107.4 mph @ 5.8psi high elevation :D

[Ondonti]

(timeslip pic @ bottom)
So I fixed some plug fouling problems.....
drove to the track (still breaking in motor :P ) Longest drive Ive ever had the car on....by far. About 50 miles.

Get there, Find out my hub spacers dont fit (too big for my tiny 5x100 pattern). So that means no slicks :( :( :(
I call my friend (bansheenut) and have him bring his drag radials. I run them @ 13-14psi.
I had a lot of drama getting the car to the staging lines (vacuum cap blew off on freeway and I didnt notice till I drove into the staging lanes, shifter linkage messed up 2nd time I got into staging but I was able to push it back together :P

Never done a burnout before, but these were drag radials so I wanted to warm them up. I was basically letting off right as they started spinning so I didnt get much of a burnout my first try. 2nd try I did but it didnt help.

I just sat at the line my first run then took off. I really wish I had the right spacers cause I needed my slicks.
1st gear = no traction. so after i hit the limiter I go into 2nd. hit the limiter in 2nd gear (tires spinning)
Ive never really driven this car before so I just automatically shifted into 3rd even though my car is still traveling really slow (no traction in 1st or 2nd = not moving fast yet).

3rd gear bogs bad. I didnt datalog but I think rpms dropped to maybe 2800 rpms which is not helpful for going fast. I do get traction though :(....well until the turbo spools again. Not sure if staying in 2nd spinning tires longer would have helped. Like I said, I have no practice racing the car. Rather just run slicks and not worry so much.
RPMS get up to 3200ish and then the party starts again. Hit limiter in 3rd, shift to 4th, zoom.

2nd run was very similar except I almost went into the wall in 3rd gear when the turbo spooled after the same stupid bog.

I forgot my helmet so they let me run 1 more time and then finally made me go home.

Remember I am @ 4400 feet elevation so the car is a lot slower up hear. SRT-4's only trap about 95mph on an excellent run.

I need to find the right spacers and then I think with traction in at least 2nd gear, I wont bog 3rd and my traps should improve a lot(obviously E.T.'s will improve).
A lot of people thought the turbo wasnt spooling (everyone who talked to me, friends, including the track announcer) but it was just that boost in 1st and 2nd gear (obviously I can get boost in 3rd then) was causing me to short shift into 3rd and bog.
Transmission seems to have chewed up a bearing on my drive home so I will have to get my OBX LSD installed in another transmission.

I am not sure if I will race again with just the slicks to see how the Trap speeds improve, or if I will also install my custom intake manifold (short runner huge plenum, tested on my n/a SOHC daily driver Spirit and it was amazing). I really enjoy bench racing and then proving it so I sorta want to try them separately. I think the intake manifold will rock.

This is all on about 5.8psi boost (.4 bar). I lose about 2.2psi of atmosphere up here so my car should behave more like 7.8psi @ sea level.

Notice I pick up 28mph on the top end with only 5.5 psi boost wee. Probably some of that huge increase is the 3rd gear bog. When my spirit was turbocharged I didnt have traction problems and my 1/8th mile trap was 82 on 5.8psi (only picked up 19mph) so my benchracing tells me There is plenty left in this setup without using 35psi boost :P
I really want mid/low 12's on .4 bar (5.8psi) @ high elevation. Flying to see my parents so no sea level passes this year. I think I would pick up 4-5mph down there + my traps would go up just from not bogging 3rd if I had my slicks on.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9318/img1934kh9.jpg

[BadAssPerformance]

Sounds like you're making some power, time to get some traction :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Not bad at all, your like me, you just can't give up, :eyebrows:

[bn880]

What was that slow thing in the right lane? :p

[turbovanman²]

What was that slow thing in the right lane? :p

Maybe but look at his reaction time, Brents sleeping while the guy is gone, :lol:

[bn880]

He was just teasing him :D

[Directconnection]

Good job Brent. Now all the BS and hard work is sarting to pay off.

Only problem is... it's still slower than my VNT:evil: just kidding.

Seriously, I know what it's like to put alot into something and it giving you fits when it's done. In the end, it all sorted out pretty much exactly as planned for my Shadow, but now it's getting something much better and I am preparing for "tear my hair out time" coming this fall!

[Ondonti]

Maybe but look at his reaction time, Brents sleeping while the guy is gone, :lol:
It was my first run and I hadnt staged a car in about a year so I decided screw it, I dont need to leave on green (the 2.3 r/t was actually my first pass).
I was going to try again this friday with slicks to see if I can get the trap speeds over 110 with out the 3rd gear bog but I think I am pulling the transmission and having some work done. The bad idler gear bearing finally took a crap and probably nuked the shaft too. IM gonna try to mix and match that transmissions 3.50 final drive with the later 3.77 gears and then get my OBX installed in that transmission.
Im not really sure whats gonna happen yet. My machine shop http://www.strasburg-racing.com/index.html owner said to call his buddy so I did..found out he is only rebuilding part time and is working at my university so he can just come by friday to pick up my transmissions.

The real pain is that I have to get my clutch rebuilt for a large spline imput shaft.

I really wanted to race but I dont trust the trans to drive 100 miles again.
Will probably be "down" till early august. Hoping to have the trans done by the time I come back from visiting Seattle (flying there). Missing a lot of the racing season here but oh well. I guess its really only about 2 weeks.

[bansheenut420]

Maybe but look at his reaction time, Brents sleeping while the guy is gone, :lol:

The guy may have been gone at the light, but Ondonti cought him by 1/8 mile! :thumb: His car was the crowd fav of the night! Props to Ondonti! :nod: Car sounded like it was going to take flight!

[turbovanman²]

Any Pacific Raceway runs this year?

[GLHSKEN]

The guy may have been gone at the light, but Ondonti cought him by 1/8 mile! :thumb: His car was the crowd fav of the night! Props to Ondonti! :nod: Car sounded like it was going to take flight!

Congrats Ondonti... Been a long time coming!!! Nice to finally run a car you've been working so long on!!!

Crowd favorite is a fun experience... Lots of mifffed looks from the mustang/camaro crowd.

[Frank]

What was that slow thing in the right lane? :p

Simon's van!

[turbovanman²]

Simon's van!


Oh, your sooooooo funny, at least mine ran, :lol: :p

[Subliminal]

Simon's van!

Bwahahahahahahaha

Ahhhhh...that was teh funny.

[Ondonti]

Any Pacific Raceway runs this year?

No, I'm flying to Seattle next week.
I think next year if I make the law school here I will try to trailer my car up to Seattle in the summer.

I pulled the motor trans today. Last night I wanted to go for 1 last spin and I now have 2 more injector wires shorting on themselves somewhere in the harnesses (4 & 6 FLOODING!!!). Couldnt find it so I gave up since I had to pull the motor anyways.

When I drained the trans oil it was like someone had dumped silver glitter in the transmission.
Hope the OBX is okay.
I think this is a sign that the reverse idler gear is dead.
I was trying to get it pulled out in the 100 deg sun + driveway so my trans guy could pick it up but he had gone home early when I finished @ 4:30 (about 2 hours of work).


Im thinking of going with the 3.50 final drive. the longer 3.77 gears except using the longer 3.29 1st gear from my 3.50 trans.

Anyone have a jeep 4.0 TPS and pigtail?
I want to put the motor back in the car with the custom intake manifold and have a working TPS (in the chrysler voltage range)

[Ondonti]

Congrats Ondonti... Been a long time coming!!! Nice to finally run a car you've been working so long on!!!

Crowd favorite is a fun experience... Lots of mifffed looks from the mustang/camaro crowd.
since this is high elevation those cars all run 15's and 16's anyways lol

[Ondonti]

Well Im cobbling together a transmission with my OBX.
Transmission rebuilder flaked out and had my transmissions in the back of his truck for 3 weeks untouched.
Got them back yesterday and I went to work swapping 3.77 ring gears and having a friend drill and tap an oil drain for my spare trans.

The 3.50 trans that lost the bearing......well its got some damage done thats for sure. there was about an inch of metal on the magnet after only 100 miles (it croaked after about 80 miles)

Pulled apart this spare 70k trans and almost no metal on the magnet. Wee.

Im going to just swap the differential carrier housings that have been shimed for the OBX into the good trans. I know thats not a good practice but there is only about a month left in the racing season

Going back together with RPW (austrailia) cam gears and my custom intake manifold.


The worst thing for me now is that I have to get the clutch rebuilt with a large imput shaft hub :( :(
I hope that doesnt take too long when I go to the six states clutch rebuilder in salt lake Monday.

I think Im gonna set the cams advanced 6 degrees (currently the stock cam gears are retarded 2 degrees).
My hp peak is probalby 500-600 rpms higher then my rev limiter so...

I figure I can dial in a lot of cam advance and lose ZERO top end because that fictional top end is well above my rev limiter so it is a non issue.
Rev limiter issue and complete EMS is an issue for the fall/winter.

[Vigo]

man, after what seems like forever of talking to brent about this long-toothed project, i get offline for a month and now hes got times and everything. 107@5psi:eyebrows: thats significantly faster than the other turbo 3.0 setups ive read about that usually trap ~100 @5psi at low elevation. a lot to be said for your setup considering you are still running stock 3.0 ecu iirc.

got pics of car the way it looked on raceday or thereabout? all ive seen is on stands with the intercooler hanging out of the front, heh.

congrats:evil:

[Speedeuphoria]

whats the rev limit your going for later when you get the MS on?

[Ondonti]

7000ish. Depends one valve float or lifter collapse I guess. Seems to be pretty untested territory.
I know I can make power above 7k but frank will tell you the valvetrain needs work for 7.5k.
I think my threshold is well below that because of my cams. Of course, its still untested by anyone who actually shares information.

Forgive the logo on the picture. I didnt take the picture or post it on the internet. Bansheenuts camera. I wish he had been able to find the battery for his camcorder.

I want 110+ on 5psi @ high elevation.
Got a crapload of work to do and I dont think Im breaking the sabbath this week :P
http://www.turbododge.com/dodge_pictures/files/4/3/9/7/Brentscar008.jpg

[GLHSKEN]

Logo is of no concern here.

[Pandemoniac]

:lol: Spammer!!!

Good time, when I got a 9.1 1/8 mile it only ended up with a 14.3 with low 90's for me. Of course that was with an automatic and and unported head.

[Vigo]

if we were having a 'guess the tire pressure' contest my guess would be 1.5...psi. :P

get spacers yo.

[GLHSKEN]

:lol: Spammer!!!

Good time, when I got a 9.1 1/8 mile it only ended up with a 14.3 with low 90's for me. Of course that was with an automatic and and unported head.


LOL spamming my own board... I must really suck ;)

[Pandemoniac]

speaking of Brent of course...

[Ondonti]

i think they were at 14 psi.

I cut up the inside of the spacers to make them fit on my hubs a few weeks ago.
Just need to put car back together...and get the clutch rebuilt monday with a larger imput shaft setup.
I guess until thats done (i hope they dont have to order parts) I will do the cam gears, intake swap and reassemble the differential housing.

I want to make it to the races cause there is a local TD guy who just started racing @ the track in his charger (eric) and I think I would be good competition for him and my buddies sc61 sr20 nx2000 is on the road again and ready for some track time.
I want to try to keep up with them or stay close on 5psi.

[Ondonti]

guess Im picking up a solid disc 3 puck from clutchnet because none of the vendors answer their phones.
Thanks wink!!!

Couldnt rebuild the clutch and be "reasonable" ....the guys there were tryign to cobble somthing together and that made me gag so I called up wink and had him help me find the clutchnet clutch on the internet and found that they can ship it out tomorrow (instead of 2 weeks for a cobbled together clutch). ....or instead of whenever the vendors feel like answering their phone or returning a call (which has NEVER happened before for me).

[Ubmbass]

So is your car ever going to be at the track again this year?

[Ondonti]

I think so :P
Friday might be a pipe dream as I dont know if my hood will pass a real inspection. (or i might be lazy and not put car back together...or clutch might not come when it is supposed to)

I want to go to the next mignights cause I think andy will be there. If he is running well he should whip me cause I dont plan on running more then 5psi but if he cant beat me then I can kid around with him lol.

Edit
Called and clutch shipped a day late so it comes friday before Noon. I dont think thats enough time to get the car together for the ET's considering I have not done the paperwork etc.

[SwiftTech]

Nice runs! I noticed your runs were made 11:30pm and 12:30am, how late do they let you race till? Around here they shut down the racing and kick everyone out at 10pm:mad:

[Ondonti]

These are the "midnight drags" after the street legal races.

They do kick cars out for sound on the late night races. Strip manager complained that my car is loud but I have a full exhaust and 2 mufflers in series so unless they actually test me and i fail, they cant do crap. When they are being bitchy they kick out any car where they cant see a tailpipe who they want to piss off.

[Wink]

guess Im picking up a solid disc 3 puck from clutchnet because none of the vendors answer their phones.
Thanks wink!!!

Couldnt rebuild the clutch and be "reasonable" ....the guys there were tryign to cobble somthing together and that made me gag so I called up wink and had him help me find the clutchnet clutch on the internet and found that they can ship it out tomorrow (instead of 2 weeks for a cobbled together clutch). ....or instead of whenever the vendors feel like answering their phone or returning a call (which has NEVER happened before for me).



Glad to have been of service.

Yea, I seem to know where to get certain things, eh?

[Ondonti]

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/2214/img1983js7.jpg

[Ondonti]

Degreed the cams @ 102 ATDC

Built motor looks a lot prettier now.

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5798/img1986mh9.jpg

[turbovanman²]

Do have stocks in velcro? :lol:

Seriously, get her done man, lets see this thing run some serious times, :nod:

[Vigo]

i still dont see the velcro... hehe.

[Ondonti]

yeah I dont understand the velcro thing.

Im not getting to much done as my spirits TPS voltage problems are killing me and I think i gave the same problem to my duster.

engine off, key on
reading 5 volts @ the violet/white tps POWER wire (also feeds the MAP sensor)
4.58 volts @ the orange blue tps signal wire

Sweeping the throttle makes no difference.

I just reattached the positive batter wire to my duster and I found the same issue.
I am freaking confused and its making me feel sick as this all makes no sense @ all and now I seem to have screwed up both cars.

the spirits symptoms are that it drives the same with or without the TPS sensor plugged in and it seems to me that in my previous wiring tests on a TPS the signal wire (orange/blue) should be about .70 volts when closed and 3.6 volts when WOT but it just reads 4.58 all the time.

I even cut the signal wire near the ECU and the 4.58 volts is coming from the ECU.
I have tried like 4 different ecu's now and always the same issue. I am totally confused.

[87turbodance]

Sounds like you need to accelerate your MS install. Shouldn't take more than a weekend if your stock wiring is all there. Do it!! Do it!!

[turbovanman²]

Wow, you guys dont' think out of the box.

Velcro is used for what? to make things simple to remove, so the number of times Brent has removed his engine-get it? sheesh.

[Ondonti]

Sounds like you need to accelerate your MS install. Shouldn't take more than a weekend if your stock wiring is all there. Do it!! Do it!!

Well my DD isnt getting ms............and I seem to have made both cars sick now (or damanged all 4 of my ecu's)

[Vigo]

so the 4.58v is coming from the signal wire on the ecu, not from the sensor itself? thats weird. otherwise i would just say shorted tps but this one is weirder.

[Ondonti]

yup. thats why I am totally freaked out. If its an ECU problem then I have damaged all my ECU's by testing them on the spirit.
The duster is doing it now too.

So I dont know whats going on with the spirit that its causing these problems.

[Ondonti]

Still havent tried to start her and Im sure there will be problems...including the fact that the ford TB doesnt really have a TB blade screw that adjusts (its just a stud) so I dont know if the engine will idle and thats just among the other fouling problems and blah blah blah.
At least it looks decent.

Will try my best to get it running tomorrow (friday) then head to the midnight races (and remember my helmet)
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/851/img1995or5.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8891/img1994nx2.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4484/img1998iz5.jpg
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/566/img1997fk9.jpg

[Ondonti]

She is running.
Vacuum is a bit higher with the cam gears advanced.
Still gottta check if it is fouling any plugs.

my buddy is taking out his 12 second sr20 nx2000 so I really want to make it to the track tonight...

[jckrieger]

Git R Dun! I'd like to go to the track, but we got 8" of rain and my car is running on 2-3 cylinders.

[Ondonti]

Yeah so my sr20 buddy blew a headgasket cause he car was running bad and he decided he would rather beat a mustang then let off :P

I had some horrible runs. I will post slips later.
Lots of drama too. My new brake pads were hitting the spacers but the butcher brothers pulled up next to me (they run a caryard and do the TD thing) and say "oh we have some spacers that will fit at our yard (1 block away from track) so they come back and help me swap the spacers then I get into the races (late!)

Summary of my runs
-----------------------------
1st gear = bye bye 2.139 60' ick
2nd gear SLICKS SPINNING @ 12psi
3rd gear = NOPE!!!!!!!no 3rd gear
I thought I broke something but I guess I just let the clutch out to fast. I have no practice with this solid hub 3 puck and I actually had clutch problems that made me late to the races (clutch not engaging all the way so I removed all the rubber gromets to get more slack in the clutch cable and then it worked)
4th Gear = yay car not broken (going about 45mph at this time)
Put car back into 3rd gear, hit limiter and then engine braked @ the 1000' mark
17.8@74
----------------------------------

So I practiced my 3rd gear shift in line and then dropped to 9.5psi in the slicks (24.5x8 r15)

1st gear = weeee 1.99 60' on my 2nd try ever with stock rear suspension too.
2nd gear = PING!!!!!!! NO 2nd!!! shifter cable clip pops out! I knew what happened the moment I heard that.
3rd gear = blah 3rd gear sucks @ 30mph.

Cant get out of 3rd gear when shifter cable is jacked. I hit the rev limiter in 3rd and then engine brake.
I lost 2mph on the top end lol
blah I wanted my 12!!!!!!!and I had the 60' for it easy

Had to drive past the timeslip shack and pull over so I could fix the shifter cable clip and then grab my slip (i am NOT going to try a 3rd gear start with my current clutch)
16.4@72 lol
my 1/8th mph was 74 and that was me going 1st to Nothing!..then coasting...and then shifting into 3rd
------------------------------------------

Then when i was changing my tires this ls1 camaro owner I know was talking lots of crap (according to friends sitting nearbye) cause after he ran once he spectated and he saw my poor times. He just ran a 13.9 (not spraying) on dot slicks and he thinks he can beat me on street tires (not spraying)
but I already know from last time that i have run a 13.8 on crappy drag radials and that was with no traction :D
Just funny to me.

Got home safe. No transmission dying on the way home :D :D :D

I will take pictures of the timeslips when I wake up tomorrow afternoon :P I didnt get home till 6 AM.

P.S. I think the dodge 3.5L AIS that is on my intake manifold is leaking boost because I was only making 5.0ish boost (should be more like 5.8psi on my .4 bar Tial spring)
Im not really sure though. I dont know how they work. If it is leaking I will just fix up something so it gets air from my IC piping and then I will have a closed system. Im not really sure if that is a good idea though.

[Ondonti]

There is video of my bad runs too lol

[Aries_Turbo]

sounds like the wiring is broken somewhere between the ECU and the TPS... there is a pullup resistor in the ECU that pulls the signal voltage high and triggers a TPS code. you have a code for TPS right?

take a tps connector and solder it a few inches from the ECU and test it there. ive had tps problems before but its always the connector that connects to the TPS itself. sometimes a pin likes to back out and it looks connected but it isnt.

Brian

[Ondonti]

my first run was actually a 1 - 2 - 1 shift :P
somehow I didnt break.
Trying to fix the shifter tonight.
Cables are way to kinked up how I have them so its almost impossible to move this POS shifter especially since its cut 3"

[Ondonti]

went for drive after fixing shifter but I think the transmissions is just not to happy about shifting in the higher rpms.

[jckrieger]

went for drive after fixing shifter but I think the transmissions is just not to happy about shifting in the higher rpms.

It sounds like your clutch might be dragging just a bit. Either that or you're shifting at 7500+ RPM's. What trans lube are you using? Also, does the trans grind when you go into reverse if you let the clutch out in neutral first?

[Ondonti]

I have not had the reverse problem

I did have the trans grind when shifting into 4th at higher rpms.

I am not quite used to this clutch and I had some adjutment problems with it NOT ENGAGING so I removed all the rubber bushings to get more slack in the cable and got it to engage.

I may not be doing a good job with the clutch when I am driving in the higher rpms.

[Vigo]

probly just synchros. ive gotten into lots of cars that the owner has no shift complaint with, but if you try to shift it at high rpm the synchros arent doing their job.

you know, shift 1-2 at 2000 rpm and the synchro is only dropping 400 rpm. shift 1-2 at 7500 and its dropping 3000 rpm.. not work so well.

[Ondonti]

I thought this trans would be good cause there was almost no metal on the magnet :(


I also found that the external AIS is a HUGE boost leak.
I thought the car felt sorta lame for having the intake on there and I had noticed that I was not getting 5.8psi boost.
Hooked up my air compressor to the intake manifold and sprayed some soapy water in the AIS tube and all the water just blasted out the moment I hit the air.

Im welding a small pipe onto my intercooler piping so I can connect the AIS to the IC piping using some 5/8" heater hose and create a closed system.

[Ondonti]

Oh and then I have some pictures of broken wastegate tube with bad weld (i didnt weld it). That was my real problem :P

[Ondonti]

Here is another thing I found leaking today. I dont know how I was making boost at all. I knew the car felt really laggy when i went for a test drive a few days ago.
This was broken before or during my races last week when I couldnt get a full run.
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/8813/img2018lg6.jpg
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7960/img2022vc0.jpg

Ceramic spray canned the weld. Not as good as the jet hot on there but the weld wont break now.

I just wanted to mention its my fault that broke.

I just remembered now that when i was installing the engine last time, I kept pushing on the wastegate tube really hard to reorient the engine and I actually remember hearing something crack once....so it was broken when I installed it and it must have fallen apart more when I had the wastegate bolted on (heavy) and it got hot.

[Vigo]

hmm thats a lot of leakage, should be a BIG difference with them all fixed.

[Ondonti]

Yeah, I remember thinking "wow this feels laggy for having the cam gears advanced 8 degrees and having this intake on here. Power seems down a little bit too maybe???"

I'm glad something like this was wrong because now it might be a lot more insane to drive.
Whats funny is that even with that huge leak the tires would still blow off and hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear...just about 1000 or so rpms later.

[Aries_Turbo]

good to hear that the manifold is fixed. you get the TPS thing figured out?

Brian

[Vigo]

Whats funny is that even with that huge leak the tires would still blow off and hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear...just about 1000 or so rpms later.

yeh, just face it, you've got an unstoppable beast there. its roar can only be delayed, never stopped. now go for 15 psi and 120mph traps. snap snap.

[Ondonti]

good to hear that the manifold is fixed. you get the TPS thing figured out?

Brian
I guess the weird thing is that this engine seems to drive great without a functional TPS while using the big intake manifold.

My spirit drives horribly.

I am just ignoring the problem for now because I just want to go racing a last time or two then I have megasquirt to deal with this fall.


No vigo i dont think we are seeing 15psi anytime soon. I just want 112mph traps on 5psi....My parents are flying out to watch me race next friday though so I might try the 47# injectors again and then go boost crazy. Those will support more like 470-500whp. The 30# injectors I dont have a lot of room left on.
Ive also got meth injection sitting in my room but I dont need more octane and I dont actually own any methanol to use for fuel enrichment. Thats one thing I want this intake manifold for....better distribution if I spray huge amounts of methanol (going to use 3 nozzles in the future).

[Ondonti]

Went for a drive. Took short video or 3rd gear pull from 1500 rpms and then a 2nd gear burnout :P


Anyways Im really pissed because the transmission WILL NOT SHIFT above 3000 rpms.

[Ondonti]

Driving the car
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/850d8bdc-972b-41a5-8681-999f000d1b20.htm

[jckrieger]

Time to crank up the boost! I love the sound... not bad for an AA body :)

[Vigo]

keep the vids coming. also fix your turn signal lol.

[Ondonti]

The grounds are bad on the rear light sockets and after I get them right when the car shakes around they get bad again :P
And this is my P-body for anyone who doesnt know.

[Aries_Turbo]

you gotta take them apart and clean the piss out of them and jam some little bits of stuff in the grounds so they make good contact. ive had problems with this in a few of my k cars.

Brian

[Ondonti]

Yeah I was totally clueless on it but allmotor replied to a thread I made long ago and pointed me in the right direction. I just didnt really "fix" them I just messed with them till I got the blinkers working properly so i could prove there was nothing else wrong.

I am going to do a clutch disengagement test on jackstands but
I think that I have a bent shift fork or something stupid like that.
Sooo, I will be pulling the motor and swapping in another transmission (while resetting cam timing to stock) hopefully before friday so i can go racing.

[Ondonti]

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/0b5d0976-2181-4105-922b-99a0017512e1.htm

Did a 4th gear pull 40-120mph and datalogged it so I can compare spool with the cams set back to stock 110 deg centerline. At 102 deg now.
stupid egt didnt datalog properly...it flatlined at zero when I went WOT @ 2000 rpms and then made a few bumps as the rpms went up...then started working again the moment I let off.

[Ondonti]

It looks like the rear cam gear slipped so it is way off from what the front cam is. It probably got retarded to ~125 degrees while the front cam is set @ 102 degrees.

Anyways thats probably why my powerband seems so linear in those videos.

[RoadWarrior222]

you gotta take them apart and clean the piss out of them and jam some little bits of stuff in the grounds so they make good contact. ive had problems with this in a few of my k cars.

Brian

Something similar on my van, had those pressed in steel strips that are butt joined on a bend, got rusty in the join. Scrubbed the hell out of it, ran folded wet&dry paper between them, then wedged in some strips of aluminum screening to keep it tight, gooped over with dielectric grease.... they've been 5 years like that without a problem.

Also a year ago the flasher unit got loose in the socket, kept screwing up, had to twist the contacts a bit to get a firmer fit. Guess it would be an idea to figure out a way to ziptie it down, 'coz the vibration will probably loosen it again eventually.

[Vigo]

proper cam timing is gonna help that boost threshold a LOT. keep updating :)

[Ondonti]

Worked butt off.
Parents flew in friday morning. Dad helped install the motor. Got to the track...then it started fouling out cylinder #4. I make 2 16 second passes and this trans will not shift either but it is better then the last cause it has good synchros...I think.

[Aries_Turbo]

if both are giving you problems, its prolly something common with both... like a clutch or the cable or something like that.

Brian

[Vigo]

being on your 3rd or 4th trans i gotta think you're working harder, not smarter. pick one trans, make SURE its right, put one GOOD trans in, and if it doesnt work right, like brian said, you got cable or clutch issues.

whats the problem you're having now as far as not shifting right?

[Ondonti]

high rpms shifting wont happen.
Im quite sure its the pressure plate now as mock_glh mentioned in another thread.

Not sure what to do about that.

[RoadWarrior222]

I hear bent shift forks cause similar problems, be odd to have 2 trannies with 'em though.

[Ondonti]

Yeah I would hope i dont have the same stupid problem on both transmissions.

I need to look into the pressure plate I guess. It is a SACHS unit. NEVER had a problem shifting with it when combined with my 4 puck sprung hub ghetto clutch that came with it from eurodrive.

It might not be getting along with my 3 puck solid hub from clutchnet. I dont really know why that would be though.

[Ondonti]

So I broke a bunch of stuff, the SACHS pressure plate and also the intake manifold. Rebuilding the manifold.
Got a new Pressure plate in my room.

Good news is, I found that I only was missing 1 jumper on my Megasquirt II board for direct coil ignition so Bansheenut will be helping me out with getting that fixed.

Means when I pull out the motor again to replace the pressure plate, I will hopefully also be wiring in the megasquirt. The actual wiring of megasquirt seems very easy, especially since I will be directly controlling the coil.

[Vigo]

why are you pulling the motor to do a pressure plate?

[Ondonti]

Because it only takes about 1.5 hours and its easier to do the cam timing and all the other stuff. I dont like benchpressing the transmission.

I am going to set the cams to maybe 106 degrees this time and tighten down the gears better so they dont slip.

[87turbodance]

How do you plan to wire the MS? Do you plan to use all the stock wiring or ditch it for all new wiring? Make sure you wire the + side of the coil and fuel injectors to the fuel pump relay (as well as the fuel pump) if you dont plan to use the factory wiring. Or if you do use the factory wiring just hook the FP out on MS to your ASD relay - same results but easier and uses the factory wiring. Also change your CTS to one out of a early 90's GM - same connectors and 3/8" NPT threads and then you don't have to recalibrate MS to use the chrysler sensor; same goes for the IAT. For tuning leave the IAC disconnected and don't even try to tune the VE table until the motor is warmed up.

For tuning leave the VE table as the default. Set the required fuel numbers. Set the spark advance map to nothing but 15 BTDC for all the cells. Use a timing light and make sure the ignition timing isn't wayyy off. Play with the cold and hot cranking PW numbers until you can get the thing to start for a few seconds. Then play with the afterstart enrichment until it runs for a few seconds longer and then play with the warm up enrichment values until you get it to stay running. Once this stuff is set check your ignition timing with a light and make sure the advance number in MS is the same as what you see with your timing light. If they are different turn the distributor until they match. Then change your ignition map until you to some conservative numbers. Then you should be able to drive the car with the default Ve map. Go for a drive with a buddy and using your wideband tune the cruise section of your VE table. Once it is close then you can turn auto tune on.

You may not may have already known this stuff but I felt like running it through my head and typing it out for the fun of it.

[Vigo]

fair enough, i know its tougher to do manuals just the tranny but ive done it a few times. i have never once lifted a tranny into place by hand. i use a strap around the tranny and an engine hoist to lift it into place from the top.. way easier to get the bellhousing lined up that way than with a jack.

[Ondonti]

Ive got the GM sensors..a couple of them.

I was planning on using the stock relays. Our distributor will directly run off MS with a resistor added.


I dont quite now how you want me to set my base timing.
You want me to move the distributor until the light says 15 btdc (since thats what the megasquirt is supposed to be advancing)?

[87turbodance]

All I'm saying is before you start playing with the VE table make sure that you have the ignition advance and all the other settings somewhat correct or you will pull your hair out trying to get it to run right.

As long as req fuel is right and the timing is right the motor should run with the default VE table. I've seen people go crazy trying to get copies of other peoples VE tables to try to get their motor running when they seem to have overlooked things like verifying ignition timing and assuming too many things.

For the ignition timing force MS to command something like 12 or 15 BTDC or whatever number our stock advance is then verify that what MS says is what you see with a light. Once that is good it shouldn't take more then an hour to get the car running well enough to drive down the street (no boost).

Getting a car to run with MS is easy - tuning it takes a lot more time. I believe you have a wideband so you can setup an AFR taget table which makes tuning that much easier.

[Ondonti]

LoL :( I still havent had time to fix it.
Then yesterday I had time and when removing the lugnuts one of the wheel studs stripped and :(
got a few new studs and bought a 15/16" socket. I guess thats what I will do tomorrow after class. Would have been nice to take the car to the utah meet saturday.

My intake manifold had to be fixed and that took a long time (thats all I accomplished the last 2 months).

I guess I did accomplish 1 other thing. Pulled out the fuel pump to make sure it was not a chinese walbro.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/166/img2073dn9.jpg

All I accomplished in in the engine bay was removing the Tial wastegate (hits the radiator fan if you remove the engine) and removed the front motor mount and bracket.
Have to attach the AIS valve to the intake manifold (and seal it with rtv) but I dont see a point doing that when i am going to be removing the engine. I have a plastic bag over the lower intake manifold that I removed for the picture.
The custom nylon intake spacers were made by my friend Mike Mulhern because I was not able fit the fuel rails under my intake manifold without lifting it up about an inch or so ((well the rails would get in the way of any tools trying to tighten the nuts to hold the upper intake to the lower).
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2881/img2085ll5.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/6453/img2086xo5.jpg

[dodgeshadowchik]

Ondonti - I love you!
haha! I cannot wait until you get this car going again!! I think it's probably because I have a soft spot for the 'ol 3.0L.

[Ondonti]

I got the motor out sitting in the driveway. just finished putting the RPW adjustable cam gears back on but I dont really want to set the cam timing because I HATE doing that :P

I did fix my broken wheel studs. I was a surprisingly easy repair.

[Ondonti]

I finished putting timing marks on my rear RPW camgear.

Does look pretty but it works.

102 deg, 106 deg, 110 deg (stock).

Set at 106 degrees for now.

[Ondonti]

Swapped the pressure plates.

The Sachs pressure plate was totally fubared.
Got the engine back in the car and hood back on. Pics tomorrow late afternoon. I didnt want to sleep and leave the motor sitting out especially with the turbo in extra easy to steal mode.

Found out I have to do a little body work (that I cant ignore) to help my bumper cover stay up cause its sorta damaged (splitting in the middle) now from the one little strip of metal I have holding it up in the center. Need two more strips pulling the bumper cover up towards the radiator support to even the load out.

[93sundance]

I have a soft spot for the 'ol 3.0L.

me too

:mecry:

[BadAssPerformance]

Whatch out folks, 'soft spots' can sometimes be cancerous tumors! :eek: ;)

[Ondonti]

Had to replace some wheel studs along with the other work.

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/7940/img2090xt3.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7076/img2092yd1.jpg
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/8264/img2094om0.jpg
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1117/img2097cr7.jpg
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/4138/img2098dd3.jpg
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/6243/img2100wx1.jpg
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/3731/img2101jj0.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1539/img2102ya3.jpg
Funny camera angle I guess so the cam timing doesnt look lined up with the center mark (106 deg)
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8517/img2104ac1.jpg
Here is the reason I couldnt shift gears above 3000 rpms!
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2031/img2107jm7.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9919/img2113px8.jpg
Putting the hood back on after reinstalling the engine.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7910/img2114og6.jpg

[Aries_Turbo]

looks good. man that shadow is whooped! is that the mock-up car? ;)

are you gonna convert the car to megasquirt?

Brian

[Ondonti]

well the previous owner beat the car up pretty bad. I like that its so damaged because I can do all kinds of stuff to it without feeling like I am ruining something lol.

Bansheenut still hasnt fixed my MS board but it doesnt really matter cause I dont have time to wire it up.

February sounds more realistic. Pretty much done with school in December.......and I think I am going to move to Seattle for a month and study LSAT at my parents house in January to get away from distractions.

Ive been waiting to do these simple repairs for 2 months already :P

[93sundance]

how many times have u pulled and reinstalled that engine? like 400 times? You must be real fast at it by now lol

[93sundance]

looks good. man that shadow is whooped! is that the mock-up car? ;)

are you gonna convert the car to megasquirt?

Brian

It enhances the sleeper look ;)

[Aries_Turbo]

oh trust me, i know all about sleeper lol :) ^^^

[Ondonti]

Started. Vacuum and A/F look good and it sounds happy when I tap the gas. Stupid broken intake manifold.
Needs fluids and axels and tires again :D.

[Ondonti]

Car all together. Now trying to revive my hands from the cold :P
27 degrees ftw! :P
Will see how she behaves tomorrow I guess

[Ondonti]

Went for a scary ride. 2 4th gear pulls.

#1 pull it was way to lean and boost was creeping badly. 3000 rpms and we were at full boost 5 psi. boost then crept up to 9+ psi near redline and the car leaned out to 15:1 a/f. EGT's got up to 1725. Not good. Glad I had a datalog of that. Cranked up the rising rate regulator.

#2 pull 3000rpms = 5psi. Creeps to 6ish psi and then above 4800 rpms it creeps up to 8-9psi. My guess is the engine really is moving air at those rpms and the tial 38mm is not able to handle it. Only leaned out to 13:1 but that was a blip it was more like 12.7:1. Added a little bit more fuel.

This is with the custom intake manifold fixed and cams advanced 4 degrees.

[Ondonti]

So my question is this. When if turn the boost up, is it going to creep even higher or will it probably creep to the same numbers as before?
I dont want to turn it up to 8-9 psi and then have it creep to 13-14 cause I dont have enough fuel for that.

Wondering this question because if its going to be a POS and creep that high, then I might as well run the same boost number throughout the RPM range so tuning the a/f is a bit less weird.

Is my camshaft timing complicating boost creep or shouldnt that be a non issue above 4800 rpms where the creep gets really bad?

One thing I am going to try is giving a dedicated vacuum line to the wastegate as its currently sharing with a lot of other stuff.

[Ondonti]

On an interesting note.
Car does 40-120 in about 13 seconds on my datalog.
Thats all in 4th gear starting at 2000 rpms. wee. Previously it took about 12 seconds to go 40-100.

[turbovanman²]

Just get it running already, sheesh, :confused: ;)

[Aries_Turbo]

if it creeps at 5, it will creep higher.

Brian

[Ondonti]

So is this a situation where it will creep regardless of boost pressure and the only real fix is a larger wastegate valve?

If so I plan on building another manifold and installing this one on my stock motor spirit. Then I would just build things for a larger wastegate like a 44mm or 46mm.

[Aries_Turbo]

im pretty sure it will. the exhaust volume will only get larger as the boost goes up.

how is the wastegate positioned in relation to all the other pipes. there just might be a restriction somewhere that is causing it to creep and not the wastegate itself.

ive seen 38mm's support some pretty hefty setups without issue so it might be something else.

Brian

[Ondonti]

There is one 1 1/8" pipe coming from the rear cylinder bank and one 1 1/8" pipe coming from the front cylinder bank. They merge and then go into the Tial 38mm which is sitting in front of the transmission. It then dumps below the clutch release arm.

[Aries_Turbo]

well 38mm is 1.49" so about 1.5. i know you are using 2 pipes from the manifolds but maybe using 1.5"id and merging at that size (if you didnt already) might help?

whats the output dump tube size?

Brian

[Ondonti]

well 38mm is 1.49" so about 1.5. i know you are using 2 pipes from the manifolds but maybe using 1.5"id and merging at that size (if you didnt already) might help?

whats the output dump tube size?

Brian
I think the issue you run into with the pipes is that the valve is 38mm but the entry and exit holes are not 38mm.
The inside diameter of the 1 1/8" pipes fit perfectly with the inside diameter of the tial 38mm flanges. I dont quite remember if the pipes are exactly 1 1/8" though. Its been a few years.

[Ondonti]

my wideband is dead me no happy. the power wire got caught in the steering coupler 2 nights ago and shorted out. new wires have not been able to revive it :(.
Guess im gonna have to mail it back to zeitronix. :(

I dont understand what hurt it because the power wire grounded itself to the body so I would think there is no voltage getting to the wideband controller. I thought there was a fuse inside the zeitronix but nope :(

[Ondonti]

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/9419/img2131wk8.jpg
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/3791/img2132jk6.jpg

Tank lid comes out into the engine bay. I put this where a normal car has the charcoal canister. Pump sits behind the bumper.
Mmmm stealth :D

[Vigo]

sweet.

[93sundance]

Is that a Falken tire i see? It looks directional, and looks like its rotating the wrong way...

[Ondonti]

probably is. I never messed with the tire rotation on this car after I bought it and the tires are really really crappy:D
Will probably fix that when I pull the wheels to swap temporarily with my spirit.