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View Full Version : L-body windows loose/tilting?



Clay
09-10-2007, 11:28 AM
When I roll the front windows up in the GLHT I have to pull the windows back because they are loose and like to bind up in the tracks. What exactly needs repaired/replaced to make these things work like new???

johnl
09-11-2007, 09:46 PM
I have/had the same problem. There is an adjustment sequence in the shop manual. I did that and lubed all the friction points and the adjustment helped but it is still not right.

Anyone else?

rare_ram
09-11-2007, 10:54 PM
Take a look at this pic. As you can see there's not a lot going on. The rusty part is the window crank and gear part that makes the windo go up and down. It has a small wheel that is in a chanel on the aluminum part which is attached to the glass. The aluminum part slides up and down on the pole. I would think the nylon bushings on the aluminum part are worn since that seems to be the only thing that keep the glass level.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/732000-732999/732054_257_full.jpg

2.216VTurbo
09-12-2007, 12:24 AM
Are the nylon 'bushings' that hold the glass to the mechanism intact and in good shape?? Isn't the pole attachment slotted at both ends for a bit of adjustability at top and bottom??

zin
09-12-2007, 03:08 PM
If I recall correctly, the top nylon piece in the picture is what is worn on mine, allowing the window to tilt (I would say ----, but I can just hear the comments!). So, it would seem that replacing this piece or otherwise taking up the excessive clearance it allows would fix the issue. I was kinda hoping someone else had some supper cheap and elegant fix for this already, but from what I can tell everyone is just living with it (like me).

minigts
09-12-2007, 05:25 PM
Man don't get me started on these windows. My driver side is terrible. The thing is wobbly, probably the same issue you are having and when you go to roll it all the way up, it slips the teeth so it won't go all the way up unless you pull it with your hand. I'm going to measure and see about putting in some power window, but that will probably take me longer than some of you will have your cars. :thumb:

johnl
09-14-2007, 02:11 PM
Does wear of the window channels/felts have anything to do with it? I had to do the same thing as Clay says - pull up on the window to unbind it. I can see worn nylon dealies as allowing the window to drop out of plumb and then the corner of the window snags on the inside of the felt's track? Or, maybe the track wears and that allows the window to tilt and then it snags on the nylon? One or the other or both?

At least we're getting somewhere in understanding it.
Just have to tear the thing apart, again.

zin
09-14-2007, 05:13 PM
Man don't get me started on these windows. My driver side is terrible. The thing is wobbly, probably the same issue you are having and when you go to roll it all the way up, it slips the teeth so it won't go all the way up unless you pull it with your hand. I'm going to measure and see about putting in some power window, but that will probably take me longer than some of you will have your cars. :thumb:

Regarding Power Windows: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17791

zin
09-14-2007, 05:16 PM
Does wear of the window channels/felts have anything to do with it? I had to do the same thing as Clay says - pull up on the window to unbind it. I can see worn nylon dealies as allowing the window to drop out of plumb and then the corner of the window snags on the inside of the felt's track? Or, maybe the track wears and that allows the window to tilt and then it snags on the nylon? One or the other or both?

At least we're getting somewhere in understanding it.
Just have to tear the thing apart, again.

That's definitely part of it, after I replaced the disintegrated felts and scrapers on my Omni with some no-so disintegrated units, it was better, but still didn't work very well, the key is the nylon do-hickeys.

Mike

devlish
10-16-2007, 04:31 PM
i took a pair of large channel-locks and bent the metal 'wings' that hold the nylon in. i "squeezed" them together a little bit, to make the nylon not so loose around that guide rod. that helped the problem, but didn't fix it.

on a related note, i'm on the phone now with a local shop that machines nylon. I'm going to try and get some prices together over the next week or so and see what can be done. i've got 2 omni's myself that i wouldn't mind haveing these for. would there be any interest?

also, with me having to go out to my shop and tear off door panels, i'm pretty sure the left/right are the same nylon piece. anyone know quickly off the top of their head?

minigts
10-16-2007, 05:06 PM
Regarding Power Windows: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17791

Yeah I saw that post before, but not much had been updated till recently. Thanks for the update though!

zin
10-16-2007, 05:30 PM
If they aren't too expensive, I'm sure there are a number of others that would love to have their windows fixed!:nod:

Mike

devlish
10-16-2007, 06:00 PM
i emailed some rough layouts of both the grommet that goes around the guide rod, and the top insert piece as well. i hope to have some price ideas later in the week.

i hope there will be some interest in this. i'll update with some prices as soon as i figure it out.

thanks
~Kurt

cordes
10-16-2007, 06:19 PM
I would be interested in some of the plastic pieces if they came up for sale. I know I need them. Although like a true TMer I would not be willing to spend a fortune since I can just bend the pieces as mentioned to get it back in decent shape.

devlish
10-16-2007, 08:23 PM
that bending trick DID help a little. i wont lie. but it only worked on one of my cars, and they are still both very bad. it helped it from being loose, but did nothing as far as still having to hold/help the window go up.

i'll keep you guys updated on the progress of this stuff. i have access to two different kinds of materials... Nylon and UH&W (or something like that). the UH&W is cheaper, more durable, and easier to work with... but not quite as resistant to weather changes. the nylon is a tad more expensive, but much more resiliant to weather changes. both are self lubricating, but will not detiorate if lubes such as a white lithium is used as well.

it is recommended to use the nylon due to the weather and that these will be in cars that might see weather changes. besides, the nylon lasted 15-20yrs already, i think it would be fine. will update as neccessary

zin
10-17-2007, 07:16 PM
that bending trick DID help a little. i wont lie. but it only worked on one of my cars, and they are still both very bad. it helped it from being loose, but did nothing as far as still having to hold/help the window go up.

i'll keep you guys updated on the progress of this stuff. i have access to two different kinds of materials... Nylon and UH&W (or something like that). the UH&W is cheaper, more durable, and easier to work with... but not quite as resistant to weather changes. the nylon is a tad more expensive, but much more resilient to weather changes. both are self lubricating, but will not deteriorate if lubes such as a white lithium is used as well.

it is recommended to use the nylon due to the weather and that these will be in cars that might see weather changes. besides, the nylon lasted 15-20yrs already, i think it would be fine. will update as necessary

Any consideration given to using Teflon(PTFE)? I don't know if it's any cheaper, but it might work better than the Nylon, might have to use a harder grade, but might be worth considering.

Mike

PS It might be something OMIPOTENT might be interested in adding to the line?

devlish
10-22-2007, 05:05 PM
should be getting some baseline pricing tomoro, and then hopefully tearing a car apart over the next few weeks to get the originals out, and have some samples made up to see how they work out in my cars, and a few select others. before making a normal sized run. i've been super busy at work lately, so progress has been slow on this. bear with me though, i'm very intersted in getting these complete.

Captain Chaos
10-22-2007, 05:13 PM
Where's Omnipotent? Next thing to make and sell........

envyyourethics
10-23-2007, 10:16 AM
the UH&W is cheaper, more durable, and easier to work with...

Its UHMW...It is VERY slick and is usually hard to mold and has to be machined. It wears ALOT longer then nylon or abs plastic.

devlish
10-23-2007, 11:41 AM
Its UHMW...It is VERY slick and is usually hard to mold and has to be machined. It wears ALOT longer then nylon or abs plastic. yes, that's the other option. however, i'm told the UHMW is not as good in temperature changes like the nylon is. (hot summers/cold winters, etc) that is the only downside i've heard.

i'm still doing some research on this as to what will be better. i'm leaning towards nylon due to the temperature factor. and that it'll probaby still last a good 15+ years in nylon. and as much as i love my GLH, i'm not sure we'll still be together in 15yrs.

Mario
10-23-2007, 12:17 PM
I use UHMW in another vehicle of mine for various bushings. The car has seen temps from the negatives to around 180 is what I'd imagine being in the engine bay. No problems. Of course I haven't ran them that long....

devlish
10-23-2007, 01:19 PM
i'm doing the numbers now for pricing. i'll be contacting OmniPotent i think to get this setup and going. hopefully he is interested.

i will update this as needed.

thanks
Kurt

Captain Chaos
10-23-2007, 07:20 PM
i'm doing the numbers now for pricing. i'll be contacting OmniPotent i think to get this setup and going. hopefully he is interested.

i will update this as needed.

thanks
Kurt

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