TIII Valvetrain information

[minigts]

Well I found a local shop that works exclusively on European cars and heads AND they were recommended by a good friend of mine, so the IROC head is being finished as we speak!

ANYWAYS, he asked if I could get some information on the valvetrain, valve length, spring rates and what not. He didn't ask specifically for this information, but he did ask if I could provide the manual for it which I cannot.

EDIT:

Ok, he called and I asked him what he was asking for. He is looking for install valve stem height and install valve spring height. I believe he mentioned he needed the numbers for the intake and exhaust, but either way could someone provide these details?

So if any of you guys/gals out there have some information regarding details of the valvetrain and what not I would appreciate it.

Please don't ask why he is asking for it considering he rebuilds and works on heads for a living. I think overall he just wanted to get the specifics from me if I had access to the information. BTW, they build and rework BMW's, Porches, Audi's and so forth. He was extremely impressed by the intake and exhaust passages on the head and was very impressed overall. Oh and he said the valve seals (I think) either were the same specs or part number used on one of the BMW models they worked on. Probably the specs though.

And another note, the head had a warp in the middle instead of the plugs being bad. They checked everything out and it turns out it was just this .007's difference in the middle vs. the outer part of the deck. So the head should be ready this week and my little IROC will be on it's way back to how it was in "the" day.

[turbovanman²]

All that info is in the TIII section. I'll look thru and post it up later.

I moved this thread over there too, ;)

[minigts]

Thanks for the help and thanks for posting the information when you do!!!

[minigts]

Simon are you still there? ;)

[turbovanman²]

Simon are you still there? ;)

Yeah, I'll try later on tonight, if not, tomorrow.

[Directconnection]

tell the shop worker to look in the AERA books or on his pro-sys. If he doesn't have either, then he's not up to snuff and maybe not up to par, either.

[minigts]

tell the shop worker to look in the AERA books or on his pro-sys. If he doesn't have either, then he's not up to snuff and maybe not up to par, either.

Well I told him I would get the information for him, so I'm going to get specs from Simon, my Canadian brother. ;)

Thanks Simon. :thumb:

[nmw2006]

Hey, since simon seems to be asleep:D

This page has all the specs you will ever need (and then some)

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/22-specs.html

I believe what you want is down near the bottom (in the 3/18/03 update)

Good Luck:thumb:

[minigts]

Hey, since simon seems to be asleep:D

This page has all the specs you will ever need (and then some)

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/22-specs.html

I believe what you want is down near the bottom (in the 3/18/03 update)

Good Luck:thumb:

Thanks for the information!!! The ONLY concern I have is the disclaimer at the top of the page that mentions typos. Should I worry about this or can I trust the accuracy of the updates? Just making sure.

And thanks for the thumb! ;)

[nmw2006]

I have never found any problems with this info, I believe that they are simply covering their arses.:nod: The data seems to be fine, from what I have experienced.

[minigts]

Thanks man and nice avatar, btw. ;)

[turbovanman²]

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/22-specs.html

I

Thats good info, and heres some more, in normal speak, ;)


If you degree the cams-measure at max lift-

Ok, here's the figures I had stored away, not sure if they are the stock ones though.


Intake: 121 ATDC
Exhaust: 104 BTDC


Stock flow numbers-


Lotus 16V 244 cfm 182 cfm 350"

Cam specs-


Intake Valve

Opens(ATDC) 25°
Closes(ABDC) 35°

Exhaust valve

Opens (BBDC) 16°
Closes (ATDC) 7° 30'

Overlap 0 Deg°

Intake Centreline 121° ATDC

Exhaust Centreline 104° BTDC

Intake Durration 190°
Exhaust durration 203° 30'

Spring pressure-


140 @ 1.7" and 275 @ 1.350"

[nmw2006]

Thanks, Linux Rocks, Windows Blows!!!!!!!!!!!:nod:

[minigts]

Thanks for the information Simon and Linux...man! This is good stuff. And just a note about the guy working on it. He owns Memphis Motorwerks who specialize in European cars. When I brought him the head, he did look at it and did some reasearched and realized it was a Lotus designed head. They do a lot of work on Porsches and BMW's mainly. The one guy has an extremely custom built 1973 911 (pretty sure it's a 911 vs. a 930) with a very unique setup EFI system. He has a turbo flat 6, custom intake injector adapters and is running LS-1 injectors with this and a extremely cool custom fuel rail. Running about 7-9 PSI and dyno'ed at about 315. Needless to say the car is tuned and built nicely! :eyebrows:

So I have a lot of confidence in the people doing the work and they are local, so always a positive thing. Not only that, they would have had the head yesterday, but he said I should replace one of the valves that has a nick in the stem, which he's not sure where it came from, factory defect or wear.

Pics to come once it's finished!

[powermaxx]

Not only that, they would have had the head yesterday, but he said I should replace one of the valves that has a nick in the stem, which he's not sure where it came from, factory defect or wear.

Pics to come once it's finished!

So which valve (I or E)? (Not to hijack your thread...) I'm trying to find 1pc exhaust valves (FWDP is unsure about thiers...). These guys may know how/where to find them (if you would be so kind as to ask :D ).

[minigts]

So which valve (I or E)? (Not to hijack your thread...) I'm trying to find 1pc exhaust valves (FWDP is unsure about thiers...). These guys may know how/where to find them (if you would be so kind as to ask :D ).

Can you explain the situation with FWDP? I just ordered mine the other day and it should be arriving Thursday. Maybe I got the last one? It was the exhaust valve, btw. Assuming everything is fine I could just ship you the one they aren't using. I know it's not the best to use a valve that has a potential problem, but if you decide it will work you could have it.

[zin]

So which valve (I or E)? (Not to hijack your thread...) I'm trying to find 1pc exhaust valves (FWDP is unsure about thiers...). These guys may know how/where to find them (if you would be so kind as to ask :D ).

Ferrea (888-733-2505, http://www.ferrea.com ) can do just about anything you need and have some really good materials for the exhaust side of things. I don't think they list specific parts for the TIII, but since you have the specs now, it should be cake, probably expensive cake, but still easy. Manley is another that could help, but I think Ferrea does more of the smaller stuff (Honda, BMW, etc). Worth looking into I'd say.

Mike

[powermaxx]

Can you explain the situation with FWDP? I just ordered mine the other day and it should be arriving Thursday. Maybe I got the last one? It was the exhaust valve, btw. Assuming everything is fine I could just ship you the one they aren't using. I know it's not the best to use a valve that has a potential problem, but if you decide it will work you could have it.

I'm going to be abusing my TIII:evil: . So wanted to make sure the valves are 1pc types. Cindy couldn't get the info from her vendor on the ones she sells so I decided to re-use my old ones even if they didn't have enough margingn (per spec). Good enough for a few races until I get 1pc units.

The FWDP valves are fine but for my level of abuse I didn't feel comfortable is all.

Yes, Ferrea (and others will make just about anything) but thier quote came back way to high for a set. (And I'm not afraid to spend money so they were outrageous!)

If anyone has some used ones I'll take them off your hands.:thumb:

[turbovanman²]

I'm going to be abusing my TIII:evil: . So wanted to make sure the valves are 1pc types. Cindy couldn't get the info from her vendor on the ones she sells so I decided to re-use my old ones even if they didn't have enough margingn (per spec). Good enough for a few races until I get 1pc units.

The FWDP valves are fine but for my level of abuse I didn't feel comfortable is all.

Yes, Ferrea (and others will make just about anything) but thier quote came back way to high for a set. (And I'm not afraid to spend money so they were outrageous!)

If anyone has some used ones I'll take them off your hands.:thumb:

The stockers are good for 9000 rpm, so if your spinning past that, then can we get a :wow1: ;)

[powermaxx]

The stockers are good for 9000 rpm, so if your spinning past that, then can we get a :wow1: ;)

That's why I'll stay stock until I find known good 1pc types. I know the stockers work.

(Got any good used ones???)

[turbovanman²]

That's why I'll stay stock until I find known good 1pc types. I know the stockers work.

(Got any good used ones???)


I have a few sets but I want to keep them for spares, :eyebrows:

I have used used ones, I am using them now but going to switch them out for newer ones, these are ground to max use limit. If your interested in those?

[minigts]

That's why I'll stay stock until I find known good 1pc types. I know the stockers work.

(Got any good used ones???)

I got the valve and it looks like it is a one piece valve. I asked the guy at the shop if it was and he informed me 2 piece valves usually have an area at the top where there is a second piece for wear or something, I think he said. He looked at the valve he replaced and the one I brought him and he said he didn't think it was a 2 piece from what it looked like. There may be a way to tell, but just from what he saw it looked like a one piece, as it did to me. There wasn't a break or any sign from the valve that it was more than one metal.

Here is the head as they were milling it. He wanted to show me the depression or place where the head was leaking coolant and overheating. I'm just glad I made it 5,000+ miles with it in that condition! The final job looks awesome! He did a great job cutting the seats and smoothed the areas around where the valve seats meet with the intake runner. Looks so great and I cannot wait to get the head back complete! Of course, it will be a year before I get everything running.

[turbovanman²]

How did that even seal, :wow1:

[minigts]

I can't remember how much was taken off, but he said they made 7 passes before they got it clean. I think it was like .007 was the total, but man what a difference. I'll post the final pic once I get the head.

[turbovanman²]

I can't remember how much was taken off, but he said they made 7 passes before they got it clean. I think it was like .007 was the total, but man what a difference. I'll post the final pic once I get the head.

Probably more, I think every pass is .002" or more. Can you say, compression? :clap:

[Directconnection]

I can't remember how much was taken off, but he said they made 7 passes before they got it clean. I think it was like .007 was the total, but man what a difference. I'll post the final pic once I get the head.

check your cams in the head to make sure they spin freely without resistance.

When a head is warped, all the cam bores in the head stay in alignment with the deck surface as long as the head is clamped down. In a free state, when the head springs, the cam bores will be out along with the deck. Mill the deck flat, and it won't pull the cam bores back into alignment.

[minigts]

Excellent note and that was tested. I think he had the same concerns, just didn't point that out at the time. :p I'm sure he would have told me if the diagnosis was bad, but everything spins freely. Thanks for mentioning that, too!