Condenser area mounted radiator

[minigts]

Taking a poll as to who would be interested in having one of these fabricated. The reason I ask is I figure the price would be a little cheaper if a few people ordered one. The main reason I'm replacing mine is because I'm tired of having like two inches to do ANYTHING on the front of my car, not to mention I'd like to use my factory size oil filter.

I'm looking to get a 20"x14"x1.5" radiator made to fit. This will fit under the radiator support with the mounting studs at the bottom and an area on the top that will allow for just about any kind of mounting necessary to secure the top. I'm also having the guy weld the 90 degree fill neck on it and a 5/8" heater return inlet along with the factory inlets and outlets at the top and bottom.

For anyone running the older style water pump with the one inlet and outlet, this would be an easy replacement from the stock radiator. For anyone else using the newer style pump, a block off or cap would be necessary.

It will be a 2 core solid aluminum radiator with the above dimensions, factory inlets and outlets and the 5/8" heater return inlet.

Anyways, thought I would inquire as to who would be interested in such. I'm probably going to have it done here in about a week, so pics will be up shortly thereafter.

[zin]

What cost are you looking at right now (a one off)? And which body are you making it to fit?

[minigts]

Right now, just one is $350 and it will be made to fit my Charger, so Omni and Chargers. But the design will really be made to fit where the condenser is. For larger cars like the Daytona, I'm sure the fit would be fine to replace the factory one. The two things I want out of this thing is get rid of the RIDICULOUSLY long hose that extends from the pump to the heater core, which on my car is on the driver's side. The other is to give myself and the motor more room.

I'm also making this the dimensions I am because I will have a FMIC instead of the factory one. This one when installed will leave about 3.5" for the IC plumbing.

It's more than I want to pay, but for what I want to do I don't have any other choice. I'm sure the price would be reasonable if there were more in the order, but probably not much less than about $300. I'd love to be able to do this myself, but no time or talent to do it! hehe

[turbovanman²]

I've moved this to groupl buys.

[Turbodave]

Right now, just one is $350 and it will be made to fit my Charger, so Omni and Chargers. But the design will really be made to fit where the condenser is. For larger cars like the Daytona, I'm sure the fit would be fine to replace the factory one. The two things I want out of this thing is get rid of the RIDICULOUSLY long hose that extends from the pump to the heater core, which on my car is on the driver's side. The other is to give myself and the motor more room.



$350 seems like a reasonable price for a custom made piece.

While it sounds great for your Charger there are a couple things to consider. On an Omni there is very little room between the radiator and grill, so moving the radiator forward means less room for an intercooler. Most guys I've seen with big intercoolers on Omnis get rid of the A/C to fit them.

The coolant return going into the radiator was an L-body only thing, all the other models had the return on the bottom of the water pump. For someone that has a Daytona they would probably want to have the tank made without the extra heater hose fitting unless they were trying to shorten the hose like you are.

Definately want to see pics when you get one done, this might be a good part to put on my Rampage, I would love a few more inches of room underhood.

[minigts]

The coolant return going into the radiator was an L-body only thing, all the other models had the return on the bottom of the water pump. For someone that has a Daytona they would probably want to have the tank made without the extra heater hose fitting unless they were trying to shorten the hose like you are.


Thanks for the support Dave. :thumb:

And that is something I have been meaning to ask. WHY did they do this? I mean seriously, why would you run a heater hose ALL the way from the pump at the bottom to a place at the top on the DRIVER'S side? Is this just something I'M dealing with because of where mine was or were the heater cores on the passenger side for cars with this pump from the factory?

[Turbodave]

Thanks for the support Dave. :thumb:

And that is something I have been meaning to ask. WHY did they do this? I mean seriously, why would you run a heater hose ALL the way from the pump at the bottom to a place at the top on the DRIVER'S side? Is this just something I'M dealing with because of where mine was or were the heater cores on the passenger side for cars with this pump from the factory?

Heater cores are all on the driver side so all the non L-body's got a bunch of hose going to the water pump inlet from the heater core. Not sure why they designed it like this, but it's the way they all are.

[turbovanman²]

I thought the heater hose nipple was AT the bottom of the tank, it was on the L body I just worked on. I think they did it due to lack of room at the front of the engine, its tight there and having another hose run to the waterpump is another failure point.

[minigts]

I thought the heater hose nipple was AT the bottom of the tank, it was on the L body I just worked on. I think they did it due to lack of room at the front of the engine, its tight there and having another hose run to the waterpump is another failure point.

You're right about the return line, however, my design with this guy would have it a little higher, almost midpoint of the radiator. Given where the heater core is, there isn't a good way around the placement of the heater hose. HOWEVER, it is, IMO, better than having it run from the pump to the heater core inlet.

So I see it as removing a lot of unnecessary heater line and cleaning things up a bit. :)

[90Dodgevnt]

Keep us updated.:dancingbana:


I am interested, depending how the 1st one turns out, etc.

Mike

[minigts]

I'll have an estimate on the radiator for multiple orders this afternoon. Not sure where the break will be, but I'm thinking no better than $250. Which, if you figure the cost of a replacement one is about $150 or thereabouts and this will be aluminum. So, I'm thinking if he can get it around that price range, it will be a good deal for anyone interested.

More to come this afternoon!

[slasky]

It is a good price. I paid $400 to have a stock l body recored with a shortened high quality truck core. Mine was brass, which cools better than aluminum but it is heavier.

[minigts]

Well it wasn't as much as I was thinking, 10% off the $350 price for like 10 orders. I think he would do $300 flat for 10 or more, but it would be specific to the L bodies more or less. He is however going to do a thicker core with a less wide base, so 17"x2.5-3"x14".

So if anyone is interested $300-ish if we can get 10 ordered. I'll have full specs and dimensions by the end of this week and post exactly where everything will be. I see this thread fading fast though... :bolt:

[90Dodgevnt]

I am still interested, but I'd have to see a final version/full mock up to commit.

[Turbodave]

I've got a few other projects that need attention before the Rampage, so while I think a new radiator for it would be nice, I can't justify getting one right now when I don't even know what engine I'm going to put in it yet.

[minigts]

I am still interested, but I'd have to see a final version/full mock up to commit.

Yeah I see how it is. After I get thrown to the wolves and you see if I make it out alive!!!! :D No, I understand. The main purpose was trying to get a discount for myself too, but it's hard to want to do something so specific without knowing the final outcome.

http://www.fsrradiator.com/ This is the company that does it. They do great work here in Memphis, and I mean great work. They have lots of examples of what they do in their waiting area and very clean on the builds. They use a TIG welder for most of their work and each radiator has a one year warranty against defects.

I do not work for them, will not in any way make any money if any of you decide to order one. I was thinking it would be cost effective for all of us to join in and order some, although $35-50 isn't that much of a savings anyways, so that's why I was joking up top. ;)

[minigts]

Here is conceptually what it will look like, although you have to imagine the box as the radiator and it sitting in just a LITTLE bit more. Dimensions after I did some test fitting are as follows:

19"x14"x2.5"

The max thickness before it starts to stick outside the lip of the radiator support is 2.5", but that is cutting it close. I may have to make some minor adjustments to the lower front support area, but shouldn't be an issue.

The height is REALLY cutting it close, as the bolts holding the hood latch are too long. Going to have to use some shorter bolts or just cut these down a bit.

The length is fine and really could be bigger, but it's not necessary.

I have plans to cut out the metal in front of the alternator, which as I see it would now allow for an NPR IC to just drop right in without ANY adjustments, but this is speculation as I haven't done it yet. And I know what you're thinking, the metal in front of the alternator is there for a reason, but my plan for that is to make a door or plate that is removable. This will make it a LOT easier to work on the Alt tensioner. Seems like it would be a lot of work for a little reward, but to me it's worth it. By the time it's all said and done, I plan on making some descent mods to the front end of the car.

Going to the shop tomorrow, so more to come hopefully this weekend. :D

[zin]

I have plans to cut out the metal in front of the alternator,... This will make it a LOT easier to work on the Alt tensioner. Seems like it would be a lot of work for a little reward, but to me it's worth it.:D

I for one am with you on this one, ever since changing the belt on my Mom's 84 Omni 024! It actually factored in on my decision to buy the Omni, OK it wasn't a big factor, but just the fact that it was a consideration on whether to buy a car or not really says something! What the hell were those engineers thinking anyway?! Right up there with the PS if you ask me!

Mike

[rbryant]

This sounds nice and will solve some of the problems of mounting aftermarket rads.

For people that don't mind the challenge there are several scirocco style radiators on summit/jegs for under $250 that are about the same dimensions.

If I can't find a way to fit the intake on my SRT4 swap past my big radiator I might also have to switch to this style rad.

-Rich

[minigts]

I should have taken another picture, but the radiator you see in the picture has a place where the black piece on the alternator was leaning against the tank and made a small hole. Not to mention I had to re-route the wireThis due to the extremely tight clearance between the radiator and the alternator. Yet another reason to move things around. Just going to move the radiator to test fit this thing caused the leak to open again. But it's amazing how well silicone works. :thumb:

One other thing I think I forgot to mention is this will not in any way hit the factory IC. So this can be installed and still clear the IC with about 1/4". As soon as I figure the font of the car out, in will go a nice LARGE FMIC. :D

[90Dodgevnt]

I had the Scirocco radiator (AFC-80104N in the Summit catalog) with the dual fan setup and it was the biggest waste of money and didn't cool worth a damn.

To get it to fit I had to cut the hell out of the front core support area and chop the radiator pegs from the frame to get it to mount correctly. (This was for a FMIC Spearco setup). Not only did it not cool (radiator surface area was too small/thick...12x22x3) the fans always ran (and were noisy as hell), and this was without A/C. Part of the issues was building a shroud for the 2+ inch gap to the top of the header panel, and with the bottom 1/3 covered by a FMIC, so I just scrapped it and had a cusom one built.

I know of a at least 1 that is using this setup and someone else that is using the setup for a current project. Take it from someone that wasted $500+ with the radiator/fans and customs hoses


Run away! Run away!


Mike




This sounds nice and will solve some of the problems of mounting aftermarket rads.

For people that don't mind the challenge there are several scirocco style radiators on summit/jegs for under $250 that are about the same dimensions.

If I can't find a way to fit the intake on my SRT4 swap past my big radiator I might also have to switch to this style rad.

-Rich

[rbryant]

I had the Scirocco radiator (AFC-80104N in the Summit catalog) with the dual fan setup and it was the biggest waste of money and didn't cool worth a damn.

To get it to fit I had to cut the hell out of the front core support area and chop the radiator pegs from the frame to get it to mount correctly. (This was for a FMIC Spearco setup). Not only did it not cool (radiator surface area was too small/thick...12x22x3) the fans always ran (and were noisy as hell), and this was without A/C. Part of the issues was building a shroud for the 2+ inch gap to the top of the header panel, and with the bottom 1/3 covered by a FMIC, so I just scrapped it and had a cusom one built.

I know of a at least 1 that is using this setup and someone else that is using the setup for a current project. Take it from someone that wasted $500+ with the radiator/fans and customs hoses


Run away! Run away!


Mike


Thanks for the feedback. It is good to hear from people who have actually tried things!

I considered either the afco or the thicker griffin but figured it wouldn't cool my car with AC in the Phoenix desert where I live so I have a custom Ron Davis Radiator made. It looks like you are from Austin so you share my pain. People in the northeast can run a tiny little radiator and have no problems but in the southwest we need something serious or we overheat.

I am building an intake with a super short runner for the SRT4 swap so hopefully I can keep it for the 16v but it will be really tight and isn't anywhere near a dropin radiator and is tight even with the 8v engine.

-Rich

[90Dodgevnt]

Life without A/C in Austin stinks. I can't imagine AZ where it's 100+ on a cool day;)

The radiator I had made was right around 14x20x3 or a 15x20x3 (I don't 100%remember w/o looking at drawings which are at home) and it turned out ok, but a few errors were made in the build phase that I have to address before it's all back together.

(A) The radiator cap/neck was not taken into consideration by the builder. He figured max height was w/o the neck/cap, and it added another 1/2 inch. It's taps the hood insulation. :confused:
When I get the neck redone, it'll be similar to a I *think* an 87 CSX...

(B) The tanks were bigger then I wanted. I would like to (hopefully) get the passenger side tank tapered a bit, to help with clearance issues with the intercooler pipes or just have different tanks put on. I’ll drop it off tomorrow to see what can be done

(C) They forgot a drain---- :banghead:
That will be added if the tanks can be resized, etc

(D) I ordered the wrong size fan. It works, but watch your fingers when it's running :thumb: Ordered a 15 inch fan by mistake…oops.

The radiator cools like a dream, even overcools….but it’s miles ahead of the factory stuff VNT radiator that I had. Just wish it hadn't been such a rush job as the mistakes, for the most part, could've been avoided.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/radiatorandfan.jpg

Mike

[minigts]

Life without A/C in Austin stinks. I can't imagine AZ where it's 100+ on a cool day;)

The radiator I had made was right around 14x20x3 or a 15x20x3 (I don't 100%remember w/o looking at drawings which are at home) and it turned out ok, but a few errors were made in the build phase that I have to address before it's all back together.

(A) The radiator cap/neck was not taken into consideration by the builder. He figured max height was w/o the neck/cap, and it added another 1/2 inch. It's taps the hood insulation. :confused:
When I get the neck redone, it'll be similar to a I *think* an 87 CSX...

(B) The tanks were bigger then I wanted. I would like to (hopefully) get the passenger side tank tapered a bit, to help with clearance issues with the intercooler pipes or just have different tanks put on. I’ll drop it off tomorrow to see what can be done

(C) They forgot a drain---- :banghead:
That will be added if the tanks can be resized, etc

(D) I ordered the wrong size fan. It works, but watch your fingers when it's running :thumb: Ordered a 15 inch fan by mistake…oops.

The radiator cools like a dream, even overcools….but it’s miles ahead of the factory stuff VNT radiator that I had. Just wish it hadn't been such a rush job as the mistakes, for the most part, could've been avoided.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/90dodgevnt/radiatorandfan.jpg

Mike

Man, Mike WOW! Excellent things to think about and thankfully I did! :D

I stressed the overall height had to be 14" MAX and preferred a width no greater than 19-20" as I have a good bit of room to give on the width. Also stressed the width to be no greater than 2.5" as this would push the radiator out from under the support, which is why I'm moving it there in the first place!

The box I made in the picture above has places where I drew where the fill neck, inlet, outlet, heater return and drain---- would be. He and I also discussed the mounting studs for top and bottom and came up with a "solution". Plans are to have 2 studs at the bottom 4" from either side and a 1/2" flat l-shaped plate at the top that will stick out 1/4" from the edge of the radiator. This will allow the radiator to sit under the rad. support and allow to use the existing rad. support to secure it at the top.

I inquired about the block off for the pump outlet to the heater return and that isn't a problem. Dorman makes a rubber-type cover that will cap that off and allow me to use the original return inlet there previously on the TI radiator.

The mounting studs at the bottom SHOULD allow for anyone interested to mount the radiator where the condenser was and clear the front motor mount welding. It would also, in some fabricated way allow those who would like to just replace the existing radiator in the factory location and be able to use some type of adapter plate. Like a flat bar with holes for the custom radiator to mount and then studs on the ends that mount where the factory radiator mounts are, if that makes sense.:confused:

In my quick thinking, I think something could be made. At any rate, he has the specs and hopefully will have something this weekend so I can replace my existing one. As soon as I get it, pics will be posted!

[90Dodgevnt]

Yap, keep me posted.

Depending on what I can do with getting the fixes made to the current radiator, I may buy one if not two. Hell, I got a 2nd Shadow that would love and intercooler..:thumb:

[minigts]

Well I submitted the information/design on Monday and they had it ready today!!! I was more than excited to get the call. Did a great job, in my opinion, and I can't wait to get this thing in and confirm everything fits right!!

One of the things I asked for was the tab you see in the 4th picture. This will allow me to mount the radiator at the top with bolts and to place a rubber spacer between the mounting tab and the factory radiator support.

The last picture is of the mounting tabs which are spaced 4 inches from the ends. This will not be in the way of the front motor mount, if you are wondering or were curious.

Please enjoy. :thumb:

[Dez]

Looks very nice, and the quality of the weld are superve.

[MiniMopar]

And that is something I have been meaning to ask. WHY did they do this? I mean seriously, why would you run a heater hose ALL the way from the pump at the bottom to a place at the top on the DRIVER'S side? Is this just something I'M dealing with because of where mine was or were the heater cores on the passenger side for cars with this pump from the factory?

Perhaps the engine warms up faster with less coolant circulating before the thermostat opens.

[90Dodgevnt]

Very nice. :thumb:

What was the final cost?

[minigts]

Well with tax it was $380, but we have a 10% tax rate here. I think if any of you were to order anything out of state, it wouldn't be as much. HOWEVER, without tax and what he did it was WELL worth it, for me. As I mentioned, if at least 10 of you were interested it would be about $300-315 plus shipping so about $350. Wasn't thrilled about the small discount, but the work is, again in my opinion, well done and for what I want out of it.

This is my justification for spending the money. ;) I've had this car for about 16 years and always wanted certain things out of it. The more I work on it, the more I realize what should have been done and what I want to do. I can't even go into my interior and how I want to redesign it at this point, but nevertheless it will be a $1000 interior when I am finished and that ONLY includes the interior pieces, not to mention the seat covers.

Point being, the radiator cost me $380 tax included which is about $200 more than what it cost to have a factory one that just bolts in and works just the same, but this is my custom car and I want it to look as it would if I were going to build it from scratch, because I am.

Having said that, if anyone were to state their view on whether it was wasted money or spending more than it's worth, I would encourage their logic of those who could better spend their money on speed and performance. In some ways I would agree, but for me I wanted this and in some ways needed this for myself and my 16+ old project car. :D So I won't get angry or argue if some of you feel it wasn't worth it because in some manner I would agree. But it runs along the same lines as those who spend thousands powdercoating parts not seen or sound systems that will cause hearing loss. We spend where our feelings drive us, whether they are effective or a fa scad.

[boost geek]

Perhaps the engine warms up faster with less coolant circulating before the thermostat opens.

I had 2 L bodies, both had the heater core hose on the rad, but both cars had lousy heat, barely any in winter. Both cars got the later pump housing with the nipple, and heating became much better. I think the coolant circulates quicker through the pump setup.

[MiniMopar]

I had 2 L bodies, both had the heater core hose on the rad, but both cars had lousy heat, barely any in winter. Both cars got the later pump housing with the nipple, and heating became much better. I think the coolant circulates quicker through the pump setup.

Makes sense, even if the flow is the same. If you think about it, the motor has to heat up all the coolant in the left radiator end tank and the lower hose, instead of just what's in the head/block and core.

[minigts]

Sweet interior conversion, btw! Man, I was trying to figure out what car that was in. Clicked on the pic and it all made sense.

[Turbodave]

That radiator looks great, and I think even without the discount you got an awesome price for something custom made to your specifications.

[SVO Blake]

Trotter...

Just checking out the site. Pretty cool site...

I need to come to Memphis and check your car out as well as Tom's.

Blake

[GLHS592]

I guess I missed it. Where did you get this radiator built? I've been thinking about having one built for my truck.

[minigts]

I guess I missed it. Where did you get this radiator built? I've been thinking about having one built for my truck.

Four Seasons Radiator in Memphis on Thomas Street. You remember how I told you I wanted to do the radiator under the support for extra room? Finally did it.

Actually pretty reasonable overall and very good work. Still got to get it in and make sure there aren't any clearance issues and everything is working fine, but I'm not too worried. He asked me to build the cardboard version, as I did to check the dimensions. Assuming the variance is within 1/16" of an inch, which it is, everything should just bolt right up.

[zin]

Wow, that's one nice radiator! And the price was VERY fair for a custom made piece! If I wasn't dead set on retaining my A/C I'd have one! But like most things, I insist on doing the hard way! :confused: That's just my way!:D

[GLHS592]

Four Seasons Radiator in Memphis on Thomas Street. You remember how I told you I wanted to do the radiator under the support for extra room? Finally did it.

Yeah, I remember. Will it leave you enough room for a front mount intercooler?

[minigts]

Thanks for the kind words Zin. :thumb:

Kevin, this will leave all kinds of room for the FMIC, maybe more after I correct the latch support or should I say, re-engineer it. My goal is to design the front end support area so I can install/remove all these components, work on the alternator and have a professional clean look all at once. The next step to do this is cut out the area in front of the alternator and make a removable cover. After that, I need to custom make a hood catch piece that locks in with the hood latch only using the two bolts, maybe using the other two for extra support. This way I could very easily drop in an NPR and not have any clearance issues.

And as long as it will take me, it really shouldn't take that much to do. As I do it, I'll take pictures, document and share with everyone.

I'm putting the radiator in today so I will have some final pics of the radiator installed by this evening.

[SVO Blake]

Jon, you car is slow....

Just Kidding...that's a nice radiator

I'd hate to see what would happen if I lived there with you and Tom. We all would have high HP monsters.

[minigts]

Blake don't make me school your SVO. ;-)

Ok, so the good and the bad. The good news is it fits like a dream. Clearance is fine and it really sits flush like it should AND looks awesome installed (pictures to come).

The bad, the extra length of 1" he added and where I have the peg mounts puts it too close to the factory IC so the factory IC can't sit where it is. Ok, so that may sound bad, but this just means I HAVE to get a FMIC. ;)

Wife wasn't too thrilled about spending the money, but she says you have to. I love my wife. :D

So now the question is, should I go with something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230178616295&rd=1
Found this on eBay this morning. Total price is $200, but the size is HUGE. I'd have to make a few adjustments to the front end area, but it will fit. I'll just have to figure out how to mount it up. Any comments or suggestions? BTW, an NPR IC of about the same size is going for about the same and this is a little smaller so it should fit better.

[SVO Blake]

Jon,

I have been considering that intercooler as well for my SVO. I am going to get a 3 inch downpipe, t3/t4 turbo and a FMIC.

I have no doubt you will beat me down right now...I am basically bone stock. ;)

BUT....as Tom would say...at least I am driving the correct set of wheels. :D

You still owe me pics of your rides....

[GLHS592]

What kind of reviews are the SVO guys giving that intercooler? $200 doesn't sound bad at all.

[SVO Blake]

There are quite a few SVO guys who use the NPR intercooler, the volvo intercooler, and Stinger and Forced4 makes a custom intercooler for the SVO. There are also a few that have used this one that is on ebay with no problems. For the price, it looks like a good deal. The stock intercooler is not very efficient, so some people use the Thunderbird turbocoupe intercooler as well.

[minigts]

Jon,

I have been considering that intercooler as well for my SVO. I am going to get a 3 inch downpipe, t3/t4 turbo and a FMIC.

I have no doubt you will beat me down right now...I am basically bone stock. ;)

BUT....as Tom would say...at least I am driving the correct set of wheels. :D

You still owe me pics of your rides....

You'll get pics soon enough, probably when I get the IC purchased and installed. I think this IC I mentioned above is 2.5" in/outlets, but with a 52mm TB that's not a problem. I mean 2.5" is about 62mm so even if I did a conversion to the Jeep TB (not sure the engine size, 3.7L maybe?) I would still be fine and not bottlenecking at the IC.

Almost finished, so I should have pictures by 5pm or earlier.

[GLHS592]

I think this IC I mentioned above is 2.5" in/outlets, but with a 52mm TB that's not a problem. I mean 2.5" is about 62mm so even if I did a conversion to the Jeep TB (not sure the engine size, 3.7L maybe?) I would still be fine and not bottlenecking at the IC.

Jon, I'm using 2.5" pipe with my 52 mm throttle body with no problems. My intercooler has 2.5" in/outlets too.

[minigts]

Ok, here are some pictures, but not the best. Hard to see how much room is saved, but needless to say, I can now use the regular oil filter and overall have more room.

[SVO Blake]

Very nice pics Jon.... I like the looks of the engiine bay. Those Ground Control CC plates look good. I have Tom's old Hotchkis CC plates on the SVO.

Is that the same Shelby Charger you had back in the day? Wasn't it maroon? I think I remember Tom telling me you had it painted. Or this another one?

I think I want to paint the SVO black. I really wanted a black SVO....

[minigts]

Yeah I've had the plates for about 6 years? I put them on a while back, but didn't have the coil overs till about 2-3 years ago.

Just painted the engine bay in the last year. I'm going to do a little better job with the color and painting when I get it painted again. Also going to do a better job on the wiring. Just redid everything, but STILL need to make some changes.

Thanks Blake and come down anytime. Tom and I both have places for you when you get here. :thumb:

[badandy]

Hey?????

I know that car/engine bay! hehehe...:D

Been pulled over lately:p

[minigts]

Hey?????

I know that car/engine bay! hehehe...:D

Been pulled over lately:p

lol More than you know. Got pulled over last weekend and TWO times after Turbopalooza. When's the next event? I can't wait to get pulled over again for absolutely NOTHING. ;-)

[johnl]

Ok, here are some pictures, but not the best. Hard to see how much room is saved, but needless to say, I can now use the regular oil filter and overall have more room.

Looks really good. Do you have pics of how the FMIC & piping works with it?

[minigts]

Looks really good. Do you have pics of how the FMIC & piping works with it?

Man, I'm STILL working on it. I have a tight fit with the battery and the neck of the radiator, so the bend from the IC to the TB is tricky. The biggest problem I have is no one in town has 3" pipe and a bender willing to do it. I may end up having to fabricate something to get it to work. For the time being I am bypassing the IC and putting around wherever I go. :-|