cranks shot..2.5 TIII running stage FWD stage 3?

[WOP'R]

My machinest has gott'n back to me and has told me my crank is shot as it has wear on the "walls". First what would cause this? According to him, he thinks it has something todo with the tranny.

Secondly! finding a forged crank locally is a pain (cant find them, and if you do they cost an arm and a leg) But a 2.5 crank is easy as pie to find.

so, what if i had a 2.5 TIII running FWD stage 3 cal?? would this simply not work?

[iTurbo]

I had the same thing happen last week when I dropped off my TIII engine at the machine shop. The machinist immediately removed the #3 main cap and found my crank was shot because the thrust surface (aka wall) was worn too far and the crank had ~.050" end play! Could possibly be from a strong pressure plate, high miles, or abusive driving. I'm going 2.5L now too, lucked out and found one for cheap in the For Sale forum.

See also
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17495

[turbovanman²]

From what I read from Cliff, the stock TIII has too much timing, with some boost and the 2.5L, you pop head gaskets. I believe the S3 could have more but Cindy would know that one.

[zin]

It is possible to save the crank by welding up the thrust faces and re-grinding it to spec. It would likely wear better too because the filler rod would likely be harder than the base metal. Of course, that all costs $$, so if cost is the overriding factor, the 2.5 will be going in I'm sure. It does sound like a custom cal would be in order though, that or run a close to stock cal that wouldn't be so edgy. That's my .02, of course I've found that I have a lot of spare change lately so...

Mike

[86Shelby]

A 2.2 cast crank kit lists around $200 at most auto parts stores. And those include generally main bearings.

You would have to do some type of custom cal for it to live as a 2.5L.

[WOP'R]

found a crank localy..i think, this new crank has a casting # 5 AU written on it