2.4 accessory mounting and brackets

[rbryant]

What accessory brackets are peopel using on their 2.4 swaps?

The brackets that came on my PT engine don't line up well and weigh about 10lbs each! The stratus mounts seem to weigh about 1.5 lbs each.

I want all acesssories on mine in an lbody so it is a challenge....

I am currently looking at 2.4 stratus PS, Alternator, and AC brackets.

(I will add pictures in a day or two.)

The AC bracket doesn't attach perfectly because it must normally connect to an older style water pump housing or something. I drilled a new hole and now have 3 bolts holding it in.


The stratus also uses a 6 rib belt because it moves the alternator to the front and runs both the AC and alternator on the same belt.

Which engines place the alternator in which locations?

PT: Front PS, Back alternator
Stratus 2.4: Front alternator, Back PS

Does anyone know if the 2.0 and 2.4 crank pullies are compatible? If they are not then there doesn't seem to be a source for the stratus underdrive pully. If they are the same the Avenger pulley might work...

Thanks,

Rich

[Speedeuphoria]

Which engines place the alternator in which locations?

PT: Front PS, Back alternator
Stratus 2.4: Front alternator, Back PS

Does anyone know if the 2.0 and 2.4 crank pullies are compatible? If they are not then there doesn't seem to be a source for the stratus underdrive pully. If they are the same the Avenger pulley might work...

The PT/SRT4/2.0Neon all have the PS front and Alt back
the Stratus/Caravan have Alt front, PS back

The 2.0 neon pulley/udp works on the 2.4(you may need the 00+ 2.0neon pulley for the correct belts)

[rbryant]

The PT/SRT4/2.0Neon all have the PS front and Alt back
the Stratus/Caravan have Alt front, PS back

The 2.0 neon pulley/udp works on the 2.4(you may need the 00+ 2.0neon pulley for the correct belts)

Thanks good info. I think this means that the 00+ neon pulley would work with the PT/SRT4 accessories and the Avenger would work with the stratus/caravan accessories. This is because the Stratus/Caravan use a 6 rib belt and the others use a 5 rib belt.

I will have to think about if I want to underdrive my AC compressor or not and then order one or not depending on what I decide.

-Rich

[rbryant]

Stratus Mounts on the SRT4 Engine.

I used the hydraulic passenger side mount so I had to cut about .5" off from one of the legs. I didn't realize they were different at the time but it was an easy fix.

The AC bracket also didn't line up on one of the bolts so I just drilled a hole in the middle. I may have to trim the bolt head or get a torx flat head bolt for it.

The front mount looks very easy to fabricate to. The M8 bolts might be too small so I will probably drill a hole through the bracket and use a stud that bolts holds the main bracket bolt down and then goes through to the actual engine mount to give it some extra support (the bolt can be seen in the second picture).

Also I need a new crank pulley since the alternator and AC have a 6 rib belt on the stratus and I plan on keeping it just to make the belt a bit more solid.

-Rich

[jrbexhaust]

rbryant - are you not going to use the large black plate-like bracket for the right side? Do you have a picture of what you're going to use to mount the right side bracket (that's in the first picture) to the car? I'm doing the same converstion, but I thought I'd try to use the large plate with the single large bolt. My plan is to see if the stock L-body mount will work. I've read about people using the Stratus mount, but I have seen any pics of the mounts on the engine in an Omni.

Do you know (or anyone else) if the stock intake manifold leaves enough room for a stock radiator to be mounted in the stock location?

[SebringLX]

If you're using 2G Stratus mounts, Deyeme sells firm racing mounts. I have them in my Sebring. I think it was $80 for the front and $70 for the rear. Good mounts.

The UDPs marketted for the SRT-4 work on the 2G Stratus/Sebring 2.4L. I know a guy running the Howell AFX UDP on his Stratus. Seems like the SRT-4 crowd really tends to stay away from UDPs though.

[rbryant]

rbryant - are you not going to use the large black plate-like bracket for the right side? Do you have a picture of what you're going to use to mount the right side bracket (that's in the first picture) to the car? I'm doing the same converstion, but I thought I'd try to use the large plate with the single large bolt. My plan is to see if the stock L-body mount will work. I've read about people using the Stratus mount, but I have seen any pics of the mounts on the engine in an Omni.

Do you know (or anyone else) if the stock intake manifold leaves enough room for a stock radiator to be mounted in the stock location?

I will either use the "toomanyneons" mount or make one myself that bolts into the side bracket.

There is a good description on neons.org.

The large PT mount weighs like 10lbs vs. 1.5lbs and isn't as easy to fabricate to. I haven't gotten that far yet.

-Rich

[rbryant]

If you're using 2G Stratus mounts, Deyeme sells firm racing mounts. I have them in my Sebring. I think it was $80 for the front and $70 for the rear. Good mounts.

The UDPs marketted for the SRT-4 work on the 2G Stratus/Sebring 2.4L. I know a guy running the Howell AFX UDP on his Stratus. Seems like the SRT-4 crowd really tends to stay away from UDPs though.

I have heard that all of the 2.0/2.4 UDPs will fit. The stratus runs both the AC and Alternator off from the same belt and therefore they changed it to be a 6 rib belt. That means it has a 6 rib crank pulley so if you want to run the 6 rib belt as it was intended I am not sure if there is a UDP for it yet. The avenger UDP might actually work but I am not sure yet.

The mounts that I am using are from a 1G stratus since they are redily available in the junkyards. I never see 2G strati at the pick-n-pull type yards.

-Rich

[BadAssPerformance]

Good point on the UD pulley, most are probably 4 groove designs. I know the one I got is. But then again I also lathed off the extra pulley for the power steering or whatever it was supposed to be used for, LOL.

[rbryant]

Good point on the UD pulley, most are probably 4 groove designs. I know the one I got is. But then again I also lathed off the extra pulley for the power steering or whatever it was supposed to be used for, LOL.

If I wasn't keeping AC and PS I would use a PT or SRT4 Setup with a rear alternator.

It would be better to have the alternator in the back and save the room in the front for other things or just keep the engine bay less cramped.

-Rich

[www.turbogod.com]

any updates?? I am working on putting an srt4 2.4 in my omni.. using the Omni 525 trans.. Seen where a guy did this combo. I tried tonight to hook the starter up to the back and it hits the block even using the smaller version starter.. any ideas?

Anyone making custom mounts for this kind of conversion?

[rbryant]

If you're using 2G Stratus mounts, Deyeme sells firm racing mounts. I have them in my Sebring. I think it was $80 for the front and $70 for the rear. Good mounts.

The UDPs marketted for the SRT-4 work on the 2G Stratus/Sebring 2.4L. I know a guy running the Howell AFX UDP on his Stratus. Seems like the SRT-4 crowd really tends to stay away from UDPs though.

They will bolt to the crank but are all wrong for Stratus accessories...

The stratus uses a 6 rib belt as you know and the neon is only a 4 rib pulley.

This will work if you switch to a 4 rib alternator or just don't use the other ribs but it isn't quite right. I wouldn't want to try and run the AC and the alternator off from the 4 rib belt. On top of that the stratus pulley size is quite a bit different since the outer pulley is larger than the inner.

The stratus uses a larger crank pulley and smaller alternator pulley so you would want to use the neon alternator if you use the neon pulley.

It probably isn't bad if you skip the AC but I am running all of the acessories so it isn't going to work for me.

-Rich

[rbryant]

any updates?? I am working on putting an srt4 2.4 in my omni.. using the Omni 525 trans.. Seen where a guy did this combo. I tried tonight to hook the starter up to the back and it hits the block even using the smaller version starter.. any ideas?

Anyone making custom mounts for this kind of conversion?

The combos I have seen are mostly 568, 555, or 523 tranny.

If you use a 525 you will break it the first time you slap second gear hard.

Read up on the 525 and what a POS it is in a performance application before you consider that one. ;)

I would strongly suggest against putting a 525 into any car that is modified especially if I already had the engine out of it. An upgrade to a 523 is cheap and not difficult compared to a 2.4 swap!

-Rich

[rbryant]

Here are some later pictures of the setup. I didn't take any with the TMN adapter yet though.

Belts Installed. Notice the crank pulley size differences from my previous post with the SRT4 crank pulley. The stratus pulley is a monster and weighs a couple pounds more... Oh well It is a 16V turbo engine in an lbody so who cares...
5830

1G Stratus AC bracket used a boss on the old style oil pump that is missing boss but I drilled a new hole to meet up with a middle boss. It required some grinding on the bolt head to clear the compressor.
5831

Waterbox needs a 45 degree fitting to clear the alt bracket.
5832

Alternator pulley compared to the neon alternator.
5833


My conclusion is that the crank pulley inner size is about the same size on the stratus and SRT4. The outer is much larger on the Stratus in order to run both the AC and Alternator. If you went with no AC and the neon alternator all would be good with the SRT4 crank pulley or an UD pulley. It would give you a 4 rib belt and the pullies would be about right. Once you go with AC then you need the 6 rib belt and larger pulley.

I haven't however calculated it out or tried it the other way...

-Rich

[inmyshadow]

I used PT Crusier brackets for my Neon 2.4 swap with power steering and alternator.

The black altenator bracket doesn't work to well with a Neon altenator. Not until you use BFM to properly align it.

I'd also suggest your make your own 2.4 adapter. You can't find a new one from any neon vendors right now. So either you make one or buy one used.

Or be like me. I bought an 2.4 adapted motor mount using a neon and stratus aluminum mounts. They were tig welded together. It also looks stock.

later

[rbryant]

I used PT Crusier brackets for my Neon 2.4 swap with power steering and alternator.


What did you do for the PS tensioner? The tensioner is normally part of the SRT/PT mount and isn't on the stratus mount...

I have seen where people have used a Neon PS pump with a modified PT/SRT PS bracket but it isn't bolt on.




The black altenator bracket doesn't work to well with a Neon altenator. Not until you use BFG to properly align it.



I also took the BFM to mine and moved it downward 1/4". I have heard that the neon alternator bracket will work though and that wouldn't need to be bent...




I'd also suggest your make your own 2.4 adapter. You can't find a new one from any neon vendors right now. So either you make one or buy one used.

Or be like me. I bought an 2.4 adapted motor mount using a neon and stratus aluminum mounts. They were tig welded together. It also looks stock.

later

I got one used for $60 shipped. I am going to see how it works with the lbody since it might leave a space. If it does I will have one made that fits correctly.

The other problem with the TMN mount is that the bolt supports all of the weight of the engien on that side. Our stock mount has connections on both sides of the mount so the bolt is only connecting the mount to the bracket and there isn't much leverage on it (no fulcrum since it is connected on both sides).

-Rich

[inmyshadow]

The 1st Neons use the same belt tensioning as most of our turbo dodges. Thats lean on a breaker bar and tighten locking bolt.

I modified the SOHC power steering bracket. I cut of the ridge to make it flat. I only needed a few washers to get the correct belt alignment. This method still lets me use a breaker bar to tension the belt.

On the PT power steering bracket, I slotted one bolt hole. This allows me to pivot the pump to tension the belt. I need to slot the bracket more. My power steering belt slips at parking lot speeds. I also need to cut a small piece off my made shim. I'm tired of cutting my arm whenever I have to reach down past bracket.

I've been thinking about upgrading to 2gen Neon pump for a few reasons:

The 1st gen power steering tends to boil over in autocross. I haven't had that problem yet, perhaps the underdrive helps.

The 2gens come with a power steering cooler. Its part of the the hard lines under the car. My problem has been finding a undamaged 2gen reservoir in the junkyard.

The power steering reservoir will be right next to a high heat source(turbo). I'd like to keep as much as possible away from the turbo.

Lastly, why not. My neon already has shadow power steering rack.





What did you do for the PS tensioner? The tensioner is normally part of the SRT/PT mount and isn't on the stratus mount...

[turboshad]

The other problem with the TMN mount is that the bolt supports all of the weight of the engien on that side. Our stock mount has connections on both sides of the mount so the bolt is only connecting the mount to the bracket and there isn't much leverage on it (no fulcrum since it is connected on both sides).

-Rich

Problem solved :) I also didn't like the single shear nature of the TMN mount. Double shear has me much more comfortable.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01334.jpg

DJ

[rbryant]

Problem solved :) I also didn't like the single shear nature of the TMN mount. Double shear has me much more comfortable.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01334.jpg

DJ

Nice,

Any interest in making me one for my GLHS? ;)

-Rich

[BadAssPerformance]

I have a OhioRob Pachner one I might be willing to sell... just a little bit off for my fat G-Body.