Assembling braided hose and AN fittings is a pain...

[Bubba]

So I purchased my braided hose and AN fittings for my TU billet fuel rail. Anyone have any helpful hints on trying to get this stuff installed?

[JeremyL]

Lots of patience.

Last time I did AN fittings was on my old 64 Galaxie. When cutting the hose be sure to wrap the area with a couple wraps of good tape to keep it from fraying. I also put a wrap of tape on there when putting the fitting on, and then pulled the tape out after I got it slid in there.

[turboking]

place masking tape around end, than lube it with engine assembly lube, than start screwing

[Bubba]

Thanks for the suggestions guys!



Lots of patience.

Last time I did AN fittings was on my old 64 Galaxie. When cutting the hose be sure to wrap the area with a couple wraps of good tape to keep it from fraying. I also put a wrap of tape on there when putting the fitting on, and then pulled the tape out after I got it slid in there.

Yup, I use to have a 63 1/2 Galaxie 2-door fastback, man do I miss that car.

[iTurbo]

I used Summit brand AN fittings and braided hose on my Spirit R/T. I used electrical tape and wrapped the hose tightly, then used a Dremel tool outfitted with a cutoff wheel to cut the hose right in the middle of the tape. Then slide the tape off carefully to prevent fraying. Then insert the freshly cut end into the fitting and push it on until it bottoms out. Personally I didn't want remnants of elecctrical tape inside the fitting so I removed it after cutting. Then the male threaded portion of the fitting pushes into the end (tight!) until you can start to thread it in. It was a pain at first, but once you get the hang of it it's actually pretty fool proof.

[2.216VTurbo]

+1 on the masking tape and the Dremel, best way to go IMO. Recently, I switched to using the 'lightweight' braded hose. Instead of the stainless braid that likes to make you bleed whenever it bites you, the braids are a black polyester type stuff. It MUCH easier to work with, MUCH lighter and still NHRA legal:thumb:

[zin]

I used Summit brand AN fittings and braided hose on my Spirit R/T. I used electrical tape and wrapped the hose tightly, then used a Dremel tool outfitted with a cutoff wheel to cut the hose right in the middle of the tape. Then slide the tape off carefully to prevent fraying. Then insert the freshly cut end into the fitting and push it on until it bottoms out. Personally I didn't want remnants of electrical tape inside the fitting so I removed it after cutting. Then the male threaded portion of the fitting pushes into the end (tight!) until you can start to thread it in. It was a pain at first, but once you get the hang of it it's actually pretty fool proof.

This is pretty much they way I recommended doing it when I managed the Earl's store in Lawndale, CA. The only other tricks I'd suggest is to lube the threads and inside of the hose with the hose assembly lube (or motor oil if you have to), and to start the hose/socket assembly onto the nipple by holding the hose and turning it rather than trying to start with the socket 1st. The reason being that the hose can (and will) start to work it's way out (especially on the cutter-type hose ends), this way you ensure the the hose is going onto the nipple (hose end) along with the socket. Oh, and be sure the hose is all the way up against the threaded part of the socket when you start. A neat trick to see that the hose hasn't moved is to mark the hose where it goes into the socket with a sharpie (brake clean will take it off), if the line you draw moves more than an 1/8" out of the socket, you might want to try again

I will tell you that the cutting of the hose is the biggest predictor of success in assembly and non-perforation of your thumbs! So take care in the cutting, and if you have a convenient hydraulic hose shop, you might see if they'll cut the hose for you, you'll be amazed at how much better things go together!

Hope this is helpful!

Mike

[Bubba]

Thanks for all of the replies, guys! I used electrical tape to wrap it tight, cut with a dremel and fiber cut-off wheel. Used some silicone shock oil from my RC car and it went together fairly easy. poked my fingers lots of times with the frayed steel shielding, but oh well. Wouldn't be worth it if I didn't bleed a little ;)

[JeremyL]

While AN stuff nice, I think next time I'll plumb everything with Aeroquip push lok fittings & line.

[firebaron90]

I agree, the push lock stuff looks good. I put together a -6An set up for my oil cooler. The first fitting was the worst, and it got progressively easier. I did braided because it was an oil line, but the push lock stuff is the easier ticket for the future.

Joe

[contraption22]

I saw this tool at a local motorsports show. I'll probably be getting it for when it is time to replumb my fuel system over the winter. The salesperson let me try it out at the show and I was extremely impressed.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3330&iorb=4764&0

[dds78910]

Use a air hose to blow the lines out before you use them!:nod:

[zin]

I saw this tool at a local motor sports show. I'll probably be getting it for when it is time to re plumb my fuel system over the winter. The salesperson let me try it out at the show and I was extremely impressed.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3330&iorb=4764&0

Those things are definitely worth the $$ if you are going to assemble more than a couple of hoses!! Your thumbs will love you for it!

[firebaron90]

I think it is called Kool tools. It is a fitted cap that holds the red nut firmily in a vice, and has a hole that is tapered to slide the hose into. It cant go anywhere else but into the nut, and it prevents fraying. I would have bought it, but i was only doing the oil cooler.

Joe

[zin]

I think it is called Kool tools. It is a fitted cap that holds the red nut firmily in a vice, and has a hole that is tapered to slide the hose into. It cant go anywhere else but into the nut, and it prevents fraying. I would have bought it, but i was only doing the oil cooler.

Joe

Yeah, kinda pricey if you are only doing a few hoses, but if you are going to do more than 5-10, it's well worth the $$. I've calculated that that's the break even point between it's cost and the money you'd have spent on band-aids. :)