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Bubba
08-26-2007, 12:26 PM
Anyone here using this set-up and been able to successfully log A/F ratios using the Innovate Logworks2 software?

GLHNSLHT2
08-26-2007, 12:54 PM
I have that setup and have logged a/f on the laptop. What problem are you having with it?

Bubba
08-26-2007, 01:05 PM
I can't get the logworks software to recognize the input. I only have port 1 as an option. LM programmer doesn't connect either. I'm using Win XP and a serial port connection. It also started acting funny when I was trying to connect; the gauge started bouncing between O2 and 20.8 so I had to do a fresh free-air cal to get that to stop.

Speedeuphoria
08-26-2007, 01:48 PM
Yeah I log w/ logworks2 also, when you use LM prog it will only connect to the last device in the chain, you have the terminator plug in the 1st device right?

GLHNSLHT2
08-26-2007, 02:08 PM
O2/20.8 means it's reading free air. Anyway. You have the terminator plug in the in port of the LC-1. The out of the LC1 goes in the in of the XD and the serial cable goes into the out of the XD. This way the laptop will see only the LC-1. If you want to program the XD you need to put the terminator plug into the in of the XD. It will only connect if you have only 1 program open. So fire up logworks2 then start the car or put power to the LC-1 setup. It should connect. Same with the LMprog. After you prog the LC-1 you can't run logworks until power has been shut off to the LC-1 and restarted.


What do you mean you have only 1 port as an option??

Bubba
08-26-2007, 02:24 PM
Yeah I log w/ logworks2 also, when you use LM prog it will only connect to the last device in the chain, you have the terminator plug in the 1st device right?


Yea, I re-checked my terminator and it's on the input side of the LC-1.

Bubba
08-26-2007, 02:26 PM
What do you mean you have only 1 port as an option??


When I open up logworks, it asks me which port I'd like to use for the connection and it only gives me port 1 as an option. I run some other software to connect this laptop to devices at work and I can normally choose between ports 1 or 2.

Will Martin
08-27-2007, 12:17 AM
I bought a USB to serial adapter and plug it into my USB port. It works well that way, no problems so far.

Bubba
06-10-2008, 02:38 PM
Fixed my problem...using different laptop. Now I just have to figure out what I need to log rpm and I'll be set.

Clay
06-10-2008, 02:55 PM
to log RPM you will need some other input device, like the SSI4.

This is my only hangup with the wideband. If you have a scanner like the OTC, you can log everything except the wideband, so in order to get your wideband signal, and RPM/Boost/etc, you have to add on another module. Ive got the SSI4, so its not that much of an issue now I guess.

Bubba
06-10-2008, 02:58 PM
Yea, did some research. SSI-4 needed. I've got an OTC 2000; I don't think it has the capabilities to datalog. Do you know if knock can be datalogged by the SSI-4? I guess I get to head down to Summit Racing and pick up one of these now.

overlordsshadow
06-10-2008, 03:16 PM
Can you data log with the LC1 without the XD-16?

Bubba
06-10-2008, 03:19 PM
Just the A/F.

overlordsshadow
06-10-2008, 03:36 PM
Sweet.

I didn't know I could log my A/F's with the LC-1, although I did see it had computer hookups.

Bubba
06-10-2008, 03:37 PM
I think it's almost useless though unless you have a matching rpm input.

overlordsshadow
06-10-2008, 03:51 PM
Ya, but at least I can see if I was dipping low at any point. It will be at least fun to do:)

Bubba
06-10-2008, 03:55 PM
True, basically, you'll use the software as your gauge. I use my XD-16 gauge while I'm driving.

risen
06-10-2008, 05:36 PM
I've written a piece of software that allows you to pull the data from a logic module into logworks. It doesn't work with smec based cars only logic modules. Only item is that you need to modify your LM to have either a serial or USB interface, but it's much cheaper than a ssi-4 and there are many more options. If you're interested PM me, I've attached a screenshot.

I doubt that logging the raw knock sensor is going to be useful unless you test it against the knock voltage table from your calibration.

Eventually I'm going to get around to figuring out how to log from a otc scanner into logworks, but from speaking with Warren Hall, it's not a trivial task.

1FastCSX289
06-10-2008, 06:55 PM
You can just buy the LMA-2 from innovate. This converts RPM to a useable signal and also allows you to log 4 or 5 other sensors, which is nice.....so you can look at RPM, A/F, boost, air temp, etc. I think its about 100 bucks.

Bubba
06-10-2008, 07:18 PM
I've written a piece of software that allows you to pull the data from a logic module into logworks. It doesn't work with smec based cars only logic modules. Only item is that you need to modify your LM to have either a serial or USB interface, but it's much cheaper than a ssi-4 and there are many more options. If you're interested PM me, I've attached a screenshot.

I doubt that logging the raw knock sensor is going to be useful unless you test it against the knock voltage table from your calibration.

Eventually I'm going to get around to figuring out how to log from a otc scanner into logworks, but from speaking with Warren Hall, it's not a trivial task.

That's pretty cool. Unfortunately, I have a SBEC. The ssi-4 is only $130, so it's not too much money.

risen
06-10-2008, 09:15 PM
That's pretty cool. Unfortunately, I have a SBEC. The ssi-4 is only $130, so it's not too much money.

I really need to get a smec and sbec car to do dev work on. It's unfortunate that people still have to do things the hard way to get decent datalogging.

Anyone know how hard it is to swap a 88 g-body harness into a 87 t2 p-body? Or a sbec harness for that matter?

Bubba
06-10-2008, 09:54 PM
Nope. I'd imagine it'd be rather hard to totally swap harnesses. Too bad we weren't any closer; I'd be willing to let my car out for some experiments.

Bubba
06-11-2008, 07:45 AM
Anyone know the best place to hook up for RPM and boost? Computer 60 pin connector maybe?

overlordsshadow
06-11-2008, 09:27 AM
I did a harness swap when I changed from TBI to EFI. Wasn't that hard but I did have some guys helping me who knew their stuff.

GLHNSLHT2
06-12-2008, 12:08 AM
I really need to get a smec and sbec car to do dev work on. It's unfortunate that people still have to do things the hard way to get decent datalogging.

Anyone know how hard it is to swap a 88 g-body harness into a 87 t2 p-body? Or a sbec harness for that matter?

Would be easier to find a 88 Pbody harness and put that in. The Pbodies have no 50 pin connector, where the other k cars did.

risen
06-12-2008, 10:51 AM
Would be easier to find a 88 Pbody harness and put that in. The Pbodies have no 50 pin connector, where the other k cars did.

That's what I was afraid of. God damn p-bodies, only thing less standard is the L bodies. Anyways, I've decided that I'm going to do smec work on a bench. Maybe once I get a smec "running" on a bench, I'll get a sbec too.

quantum
06-12-2008, 11:35 AM
O2/20.8 means it's reading free air.

My LC-1 must be out of wack. I did a free air calibration a couple days ago (it was in my exhaust pipe still, but the car hadn't run for 3 days), after it was done I was still reading a 15 something AFR without turning the car on. I think I'll pull the sensor, clean it a bit, and do a complete heater cal and free air to see if it makes a difference.

risen
06-12-2008, 12:27 PM
My LC-1 must be out of wack. I did a free air calibration a couple days ago (it was in my exhaust pipe still, but the car hadn't run for 3 days), after it was done I was still reading a 15 something AFR without turning the car on. I think I'll pull the sensor, clean it a bit, and do a complete heater cal and free air to see if it makes a difference.

My wideband analog output will like read that while it's heating up. Takes 10-15 seconds to go away. Dunno how long you waited or how your guage is hooked up. Someone on this board (t3iroc) had a great idea to evacuate the exhaust system: unhook the downpipe, and pull air through with a vaccum cleaner at the tailpipe. Turn off vaccum cleaner and recal. He used his cutout, though.

Turbo3Iroc
06-13-2008, 01:38 AM
Having a V-band off the turbo helps a lot also :thumb:

Speedeuphoria
06-13-2008, 02:24 AM
Anyone know the best place to hook up for RPM and boost? Computer 60 pin connector maybe?


Well not sure where its easier for you to hook into it, but if you have a GM 3bar I can email(PM me your email) you the .dif file to load a "custom lookup table" into LW, I'll post the values here for reference. They may be slightly off from what the computer is seeing so you may have to look at LW and the computer to see the map its seeing. Also if you want to log TPS its easy to setup from the middle TPS wire with the car off but key on, I can help in PM also if you need.

I agree with others that just logging the A/F is pointless, your just going to see it going all over unless you start then do a pull then stop it in short order, otherwise without TPS or MAP you have no clue


My wideband analog output will like read that while it's heating up. Takes 10-15 seconds to go away. Dunno how long you waited or how your guage is hooked up. Someone on this board (t3iroc) had a great idea to evacuate the exhaust system: unhook the downpipe, and pull air through with a vaccum cleaner at the tailpipe. Turn off vaccum cleaner and recal. He used his cutout, though.
Also many people talk about doing a free air calibration by driving down a long hill at speed, then turn the car off in gear, then do a free air cal, since the motor will be pumping in fresh air to the exhaust. Now I'm not saying I recommend this but seems to work.

Heres the GM 3 bar voltage values

overlordsshadow
06-13-2008, 08:54 AM
If I've had the car not running and battery out for 6 months, I guess I should recal the LC1?

risen
06-13-2008, 09:29 AM
Having a V-band off the turbo helps a lot also :thumb:

Yeah, but 2 bolts on a swingvalve ain't bad either.


I would just be careful about recalibrating while drawing air across the sensor doing the downhill coast idea. I'm relatively certain doing a recal with air flowing across the sensor would mess with a heater cal and may mess with the o2 calibration too.

quantum
06-13-2008, 09:45 AM
I'm hoping to get under my car tonight and take care of this. I'll tell ya though, if it keeps acting this stupid I'm going to sell the unit and buy another PLX Devices DM-5 + SM-AFR combo; I never had an ounce of trouble with it and it didn't need to be calibrated as much.

risen
06-13-2008, 10:27 AM
I'm hoping to get under my car tonight and take care of this. I'll tell ya though, if it keeps acting this stupid I'm going to sell the unit and buy another PLX Devices DM-5 + SM-AFR combo; I never had an ounce of trouble with it and it didn't need to be calibrated as much.

Some people have an unreasonable number of problems with innovate hardware. Mine has always been solid and trouble free minus 1 hiccpu, but others have had their share of problems. I've got 2 lc-1's that haven't needed a recal in well over a year.

I thought the PLX hardware didn't need to be recalibrated at all?

quantum
06-13-2008, 11:09 AM
Some people have an unreasonable number of problems with innovate hardware. Mine has always been solid and trouble free minus 1 hiccpu, but others have had their share of problems. I've got 2 lc-1's that haven't needed a recal in well over a year.

I thought the PLX hardware didn't need to be recalibrated at all?

It isn't suppose to need it at all, but I like to do it at least once a season just to be safe.