people, school me on clutches.

[mark]

i have some clutch questions.

are the tIII/568 cars having a different clutch than say a tii daytona?
The only thing i can think of is the small spline/ large spline difference.

I know the flywheel is different. I am going to see how bad mine is before I fork over for a new one, Just going to get the current one resurfaced if it can be.

i'm looking for a good detailed explanation that goes over all the clutches...
single diaphram, dual diaphram, 4 puck, 6 puck, what is special over the mcloud ones... etc etc...

basically.. school me. please

I'm wanting a clutch setup that can handle 375-400hp

[86Shelby]

The pressure plate is a little different than the other turbo TDs. It's a little smaller in outside diameter so it doesn't interfere with the crank sensor picking up the marks on the outside of the flywheel.

As for 375-400 hp. I would likely go with the 4 puck ceramic clutch. I had that in my Spirit R/T and liked it after I got used to it. I'll be putting another one in when the engine is assembled.

[slasky]

The TU 4 puck in my charger is awesome.

[Turbo3Iroc]

I agree you want a 4 puck, possibly the upgraded pressure plate but I don't think you need the dual diaphram plate.

All of the vendors carry the T3 plates. They have a slightly smaller outside diameter to allow the crank sensor to read the flywheel cuts.

[Lotashelbys]

I like the Mcleod Rev-Lok disc and FWDPs 2100lb dual diaghrapm PP. Its totally streetable no matter what everyone has said about that disc. The DD plate is a little hard on the leg but if you lengthen the clutch relase lever 1.5" it will feel more like a stock TIII plate again. The only problem with them is you can break a clutch cable now and then(I was told)but thats an easy fix. I will gaurantee it will hold more than 400HP,gaurantee:thumb:

Had a few 4-pucks on my old 8valve cars,didnt like,but they were old RPSs,the new ones could be better.....

[Millerman340]

I still have to buy a clutch setup for the R/T, So the max effort clutch setup is the Rev-lok & the 2100 ? What type of damage is the rev-lok going to inflict on the flywheel ?

[2.216VTurbo]

Ya know, one man's 'totally streetable' is another's 'holy shite, this is killing my leg':confused: I've never met a DD PP that I got along with. Then again, I don't know how your guys can make a dual with 'only' 2100# of pressure.

Back in the day when stretched cables and cramped quads were OK, I treid a few different DD set ups. They were all too stiff for me but the set up I liked best was combined with a Kevlar disc. Kevlar has a lower coefficient of friction than the organics or ceramics so it does need a bunch of pressure to work properly. I think that one was a Clutchmasters set up.

BTW Mark, there is no perfect clutch:( I have been thru at least 20 on my TD's over the years... Usually if it has smooth engagement and is streetable, it won't hold the power when the boost comes up. Too much clutch on a car is a nightmare to live with on the street. I am still trying new combonations in search of the ultimate though. The dual friction (organic one side, copper pucks on the other) from Clutchnet was really close on my TC Masi, but it couldn't hold the torque in 5th gear, so after less than 2K miles I swapped it for a six puck ceramic. Now it holds all the power but I have to slide it above 2K or it chatters:mad:

[Millerman340]

I had a ACT 2600 lb in my old 92 Plymouth laser RS AWD & It was not to bad but the system on those are hydraulic. You just did not want to hold it in for any liength of time

[Opticon]

Spec Stage 3 PP (claimed 2800lb) with 3 & 3+ discs here.

MAD pressure w/ very tolerable pedal feel and engadement. Never had one slip (and I've pushed a 50 trim to 20psi in a 3300raceweight Spirit). The 3+ is more streetable as it's a full faced kevlar disc w/ sprung hub, but the regular stage 3 (6 puck sprung ceramic) is good as well.

Unfortunately, both combos will cost you.