Oil Pump Differences?

[finallall]

Hi everyone,

Got 2 quick questions:

1) Is there any difference between a Seal Power Oil Pump and a Melling Pump? I guess what I wanna know is if the Seal Power one is good or crap?

2) Is there a diff between a turbo and nonturbo Oil Pump? Also is it worth to put in the high pressure spring in the Oil Pump? It's for a street car.

Thanks, Alex.

[turbovanman²]

No difference, get whichever one is cheaper.

Remove the tin cover on the pickup so there is no restriction.

Yes, use the spring, gives a little more pressure when you need it most. DON'T buy the High Volume pump.

[finallall]

LOL Once again you prove to be very informative and straight to the point Turbovanman.

Do you know if there is there a diff between a turbo and nonturbo Oil Pump?

Thanks,

Alex.

[turbovanman²]

Same oil pump. :p

[Austrian Dodge]

Yes, use the spring, gives a little more pressure when you need it most. DON'T buy the High Volume pump.

were to get that spring?
and why not the high volume pump?

[Directconnection]

I have been told (DC engineer) that a high volume pump is ok. High pressure is NOT. You don't want to be blowing oil through the seals in your turbo.

[turbovanman²]

You get the spring from Mopar, P3690944

HV pumps suck HP and honestly, our engines don't need it, unless your autocrossing, high pressure, hmmmmmm, I would say a bit more than stock is fine, using the spring but no need to go crazy. Stock is the best way to go anyhow.

[Austrian Dodge]

I bought a high volume melling a few months ago,hmmm
so when I change the spring with the mopar P3690944, I have an high pressure pump? I'm confused :confused:

I'm road racing with that car

[turbovanman²]

I bought a high volume melling a few months ago,hmmm
so when I change the spring with the mopar P3690944, I have an high pressure pump? I'm confused :confused:

I'm road racing with that car

The spring raises the pressure a few psi, I think around 10-15psi.

A autocrosser said he uses the HV pump and baffled oil pan to keep his engine safe, he found out he needed it. Can't remember his name.

[Austrian Dodge]

got the high pressure spring today...was about $10.00USD
we'll see what it does

thanks for the part# simon!

[rhubbard]

to get to the spring do i have to pop out that little cap? what do i do if the cap is stuck in there? also what side does the bigger chamfer on the pump point to?

[turbovanman²]

to get to the spring do i have to pop out that little cap? what do i do if the cap is stuck in there? also what side does the bigger chamfer on the pump point to?

You drill out the little cap then install a screw and pry it out. The spring will pop out and then the relief valve will fall out, or it should. If its an older pump, clean it up, lube the relief valve and make sure it moves freely, if not, you will have too much or no oil pressure. The valve goes in with the hollow end facing up. Install the spring then the cap, the hollow part faces up. Tap it down and install the cotter pin. BAM, your done.


Your welcome Andreas. :thumb:

[rhubbard]

so is it fine to leave the hole in the cap the way it is?

[turbovanman²]

so is it fine to leave the hole in the cap the way it is?


NO, if theres a hole in the cap, you need to seal it, otherwise your going to have oil pressure issues.

[rhubbard]

should I get a new cap or what should I use to seal the hole I'm gonna put into it.

[turbovanman²]

should I get a new cap or what should I use to seal the hole I'm gonna put into it.

Get a new cap but your going to have to match one up, you can't buy it seperately. If you buy that spring kit, it comes with a new one. Otherwise I would weld the hole up.

[rhubbard]

cool, I just ordered my spring today. Total cost of $4.24 and will be here tomorrow.

I also was told by the service guy when I asked about oil pickup lines that it would take a week to bring one in and that there are only 30 left in chrysler supply. INteresting fact there and yes I know I can get one on TU.

[turbovanman²]

cool, I just ordered my spring today. Total cost of $4.24 and will be here tomorrow.

I also was told by the service guy when I asked about oil pickup lines that it would take a week to bring one in and that there are only 30 left in chrysler supply. INteresting fact there and yes I know I can get one on TU.

Good deal.

Yep, theres no point getting the crappy stocker when for less money, you can get a braided line, :p

[rhubbard]

braided line?

[turbovanman²]

braided line?

Steel braided line from TU, FWD or make your own using Earls products.

[Chris W]

You drill out the little cap then install a screw and pry it out. The spring will pop out and then the relief valve will fall out, or it should. If its an older pump, clean it up, lube the relief valve and make sure it moves freely, if not, you will have too much or no oil pressure. The valve goes in with the hollow end facing up. Install the spring then the cap, the hollow part faces up. Tap it down and install the cotter pin. BAM, your done.


Your welcome Andreas. :thumb:

The cap should be installed with the concave portion facing in, not out. Facing the concave portion outward will create too much pressure.

Chris-TU

[turbovanman²]

The cap should be installed with the concave portion facing in, not out. Facing the concave portion outward will create too much pressure.

Chris-TU

Ok, I reitterate, just watch the way it comes out, lol! :p

[Chris W]

Ok, I reitterate, just watch the way it comes out, lol! :p

No problem Simon, I'm sure that's what you meant to say:D In the past we have had several turbos come in for warranty repair that were perfectly fine. When using HP/HV pumps the turbo bearing cavity cannot drain fast enough and the pressure forces the oil past the turbo piston seals. Most people automatically think the turbo seals have failed and send in the turbo. Keep in mind that the oil drain is powered by gravity not pressure. All that is required to resolve the issue is reducing the P/V so the oil can drain properly.

Chris-TU

[iTurbo]

Chris, I have a rebuilt TII turbocharger on my Omni GLH that I bought from you guys a couple years ago. It's doing great, but I am having a problem with oil coming out of my compressor housing and collecting in the intercooler. I really don't think it's the turbo at fault here because it boosts just fine, minimal shaft play, and sounds completely normal.

The engine is an '89 2.5L TI with over 210k miles on it. It still has good compression and makes good vacuum at idle so I think the engine is fine. The oil pump is a Melling H/V. I'm getting pretty high oil pressure, even with the car fully warmed up. I haven't verified oil pressure with a gauge, but with a new Mopar oil pressure sender, the factory gauge is showing about 3/4. Is there any way to correct this without swapping out the oil pump for the standard Mopar pump?

[Chris W]

Chris, I have a rebuilt TII turbocharger on my Omni GLH that I bought from you guys a couple years ago. It's doing great, but I am having a problem with oil coming out of my compressor housing and collecting in the intercooler. I really don't think it's the turbo at fault here because it boosts just fine, minimal shaft play, and sounds completely normal.

The engine is an '89 2.5L TI with over 210k miles on it. It still has good compression and makes good vacuum at idle so I think the engine is fine. The oil pump is a Melling H/V. I'm getting pretty high oil pressure, even with the car fully warmed up. I haven't verified oil pressure with a gauge, but with a new Mopar oil pressure sender, the factory gauge is showing about 3/4. Is there any way to correct this without swapping out the oil pump for the standard Mopar pump?

Here's a reference guide I wrote up a while back. You can call me directly if you wish so we can go over your set up:

TROUBLE SHOOTING

EXHAUST STILL SMOKES:

There are many things, which could cause a new or rebuilt turbo to smoke.
Here are just a few common causes and their solutions:

#1
Cause: Existing oil in exhaust system still burning off from previous turbo
failure.
Solution: Continue running car until smoke disappears. Plan on replacing
Catalytic convertor soon because burnt oil will quickly restrict air flow and
lead to other problems later including turbo failure.

#2
Cause: Oil pressures build up in Turbo Bearing Housing caused by one or all of
the following reasons:

1) Restriction in oil drainback tube/line.
2) Oil feedline pressure exceeds drainback tube capabilities.
3) Blow-by in crankcase caused by worn engine, cracked pistons,
rings, faulty PVC systems, etc.

Solution: 1) This could be caused by one or all of the following three things:

a) Wrong type of drainback hose.
Verify there are no foreign objects in drainback tube/hose.
This could be the paper towel or duct tape you placed there during the
removal of your original turbo to prevent anything from falling in to your
oil pan during the swap. This also includes not using the factory silicon
drainback hose. These are heat and oil resistant hoses where most other
hoses cannot withstand these extreme conditions for very long. Most
automotive hoses are actually 2 hoses (inner and outer) separated by braided
nylon. When this is used in place of the silicon hose the nylon can actually
shrink from the heat restricting the inner hose while leaving the outer hose
looking perfect from the outside. Use the factory hose whenever possible.
There are no advantages to using any other type of hoses for this
application. Turbo removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston
seals should reseat on their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.
b) Oil return flange gasket issues
This is a “dry” gasket so do not use RTV on it. Even the slightest bit that
may get squeezed into the flow of the return oil will impede the gravitational
flow of oil back into your oil pan. Pressure will build up in the turbo bearing
housing to the point where oil is pushed past the seals. Remove all RTV from the
area and replace the gasket. Seals will reseat on their own.

c) Wrong oil drainback line angle.
Turbo oil drainback is powered only by gravity. Angles in excess of 20
degrees will impede oil return flow and pressure build up in the bearing
housing may result. Also be sure to maintain a smooth curve from turbo to
engine and prevent any kinks in the line, which may cause a back-up and
eventual pressurization of the bearing housing.

2) Verify oil pressure is not excessive. 60 PSI at idle for a
warmed up engine is WAY too much. 10psi per 1000 RPM is a good rule of
thumb. To much oil can pressurize the turbo bearing housing if the gravity fed
drainback cannot keep up. This pressurization will force the oil past the turbine
shaft piston seals and into the exhaust or compressor side of the turbo.
Over time, too much pressure can actually be harmful to your entire engine.
With excessive pressure, impurities in your oil can actually eat away at your
bearing surfaces and increase tolerances much like extrude honing works.
Conclusion: Don't use the MP Oil Pressure Relief Spring Kit unless you
absolutely have to but remove it right away if your turbo smokes. Turbo
removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston seals should reseat on
their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.

3) Crank cases pressurized by blow-by can also cause oil to be
forced past the turbine shaft piston seals. Complete a compression check and
leakdown test to check the condition of your engine. There is also a blow-by
detection tool which is placed over the oil cap opening while the engine is
running and measures crank case pressures. Be sure to inspect your crank
case evacuation system to make sure the issue is not being caused by a bad
PVC valve. If you find your oil dipstick out of the tube a few inches after
some spirited driving you are most likely experiencing blow-by. Turbo
removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston seals should reseat on
their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.

If you have any questions about the above don’t hesitate to contact us.

GOOD LUCK!
Chris-TU
602-76-BOOST

[iTurbo]

Thanks Chris. It never smokes, so i think my problem is a combination of excessive oil pressure and/or crankcase pressure due to a half-assed PCV system I need to fix. I'm going to fix the PCV and add a crankcase evac system via the exhaust.

[Chris W]

Thanks Chris. It never smokes, so i think my problem is a combination of excessive oil pressure and/or crankcase pressure due to a half-assed PCV system I need to fix. I'm going to fix the PCV and add a crankcase evac system via the exhaust.

That should help out alot. Let me know how it works out after the fix.

Good Luck!

Chris-TU