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omni_840
09-30-2007, 01:28 PM
Ok So I'm going to start putting my engine together and was wondering if there are any special tools needed for this job? It is a 89 CB with the crank,pistons, rods already installed. I have the FSM but would like some real world expierence recommendations.


Thanks in advance

turbovanmanČ
09-30-2007, 03:35 PM
Just a torque wrench, some ARP Moly lube, liquid teflon sealer, RTV, and some patience, :clap:

raccoon
09-30-2007, 03:58 PM
valve compressor?

is the head built?

omni_840
09-30-2007, 08:07 PM
valve compressor?

is the head built?

The head is already together.

Thanks for the input , I've got all of those tools hopefully I'll find some patience:D

mpgmike
09-30-2007, 08:54 PM
...and a crank pulley puller for the special 5-bolt pattern, and the timing belt tensioning tool.

Mike

Directconnection
09-30-2007, 10:41 PM
Just a torque wrench, some ARP Moly lube, liquid teflon sealer, RTV, and some patience, :clap:


Don't use ARP moly lube or any moly lube UNLESS the components were machined using moly lube on the bolt threads. You will obvertorque the bolt with the moly lube if the shop used a basic 30wt oil or high pressure lube like we use at our shop called CMD#3.

It will make as much of a difference on your rod big ends as if you torqued the bolts 15-20ft lbs more!

turbovanmanČ
10-01-2007, 01:03 AM
Don't use ARP moly lube or any moly lube UNLESS the components were machined using moly lube on the bolt threads. You will obvertorque the bolt with the moly lube if the shop used a basic 30wt oil or high pressure lube like we use at our shop called CMD#3.

It will make as much of a difference on your rod big ends as if you torqued the bolts 15-20ft lbs more!

Sorry, don't agree. I use moly lube on all my engine jobs or head gasket jobs at work, makes for consistent torque readings.

Don't need a tensioner tool either, just tension until you can just turn the belt 90 deg on the longest part and you'll be bang on, :thumb:

Directconnection
10-01-2007, 12:41 PM
Don't care if you don't agree, it's wrong.

I work with this all day.

A fastener is designed to have a certain torque on it to give it a certain clamping force.

Bolt A with cmd#3 or 30wt oil will torque FAR less than the exact same bolt with moly and is not less consistant.

You're housing bores on your rods are torqued to let's say 55ft lbs with cmd, 30wt or whatever other shops use. You use moly lube and the torque is not more like 75 ftlbs. I measure bolt stretch both ways and see this 1st hand. Imagine what the housing bore does being overtorqued by 15-20ftlbs? Imagine what a stock MP headbolt does at 65ftlbs with moly and then the 1/4turn? 85ftlbs and then 1/4 turn.

Only use the moly lube if the part in question was machined with it torqued using the moly lube.

If you install arp BOLT for the head, it's ok to use the moly and torque to their specs.

omni_840
10-01-2007, 01:17 PM
...and a crank pulley puller for the special 5-bolt pattern

Mike

Where can I get this at?


Thanks

Directconnection
10-01-2007, 03:10 PM
Isn't it miller tools that makes alot of tools for various makes and models?

You could do like I did...make your own as well as it's pretty simple.

Turbodave
10-01-2007, 03:37 PM
OTC makes a crank sprocket remover for the 5 bolt pulley's.

However, if the sort block is already together you probably won't need it to istall the sprocket because it would have had to have come off to do the crank.


One thing I didn't see mentioned is anerobic gasket sealer, this is used on the cam caps, front seal to block, rear seal to block and int. shaft seal housing to block, and between the oil pump and the block.

turbovanmanČ
10-01-2007, 06:40 PM
One thing I didn't see mentioned is anerobic gasket sealer, this is used on the cam caps, front seal to block, rear seal to block and int. shaft seal housing to block, and between the oil pump and the block.

Good call, forgot that one, :clap:

omni_840
10-02-2007, 11:16 AM
However, if the sort block is already together you probably won't need it to istall the sprocket because it would have had to have come off to do the crank.




So I don't need it to install the sprocket?


Thanks

Turbodave
10-02-2007, 11:18 AM
No, you can install the sprocket with a long bolt and a washer to pull it down. The stock crank bolt may even work if enough threads grab the crank when you try to start it.

88_pacifica
10-02-2007, 11:21 AM
Edit: Dave beat me... nm