PDA

View Full Version : 91 Spirit R/T build up



1FastCSX289
12-21-2005, 12:24 PM
Hey guys. I just purchased/traded a 91 Dodge Spirit R/T. The car is really clean, but mostly stock. I have been wanting to build a fast street turbo dodge for a while and just recently decided this is the car. I am into f-bodys and currently own a 96 WS6 Formula that I built a 383 LT4 with nitrous and tons of other goodies. The car runs mid 11's @123 mph. I am selling this car (if anyone is interested email me ;) ) and putting some of the money into modding my R/T. I figure on having about 6-7k to spend on making the R/T at least as fast as my bird is.

Although I have owned several turbo dodges, I must admit I am fairly ignorant (incomparison to my f-body knowledge) when it comes to turbos and performance parts for these car. I started this thread to gain information on getting this thing going and I plan to add to this as I start my project and hopefully develop a nice log with pictures of my progress as I go.

Now, my WS6 probably wont sell until spring, so I have begun to "play" a bit with the car. I have added (or soon to add) an MBC, +20's, adjustable FPR. I am also thinking about purchasing an intercooler, but I wanted to get one that will work for me now (with stock set-up) and still be able to be used later when im making 4-500 HP. This is the one I am thinking about:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8018113817&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

What do you think?

Finally, my goal is 400 HP or so at the wheels, but a totally streetable 400HP. I plan on using a stock bottom end (maybe 4 bolt mains, wiseco pistons). I am also thinking about using nitrous, as I am familiar with it (and quite addicted :D ). I am looking for suggestions on what I would need to do to make this kind of power (turbo, intercooler, alky, nitrous, computer program, injectors, etc) I would appreciate any insight you TIII guys may have. Please remember my budget and I also am figuring on about 1500 bucks to rebuild the A568 with a Quaife and buy slicks. So figure on about 5000 to build the motor. Thanks.

cordes
12-21-2005, 12:50 PM
The bottom end should be ready to rock. Forged slugs from the factory, and the crank and rods should be able to hold 400HP all day long. Big money saver there.

I would just stuff the largest Quality IC in the front of the car that I could. That cooler looks pretty nice, but what does the core look like on the inside? That is one of my biggest fears in purchasing coolers off of ebay.

As for the turbo, I would probbaly go for a super 50 trim wheel in a TO4E housing and a .63 hotside with a stage III wheel in it. That should provide some very streetable boost and support 400HP to the wheels relativly easily.

IIRC, 4sfed4 put down over 400HP with +40 injectors.

I am sure the list never ends, but I would reccomend getting some of the specifics about 4sfed4s setup, as he had/has one very mean RT.

1FastCSX289
12-21-2005, 02:09 PM
Yes, I realize the bottom end is pretty good to go.......4 bolt mains arent necessary? I figured I would be replacing the pistons in the rebuild, so I fiugred wiseco or venolias.

I dont know what the inside of the cooler looks like, but it advertises 1200 cfm of flow which would be enough.

Thanks for the turbo opinion. I would like to get some dialog going on this subject as I am still totally undecided.

I did look into 4sfed4's set-up. Pretty awesome and on a stock long block! I would like to hear more on his car though and the specifics of his tuning, etc....

fleckster
12-21-2005, 02:15 PM
Actually the stock long block is strong enough. The only real bottle-necks on the Turbo III are the turbo (way too small) and the intercooler (again too small and restrictive). By swapping turbos and going with a nice front-mount intercooler, then the appropriate computer/injector/MAP sensor combination, 12s are cake with slicks!

I would suggest realatively cheap improvements that you will be using no matter what you combination ends up being. i.e. 3" mandral exhaust and low restriction muffler. (a converter is up to your local regulations and sound tolerance levels!)

cordes
12-21-2005, 02:33 PM
Yes, I realize the bottom end is pretty good to go.......4 bolt mains arent necessary? I figured I would be replacing the pistons in the rebuild, so I fiugred wiseco or venolias.

I dont know what the inside of the cooler looks like, but it advertises 1200 cfm of flow which would be enough.

Thanks for the turbo opinion. I would like to get some dialog going on this subject as I am still totally undecided.

I did look into 4sfed4's set-up. Pretty awesome and on a stock long block! I would like to hear more on his car though and the specifics of his tuning, etc....


Although I agree that flow is essential for an efficient setup, one must also considder the cooling factor. A huge IC will give the best of both worlds idealy. The reason I mention the internal turbulators is that many of the ebay ICs have virtually none, so the flow like the dickens, but dont cool at all.

I also like to see what PSI the backpressure rating is taken at.

Aries_Turbo
12-21-2005, 03:36 PM
Sean, save your cash on the bottom end. you dont need exotic stuff unless you are going for 1000hp like the SMP charger. He is the only one that makes the custom 4 bolt mains IIRC. 2 bolt (all stock blocks) is plenty for what you want. how many miles are on the engine now? if its high, id do a stock rebuild. at the most, a set of pistons. you can do that for under 1500$.

im also a little leery of the XSpower and the SSautochrome stuff. they really make some garbage parts sometimes or at least they have in the past. a 3 T2 stock core cooler is what larry was using. id check on ebay for thunderbird SC intercooler cores and have them welded up. or get two SRT coolers and put them one on top of the other and change the end tanks slightly. that will be more than enough flow. the SRT stage 3 makes 360whp with one of them. :)

when you rebuild the trans, you might want to look into the quaife for the neon and use a 3.50 FD ratio transfer shaft and ring gear out of the 523 trans. that would give you a slightly taller ratio which means it loads the turbo harder (heat) and you can stay in each gear longer. i know it works awesome on slightly lighter cars.

Anyone here do that setup in an R/T yet? i would think that it would help.

if you make sure the mounts and suspension bushings are up to snuff and tight and you are making the HP you want, there is no reason why it wont be faster than the bird on nitrous with the R/T without nitrous.

id plan on running 25psi with alky injection. you wont miss the nitrous. :)

Brian

cordes
12-21-2005, 03:44 PM
Sean, save your cash on the bottom end. you dont need exotic stuff unless you are going for 1000hp like the SMP charger. He is the only one that makes the custom 4 bolt mains IIRC. 2 bolt (all stock blocks) is plenty for what you want. how many miles are on the engine now? if its high, id do a stock rebuild. at the most, a set of pistons. you can do that for under 1500$.

im also a little leery of the XSpower and the SSautochrome stuff. they really make some garbage parts sometimes or at least they have in the past. a 3 T2 stock core cooler is what larry was using. id check on ebay for thunderbird SC intercooler cores and have them welded up. or get two SRT coolers and put them one on top of the other and change the end tanks slightly. that will be more than enough flow. the SRT stage 3 makes 360whp with one of them. :)

when you rebuild the trans, you might want to look into the quaife for the neon and use a 3.50 FD ratio transfer shaft and ring gear out of the 523 trans. that would give you a slightly taller ratio which means it loads the turbo harder (heat) and you can stay in each gear longer. i know it works awesome on slightly lighter cars.

Anyone here do that setup in an R/T yet? i would think that it would help.

if you make sure the mounts and suspension bushings are up to snuff and tight and you are making the HP you want, there is no reason why it wont be faster than the bird on nitrous with the R/T without nitrous.

id plan on running 25psi with alky injection. you wont miss the nitrous. :)

Brian


With a done up TIII, I would definatly think that he could take serious advantage of the 3.50FD. Heck, I wish I had a 3.50 in my shadow again, of course the shadow is lighter.

1FastCSX289
12-21-2005, 05:17 PM
What is the stock final drive ratio on the R/T?

Let me get this straight......you take the transfer shaft from what? And then you use a stock A520 ring gear? Is the Quaife for a neon different than the one for the A568?

Interesting stuff guys. This is what I need.......keep it coming

Oh, and the car already has a 2.5 Catco and 2.5 mandrel exhaust (FWD) from the CAT back. I will probably be tossing this huh? Or could I just add a 3 inch down pipe and get away with it?

cordes
12-21-2005, 11:14 PM
I believe that you will need the input shaft and pinion gear from a 523 for the hybrid trans. The FD of the 91 568 if 3.85 IIRC. It should say on the tag which is located on the top of the trans.

It is a shame, but I would go 3" all the way on your setup. Try to sell the old exh. in the exchange.

86Shelby
12-22-2005, 12:14 AM
I have the same T3/T4 hybrid turbo mentioned above. I love it! Great spool up and will allow plenty of power.

For the exhaust you can leave the 2.5" cat back part but I would go with a 3" downpipe with a cutout. The 2.5" will flow plenty for day to day driving, yet with the 3" and cutout you can have all the flow you would want. I'm running a 3" mandrel bent system with a cutout. The downpipe start out as 2.75", then expands to 3" after 8" or so. Not enough room on the swingvalve assembly to weld 3" pipe to it.

The intercooler I am running is the Spearco unit FWDP sells. I'll see if I can get a pic up of the installation.

My car was able to put a little over 330 hp to the wheels at 24 psi. The bottom end had roughly 185k miles on it at that time. The ring seal wasn't exactly ideal to say the least. I don't forsee any problems being able to get close to or over 400 with the fresh shortblock coming this winter.

I'm not sure how the lower FD would work in a heavy R/T. The turbo may spool quicker, but with the taller tires there to begin with it might actually hurt overall performance a bit. I like the stock gearing for the most part. and to swap the FD, you need the intermediate shaft(counter shaft, or cluster shaft) and differential from a same year 523. A Neon Quiaffe may work with the 523 diff, can't remember offhand.

EDIT: found and uploaded pics!
http://www.geocities.com/glhs420/21297-R1-06-19A.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/glhs420/Picture_202resized.jpg

Aries_Turbo
12-22-2005, 03:51 AM
R/T 568 has a 3.85 FD.

some (not all) 523's have a 3.50FD ring gear and the transfer (intermediate?) shaft that must be kept as a pair. you want to find a same year as your car, 523 trans with the 3.50 FD as labled on the trans tag.

568 quaifes are different than the 520/523/neon quaife

Brian

1FastCSX289
12-22-2005, 12:59 PM
I have the same T3/T4 hybrid turbo mentioned above. I love it! Great spool up and will allow plenty of power.

For the exhaust you can leave the 2.5" cat back part but I would go with a 3" downpipe with a cutout. The 2.5" will flow plenty for day to day driving, yet with the 3" and cutout you can have all the flow you would want. I'm running a 3" mandrel bent system with a cutout. The downpipe start out as 2.75", then expands to 3" after 8" or so. Not enough room on the swingvalve assembly to weld 3" pipe to it.

The intercooler I am running is the Spearco unit FWDP sells. I'll see if I can get a pic up of the installation.

My car was able to put a little over 330 hp to the wheels at 24 psi. The bottom end had roughly 185k miles on it at that time. The ring seal wasn't exactly ideal to say the least. I don't forsee any problems being able to get close to or over 400 with the fresh shortblock coming this winter.

I'm not sure how the lower FD would work in a heavy R/T. The turbo may spool quicker, but with the taller tires there to begin with it might actually hurt overall performance a bit. I like the stock gearing for the most part. and to swap the FD, you need the intermediate shaft(counter shaft, or cluster shaft) and differential from a same year 523. A Neon Quiaffe may work with the 523 diff, can't remember offhand.

EDIT: found and uploaded pics!
http://www.geocities.com/glhs420/21297-R1-06-19A.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/glhs420/Picture_202resized.jpg

Sweet car man. Mine has about the same mileage, although the previous owner says it was rebuilt about 80k miles ago. Who knows though. Im not going to be as brave as you......I think I will wait for the rebuild before I put some power to it!

Is that 24 PSI computer controlled or are you running an MBC? What cal are you running?

cordes
12-22-2005, 01:34 PM
R/T 568 has a 3.85 FD.

some (not all) 523's have a 3.50FD ring gear and the transfer (intermediate?) shaft that must be kept as a pair. you want to find a same year as your car, 523 trans with the 3.50 FD as labled on the trans tag.

568 quaifes are different than the 520/523/neon quaife

Brian

Supposedly the 90' turbo trans is the 523 with the 3.50FD. I know my 90' shadow had one.

I thought that the Quaife was the same unit, but that you had to use the ring gear out of a 523 regardless due to the fact that the 568 diff has the integral ring gear?

86Shelby
12-22-2005, 11:03 PM
Im not going to be as brave as you......I think I will wait for the rebuild before I put some power to it!
Is that 24 PSI computer controlled or are you running an MBC? What cal are you running?
Thanks for the compliment! :) I don't consider myself too brave for putting down that kind of power since I bought the car with all the mods done to it already. I consider myself brave for driving it to SDAC 15, 1,600 miles all said and done, after owning it for 5 days!
The calibration is a FWDP stage II. The boost controller is a GReddy Type S electronic dual stage; it even has a little 'ricetastic' wireless switch which goes on the steering wheel to change boost levels(high and low) on the fly.

TurboGLH
12-23-2005, 09:25 AM
What is the stock final drive ratio on the R/T?

Let me get this straight......you take the transfer shaft from what? And then you use a stock A520 ring gear? Is the Quaife for a neon different than the one for the A568?

Interesting stuff guys. This is what I need.......keep it coming

Oh, and the car already has a 2.5 Catco and 2.5 mandrel exhaust (FWD) from the CAT back. I will probably be tossing this huh? Or could I just add a 3 inch down pipe and get away with it?

Here's an FAQ I put together on building a Hybrid trans. Check it out.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105

1FastCSX289
12-23-2005, 11:49 AM
Nice write up. So, if I understand correctly, the only main shaft and ring gear/ carrier I can use it from a 91 A523?

Also, what is the difference between the phantom grip and quaife or OBX? Why is the phantom grip so much cheaper? And, what is the general consensus on the OBX?

8valves
12-23-2005, 12:32 PM
Phantom Grips are a waste of your money, period.

Quaiffe's are excellent and you pay for it, as well as a lifetime warranty.

OBX's are a knockoff of teh Quaiffe's and have proven themselves in the Honda world to take on 10 second passes. Granted that's with less torque load and a lighter car, but trust me, they are under some serious abuse by some of these guys. I'd say it's a pretty decent compromise in price and performance.

Boyd (uglyoldomni.com) just switched to an OBX diff and has yet to have any issues. His is a high torque and HP 2.5 setup as well.

Aaron Miller

fleckster
12-23-2005, 12:41 PM
I have the Alabama Man insert in my LeBaron and I like it. Too bad it's an Automatic and doesn't work too well if you want to have the valve body fully automatic. I think it is set up more specific for our cars. I can't speak about the Phantom Grip as I have never tried one. I also can't speak about the Quaife since my SRT-4 is an '03 and didn't come with one.

csxtra
12-23-2005, 02:23 PM
If this is going to be a street car with A/C, I'd be leary of the 3.50 final drive in a car that heavy with a 2.2. Yeah, I know it's a 16v, but off-boost with the taller final drive would be horrible, especially if a laggier turbo is added to the mix.

Rule of thumb on the 3.50 final drive swap - 2.5s and/or light cars love them. 2.2 Daytonas or heavier will be dogs if street driven, especially with A/C. I don't know if anybody has tried one on a heavy 16V car yet.

Hope this helps,
Warren

slasky
12-23-2005, 02:26 PM
I have the phantom grip extreme in my charger. It came in the 555 that I bought from FWD. It seems to work well in my car. After about 2000 miles my car still spins both wheels.

TurboGLH
12-23-2005, 03:42 PM
Nice write up. So, if I understand correctly, the only main shaft and ring gear/ carrier I can use it from a 91 A523?


That's correct, only 91 523's got the big spline input shaft and still had the 3.50 f/d.

1FastCSX289
12-25-2005, 05:45 PM
I think I may stick with a stock final drive ratio.....but we'll see. To be decided.

For CHristmas I just got a new autometer 30 PSI boost gauge, summit racing a/f ratio gauge and an FWD A-pillar pod for the Spirit.

Heres the gift I bought myself on ebay. The guy says his company buys the spearco cores and welds on their own tanks. This cooler is supposed to flow enough for 585 HP. It looks pretty darn good for the money.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8024923883

BTB
12-25-2005, 07:53 PM
Ive got the phantom grip in my car, and it works great.

1FastCSX289
12-27-2005, 12:23 AM
That's correct, only 91 523's got the big spline input shaft and still had the 3.50 f/d.


Chris, is Cliff your brother or father? He did a bunch of work on my car before I owned it. The previous owner had a turbo and a bunch of other stuff done by Cliff. Nice work.

TurboGLH
12-27-2005, 12:50 AM
Chris, is Cliff your brother or father? He did a bunch of work on my car before I owned it. The previous owner had a turbo and a bunch of other stuff done by Cliff. Nice work.

He's my dad. Glad to hear that you like the car, who's car did you buy?

slasky
12-27-2005, 01:00 AM
He's my dad. Glad to hear that you like the car, who's car did you buy?
Mike AKA moparmadness.

Your dad built my 555 with a phantom grip extreme. He did an awesome job.:)

1FastCSX289
12-27-2005, 12:05 PM
Mike AKA moparmadness.

Your dad built my 555 with a phantom grip extreme. He did an awesome job.:)


Yes, Mike, AKA moparmadness over on TD.com traded me for my GLH clone. It wasnt running when we traded and he didnt want to mess with it, so I traded my running GLH. The R/T was MUCH nice, but the fact that it wasnt running made it a fair trade (kinda).

MOPAR2YA
12-29-2005, 02:31 AM
Heres my .02 cents worth. 400 reliable wheel horsepower, will need a bit bigger turbo than a T3T4 50 trim, and the stock rods or good, but would have them cryo treated and stress relieved to add some additional margin of error. The 50 trim can move about 45lb/minute of air whis is about 450 crank h.p. and thats running it hard. Larry J used a much larger turbo to get his results. Ive managed 421 wheel h.p., but have additional herd and manifold work done.

The hybrid is a excellant street/strip turbo as it has good spool and good power, certainly a larger turbo makes more power but requires more rpm to spool it. Anyway weve chatted about his in the past, let me know if we can help you further.

1FastCSX289
12-29-2005, 09:50 AM
Wallace, youve been a good help in this so far, thanks. Not sure I understand you. You say to make 400 whp reliably, the 50 trim is too small? But when you say hybrid, you mean the afforementioned 50 trim, right? Do you think this is going to be my best choice? Or is there another step up in the HP department without sacrificing major driveability?


Also, I do plan on running a set of your cams and also alcohol or nitrous......

MOPAR2YA
12-30-2005, 01:24 AM
Theres alot in considering the turbo as Im sure you know. The 50 trim spools very well but you have to run it pretty hard to get the airflow to make the power. When you run them hard the turbo becomes inefficient and start pumping hot air, which can lead to detonation or reduced timing.

I really like the 50 trim T3T4 for a all around turbo, if your a mainly street car a 50 trim is a good choice, if you plan on more track time than most street cars then a higher flowing turbo may be better. Typically the higher flowing turbos require more rpm, which is working the engine a bit harder. You have to do a good amount of supporting mods like porting etc to get the most out of the 50 trim simply bacause you need everything it has to meet the power level you mentioned. A larger turbo you can get away with a bit less work because you have a higer volume turbo.

The cams will help spool and add some power, but alcohol and NOS are 2 different things, alcohol is a fuel with excellent cooling characteristics but doesnt make power like NOS does. Are you looking for 400 with the NOS?

Directconnection
12-30-2005, 11:01 PM
Heres my .02 cents worth. 400 reliable wheel horsepower, will need a bit bigger turbo than a T3T4 50 trim, and the stock rods or good, but would have them cryo treated and stress relieved to add some additional margin of error.

Cryo treating? Sales pitch or speaking from experience?

If you're looking for 400whp, I'd make sure the longblock is rebuilt professionally. New ARPs and everything machined to spec. This is the best insurance.

green IROC R/T
12-31-2005, 10:59 AM
Wallace, what kind of head and manifold work did you do? 400WHP is my goal as well or I should say getting consistant high 11's is more what I am looking for. I am using the 50 trim( as you reccomended :) ) and ran 12.7 with 20PSI of boost. I went to 25PSI but the clutch slipped- taking care of that right now. Also besides fixing the clutch problem I am installing a quaife, cutting the balance shaft chain, and also discovered a vacuum leak the size of my small finger. One other thing I did was to install an MSD dis2 with rev limiter so I can get a better launch and more consistancy. Also planning on using Bogart racing wheels instead of the heavy stockers. Hoping these mods will get me close to my goal.

MOPAR2YA
12-31-2005, 03:01 PM
Its not exactly a sales pitch, but everyone Ive talked with including SMP has had positive results when cryo treating. I dont care if I do the service for him or if someone else does it, but cryo treating will help with the durability of the rebuild. I dont recommend things I dont have confidence in, often times I turn away work or talk people out of something that wont benefit them or isnt the best bang for the buck. Had I known more about cryo treating when I did my rebuild I'd have done it and not be biting my nails about turning up the power now.

I ported my head and manifolds with thermal coating on the exhaust side. The stock R/T head can support a ton of power w/o porting, but IMO when using a smaller turbo need everything more efficient to get everything out of the turbo, whereas a larger turbo you can use "brute force" instead of finesse.

slasky
01-01-2006, 04:19 PM
Sean,

I would do what ever Wallace reccomends. I have seen his car and he consistantley puts down big horsepower. I have also seen some of his parts that he sells and the are very well made.

1FastCSX289
01-02-2006, 12:17 AM
Sean,

I would do what ever Wallace reccomends. I have seen his car and he consistantley puts down big horsepower. I have also seen some of his parts that he sells and the are very well made.


Ive been picking that up over the past few weeks of talking with him:thumb:

1FastCSX289
01-02-2006, 12:23 AM
The cams will help spool and add some power, but alcohol and NOS are 2 different things, alcohol is a fuel with excellent cooling characteristics but doesnt make power like NOS does. Are you looking for 400 with the NOS?


Thanks for the advice, Wallace. The 50 trim is at the top of the list right now.

I dont know if I am going to use the nitrous right now. I built a 383 stroker motor all set up with nitrous in my WS6 and I love it. I really just like the power at the push of a button. I suppose I am looking for at least 400 whp any way I can get it and I dont mind using nitrous at all if that will make it easier on my budget and/or streetability of the car.

slasky
01-02-2006, 01:23 AM
I suppose I am looking for at least 400 whp any way I can get it and I dont mind using nitrous at all if that will make it easier on my budget and/or streetability of the car.
Wow only 400 whp? How will you get used to such a low amount after driving the WS6 for so long?

1FastCSX289
01-03-2006, 02:06 PM
Wow only 400 whp? How will you get used to such a low amount after driving the WS6 for so long?


The fact that the car is 600 lbs lighter will make it nearly as fast. I think it is the torque of the stroker motor I will miss the most.

Aries_Turbo
01-03-2006, 03:29 PM
^^^^ what did the WS6 have torquewise? these motors are pretty darn torquey. :)

I myself would go with something a little bigger on the compressor side than a 50 trim just to lower the intake temps and to not to have to run so much boost to get 400whp. id give chris wright a call (turbosunleashed) and talk about something with a GT compressor wheel with a T3 turbine more akin to the precision turbos. the GT wheels are much better than the old school T4 wheels.

Brian

1FastCSX289
01-04-2006, 08:36 AM
^^^^ what did the WS6 have torquewise? these motors are pretty darn torquey. :)


The car put down 560 ft/lbs to the wheels on a mustang dyno. (thats well over 600 ft/lbs on a dynojet.) I have a hard time hooking it up on full slicks and the powereband is unreal on that car......pulls hard to 7k.



I myself would go with something a little bigger on the compressor side than a 50 trim just to lower the intake temps and to not to have to run so much boost to get 400whp. id give chris wright a call (turbosunleashed) and talk about something with a GT compressor wheel with a T3 turbine more akin to the precision turbos. the GT wheels are much better than the old school T4 wheels.

Brian

When the time comes, I will be giving Chris a call. Thanks.

Aries_Turbo
01-04-2006, 01:49 PM
sweet! thats some crazy torque. that was with the nitrous right?

yeah you really dont need a full GT series turbo (ball bearing center section and a 1200+$ pricetag to go with it.) a T3/T4 utilizing GT series compressor wheels is plenty.

im just wondering what the "in between turbo" is going to be... something between a 50 trim and a SC6152S that doesnt surge. if you want the power and dont care about having lots of boost before 3900rpms then the 6152 is fine and will make a wild ride.

the SC6152S uses the GT35R 82mm/56trim compressor wheel which is rated by garrett for 600hp. it flows 60lb/min max but does flow 45-50lb min pretty close to the center of the map for good efficiency.

the GT30R 76mm/56trim compressor wheel is rated for 500hp by garrett and flows~52lb min max but around 45-50lb/min much closer to the center of the map than the T04E 50 trim but is smaller than the SC6152S compressor wheel for better spool.

the GT30R 76.2mm compressor wheel seems like the best bet for your application. it'll spool faster than the GT35R and still has enough oomph to make 500crank hp.

Im thinking of building a 2.0L DOHC neon sometime in the future and thats the turbo that I want to use. i doubt ill have full boost before 4k but im going to rev it to 8k (built and balanced motor) so i'll still have a 4000rpm powerband. :)

Brian

1FastCSX289
01-05-2006, 09:30 AM
The GT30R does sound like a good choice. The TIII can rev pretty well, so I dont think rpm's will be hard to come by. DO you think this turbo will lag too much for the street though?

Aries_Turbo
01-06-2006, 01:41 AM
ask aaron miller about the lag on the GT30R (he's on here... i forget his username)

i dont think it would be too bad though... its gotta be better than the SC6152S and that thing is at 3900rpm which isnt the worst.

id either go for a full GT30R or a T3/T4 from chris utilizing the GT30R compressor wheel... the one that garrett calls the 76mm.... not the 71mm.

Brian

Aries_Turbo
01-06-2006, 01:45 AM
oh.... aarons username is 8valves

cordes
01-06-2006, 01:52 AM
oh.... aarons username is 8valves

yeah, and he spooed that thing pretty will with them too. I would immagine a lotus head would be a boon for the spool of that turbo. Although his setup was designed to flow some air.