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The S is Silent
02-05-2006, 05:40 PM
I want to upgrade to braided stialness steel lines for my charger because the fuel rail and the FPR will already have the capabilities for AN fittings.

What do I have to get, and were can I get fittings? To adapt the stock hard lines, do I get flare fittings, and a coupler to attach it to the stainless line? And what is an AN fitting anyways???

TurbododgePirate
02-05-2006, 05:47 PM
I'd like to know as well. I have some very nice 3/8" SS fuel line in the basement, but have no idea how to attach it to the pump, and the AFPR. Oh, I have a double flaring tool as well.

87glhs232
02-05-2006, 06:47 PM
http://www.chassisshop.com (http://www.chassisshop.com/)

Page 126 of their catalog has a diagram of a hard line flare and fittings. The pages before and after have various parts, lines and other stuff needed. There is also a AN to SAE conversion table somewhere in there.

EDIT: I've used Earl's fittings before for auto tranny lines. Great stuff. A little pricey for your average TD'er, but it's highly recommended. I'm also collecting parts to AN my fuel system.

The S is Silent
02-05-2006, 07:34 PM
Awesome catalog. I've glanced through it, and it's just the thing I need. How do you attach the fittings to the ends of the braided stainless lines though? I thought they had to be clamped on or something like that.

edit...nevermind, I think I found it at the end. It looks like the fitting grabs it.

87glhs232
02-05-2006, 08:12 PM
Awesome catalog. I've glanced through it, and it's just the thing I need. How do you attach the fittings to the ends of the braided stainless lines though? I thought they had to be clamped on or something like that.

edit...nevermind, I think I found it at the end. It looks like the fitting grabs it.

Yep. It's a compression fitting. :thumb:

The S is Silent
02-05-2006, 08:53 PM
Are the fittings shown on page 4 of the Earl's plumbing catalog flare to compression fittings? So I'd flare the tubing, and the compression end would hold the stainless steel tubing?

The S is Silent
02-06-2006, 01:07 AM
I just looked through the catalog at what I think I need to do stainless lines with a TU billet fuel rail...

about 5 feet of line (not sure) - $40.95 @ $8.19/ft
3x -6 AN straight connectors (for the fuel feed and return lines, and rail supply)- $23.61 @ $7.87/ea
180* -6 AN connector for return end of the rail - $24.33
-6 AN to 3/8 in pipe thread for universal FPR - $20.20 @ $10.10/ea

Using that company, it would cost $110 to do tubing...if the fuel rail has female AN fittings. About $120 if not. This is all with billet fittings.

turbovanman²
02-06-2006, 01:10 AM
I just looked through the catalog at what I think I need to do stainless lines with a TU billet fuel rail...

about 5 feet of line (not sure) - $40.95 @ $8.19/ft
3x -6 AN straight connectors (for the fuel feed and return lines, and rail supply)- $23.61 @ $7.87/ea
180* -6 AN connector for return end of the rail - $24.33
-6 AN to 3/8 in pipe thread for universal FPR - $20.20 @ $10.10/ea

Using that company, it would cost $110 to do tubing...if the fuel rail has female AN fittings. About $120 if not. This is all with billet fittings.

Have you looked into the lines that have threaded fittings already on. I buy mine like this and then you just buy one fitting to hook up to whatever your hooking up to. I did that for my oil line and fuel pressure guage. Earls makes the line.

The S is Silent
02-06-2006, 01:22 AM
Have you looked into the lines that have threaded fittings already on. I buy mine like this and then you just buy one fitting to hook up to whatever your hooking up to. I did that for my oil line and fuel pressure guage. Earls makes the line.

I didn't see anything like that in the catalog. The largest line I have seen in the catalog like that is an -3 AN fitting. Where can I get -6 AN tubing with the fittings already attached?

turbovanman²
02-06-2006, 01:26 AM
Earls makes the lines, I used Earls -4 for the oil and fuel lines and they make other sizes. If you look at this pic, you will see the fitting on the line-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Strutbar-rightend.jpg

Chris W
02-06-2006, 01:45 AM
I just looked through the catalog at what I think I need to do stainless lines with a TU billet fuel rail...

about 5 feet of line (not sure) - $40.95 @ $8.19/ft
3x -6 AN straight connectors (for the fuel feed and return lines, and rail supply)- $23.61 @ $7.87/ea
180* -6 AN connector for return end of the rail - $24.33
-6 AN to 3/8 in pipe thread for universal FPR - $20.20 @ $10.10/ea

Using that company, it would cost $110 to do tubing...if the fuel rail has female AN fittings. About $120 if not. This is all with billet fittings.

Matt,

We now carry all those items in stock including the unique fittings that go in the Accufab Universal AFPR. Our pricing is competitive and I will try to add the items tonight. I won't have pictures for a couple of days though.

Chris-TU

The S is Silent
02-06-2006, 02:03 AM
Matt,

We now carry all those items in stock including the unique fittings that go in the Accufab Universal AFPR. Our pricing is competitive and I will try to add the items tonight. I won't have pictures for a couple of days though.

Chris-TU

Thanks Chris,

I ordered the fuel rail and AFPR today. I'll keep an eye out for the lines.

What are the inlet and outlet ports on the Fuel rails? Are they AN fittings, or NPT?

edit: I see fuel rail accessories...almost there. :thumb:

Chris W
02-06-2006, 02:48 AM
Thanks Chris,

I ordered the fuel rail and AFPR today. I'll keep an eye out for the lines.

What are the inlet and outlet ports on the Fuel rails? Are they AN fittings, or NPT?

edit: I see fuel rail accessories...almost there. :thumb:

Hi Matt,

All accessories are up there now. I haven't gotten around to taking all the pics yet but they are all currently in stock. Fuel rail ends are 3/8 NPT to -6AN. Be sure to order the unique AFPR fittings required for the Accufab Universal AFPR (see photo). They are impossible to find but we did.:thumb:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17232#post17232

Thanks for your continued support!

Chris-TU

turbovanman²
02-06-2006, 03:11 AM
Thats some wicked pricing, even with my killer discount, your way cheaper on the lines, :thumb:

The S is Silent
02-06-2006, 03:44 PM
Would I get into trouble using brass or steel fittings in the fuel rail?

Chris W
02-06-2006, 05:11 PM
Would I get into trouble using brass or steel fittings in the fuel rail?

I would stick with the aluminum since we have all know what steel plugs do in an aluminum TIII cylinder head. Besides, some steel/brass fittings use different angles and won't seal correctly.

Chris-TU

giftedmopar
02-06-2006, 08:10 PM
I didn't read the whole thread so I don't know if you are looking to replace the line all the way back to the tank. If not you may want to come off of your 5/16 fuel feed tube (which is plenty big). To do this you will need a -5 tube nut, -5 sleeve and a -5 to -6 male to male. You will need to cut the tube as straight as possible to get the best flare. I cut mine just past the first turn after removing it from the car and making sure there was no fuel in it. Slip the nut, then the sleeve on and then flare it. The -5 to -6 fitting will compress the tube sleeve and flare for a nice leak free high pressure fit. From that I was able to determine where to cut the SS line. I also included a block in mine for a pressure gauge. Make sure you wrap that line tightly in some duct tape before you cut it or you will frey it and spend the next few hours trying to get the other fittings on it while pricking your fingers until they are raw. I don’t recommend a hack saw either. I used Aeroquip aluminum fittings I got from FWDperformance.com along with their billet fuel rail. PM me if you want the Aeroquip numbers or some pics, I think I still have that info. Good luck.

87glhs232
02-06-2006, 08:34 PM
Make sure you wrap that line tightly in some duct tape before you cut it or you will frey it and spend the next few hours trying to get the other fittings on it while pricking your fingers until they are raw. I don’t recommend a hack saw either

Some good advice there. I thought about that, but forgot to mention it. I learned the hard way about taping it up. If you do use a hacksaw, get a new blade.

cordes
02-06-2006, 08:42 PM
Some good advice there. I thought about that, but forgot to mention it. I learned the hard way about taping it up. If you do use a hacksaw, get a new blade.

I just usewd some masking tape and a new hacksaw blade myself. The guy at the hydrolics place that cut the line used masking tape, and his cut looked good enough to me. A lot easier to remove too.

The S is Silent
02-06-2006, 09:04 PM
Thanks for all the info guys. I saw the bit about taping before you can and will definitely do that. As for lines and fittings, there is a place in Greenville that all the racers go to to get fittings and lines. I'm gonna see what I can get there before I spend any money on this.

Or I was thinking of going through here: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

shelbyplaya
02-06-2006, 11:08 PM
i used -6 for my fuel feed lines and just clamped them on with fuel line clamps. i'm gonna redo them this year and use the ricer ends to make it look cleaner on the clamps

WVRampage
02-06-2006, 11:21 PM
The AN fitings use a 37* flare on them as the brass ones use a 45* flare. I think snap on makes the tool but you can probably get one cheaper from wag aero they also sell fitings for aircraft I think the prices arnt real bad they also have every size you could ever imagine.

cordes
02-06-2006, 11:31 PM
The AN fitings use a 37* flare on them as the brass ones use a 45* flare. I think snap on makes the tool but you can probably get one cheaper from wag aero they also sell fitings for aircraft I think the prices arnt real bad they also have every size you could ever imagine.


Are AN and JIC fittings the same except for the material they are made of? THey both use the 37* flare correct? The JIC fittings are much cheaper.

WVRampage
02-06-2006, 11:41 PM
Are AN and JIC fittings the same except for the material they are made of? THey both use the 37* flare correct? The JIC fittings are much cheaper.

I dont have any exprience with the jic fitings I was always told AN was 37* every thing else was 45* becasue of safty on aircraft only AN could be used but I may be wrong it might be something to look into.

cordes
02-07-2006, 12:05 AM
I dont have any exprience with the jic fitings I was always told AN was 37* every thing else was 45* becasue of safty on aircraft only AN could be used but I may be wrong it might be something to look into.

I was under the impression that JIC fittings were steel and that AN fittings were aluminum, but that both were 37* fittings. I thought that they would not be compatable due to the differnence in hardness.

Looks like at least the 1st part of my belief holds ture.

http://www.prochem.com.au/pdf/Threaded%20Products%202002.pdf

WVRampage
02-07-2006, 12:18 AM
I was under the impression that JIC fittings were steel and that AN fittings were aluminum, but that both were 37* fittings. I thought that they would not be compatable due to the differnence in hardness.

Looks like at least the 1st part of my belief holds ture.

http://www.prochem.com.au/pdf/Threaded%20Products%202002.pdf

Thanks I was unaware of that but the part with the flaring tool holds true you would need to get a 37* flaring tool for a proper seal, Now fot the difference in the material,personaly I like to use aluminum in aluminum so that the thermal expanion is the same(less chance for leakage). Also I think using the aluminum flare nut on stainless will gauld up when trying to remove.

87glhs232
02-07-2006, 12:28 AM
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/12/ANfittings/index.php

Interesting read.

EDIT: You can only read the 1st page (drat!) but it answers your JIC/AN compatability questions.

WVRampage
02-07-2006, 12:39 AM
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/12/ANfittings/index.php

Interesting read.

EDIT: You can only read the 1st page (drat!) but it answers you JIC/An compatability questions.

Good information I havent delt with all that since high school in my aviation maintenance class. The first page should mostly answer any questions a person would have. And as some one said ealyer tape the hose before you cut it or you will be cursing yourself alot.

87glhs232
02-07-2006, 12:40 AM
tape the hose before you cut it or you will be cursing yourself alot.

I sure did!

WVRampage
02-07-2006, 12:42 AM
I sure did!

Hurts the hands alot too.

cordes
02-07-2006, 12:50 AM
So, you can apparently mix and match the fittings according to the article?

WVRampage
02-07-2006, 12:51 AM
So, you can apparently mix and match the fittings according to the article?

Looks like you can

The S is Silent
02-12-2006, 01:35 AM
Has anybody ever used superstock hose? It's silicone based, and I can do the fuel system in my car for almost 60% of what braided stainless would cost.

What do ya'll think? They are silicone hoses, they attach to AN barbs, and have little sleeves that slide down and lock the hoses in place.

turbovanman²
02-12-2006, 07:47 PM
Has anybody ever used superstock hose? It's silicone based, and I can do the fuel system in my car for almost 60% of what braided stainless would cost.

What do ya'll think? They are silicone hoses, they attach to AN barbs, and have little sleeves that slide down and lock the hoses in place.

If your going to the track, read the rules, mine and most have a length limit on it, I think mine is 12 inchs max.

If you do use rubber hose, make sure its properly secured so it doesn't rub thru.

Just read the article, durrrrr, it says what I just said, lol!

The S is Silent
02-12-2006, 08:53 PM
If your going to the track, read the rules, mine and most have a length limit on it, I think mine is 12 inchs max.

If you do use rubber hose, make sure its properly secured so it doesn't rub thru.

Just read the article, durrrrr, it says what I just said, lol!

I never thought about rules about how much rubber line you can run at a time. I guess I'll just grin and bear the cost of the braided stainless...I mean, it isn't going to be that much more.

87glhs232
02-12-2006, 09:14 PM
It looks cool and gives you piece of mind knowing your not dumping fuel when the motor torques and stress' the rubber fuel line. Yeah...been there.