Battery in trunk: alternator

[overlordsshadow]

Since my battery is in the trunk do I need a more powerful alternator to get the charge all the way to the back?

[t3rse]

no, but make sure you have a disconnect switch outside that cuts the ground and make sure the ground to the alt also runs to the switch or else nhra tracks won't let you run, however i recommend the 125amp n/d alt anyways, which you probably already have

[RoadWarrior222]

You might want nice thick cables and may need suppression capacitors each end, due to that length of cable acting like an antenna and picking up crap that can flake out the ECU and/or other electronics.

[JDAWG]

I would run atleast 2awg for that length of run

[bfarroo]

I have my battery in the trunk and haven't had any issues using the ND alt in my 91 daytona. Make sure you fuse at the front and back of the vehicle for safety. I have a stinger style circuit breaker mounted up front and in back. I only ran 4 gauge wiring but my reasoning was the battery is only starting the car after that the alternator takes care of the rest.

[overlordsshadow]

I am also running 4 gauge I believe. Only have a circuit breaker at the back of the car, why need one for front? Well I guess I have fuses at the front, the glass ones.

[RoadWarrior222]

why need one for front?

'coz they're probably gonna look in the front for one when they're cutting you outa the wreck.

[overlordsshadow]

Not a bad idea. Can't be sure if ure trying to say I am a dangerous driver or not though;)

[turbovanman²]

Since my battery is in the trunk do I need a more powerful alternator to get the charge all the way to the back?


No, your not changing the load, IE running 1000 watts instead of 50.



Not a bad idea. Can't be sure if ure trying to say I am a dangerous driver or not though;)

Well who's to say its your fault? :confused:

[dds78910]

I use to have my battery in the back, but I went through a couple starters. I figured it was from the extra length in cable drawing more of a load. It was
4ga. wire and I had the breaker up front. Since I moved the batt. back up front I didnt have any more problems.

[JeremyL]

I use to have my battery in the back, but I went through a couple starters. I figured it was from the extra length in cable drawing more of a load. It was
4ga. wire and I had the breaker up front. Since I moved the batt. back up front I didnt have any more problems.

4 gauge isn't big enough for that, a minimum of 2 gauge and 1/0 would be ideal.

[dds78910]

It was about 6 years ago. I did it the cheap way, I use to have a amp and subs in the back and pulled them out and used the power cable as the battery cable. Now the car is drag only, my future plans will require the battery be in the back again so that info will come in handy, thanks!:thumb:

[t2_85_lebaron]

i have mine back there.. cranks nice, i used 2 guage welding cable for both runs.

[JDAWG]

if a bunch of you guys are doing this you may want to look into http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZcoppercableman Cheapest place around and the wire is GREAT! High strand count, it has a rubber outer jacket and pvc inner, any color and he will silkscreen a name on it. For the copper rings I went to the local battery one, he sells them to me for $100 because I have spent like $1500 there back when i had hydraulics (batteries, rings, wire, etc.)

[t2_85_lebaron]

just buy a couple tsunami 0 guage sterio wire kits.. thats some damn nice wire if i do say so myself

[rbryant]

I got all of my stuff from http://www.darvex.com.

I just noticed that they have the 0ga power wire on clearance $3/ft.

I also got some distribution blocks, fuses, etc to make a nice clean install...

One thing about putting the battery in the trunk that was stated is the need for an external switch. I put mine in the charger hatch lock hole with a washer so I didn't have to cut anything.

The car must shut off when the switch is thrown. I actually ran the 0ga wire to the starter and alternator and then ran a seperate switched 4ga (8ga is probably big enough) line to power the accessories.

The alternator and starter are connected to the battery through a 150-200amp (continous rating not peak) ANL fuse and not to the main supply line on the wiring harness.

The 4ga wire then connects the battery to the main supply line through an 80amp circuit breaker for the acessory line (this is handy for resetting the computer, etc) but an 80amp AGU fuse would be cheaper and work fine. I am not sure I am happy with the quality of the circuit breaker anyway...


I actually didn't fuse the line that goes from the alternator in the front of the car but perhaps I will add one (probably a 100-150amp ANL). Adding the fuse in the front would protect against a short from the alternator to the body where the fuse in the back protects against a fuse from the battery to the body which would be more devastating.

If people are interested I can post some pictures.

-Rich