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View Full Version : Looking at an '01 CTD...



DeckSetter
10-28-2007, 03:22 PM
I'm looking at an '01 2500. It's got 200,000 miles, extended cab, short bed, 6spd, gooseneck ball in the bed. Base model, manual windows and locks, rubber floors. It has step bars, but one is rusted clear out (passenger side, can't figure that one out).

Price: $6895

Anything I should be looking for on this truck? What are the problem areas? What kind of mileage could I expect?

It looks like a steal even with the miles. I'd be trading my '01 Dakota quad cab (4.7, 4x4, automatic, power windows/locks/mirrors, infinity sound, rear window defogger/heated mirrors, roll up bed cover). I owe a little over $7100 on it.

I've been looking for a better work vehicle, and the main reason I'd trade for the CTD is fuel mileage. I pull about 15mpg in my Dak with a Superchips tuner running premium fuel. I hear the '01 CTD trucks should get closer to 22. A coworker claims 24-25mpg with his '99 4x4 5spd, but I don't believe much of what he says anyway. I drive 25,000+ miles a year, so I figure I spend $5000 on gas in a year. A little better fuel economy could be the difference between me keeping my turbo van or not, I NEED a more economical work vehicle.


Opinions? Suggestions? Should I really trade for a truck with 200,000 miles?

moparzrule
10-29-2007, 05:14 PM
The mileage isn't a problem on the long block. The problem is the lift pump on those things, and if the lift pump goes it takes out the injection pump. If the lift pump is weak now, it could be hurting the injection pump so even if you replace the lift pump when you get it the injection pump could still go out on you. The fact that it has that many miles though is actually a GOOD thing, not all the lift pumps were defective. You should ask him if the lift pump and/or injection pump has even been changed.

With a 4'' exhaust system and some kind of ECU chip like the EGDE EZ, you will probably get 20-22 MPG.
01' is a good year, should have the 4 wheel disc brakes and it has the NV5600 tranny which is nice but the stock clutch sucks.
Thats a good deal for that price, not sure why it is so cheap. Almost throws up a red flag like they know the injection pump is gonna go soon or something. The injection pump is like 2 grand, the lift pump is like 300 bucks. You should also get an addition fuel pusher pump to help.

DeckSetter
10-29-2007, 07:33 PM
I think I'm going to pass on it, turned out it was 280,000 miles, not just 200,000. I don't think I'd want to try to finance a 280,000 mile truck when I drive 25k+ a year. It's still tempting though...

moparzrule
10-29-2007, 07:55 PM
280K isn't that bad for a cummins. Most last 400-500K.

shadow88
10-29-2007, 08:34 PM
With that much milage, I'd pass on it too. Nothing can be assumed in good working order.

DeckSetter
10-29-2007, 08:38 PM
280K isn't that bad for a cummins. Most last 400-500K.

true, and if I had $5800 (they say that's their bottom dollar on it...) in the bank I would probably jump on it. I just don't want to finance something with that many miles (pulling horse trailers no less), it would probably have over 350k easily by the time I got it paid off (if a bank would even finance a 280k mile pickup truck).

moparzrule
10-29-2007, 10:04 PM
The bank financed 5K on my 94' with 248K miles, and thats 7 years older with almost as many miles! $5800 is dirt cheap for that truck. I paid 9K for mine, I had a trade and some cash. The cummins rams if a 5 speed go for a lot in my area. Auto's, not so much. I'm shocked to see that truck under 10 grand, let alone almost half that. That price is a steal for an 01' HO 6 speed truck.
Shadow88, you are retarded and don't know what you are talking about obviously. A truck with that many miles has had things replaced, probably the clutch has been changed and stuff that normally goes out around 200K miles. So, buying a truck with 150K is worse than buying a truck with 280.
I beat my 94', was bone stock when I got it and it was making 325 RWHP and 750 ft/lbs when it left me and it was running twice as good as when I got it. Started faster, ran smoother, and of course had a little more power hehe.

shadow88
10-29-2007, 10:39 PM
Shadow88, you are retarded and don't know what you are talking about obviously. A truck with that many miles has had things replaced, probably the clutch has been changed and stuff that normally goes out around 200K miles. So, buying a truck with 150K is worse than buying a truck with 280.
I beat my 94', was bone stock when I got it and it was making 325 RWHP and 750 ft/lbs when it left me and it was running twice as good as when I got it. Started faster, ran smoother, and of course had a little more power hehe.

You're not worth a responce.

cordes
10-29-2007, 11:08 PM
The bank financed 5K on my 94' with 248K miles, and thats 7 years older with almost as many miles! $5800 is dirt cheap for that truck. I paid 9K for mine, I had a trade and some cash. The cummins rams if a 5 speed go for a lot in my area. Auto's, not so much. I'm shocked to see that truck under 10 grand, let alone almost half that. That price is a steal for an 01' HO 6 speed truck.
Shadow88, you are retarded and don't know what you are talking about obviously. A truck with that many miles has had things replaced, probably the clutch has been changed and stuff that normally goes out around 200K miles. So, buying a truck with 150K is worse than buying a truck with 280.
I beat my 94', was bone stock when I got it and it was making 325 RWHP and 750 ft/lbs when it left me and it was running twice as good as when I got it. Started faster, ran smoother, and of course had a little more power hehe.

I'm sorry, but it is very rude and immature to call people retarded regardless of what you think of their post. :(

Vigo
10-30-2007, 02:02 AM
engine doesnt make the truck for a daily driver. ive driven a fair number of high mile trucks working in a trans shop, and a 2500 diesel body with 300k on it is just as loose, rattly, and falling apart as a 3.9 1500 body with 300k on it.

moparzrule
10-30-2007, 06:32 AM
engine doesnt make the truck for a daily driver. ive driven a fair number of high mile trucks working in a trans shop, and a 2500 diesel body with 300k on it is just as loose, rattly, and falling apart as a 3.9 1500 body with 300k on it.

Ehhh, wrong. People that drive shop trucks beat the living piss out of them first of all because it's not theirs so they don't care. Seen it a million times. Second of all, a 1500 isn't even a CLOSE comparison whatsoever, and neither is a 2500 gas truck. The trucks with the cummins are built completely different and 3 times more heavy duty. Unless somebody else here had/has a high mileage cummins truck keep what you ''think'' to yourself. I don't have to think, I know.
BTW, there is a million mile club for these trucks you know...I don't think the engine has wheels so the truck did make it :clap:

Cordes- Well I thought saying retarded was a bit nicer than just coming right out and saying idiot or moron. Sorry.

Turbodave
10-30-2007, 05:32 PM
Cordes- Well I thought saying retarded was a bit nicer than just coming right out and saying idiot or moron. Sorry.

None of those are called for, if you don't agree with someone prove your point with factual information rather than name calling.

We are all entitled to opinions and to some a 300k mile truck might seem fine, to others, the worn out rattly interior and general wear may be enough to scare them away.

moparzrule
10-30-2007, 05:51 PM
None of those are called for, if you don't agree with someone prove your point with factual information rather than name calling.

We are all entitled to opinions and to some a 300k mile truck might seem fine, to others, the worn out rattly interior and general wear may be enough to scare them away.


How about, let all the people that have owned a high mileage cummins truck speak. I'm hear, anybody else? My info isn't an opinion, real info from my own experience.
Even my 94' didn't have a rattling interior, an 01' would be nice!. The only things I had to replace were the water pump (20 minutes, $50), the overflow valve (10 minutes, $40), and some U-joints (?, $40-50,). Anymore factual info you want?

Edit- I can see what your opinion is apparently. But like I said, yours is an opinion, I've owned one.
I never had to touch the clutch, because it must have been replaced. There's no way it would have held the abuse I put it through. Never touched the brakes in the 7K miles I had it either, they were new when I bought it too! Like I said, things have been replaced on a higher mileage truck.

Vigo
10-30-2007, 06:35 PM
id like to see anyone here prove that the body and interior parts are different from 1/2 ton to 1 ton or gas to diesel. they are the same cab, dash, door panels, seats etc etc etc, and dont even try to tell me they're subjected to less severe bouncing and movement than a 1/2 ton cuz the opposite is true.

your idea about a really cheap, high miles cummins truck NOT being a cleaned up former beast of burden is possible, but unlikely. if its a nice truck, thats great. but there's nothing about the engine that makes the top half of the truck hold up any better, so 280k is still just as bad or worse on the top half of a 1 ton cummins as it is on a 3.9 1500.

moparzrule
10-30-2007, 07:01 PM
What exactly gets beat up on the body of a high mile truck? Does it rust more because of higher mileage or something? And I've already covered the things that wear out like shocks and stuff. They are more likely to be replaced already on a truck with 280K than on a truck with 150. A truck with 150-200 is about the worst, everything needs replaced at that point. Clutch, shocks, wheel bearings, etc etc.

Oh yeah and your thing about the bouncing, the diesels got ever duty springs that no gasser did and will easily outlast the truck and even the engine.

DeckSetter
10-30-2007, 09:11 PM
dang guys, chill...

I will say that you'd never guess this truck has 280k, I'd say half that would be believable. As far as interior parts and stuff are concerned, that's all in how you take care of your truck. If you beat the crap out of it your truck will fall apart at 100,000 miles. Take good care of it and it might still be good at 400k or more, who knows? This truck looks well cared for.

One of my coworkers went and looked at the thing and fell in love with it, but he can't afford it. They wouldn't take his '99 Durango on trade, I don't know if they'd take my '01 Dak (I bet they would, but who knows). Anyway, he said it had TONS of power and the clutch took a lot of getting used to. Since the previous owner pulled horses with it I'm wondering if he chipped it and put in a heavier clutch. In that case, I bet I could pull 20-22mpg with it. That truck at 20mpg would be a 33% mileage improvement over my Dakota, so I'd use 3/4 the amount of gas. At roughly the same price for diesel and premium (my Dak has a programmer, and sometimes diesel is cheaper around here) I'd spend $3750 on fuel in a year instead of $5000 (roughly what I spent last year).

moparzrule - how long of a duration did you finance on your '94 with 248k? I wouldn't want to go any shorter than 30 months, I'd like to be able to finance 36 months and just try to pay it off in 30 or less. I don't want my payment to go up because I'm sure insurance would go up.

Shoot.... you guys are going to make me go test drive this thing aren't you.........

Aries_Turbo
10-30-2007, 10:16 PM
matt, you better start toning down the attitude pretty quick....

Brian

moparzrule
10-30-2007, 10:31 PM
[QUOTE=DeckSetter;227150]
moparzrule - how long of a duration did you finance on your '94 with 248k? I wouldn't want to go any shorter than 30 months, I'd like to be able to finance 36 months and just try to pay it off in 30 or less. I don't want my payment to go up because I'm sure insurance would go up.
[QUOTE]

30 months, I think I financed like about $5300 or so. Payment was $212 I'm pretty sure I remember that right. Think I had 10% interest, something in that area. I don't think insurance is based anything on what kinda payment you have. They never asked me how much I financed or anything like that. What insurance company do you have?

moparzrule
10-30-2007, 11:01 PM
matt, you better start toning down the attitude pretty quick....

Brian

So I just have to brush the people off that tell me that I don't know that my truck was about to fall apart since it had ''so many miles''? And especially when they have not even owned one of these trucks to boot!
As I recall, I'm not even worth a response though. I'm the only one in this thread thats owned a cummins, but not worth a response.

TurboDave- I did NOT call anybody an idiot or moron, I was only saying I could have but didn't for this very reason. I'm not sure I'm good at expressing what I meant. I am however calling many people ignorant, and no I do not believe everyone is entitled to an opinion either. You yourself think apparently that every high mileage vehicle has a rattling interior. How can you have an opinion on this matter when you don't even know this to be true? Because it isn't!

Decksetter- I truly wish you the best of luck, and I hope you go for it. IMHO, thats too good of a deal to pass up.

Frank
10-31-2007, 06:29 AM
Keep it up Matt and there will be a 3 day vacation... vendor or not. No matter how stupid you think someone is, that is no reason to call them a moron. You know the rules of the board and you have had TWO moderators tell you to tone it down but you blow them off. Not a good idea. So listen to the people who are telling you that you are being rude or not nice... they are right.

For everyone else, keep to the topic at hand. If you have problems, PM me or another Staff member.... don't post it here because that will be off topic.



Frank

moparzrule
10-31-2007, 06:54 AM
But I didn't call them stupid or a moron, I explained that in my last post. I said I could have, but didn't for this very reason!
Edit- OK I looked back and saw that how I posted it looked like I did call them a moron. My apologies, it was not my intent. My intent was to say I could have called them that but didn't. For me, saying someone is retarded isn't name calling, just a kinder way of saying that they are acting dumb or ignorant.

DeckSetter
10-31-2007, 05:52 PM
(((trying to steer back toward topic...)))

I went and drove the truck today. All 281,7xx miles of it.

Truck seems tight, no rattles or shakes. Only thing I didn't like is the 4.10 axle gears with 265 75R16 tires. I'm pricing gears right now, I think if the truck had 3.55's I would have talked money with them today. If it's still there on Saturday I will probably go back.

With those 4.10's it runs 2000rpm at 60mph in 6th gear. I drive a lot of highway, mostly 55mph (that would be 1800-1900rpm) so it wouldn't be too bad. I ended up starting off in 3rd a couple of times and it was fairly comfortable. The truck seems to be completely stock, clutch wasn't heavy at all but felt good.

It's an odd package, manual windows and locks but it had power mirrors? Also has cruise and A/C.

moparzrule
10-31-2007, 06:03 PM
Ahh that does suck. 4:10's are crap, great if all you do is hauling, not so cool for the highway. Should have a Dana 80 rear and 60 front. Probably run you around $400-500 for the gears and another $150 for install kits.
Glad to hear about the lack of rattles and tight steering like mine was :thumb:

BTW, 285 tires fit with no clearance issues. I had 295's on mine, but slight rubbing on the control arm when turned hard left. No rubbing on the body at all.

Aries_Turbo
10-31-2007, 08:00 PM
But I didn't call them stupid or a moron, I explained that in my last post. I said I could have, but didn't for this very reason!
Edit- OK I looked back and saw that how I posted it looked like I did call them a moron. My apologies, it was not my intent. My intent was to say I could have called them that but didn't. For me, saying someone is retarded isn't name calling, just a kinder way of saying that they are acting dumb or ignorant.

i dont care what you consider name calling. we consider calling someone "retarded" calling them a name.

you acted like you knew everything there was to know about buying a cummins dodge when in fact you dont. it wasnt the name calling that was the issue. it was the your attitude that was the problem. you could have just said "here are my reasons for what i think would be a good choice" instead of what you said.

now if its simon talking some nonsense about his van or some other crap, feel free to lay into him. :)

Brian

moparzrule
10-31-2007, 08:41 PM
My apologies for the attitude. People weren't listening to my reasons in the first place, kinda ticked me off. I also never claimed to know everything, but yes I did claim to know more than everyone else here in this thread. And I think that is a fact, proven by my own experiences and now the claims of the thread starter about the truck in question.

Aries_Turbo
11-01-2007, 06:48 PM
no problem dude. :)

Brian

moparzrule
11-01-2007, 07:55 PM
Back to topic here....
Decksetter did you price out the gears and install kits yet? The Dana 80 gears aren't gonna be cheap, thats for sure. Perhaps someone would trade you gears? Have you ever been on TDR? Thats www.Turbodieselregister.com it's the best source for info for these trucks, and they have a classified section as well and you can post up a want to trade ad for gears. You'll still have to buy install kits of course, but your cost is gonna be a lot cheaper! Even if no one wants to trade, sometimes the gears are just on there for sale for a lot cheaper than new.

turbovanmanČ
11-01-2007, 08:04 PM
With those 4.10's it runs 2000rpm at 60mph in 6th gear. I drive a lot of highway, mostly 55mph (that would be 1800-1900rpm) so it wouldn't be too bad. I.

Thats awesome, only 2000 rpm in 6th. I'd be in heaven if my van ran those rpms. For a reference, my brothers 97 K2500 Diesel auto with 4.10's revs at slightly more at 60 mph.




now if its simon talking some nonsense about his van or some other crap, feel free to lay into him. :)

Brian

WTF?????? :confused:

moparzrule
11-01-2007, 08:09 PM
Thats awesome, only 2000 rpm in 6th. I'd be in heaven if my van ran those rpms. For a reference, my brothers 97 K2500 Diesel auto with 4.10's revs at slightly more at 60 mph.



Thats too high of rev's for a cummins! Fuel mileage drops 10% with 4:10 gears over 3:54's.

DeckSetter
11-01-2007, 08:15 PM
Back to topic here....
Decksetter did you price out the gears and install kits yet? The Dana 80 gears aren't gonna be cheap, thats for sure. Perhaps someone would trade you gears? Have you ever been on TDR? Thats www.Turbodieselregister.com it's the best source for info for these trucks, and they have a classified section as well and you can post up a want to trade ad for gears. You'll still have to buy install kits of course, but your cost is gonna be a lot cheaper! Even if no one wants to trade, sometimes the gears are just on there for sale for a lot cheaper than new.


Haven't checked out TDR much, but I keep hearing it's THE place for these trucks. If I get it I will check it out more.

I found Dana 80 gears for $450ish new on some website (can't remember which one). Expensive!!!

I still haven't made my mind up on this thing yet, I may go talk money with them on Saturday if it's still there, then again I might not... I'm still debating whether I'd be better off getting a stock diesel truck or putting a 4BT in an F150 and get a little better mileage than the 3/4 ton. Thing is, if I put a 4BT in a FORD I'd want to keep my Dakota, and I don't need TWO trucks....... If I trade off the Dakota I'd probably keep the minivan and hop it up.

moparzrule
11-01-2007, 08:22 PM
In my area, that truck is easily worth 12-14K, I paid 9K for my 94' with 250K miles! Putting a grand into gears you are still way ahead of the game. Plus, you are probably replacing things that have a good bit of wear on them if the gear oil wasn't changed regularly which is my experience is something thats neglected.
4BT's are cool, but thats a lot of work and it takes a lot of research and money for that kind of project. Plus, I know it's your truck and all, but an F150 isn't really a good choice! Everything about them is too weak. If you hop up the 4BT at all you are gonna be breaking axles, differentials, transfer cases, ETC.

DeckSetter
11-01-2007, 08:42 PM
In my area, that truck is easily worth 12-14K, I paid 9K for my 94' with 250K miles! Putting a grand into gears you are still way ahead of the game. Plus, you are probably replacing things that have a good bit of wear on them if the gear oil wasn't changed regularly which is my experience is something thats neglected.
4BT's are cool, but thats a lot of work and it takes a lot of research and money for that kind of project. Plus, I know it's your truck and all, but an F150 isn't really a good choice! Everything about them is too weak. If you hop up the 4BT at all you are gonna be breaking axles, differentials, transfer cases, ETC.


I think in the long run I'd be better happier with the Dodge...

The 4BT bolts right in to any 80-96 F150 with a 300 I6 though, you just put early Cummins Dodge mounts on top of the factory I6 frame perches and it bolts right in (a lot of the 4BTs bolt right to small block ford transmissions already).

The problem with the 4BT is I'd probably have trouble locating parts and dealing with what part came out of what vehicle until the end of time because I'd be using a truck with an engine from a different manufacturer as my daily driver. With the Dodge everything is how it's supposed to be.

The main thing I'm worried about with the Dodge is the front end. My coworker has a '99 and told me he's had to rebuild the whole front end twice in the past 2 years. Maybe he just didn't install something right, I don't know..... but that gets PRICEY.

Have you had any trouble with your Dana 60 / front suspension?

turbovanmanČ
11-01-2007, 08:46 PM
The front ends are bad on Dodges. The shop next door does at least once a week, :(

moparzrule
11-02-2007, 06:51 AM
When you guys say front end do you mean steering components? If so, 90% of the time it's the trac bar causing the problem. I never had a problem with mine, steering was tight. But I do believe the trac bar was replaced before I got it.
Decksetter if the steering is tight now you more than likely won't have to worry about it like me. But if it ever does start to get wobbly, most guys do a third gen trac bar conversion...see here-
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/191968-3rd-gen-trac-bar.html

DeckSetter
11-02-2007, 06:09 PM
When you guys say front end do you mean steering components? If so, 90% of the time it's the trac bar causing the problem. I never had a problem with mine, steering was tight. But I do believe the trac bar was replaced before I got it.
Decksetter if the steering is tight now you more than likely won't have to worry about it like me. But if it ever does start to get wobbly, most guys do a third gen trac bar conversion...see here-
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/191968-3rd-gen-trac-bar.html


I'm guessing it needs a trac bar then. It seemed to wander a bit, but I wondered if it was just because I haven't driven a manual truck much. Hmmm.....

Maybe that's room to negotiate? I will probably go back tomorrow morning, it was still there today...

moparzrule
11-02-2007, 10:03 PM
Alot of the time it's the tires too. The original 265's on my truck were crap compared to the 295's I put on. It would pull toward every little dip in the road with the 265's.

turbovanmanČ
11-06-2007, 03:22 AM
When you guys say front end do you mean steering components? If so, 90% of the time it's the trac bar causing the problem. I never had a problem with mine, steering was tight. But I do believe the trac bar was replaced before I got it.
Decksetter if the steering is tight now you more than likely won't have to worry about it like me. But if it ever does start to get wobbly, most guys do a third gen trac bar conversion...see here-
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/191968-3rd-gen-trac-bar.html

Yep, track bar, ball joints, tie rods, they love to eat them up. I'll let my buddy know about the 3rd gen track bar swap, although he's been using and aftermarket one for awhile now.

moparzrule
11-06-2007, 06:42 AM
Just remember to grease the front end with every oil change and you'll atleast double the life of everything up there.

ShelbyMopar
11-22-2007, 06:16 PM
My family owned an older Cummins TD, the 12 valve engine. Was a '91 IIRC. 1 ton dually w/ an auto tranny.

Only thing to ever go on that truck was a water pump. It had around 400,000 miles when we sold it. And we used it for hauling gooseneck trailers loaded with horses as well. The truck rode pretty rough, wasn't the comfiest to sit in, but it was reliable as hell and had decent power to boot.

We then went to a '95 7.3 Ford TD, 3/4 ton, auto. Have gone through 1 tranny, 2 fuel pumps, a crank positon sensor, alternator, water pump, 2 idler pulleys... It has 375,000 miles on it now. Overall been a pretty good truck for us though, but she does burn a bit of oil now. Also has been used to tow gooseneck trailers loaded full of horses too.