WTB: 2.2 Common block Cast Crank

[glhs441]

Must be std. on rods and mains.
How much shipped to 38004?

[GLHSKEN]

go to rock auto.... $200 I have one sitting in the basement ready to go. It is a reman so no guarantee of std std... but out of curiosity, why the requirement?

[Captain Chaos]

go to rock auto.... $200 I have one sitting in the basement ready to go. It is a reman so no guarantee of std std... but out of curiosity, why the requirement?

Don't want to change the displacement.:bolt: j/k

[turbovanman²]

go to rock auto.... $200 I have one sitting in the basement ready to go. It is a reman so no guarantee of std std... but out of curiosity, why the requirement?

Probably stronger. You start cutting down the cranks, you weaken them.

[glhs441]

Because I want to have my machinist do any work and I do not want one thats .40/.40

[GLHSKEN]

Probably stronger. You start cutting down the cranks, you weaken them.


Hmmm. Really... fact or fiction. If that is the case, My buddies car would have blown up LONG ago. He's only triple the mfg rated hp.

[turbovanman²]

Hmmm. Really... fact or fiction. If that is the case, My buddies car would have blown up LONG ago. He's only triple the mfg rated hp.

I would say a bit of both. As you know, cutting them down makes them thinner, thats why alot of hi po places won't use a crank for high HP engines if its cut down too much, IE 30 or 40 thou.

[4 l-bodies]

You guys with the light recip. tisk... tisk... tisk... I like light recips too, but not at the expense of reliability. Ask Diogo what happened to his 2.2 cast crank in his masi 16V the last go-around. Buying $400 main caps, $550 aftermarket rods, $200 in ARP hardware, $600 machine shop charges for another shortblock, YOUR TIME, and then putting in a $50 cast crank? I don't get it. You guys must love to build shortblocks! You get to a certain horsepower level, and you need to build it so it will survive, even if it costs you some horsepower in recip. weight.
My .03 cents (inflation)
Todd

[turbovanman²]

Thats fine for 2.2's, but what about 2.5's?

[GLHSKEN]

You guys with the light recip. tisk... tisk... tisk... I like light recips too, but not at the expense of reliability. My .03 cents (inflation)
Todd

Rick had an unfortunate incident. Any of a number of issues could have combined to cause it. A good comparison was made with the poor old 2.5L guys. They have no option for a forged crank.

The common block with the cast crank should be equally up to the task performed by the 87-88 TII engine packages. 98% of the engines built by people on this forum will not be at the horse power levels that will test the durability (then again there are those pesky 2.5L's living beyond those levels with the cast cranks)

You are 100% correct regarding building a block to it's strongest potential. Those expensive rods that weigh 100 grams less are there for a reason, less stress on the crank which is helpful when you use a cast crank.

There is another reason for light recip... last thing these engines need is more inertia at lower RPM's. Keeping the wheels from lighting up at ridiculous times is hard enough.

My .02... (and yes I have bounds of respect for your knowledge that's why mine was .02 and yours was .03 ;) )

[glhs441]

Reeves goes 10.70's with a cast crank and a short block that is 5years old, Donovan did the same, If a cast crank is good enough for 2 of the fastest Turbo Dodges in history, then I guess its good enough for me.

Thanks for your opinions, but I already have one!!!!!!!!!!!!

All I wanted was a cheap crank not a debate. SHEESH!!!!

[turbovanman²]

All I wanted was a cheap crank not a debate. SHEESH!!!!

But thats what started it, a cheap crank, :lol:

[4 l-bodies]

Thats fine for 2.2's, but what about 2.5's?
Simon,
Velasco made 3.95 stroke forged cranks (2.5) for MP or Direct Connection back in the day along with the destroked (2.0) cranks. There may have been other manufacturers too. The cranks are not easy to find but they are out there. I had a opportunity to purchase a NOS one a while back for $400 but passed. I believe the bulk of these were made for the early block, so ultimately, you would need to acquire a Mexican early style block that had the common block webbing for your ultimate strength 2.5 buildup. They are also not common (at least in the US and Canada) but they are out there too. I have that style block in my beater 89 TII Shadow. Never said it would be easy or inexpensive, but there are forged crank options for the 2.5. BTW if someone sends me their email addy, I can send a couple pics of the 3.95 stroke crank to them for posting to this thread and for their amusement. Sorry but I cannot post photos to this forum.
Todd

[4 l-bodies]

Reeves goes 10.70's with a cast crank and a short block that is 5years old, Donovan did the same, If a cast crank is good enough for 2 of the fastest Turbo Dodges in history, then I guess its good enough for me.

Thanks for your opinions, but I already have one!!!!!!!!!!!!

All I wanted was a cheap crank not a debate. SHEESH!!!!

Recent past history would suggest that your motor is making a lot of horepower. Maybe WAY too much for the stock bottom end to survive for long. That is why I made the post.

Look at every production high performance 2.2 motor that Chrysler built and you will not find a cast crank in the bunch. Maserati TC16v, Lotus TIII, TIV, TII plus all the one off's like the Hans Herman powered GLHS, The 2.5 Ultimate Daytona, PPG pace car, etc. There is a reason for it. The engineers put those expensive forged and billet cranks in the cars for a reason. They did that because that had to survive over the long haul and of course the warranty period. Those heavy perhaps overkill cranks chewed up horsepower, but deemed it a neccessary evil.

Drag only cars that were factory backed were ones that used lighter recip. cranks. They sacrificed longivity and vibration harmonics for lighter recip. Reeves and Donovan's car (both 8V) are/were truely amazing, but they fit into the later catagory as drag cars primarily. Your car seems to be a street car at this point. Just wanted to point out there are a lot of very fast and quick cars out there running forged cranks.
Todd Nelson

[glhs441]

True, I have lost two engines this year, one due to poor machine work, and one due to me needing an engine for SDAC at the last minute and installing a
stock used short block with a 400hp tune up. Stock rod bolts do not like this!! But neither failure was due to a broken crank. I have owned my car for
6 years and have put on 4500mi., so it is not much of a street car.

Todd & Ken: Not trying to be an ---, just looking for a crank!!

[looneytuner]

89 TII for 60 in Wisconson in this thread.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f7/f28/138915-last-call-sell-parts.html

[GLHSKEN]

Todd & Ken: Not trying to be an ---, just looking for a crank!!


You aren't... Todd is right. The proper (strongest) way to build one for high horse is a forged crank.