need for shorter bolts, not the head-there identical

I have done all of these and have had no ill effects due to the eliminated oil drain.

I am sure I will edit and add to this. But, it is almost a hi-jack and we might need to start another thread on head modifications.

Daveb.

[altered7151]

Turbododgepirate wroteth:

That adapter is to be used with the Stratus mount. That is when it is done in a Neon. The even cheaper option is to get a piece of steel 4"x8"x1/4" and bend a 90* 3/4" lip on the short side.Drill all needed holes and Voila'! $2 adapter!

Altered wrote:

All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though.

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4 litres:

Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue.

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and block on the front drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head I THINK.

Try to stick with 2.4l heads since they have equal head bolt lengths and do not have the shorter outer "four" as seen on the 2.0 DOHC heads-Edit-its the block that causes the need for shorter bolts, not the head-there identical

I have done all of these and have had no ill effects due to the eliminated oil drain.

I am sure I will edit and add to this. But, it is almost a hi-jack and we might need to start another thread on head modifications.

Daveb.


I think your title should be changed to "Resident 420A Expert" ;) So what of a pre 2001 head on a +2001 block? Same oil passage concern as the late head on early block?

[David Bohrer]

altered wrote:
I think your title should be changed to "Resident 420A Expert" So what of a pre 2001 head on a +2001 block? Same oil passage concern as the late head on early block?


LOL! I was wondering if it could be changed since I am technically a "Holset" booster :eyebrows: . But, that is another thread.....

As for your question I THINK you mean't 2002+ block and a pre 2001 head. And yes you would still have the problem just in reverse hole offset.

[altered7151]

altered wrote:


LOL! I was wondering if it could be changed since I am technically a "Holset" booster :eyebrows: . But, that is another thread.....

As for your question I THINK you mean't 2002+ block and a pre 2001 head. And yes you would still have the problem just in reverse hole offset.

Yeah thats what I meant, ok, thats what I figured that it would be the same problem, just reversed.
So since you have quite a bit of experience with them, do you feel the 2002+ blocks are worth the extra money. I know the earlier 2.4's are starting to pop up in j-yards now and can be had for pretty cheap, whereas the 2002+ are still harder to find and thus cost a little more coin. I know the heads are supposed to flow better and the blocks have some advantages, but can the older blocks and heads over come them?

[David Bohrer]

The block is able to take massive power whether it be an old style or a new style. The best one is the SRT or PT turbo block since they have the factory turbo drain back and oil sprayers for the pistons. Two easy to overcome obsticals but, to each their own.

The heads get a little more involved.

2.0/2.4 N/A are next in the food chain until...

PT N/A Head that has NO EGR is the next best circa @ 2002 mid year. Lower exhaust port floor = better flow:p

PT turbo head is better yet since it has better exhaust valves and no EGR(technically). This can be found CHEAP and are nearly as good as...

SRT turbo head . The best flowing stock head you can get! BUT, to use an old style intake mani (non-SRT) you must add metal and create bolt holes in the intake side of the head so that you have enough clampage. Even then you must drill out two extra holes in the intake manifold flange so that it can seal properly.

This is my personal opinion and is based off experience, dyno time and flow #'s of all the motor combo's that I have had or have built for people and then tuned.

In my stuff somewhere is flow # comparisions between them all but, you could head over to the neons.org and drown in that sea of miss-information to find it.

Dave B.

[altered7151]

The block is able to take massive power whether it be an old style or a new style. The best one is the SRT or PT turbo block since they have the factory turbo drain back and oil sprayers for the pistons. Two easy to overcome obsticals but, to each their own.

The heads get a little more involved.

2.0/2.4 N/A are next in the food chain until...

PT N/A Head that has NO EGR is the next best circa @ 2002 mid year. Lower exhaust port floor = better flow:p

PT turbo head is better yet since it has better exhaust valves and no EGR(technically). This can be found CHEAP and are nearly as good as...

SRT turbo head . The best flowing stock head you can get! BUT, to use an old style intake mani (non-SRT) you must add metal and create bolt holes in the intake side of the head so that you have enough clampage. Even then you must drill out two extra holes in the intake manifold flange so that it can seal properly.

This is my personal opinion and is based off experience, dyno time and flow #'s of all the motor combo's that I have had or have built for people and then tuned.

In my stuff somewhere is flow # comparisions between them all but, you could head over to the neons.org and drown in that sea of miss-information to find it.

Dave B.

Awesome, thanks Dave, you're the man. I have been trying to wade through the stuff at neons.org, but like you stated it seems to be alot of contridicting info with people arguing back and forth. I'd much rather hear it from someone who has some actual track time with the parts. BTW, keep up the good work on your car, I lurk at both honda-tech.com and neons.org so have been following your work, good stuff!

[r00tcause]

Also, you discussed motor mount options in a Neon. Can somebody explain the mounts needed for a K-based or L-based swap with a 520/555/523/568? I've heard conflicting stories.


If you use a 568/etc then you will need to creat an "l bracket" to bolt it to the block because one of the bolts does not line up with the 2.4 As far as mounting it to your car, it would mount like normal. Stock trans mout and bobble strut.

Also, some forget this so I will mention. If you use a 2.4 N/A block you will have to drill an oil return hole for the turbo and you will need to add an oil distribution block. (you can grab one from a td and add it to the backside of the block where there is an oil port)

[TurbododgePirate]

Wow, David Really know his stuff! Thanks for the additions. If this becomes a sticky in the future, do you mind me copying the info?

Thanks everybody for helping fill in the gaps. Hopefully someday soon I'll be able to make a larger more complete post as a permanent sticky. Well.... that and have a running 2.4L car. :)

[David Bohrer]

Guys I must recant something i said. The 2.0 DOHC and the 2.4 DOHC heads are identical!!!!!! The perimiter four BOLTS are shorter because of the block's construction!

I will manually edit my post.

My apologies for the shortsight.

It won't let me edit!!!!! Bah.:faint:

Seven posts to my name and I just branded my self an idiot.


Dave B.

Fixed for you, :nod:

[87csx2.4]

Some good info here fellas,keep it coming hopefully I'll be able to put up some big numbers on the dyno with my combo here soon.Ive got some new things in the works.

[87csx2.4]

Great information!



Do the rods have to be 1989 and up? What about 1987 and up turbo 2 rods? I thought the turbo rods were all the same after 1986.Hey how do you get the pic of your car and sig.in your post's.

[Mario]

Is it cheaper to pick up a 2.4 Longblock and modify it for a turbo set-up or would it be cheaper to purchase an SRT-4 2.4 Longblock. I have been seeing quite a few SRT long blocks going for $2,0000.

[TurbododgePirate]

Mario.
Cheaper depends on what you can get and where you can get it.

If you want to make it a srt motor swap keeping everything stock SRT then that may be a cheaper route. Here are my costs to date:
2.4 block $75
2.0 Head $150
intake manifold (2.4 van) $50
Mexican turbo manifold $170
2.5 turbo rods FREEBIE (Already had them)
Used SRT4 oil pan, pump, pickup and water pump $110
Brand new Holset HY35 turbo $230
_______________________________________________

So thats a grand total of $785 so far. Now, I'll need 4 venolia pistons, rings,machine shop work, head studs, upper and lower gasket sets, main bolts, ARP exhaust studs, and some more minor odds and ends.

But, how will it compare to a stock SRT4 2.4 block??? You decide.

[Clay]

Guys I must recant something i said. The 2.0 DOHC and the 2.4 DOHC heads are identical!!!!!! The perimiter four BOLTS are shorter because of the block's construction!

I will manually edit my post.

My apologies for the shortsight.

It won't let me edit!!!!! Bah.:faint:

Seven posts to my name and I just branded my self an idiot.


Dave B.

Dave,

I can edit your post, just let me know how you want it to read, and Ill adjust it.

clay

[GLHSKEN]

Is it cheaper to pick up a 2.4 Longblock and modify it for a turbo set-up or would it be cheaper to purchase an SRT-4 2.4 Longblock. I have been seeing quite a few SRT long blocks going for $2,0000.

I believe the pistons and rods are pretty cheap.. (comparitively) from dodge..

[GLHS592]

How long would a set of turbo 2 rods last in a high horsepower 2.4 liter?

[TurbododgePirate]

How long would a set of turbo 2 rods last in a high horsepower 2.4 liter?

How high are we talking? Ias I understand it, they should last to 500hp.

[GLHS592]

How high are we talking? Ias I understand it, they should last to 500hp.

Well, I guess I'd better go aftermarket. I was hoping to save a little money since I already have some turbo 2 rods.

[JDAWG]

Just curious as to why use the tensioner package for the PT? There are different ones for differet bodies. Anyone know the differences? I can understand the KJ(Liberty) but what about the other fwd's? Here are the part #'s incase anyone is interested:
FOR RS/RG ORDER 05114068AA.
FOR PT/P5/P2 ORDER 05114069AA.
FOR JR ORDER 05114070AA.
FOR KJ/K1 ORDER 05114071AA.
FOR JA/JX/J2 ORDER 05114072AA.
FOR NS/GS ORDER 05114073AA.

[TurbododgePirate]

Just curious as to why use the tensioner package for the PT? There are different ones for differet bodies. Anyone know the differences? I can understand the KJ(Liberty) but what about the other fwd's? Here are the part #'s incase anyone is interested:
FOR RS/RG ORDER 05114068AA.
FOR PT/P5/P2 ORDER 05114069AA.
FOR JR ORDER 05114070AA.
FOR KJ/K1 ORDER 05114071AA.
FOR JA/JX/J2 ORDER 05114072AA.
FOR NS/GS ORDER 05114073AA.


Why? Beacuse that was what was used by people already, and it was all the info that I had. Thanks for the additional information!!~~Heath

[Frank]

So where is the best place to get an engine assembly?!?

[TurbododgePirate]

Frank, what kind of engien assembly do you want? Do you want a 2.0, 2.4, or 2.2 stroker motor? If you want a whole engine, I would say get a SRT motor from ebay and start there.

Here's Howell automotives list of motors http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=222

~~Heath

[Dave]

I believe the pistons and rods are pretty cheap.. (comparitively) from dodge..

About $250 for the rods and pistons. I know, I came very, very close to buying them until pops called off the project. :(

How much are SRT 4 heads going for these days?

Also is what I hear true? That a stock 2.4 head will indeed flow better than a fully ported Steve Menagon 8v head?

Anyways sounds like the 2.4 swaps are fairly cheap.

What kind of engine managment is everybody running?

[Speedeuphoria]

SDS here

[TurbododgePirate]

megasquirtand spark... although it isn't anywhere near running yet.

[Dave]

Can I just let Cindy handle all that computer bullcrap? Does she make anything like that? I'll have to call her I suppose.

[TurbododgePirate]

Can I just let Cindy handle all that computer bullcrap? Does she make anything like that? I'll have to call her I suppose.


Dave, it really depends on what you want. If you are going to run a distributor off of the cam, that's one thing, you can make a 2.5 or 2.2 computer work.

I like all the options that you get with the megasquirt and spark, so I'm going that route. Complete control designed for this motor.

[Dave]

I'll basically be copying OhioRob's setup. Him and I will both be building it together, so whatever he says works I'll do. I'm just doing my homework to see what kind of setup will suit me best.

[TurbododgePirate]

I'll basically be copying OhioRob's setup. Him and I will both be building it together, so whatever he says works I'll do. I'm just doing my homework to see what kind of setup will suit me best.


That's cool, Rob knows his stuff (Obviously) Hey, any idea what axles he is running? I still need to ge taxles for my setup. ~~H

[Speedeuphoria]

He told me he was running factory axles up until last year and he switched to shortened mini axles.

[GLH-T]

Couple ?'s

Has any one looked at keeping the srt-4 motor and tranny as one unit and swapping it in. Does the tranny have the same mount on the driver side?

Using a mexi manifold, what would be a good turbo to run for 400 ish hp? I was looking at the hy35 but havent read many results.

If the srt tranny swaps in, then the question of axles comes up. Seems like the best combo would be a 568 with a quaife. Using that and the tbi axles, and a good clutch would be the best combo ive seen so far, unless the srt tranny with the LSD bolts in.

[RedDeerGLH]

Couple ?'s

Has any one looked at keeping the srt-4 motor and tranny as one unit and swapping it in. Does the tranny have the same mount on the driver side?

Using a mexi manifold, what would be a good turbo to run for 400 ish hp? I was looking at the hy35 but havent read many results.

If the srt tranny swaps in, then the question of axles comes up. Seems like the best combo would be a 568 with a quaife. Using that and the tbi axles, and a good clutch would be the best combo ive seen so far, unless the srt tranny with the LSD bolts in.

I've been thinking about this for a while now but i won't know until the winter when i get everything for the swap. I plan on using the srt4 trans and if i have to i'm going to get custom axels or get the srt4 ones shortened since i'm putting this into an omni which i'm guessing by your name is what you drive as well. As for a turbo a good ol 50 trim turbo is very well matched for the srt4 motor but if you have deeper pockets the dual ball bearing version of the 50 trim or the gt3071 will get the power you want as well as being streetable the gt3071 being the most streetable. Hope that helps a little.

Jay

[TurbododgePirate]

Couple ?'s

Has any one looked at keeping the srt-4 motor and tranny as one unit and swapping it in. Does the tranny have the same mount on the driver side?

The tranny mount is not the same as the turbododge on the NVT350 or the SRT 5 speed


Using a mexi manifold, what would be a good turbo to run for 400 ish hp? I was looking at the hy35 but havent read many results.

The HY35 should be fine.. good luck finding a mexican manifold. When I found mine 3 mos ago there were only 2 forsale in north america.


If the srt tranny swaps in, then the question of axles comes up. Seems like the best combo would be a 568 with a quaife. Using that and the tbi axles, and a good clutch would be the best combo ive seen so far, unless the srt tranny with the LSD bolts in.

To use the SRT tranny you will have to convert to a hydraulic clutch setup.

The best setup? I am using a 3.55 Neon NVT350 with a OBX diff, TBI axles, and a specially modified SRT4 clutch. :)

Although if I could trade it all for a SRT4 tranny with the quaiffe I would. I just thing the hydraulic clutch setup would be a PITA.

[GLH-T]

The tranny mount is not the same as the turbododge on the NVT350 or the SRT 5 speed



The HY35 should be fine.. good luck finding a mexican manifold. When I found mine 3 mos ago there were only 2 forsale in north america.



To use the SRT tranny you will have to convert to a hydraulic clutch setup.

The best setup? I am using a 3.55 Neon NVT350 with a OBX diff, TBI axles, and a specially modified SRT4 clutch. :)

Although if I could trade it all for a SRT4 tranny with the quaiffe I would. I just thing the hydraulic clutch setup would be a PITA.

Im curious as to how you are going to mount the tranny if the physical mounts on the car are different. Are the regular neon trannys and the srt trannys different? Id think it would be much easier to drop in a srt-4 motor and tranny, and just have to worry about the clutch conversion then using the 568. I am just not familiar as to how the srt tranny mounts to the car. That is what is keeping me from wanting to go that route. Well the 2 things are mounts and what axles to run. Id like to know how far you have gotten on the tranny fitment, and if you are sure the TBI axles will work. If i go the 568 route, the axles, shifter, all that has been done 500 times so we know what works and what doesnt.

Have you test fit the mexi manifold and the hy35 on the motor to check clearances and all of that? I think you have a really good choice on the manifold and turbo. Seems like the best bang for the buck. I have found a hard time even finding someone that knows where to look for a stratus turbo manifold. Any suggestions on where to look for one?

[TurbododgePirate]

Im curious as to how you are going to mount the tranny if the physical mounts on the car are different.

So far I have taken the stock tranny side mount from a NVT350 and cut 1/4" off of the center metal piece on both sides for extra clearance. On the car body I removed everything that I could from the drivers side mount bracket. I have yet to bolt the 2.4 and nvt 350 together to see if the axles will work as planned, and if the tranny will fit. Right now I have about 3/4" of movement in both directions that I can make on the neon mount.


Are the regular neon trannys and the srt trannys different?

Yes. Regular neon NVT350's are cable operated. The SRT4 is hydraulic, and I know the clutches are different because I had to have about 1/4" milled off of my SRT4 clutch to fit inside the NVT350. I believe their overall dimensions and construction are different as well.


Id think it would be much easier to drop in a srt-4 motor and tranny, and just have to worry about the clutch conversion then using the 568.

I agree.



Have you test fit the mexi manifold and the hy35 on the motor to check clearances and all of that?

I have checked it on a head, but not in the car yet. I am working very hard to get the shortblock together ASAP so I can do all of that. I will take pictures of everything.


I have found a hard time even finding someone that knows where to look for a stratus turbo manifold. Any suggestions on where to look for one?

Sure, start out with a wanted post on www.neons.org. I don't know if they are allowing any new mwmbers though, if they are not allowing new members, then let me know and I'll put a post up for you. However, if you ar eusing a 2001 or newer block, you can buy a manifold just like the mexican manifold online somewhere.

~~Heath

[Will Martin]

Sure, start out with a wanted post on www.neons.org.

I'm a member there and although there's a lot of immature people on there, I was fortunate enough to hook up with some cool people and buy my trans, shifter, cables, alternator, and starter from total strangers, and I didn't get ripped off! lol At the time there was a lot of fraud on the site. Check it out, you'll find something.

[Darkapollo]

I have a question, that I didnt see asked but I may have missed it...

I dont know which DOHC head I have, I just know I have one and im 90% sure it is the 2.0.

What do you mean by the bolts are shorter? Shouldnt that be determined by the block and not the head?

[Speedeuphoria]

Yeah the 2.4/2.0 heads are the same
The blocks are different so the 2.0 has 4 shorter bolts
so if you want ARP headstuds for a 2.4 you need to get them for a VW 1.8T motor

[TurbododgePirate]

Yeah the 2.4/2.0 heads are the same
The blocks are different so the 2.0 has 4 shorter bolts
so if you want ARP headstuds for a 2.4 you need to get them for a VW 1.8T motor

Are you sure that it is the blocks that are different? I was told that the head castings are different for the four outermost headbolts. I certainly don't want to order the wrong headbolts.

[TurbododgePirate]

I have a question, that I didnt see asked but I may have missed it...

I dont know which DOHC head I have, I just know I have one and im 90% sure it is the 2.0.

What do you mean by the bolts are shorter? Shouldnt that be determined by the block and not the head?


Do you know what year the head came from, that will give a clue. If you have no idea, look at the exhaust ports, or take a pic of them and we can sort it out.

[Darkapollo]

Well, I'll copy down the casting numbers on the side to see if anyone can ID it off of those. It is just the head because I want to do the 2.5l DOHC hybrid. I'm trying to get all of the info on DOHC that I can get before I tackle this. Even stuff that isnt 100% related, that is why I asked in here. :thumb:

I can tell you the head was in the trunk of a 1g neon, not sure what car it came from since it was in a row of neons, none of wich had engines or heads. It wasnt an R/T neon (no badges), and I would cry if it was an ACR. :(

The 2.0/2.4 heads are the same? also, where would I be able to procure the camshaft main caps? Im trying to avoid dealership parts prices..

Thanks for the info all!

[TurbododgePirate]

Well, I'll copy down the casting numbers on the side to see if anyone can ID it off of those. It is just the head because I want to do the 2.5l DOHC hybrid. I'm trying to get all of the info on DOHC that I can get before I tackle this. Even stuff that isnt 100% related, that is why I asked in here. :thumb:

I can tell you the head was in the trunk of a 1g neon, not sure what car it came from since it was in a row of neons, none of wich had engines or heads. It wasnt an R/T neon (no badges), and I would cry if it was an ACR. :(

The 2.0/2.4 heads are the same? also, where would I be able to procure the camshaft main caps? Im trying to avoid dealership parts prices..

Thanks for the info all!

Well, the exhaust port shape can tell you if it is a 1995-1999 head, or a 2000+ head. As for the cam caps didn't they come with the head? If not you know that you will have to get new caps, then have them line honed..... which will probably be more expensive than buying a complete head.

I started out doing a 2.5 DOHC conversion, and then decided to switch to a full 2.4 setup because of cost and reliability. For a complete budget job, the 2.4 can be had much more easily. Basically buy a 2.4 motor, add SRT4 rods, pistons and bearings, a turbo and turbo manifold, megasquirtNspark it and go.

Just my opinion though :)

[Darkapollo]

Yeah Im aware that I have to get new caps, and no they were not on the head when I picked it up, someone wanted the cams, they might be in the trunk or somewhere near the car, but I didnt see them... Ill get new ones and see how far out of spec they are. If it is with in factory tolerances then Im just going to leave it alone.

Budget isnt really an issue for this car. Im way over my budget as is (ive spent more then just the price of a tank of gas :p ) and so I might as well enjoy it.

The head has to be a 1st gen (95-99) because there weren't any late models around it. FINDING an entire 2.4l engine at that junk yard will be way to hard. Plus I would have to buy rods and pistons anyway, so the cost of the engine swap would negate the money savings.

JUST MY 1/50th of $1... I AM HERE TO LEARN so LEARN ME SOMETHIN GOOD.

[Speedeuphoria]

Are you sure that it is the blocks that are different? I was told that the head castings are different for the four outermost headbolts. I certainly don't want to order the wrong headbolts.


look on neons .org
The 2.4 has all the same length headbolts. There is no arp headstud kit for it(well actually there is now, but on summit it doesn't say what its for, this is the # ARP 141-4204) or use the VW 1.8 20v set ARP 204-4204(same length and pitch bolts)

THE HEADS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME FOR 95-99 2.0/2.4!!!

[Darkapollo]

Well... I suppose I should hit up the junk yard this weekend and pick up a complete 2.4 long block for $65 :thumb: (yeah for harrys u-pull-it sales!)

Is it possable to get an SRT-4 computer and wiring harness to run it instead of an aftermarket unit (i have delt with mega-squirts and as many people swear by them, they are a PIMA)

This is going into a 91 Pdiddy.. er P-Body.

[Speedeuphoria]

the srt4 computer won't run an earlier motor due to the crank trigger being different. For a ghetto setup you could use the factory ecu and trick it(way not worth the time for the lack of proper tunning) the best way would be the factory ecu w/ a cal or a standalone

[Darkapollo]

Thats what i wanted to know. Thanks.

I just dont like stand alones because they are a pain to tune and are usually overly complex to install.

[r00tcause]

So who here is working on an SRT4 TRANSMISSION install on a 2.4 TD? Id just like to see some info coming in on the trans mount, axle, and clearance issues with this trans. I love the super light hydraulic clutch in traffic so unless someone here has a way to convert a 568 to hydraulic we could use some answers. :)

Discuss.

(fyi, I now have a townhouse, and no garage, so I cannot do these things myself or I would!)

[Frank]

Converting a 568 to a hydraulic is cake. I will be doing that on my 2.4L shadow. Of course its a race setup, so the 2pedal wilwood setup is going in with the actuator attached to the case with a small lever arm and a heim joint to pivit the fork for the clutch.


Frank

[r00tcause]

Converting a 568 to a hydraulic is cake. I will be doing that on my 2.4L shadow. Of course its a race setup, so the 2pedal wilwood setup is going in with the actuator attached to the case with a small lever arm and a heim joint to pivit the fork for the clutch.


Frank

Well you are making my day! I love the 5-speed but driving around in traffic here is really tiring! After driving Mike's SRT4 ACR I realized what I was missing all along! The Hydraulic clutch is great! (you can even have a REALLY stiff PP and you hardly feel it!) Pass me some details, I didnt know such conversion existed! (although I certainly figured it was possible!) Hell I can even check it out in person. :)

Do you guys still have shop down there that could swap a motor in when I am ready to do that? I dont even have a driveway so I have to park on the street. I sold my engine lift and stand a few weeks ago. I cant have a car on stands overnight etc so I just cant do those kinds of things.

[r00tcause]

I just looked up wilwoods stuff. I wish I had known that existed before. With there kit it'll be easy! Well hell, a stock srt4 motor with a 568/hydraulic clutch is the way to go then!!

[Darkapollo]

Im going to pick up a complete 2.4 on sunday for $65! woot.

Ill do a write up on how to do the install into a 91 P-Body since there doesnt seem to be a good step-by-step..
Look for it in aug!

[TurboBuggy]

does the non-turbo pt-cruiser engine have the same head and block as the srt-4? I want to build up a srt-4 engine and found some N/A pt-cruiser engines for cheap. I was going to go with a 95-99 stratus block but would rather have an srt-4 block because of the oil-squirters, better coolant flow, and better flowing head

[Frank]

Well you are making my day! I love the 5-speed but driving around in traffic here is really tiring! After driving Mike's SRT4 ACR I realized what I was missing all along! The Hydraulic clutch is great! (you can even have a REALLY stiff PP and you hardly feel it!) Pass me some details, I didnt know such conversion existed! (although I certainly figured it was possible!) Hell I can even check it out in person. :)

Do you guys still have shop down there that could swap a motor in when I am ready to do that? I dont even have a driveway so I have to park on the street. I sold my engine lift and stand a few weeks ago. I cant have a car on stands overnight etc so I just cant do those kinds of things.

My dad sold his shop a few years ago. Squirrel has a real shop still up in Owings, MD. I just have a garage with ALL the need tools, lift, stands, hoist.

I havent built the brake setup yet, but I will.

[Darkapollo]

$65 VERY well spent. Picked up a 2.4 with 35k miles on it! Look for pictures later tonight or tomorrow, so far I have the cam cover off and it isnt even OIL STAINED! We did have a little mishap when pulling it and I now need a new oilfilter mounting cover thinggy.

Im not sure on the year but it does not have plastic intake runners, they are aluminum. It has to be pre-01 because nothing past 2000 will be in the lot unless it is totally stripped for parts.

I am just really confused as to how this thing mounts up since it has a mount on the front and back and nothing on the side. Oh well I guess Ill have to fab up something.

[Speedeuphoria]

look here, as long as its a 95-99 then you need this stratus mount
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114648

[Darkapollo]

cool. that is what I figured I would have to do, but I wasnt 100%.
BTW, I have Pikturs!!

[Captain Chaos]

So after reading these 4 pages am I understanding that I can use an SRT engine? I know the some of the Neon guys shun them because of the crank trigger setup. I could either go standalone or dist off the camshaft and use old school computer cal correct?

[Frank]

Speeduphoria wrote an awesome article for the KC!!! Go here!
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=47


Frank

[ohiorob]

Great article Speeduphoria :thumb: . I learned a few things

[TurboBuggy]

Ok just as another FYI, ive heard that when swapping an SRT-4 engine using the SRT intake manifold the throttle body will interfere with the transmission. This may be with autos only though.

I can confirm however that it does not interfere with an A-520, I just got done mating mine up and it doesnt seem like there will be an issue. I did have to take the throttle body off to mate the trans but then once they were together I was able to put it back on easily.


Also with an SRT-4 to A-520 two bolt holes on the trans dont line up and one bolt hole on the engine doesnt line up. I have an idea for a simple bracket that should work really well though, ill get some pics tomorrow.


Some more info on passenger side engine mounting here (thanks to ohiorob) --> http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18097

[grsmnky81]

ok, so, i have an srt4 2.4 engine trans, intake and exhaust, with the ecu and working on geting a harness. i have the adapter to stick this engine in a neon but will it work in my 88 shadow?? The shadow has a blown engine, popped a head gasket and previous owner drove it till it quit. what am i goin to have to buy to get this in the car??? can i use an automatic behind it too?? automatics are under constant boost under acceleration, no boost loss. interior wise i'd have to get the manual console, and cables for the t850, i have a shifter. or would it be better just to put another 2.2 8v engine back in the car????

[Spycker]

my friend has a 1997 dodge stratus with the 2.4 dohc, his dad wants the car towed away to the junk yard, hmm to make the dohc swap or not

[www.turbogod.com]

I am working on build mounts that can make it easy to install the 2.4 in the l-bodies www.srt4omni.com (http://www.srt4omni.com/) this is all rough draft thrown up quick website. I am to date waiting on the machinest to get the parts cut out so i can weld them up. If interested look for my thread on here i am going to start so i can get feedback good or bad is very needed.. it will have the front mount, left engine mount, bobble strut mount keeping the rod shifter, nd the a555 2 piece carrier bearing bracket.

go to here to comment on my mounting system or ask questions nd i will answer sorta fast.. lol
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?61750-making-mounts-for-2.4-(2002up)-in-an-l-body-with-a555-trans-thoughts&p=852259#post852259