What kind of oil?

[Dusty_Duster]

I'm getting ready to do my Duster's oil change, and I want some opinions on oil type. I've always used full-synthetic Castrol Syntec 10W-30. I was thinking about trying Royal Purple or some other full-synthetic.

EDIT: '88 2.2 Turbo, fully-built, intercooled, etc.

Thoughts? Opinions? Wisecracks?

[turbovanman²]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14859&highlight=oil

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8711

:D

[mcsvt]

Mobile1 has always been my choice. But I don't really have any info to back up my reasoning :)

[puppet]

Well Wal-Mart has M1 at under $20 for the (5) qt pail. I haven't seen it that cheap in a while.
Good oil and cheap .... what's not to like.

[GLHSKEN]

M-1 is what was recommended and I still use. My new 2007 solstice GXP (2.0L direct injected turbo 4) has a mobil 1 plaque underhood.

[contraption22]

I'd just recommend a name-brand full synthetic oil to prevent coking and sludge. If you detonate the piss out of your engine, over rev it, or lose oil pressure, you're gonna have the same damage wether you you paid $3.99/qt or $6.99/qt. or if the bottle is silver, green, black, purple or white.

[turbovanman²]

M-1 is what was recommended and I still use. My new 2007 solstice GXP (2.0L direct injected turbo 4) has a mobil 1 plaque underhood.

Trouble is, your paying a premium price for a sub premium product.

[raccoon]

^^ yea I heard mobile 1 isn't even synthetic anymore

I like castrol GTX 10w30/5w30

[puppet]

Yeah ... out of the ground and into the can.
(shakes fist in air) ... money hungry bastids ... lol :P

[RoadWarrior222]

I've settled on two kinds of oil for my motors, if it leaks and smokes it gets a "High-mileage" oil. If it's tight it gets the cheap walmart brand synthetic. Tech 2000 I think it is.

This is through finding that in a motor I severely abused throughout the hot weather last summer, the walmart synth held up great, didn't change color or smell after 12,000 miles, and didn't move on the stick .... then I blew the headgasket... so I had the head off, everything was really clean inside the head. I was very impressed.

The "high mileage" stuff is due to trying EVERYTHING in a tired V6, stop smoke, stop leak, 20W50, diesel spec... and it still ate a quart of oil every couple of weeks. So one day, crappy tire had the HM stuff on sale, so I got some of that... first couple of weeks... consumption normal but slowing down.. after that, eats a quart every 3 months, which is about a quart between changes. Gas mileage a lot better with that 10W30 rather than filling the crankcase with gloopy soup. However, dunno if the high detergents are cleaning out years of crap, or whether it goes "off" quick, but 3000 mile/5000km changes appear to be a must with it, also starts to use oil again near change time. Looks spendy, near synth price, but $ave$ when you figure you're not using 6+ quarts of top up oil, plus whatever cans of crap you keep trying to "fix" it with. Tried the Pennzoil, Castrol and Valvoline stuff, so far seems like the Pennzoil one works best.

I beleive there are syth and semi syth high mileage oils around now if you have a leaky/smoky turbo motor. I expect they'd keep a DD stock turbo going, but if you have it modified, then for gawdsake fix it.

So, that's what I'm sticking with now. Walmart synth on long intervals for the tight motors, HM stuff on standard intervals for the leaky/smoky ones.

[GLHSKEN]

Trouble is, your paying a premium price for a sub premium product.

Never had an issue with M1. It goes 7k miles in the Grand Prix between changes and comes out looking a perfect (kinda a caramel color). Car uses no oil. Been running it since day 1. Other oils look black after 3k miles.

I believe I'm getting my $$$ worth

[turbovanman²]

I've settled on two kinds of oil for my motors, if it leaks and smokes it gets a "High-mileage" oil. If it's tight it gets the cheap walmart brand synthetic. Tech 2000 I think it is.



I use that in my wifes 98 Jimmy, go 10K between oil changes and comes out still gold, and up here, its $20 for 5 litres.


Never had an issue with M1. It goes 7k miles in the Grand Prix between changes and comes out looking a perfect (kinda a caramel color). Car uses no oil. Been running it since day 1. Other oils look black after 3k miles.

I believe I'm getting my $$$ worth

I found it went black after a few months, I switched to a known real group IV oil and it stayed clean for 3000 km's or longer, :D

Mobil 1 is still probably good but when your paying $45 for a 4.4L jug of FAKE synthetic oil that they switched without telling anyone, thats enough for me to say, piss off. :lol:

[GLHSKEN]

Give me a link showing fake...

[turbovanman²]

Give me a link showing fake...

Its all over the web, after they lost the court case against Castrol for marketing a group III oil as real synthetic, they also switched as its cheaper than a real group IV synthetic oil. Its also been brought up on TM many times.

[ShelbyZD]

After seeing this I wouldn't use mobile 1 in my TD if someone GAVE it to me!

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf


I'm not so sure about royal purple either.. I've heard it has moly in it. Amsoil is looking like the best choice right now as far as I can tell.

[turbovanman²]

After seeing this I wouldn't use mobile 1 in my TD if someone GAVE it to me!

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf


I'm not so sure about royal purple either.. I've heard it has moly in it. Amsoil is looking like the best choice right now as far as I can tell.


That test is invalid, you can't test oils that way although it can be used for that kind of info. They printed a retraction after the oil companies corrected them.

[Tony Hanna]

I used to run M1 in everything, but after finding out that they went to a group III base stock, I said screw it and decided to make the switch to Royal Purple. Unfortunately nobody sells it around here. No Amsoil either. Advance was running some kind of promo on Castrol synthetic, so that's what I went with this time. If I can ever find somebody that carries RP or Amsoil, I'm going to stock up and make the switch next time.

This is in the Spirit. The Sundance still has M1 in it, but will get whatever I decide to run in the Spirit and like it!:evil:

[Dusty_Duster]

I'm going to try using Royal Purple 10w-40 next oil change and see how it goes.

I'm stepping up to 10w-40 from 10w-30 so I can get slightly higher oil pressure at idle. Sound like a good idea?

[RoadWarrior222]

At idle when? Hot or cold? If you're trying to cure lifter rattle at startup I find thinner works better for that. 5W30.

(By the way, am I the only one that thinks it's senseless to buy anything other than a 0W or 5W in a synth, only use 10W in a regular oil to stop it burning up or leaking so quick in summer)

[Dusty_Duster]

There's no rattle in my motor. Ever. I just want a little bit more oil pressure at hot idle, since I feel that 8-10 psi is a little low.

[turbovanman²]

I'm going to try using Royal Purple 10w-40 next oil change and see how it goes.

I'm stepping up to 10w-40 from 10w-30 so I can get slightly higher oil pressure at idle. Sound like a good idea?

Honestly, in the summer and/or high boost, you should be running 10w40.


At idle when? Hot or cold? If you're trying to cure lifter rattle at startup I find thinner works better for that. 5W30.

(By the way, am I the only one that thinks it's senseless to buy anything other than a 0W or 5W in a synth, only use 10W in a regular oil to stop it burning up or leaking so quick in summer)

I buy whatevers on sale, lol. Usually in the summer, I use 5w50 and in the winter, 10w40 or 10w40.

[Reaper1]

I also have switched to RP. I've found that Mobil 1 just isn't as good anymore. It likes to foam REALLY bad, plus the whole changing base stocks to me just plain sucks.

[mcsvt]

Hmm... looks like I will not be using M1 anymore... I've been wondering why it hasn't been holding up like it used to :(

[ShelbyZD]

That test is invalid, you can't test oils that way although it can be used for that kind of info. They printed a retraction after the oil companies corrected them.

I realize the test is relatively hard to use to compare to how oil works in a car.... but the facts I took from the test were that M1 doesn't protect metal anywhere near as good as royal purple. ;) Also, it looks like the majority of synthetics are Group 3 cheapo's.

[johnl]

Whatdya think about turbo diesel rated synthetics? Rotella 10-40 synthethic for example? Maybe it has the anti-coking characteristics of a true synthetic and the anti-scuff zinc phosphate additive that protects cams/followers & heavily loaded pistons/rings?

[turbovanman²]

Whatdya think about turbo diesel rated synthetics? Rotella 10-40 synthethic for example? Maybe it has the anti-coking characteristics of a true synthetic and the anti-scuff zinc phosphate additive that protects cams/followers & heavily loaded pistons/rings?


2 thumbs up, :thumb:

[Reaper1]

Rotella is some good stuff from what I understand, but I don't know how it would fare in a gasoline application...

[turbovanman²]

Rotella is some good stuff from what I understand, but I don't know how it would fare in a gasoline application...


I use it, good stuff, :thumb:

[Gaboon]

I've almost always used Mobil 1 in my engines and this is the first I heard of it not being synthetic anymore.

I've also used Royal Purple but can't give you any feedback as my engine was really tired at the time.
Although Ray Barton dyno tested a bunch of oils and Royal purple did allow the engine to produce more hp than any others he tested at the time.

I might try it again once the engine is broken in...You know after a few hard pulls.

[turbovanman²]

I've almost always used Mobil 1 in my engines and this is the first I heard of it not being synthetic anymore.

I've also used Royal Purple but can't give you any feedback as my engine was really tired at the time.
Although Ray Barton dyno tested a bunch of oils and Royal purple did allow the engine to produce more hp than any others he tested at the time.

I might try it again once the engine is broken in...You know after a few hard pulls.


It is a synthetic oil but not a real synthetic oil. They changed it to a dino oil synthetic, which is cheaper to make than real synthetic, thanks to them suing Castrol and loosing so they figured, why beat them when you can join them. I also find M1 is now way overpriced. My local Walmart wants close to $40 for 4.4L, :wow1:

[Gaboon]

It is a synthetic oil but not a real synthetic oil. They changed it to a dino oil synthetic, which is cheaper to make than real synthetic, thanks to them suing Castrol and loosing so they figured, why beat them when you can join them. I also find M1 is now way overpriced. My local Walmart wants close to $40 for 4.4L, :wow1:


True, I as well have found M1 to be wayyyyy overpriced, I too usually get it at Walmart seeing they have specials on it.

I forgot to mention a few other products I find work well.

#1) is the Valvoline Max Life oil filter. I have definitely noticed a difference on how much longer my oil stays clean compared to other filters including the Mopar. I use it in all my cars now.

#2) I used Redline Sythetic in my trans for years and for the most part, it out performed other lubes I used in my trans (A555) It was definitely much better once the trans was warm yet was notchy when cold.
I tried Royal Purple Syncromax in my trans and no s**t, this stuff is the best I've ever tried.
My trans shifted as smooth as Honduh tranny. This is the only stuff I'll put in my trans now.

[turbovanman²]

Redline is good stuff. I also use Amsoil products as my friend is a distributor, I use the good stuff in my race bike, :D

Thanks for the tip on the Valvoline oil filter.

[Gaboon]

Redline is good stuff. I also use Amsoil products as my friend is a distributor, I use the good stuff in my race bike, :D

Thanks for the tip on the Valvoline oil filter.


I can't afford the Amsoil, I own a Dodge remember:D ......A local parts dealer carries it and wants 11.somthing a quart. So I did the ol :bolt:

Funny though I'll spend $60.00 for 4 liters of Motul synthetic for my sleds and that goes up in smoke....Literally:nod:

[87glhs232]

I'm a Royal Purple fan.

[Reaper1]

I tried RP Synchromax in my A555... I HATED it!!! It was VERY smooth when cold, but once it got hot...it was WAAAYYY too notchy and cuase 3rd to grind BAD. In fact, it cause the 3rd gear synchro to glaze, so when I switched to the Red Line MTF it took a while for 3rd to start working propperly again. Even now it isn't 100% right, I think the synchro is tired....

[Devsdaytona]

Switched to Royal Purple in my shadow and a couple of weeks it burnt oil like crazy. new rings and a rebuilt head and it stopped excpt for my Turbo starting to go out now. Who nows if that had anything to do with what caused it, but I'm scared to go back to full-sythetic.

[turbovanman²]

Switched to Royal Purple in my shadow and a couple of weeks it burnt oil like crazy. new rings and a rebuilt head and it stopped excpt for my Turbo starting to go out now. Who nows if that had anything to do with what caused it, but I'm scared to go back to full-sythetic.

Dude, you have to put 3000 miles or 5000 km's on a rerung engine BEFORE you switch to synthetic.

[RoadWarrior222]

Though some people use the rotella for running in.

[Tony Hanna]

Dude, you have to put 3000 miles or 5000 km's on a rerung engine BEFORE you switch to synthetic.

The first performance engine build I ever did was an old 350 SBC. It wasn't much (couldn't afford much at the time), 30 over KB pistons, 1.94 small chamber heads, Crane cam, Edelbrock single plane intake, headers, etc.
I'd poured a great deal of time and what I considered a great deal of money back then into that engine. With that in mind, I decided only the best would do for oil so I went with synthetic. Problem is, nobody warned me not to break-in a fresh engine on synthetic and I didn't know any better at that point.:o
It smoked like a stove!:mad:
I almost went nuts trying to figure out why, and finally mentioned using synthetic oil around the right person and got an earfull on why that was probably the source of my problem. I immediately dumped it and refilled with conventional, but it took forever for the rings to finally seat.
Live and learn I guess.:)

[turbovanman²]

Though some people use the rotella for running in.


You can use that or any decent dino oil. Rotella is good for V8's or vehicles with flat tappets cams.

[Gaboon]

Dude, you have to put 3000 miles or 5000 km's on a rerung engine BEFORE you switch to synthetic.

You know whats odd now that I think of it. The S cars came filled with Mobil 1 from the factory and so did the ZR1 Vettes. I'm sure there are others as well.
How did they get away from poorly seated rings?
*scratches head*

[turbovanman²]

You know whats odd now that I think of it. The S cars came filled with Mobil 1 from the factory and so did the ZR1 Vettes. I'm sure there are others as well.
How did they get away from poorly seated rings?
*scratches head*

Because the engines were fully broken in at the factory on an engine dyno, ;)

[RoadWarrior222]

Also in the last few years, factory manufacturing tolerances have improved, and the cylinder bores, pistons and rings are sprayed with moly coatings and suchlike. Everything runs in real quick.

[GLHSKEN]

You know whats odd now that I think of it. The S cars came filled with Mobil 1 from the factory and so did the ZR1 Vettes. I'm sure there are others as well.
How did they get away from poorly seated rings?
*scratches head*

My new solstice 2.0 direct injected turbo also came factory fill Mobil 1. I've been given no reason to switch yet. My Grand Prix has had mobil one it's entire life. The car HAULS Azz...

My engines and my buddies have as well. No issues. Trendy comments are just that to me. No real proof has been shown. I'm happy with the color and feel of the oil I dump out of the GP after 7500 miles. It did it's job

[GLHSKEN]

Also in the last few years, factory manufacturing tolerances have improved, and the cylinder bores, pistons and rings are sprayed with moly coatings and suchlike. Everything runs in real quick.


Exactly.. Even with the moly rings the 2.X turbo's use, seating the rings is a 5 minute task

[Gaboon]

My new solstice 2.0 direct injected turbo also came factory fill Mobil 1. I've been given no reason to switch yet. My Grand Prix has had mobil one it's entire life. The car HAULS Azz...

My engines and my buddies have as well. No issues. Trendy comments are just that to me. No real proof has been shown. I'm happy with the color and feel of the oil I dump out of the GP after 7500 miles. It did it's job

I've used Mobil 1 myself for years only trying other brands just for the sake of it and haven't had any issues with M1 either.
Funny though, during those trials of other oils, my engine crapped pistons a few times. I always said, "I should have used the mobil"
Coincidence??? I wonder.:)

[turbovanman²]

I've used quite a few of them, only difference I noted was oil colour and price of course, :nod:

[1966 dart wagon]

im a lil confused so the s cars came factory with synthetic oil in them? how about a normal 89 daytona t2? what kinda oil would i put in that:confused:

[turbovanman²]

im a lil confused so the s cars came factory with synthetic oil in them? how about a normal 89 daytona t2? what kinda oil would i put in that:confused:


If its broken in, I would run 10w30 in the Winter and 10W40 in the summer, if your at stock boost, 10w30 is fine.

[boost geek]

Our friends here in Alberta have a Supra wake boat, this thing is awesome, has a 5.7 GM in it which calls for 15/40 from the factory. It's running Rotella T as is my S.C.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/IMG_0501_1.jpg

[3Bar_Mopar]

Dude, you have to put 3000 miles or 5000 km's on a rerung engine BEFORE you switch to synthetic.

I used Pennzoil Platinum right after I seated the rings in my Daytona rebuild, with a 40 mile blast of hard driving....it never smoked and had excellent compression.

[turbovanman²]

I used Pennzoil Platinum right after I seated the rings in my Daytona rebuild, with a 40 mile blast of hard driving....it never smoked and had excellent compression.


Maybe you got lucky, :thumb: Even the oil manufacterers say to wait 3000 miles.

[Turbo Joe]

ok then, but for an off road use only vehicle, there are other methods.

[1966 dart wagon]

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

wow after reading that it makes me want to go to royal purple for my oil now..:confused2: im running mobile 1 10w40 right now. i guess next summer i'll swap it out for rp after i do some more mods and what not:D

[quantum]

Anyone heard anything about the M1 truck and suv version of their oil? It seems a bit more viscious, but I'm not sure if it is exactly the same as the regular M1 only with more additives.

[t3rse]

Our friends here in Alberta have a Supra wake boat, this thing is awesome, has a 5.7 GM in it which calls for 15/40 from the factory. It's running Rotella T as is my S.C.

->Rotella T

ditto...love the stuff.

[contraption22]

Because the engines were fully broken in at the factory on an engine dyno, ;)

I don't buy that. All the all Corvettes from 1992-up came with Mobil 1 as factory fill. It saved GM from having to install air-to-air oil coolers on them. The engines were not broken in on a dyno before vehicle assembly.

As for the Shelby cars...They were assembly line cars with top-end swaps. As far as I know, the bottom ends didn't leave the vehicle at the Shelby facility. I'd wouldn't be suprised if Shelby Automobiles didn't even change the oil from factory fill and Shelby just collected the endorsement check from Mobil Oil.



On a fresh motor I have a ritual of cranking her up on fresh conventional oil. Bring her up to operating temperature. Then let her cool. After it's completely cool, I repeat the above. Then drain and fill with synthetic.

If I waited 3000 miles before I switched to synthetic on the Horizon it may never get done.

[Mario]

Mike, thanks for the words, and the last comment was a good laugh.

[turbovanman²]

I don't buy that. All the all Corvettes from 1992-up came with Mobil 1 as factory fill. It saved GM from having to install air-to-air oil coolers on them. The engines were not broken in on a dyno before vehicle assembly.

As for the Shelby cars...They were assembly line cars with top-end swaps. As far as I know, the bottom ends didn't leave the vehicle at the Shelby facility. I'd wouldn't be suprised if Shelby Automobiles didn't even change the oil from factory fill and Shelby just collected the endorsement check from Mobil Oil.



On a fresh motor I have a ritual of cranking her up on fresh conventional oil. Bring her up to operating temperature. Then let her cool. After it's completely cool, I repeat the above. Then drain and fill with synthetic.

If I waited 3000 miles before I switched to synthetic on the Horizon it may never get done.

I buy it, I've seen the factory vids where they dyno every car/truck and put it thru its paces. Then of course, theres the PDIers that beat the living sh*t out of them-I know, I used to do it, :clap:

Decided to do some digging, found some pro's on using synthetic oil for break in and using it right away-


http://www.inlinepro.com/allentech/synthetic_oil.html

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7007980

http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp

Amsoil recommends 500 miles for gas engines, 5000 miles for Diesels-

http://www.enhancedsyntheticoil.com/Converting_to_AMSOIL.htm

http://www.jbspowercentre.com/pdf/redline.pdf

I stand corrected, last time I did some searching, they said wait 3000 miles.

Ack, will these guys make up there mind-found this from Redline-


Can I break-in my engine on Red Line Oil?


We recommend using petroleum 10w30 motor oil on break in to ensure proper piston ring seating. If you allow 1500 to 2000 miles in a street engine or 20 to 30 minutes on the dyno at low rpm, the rings will have had sufficient time to seat and the high initial break-in wear will have occurred.




Myth: You have to break your motor in on synthetic in order to run synthetic. Good one huh! I had never
heard this one before.
Fact: Pat says, “Synthetic oil can be used during break in, after, or even with mineral based oils. For new
cars and trucks, wait until the manufacturer’s first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles
(gasoline engine) or 8,000 to 10,000 (diesel engine). Some ASE certified technicians like JuniorDamato,
who writes a column called “Auto Doctor”, recommends mineral oil during break in and the second oil
change for a total of about 6000 miles before switching to synthetic oil.

Half way down, they say to wait 3000 miles-

http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articles/best_kept_secret/

[moparzrule]

The 2 times I tried royal purple I cracked pistons both times (on seperate occasions). It seems like the pistons weren't scraping the oil off the walls and oil was getting into the combustion which degrades your octane and making me detonate. I will never use it again.
Castrol GTX 10W30 for me.

[contraption22]

Corvette owners would be pretty pissed if their cars showed up fresh from Bowling Green with 3000 or even 500.... or even 10 miles on them. I still don't buy it.

How many hours would an engine have to be on a dyno to simulate 500 miles of driving?

Do you think all the racers that are sworn to synthetic oils are breaking them in for hours and hours on conventional? Come on!

[turbovanman²]

Corvette owners would be pretty pissed if their cars showed up fresh from Bowling Green with 3000 or even 500.... or even 10 miles on them. I still don't buy it.

How many hours would an engine have to be on a dyno to simulate 500 miles of driving?

Do you think all the racers that are sworn to synthetic oils are breaking them in for hours and hours on conventional? Come on!

Did you not see the links I posted? :confused:

Again, I saw vids showing ALL cars being dynoed before being shipped out. I used to PDI vehicles at the dealer, I would put aprox 20 km on each one, as did the other mechanics. I don't know what you want me to say?

[contraption22]

My metric conversions may be off.... how close is 20 kilometers to 500 miles?

I have seen the same videos you have most likely at the Bowling Green Assy plant. The cars are driven onto the rollers, taken up to speed to make sure there are no drivetrain vibrations, and driven off.

Some random cars are pulled form the line and given a road test on a simulation track to check for squeaks and rattles.

[turbovanman²]

Why are you arguing? I posted links, I don't know what to say, I said I am confused at what is the right thing to do? :confused: :o
Do your own thing, as no one has a concrete answer.


or even 10 miles on them. I still don't buy it.

20 km's IS more than 10 miles, :thumb:

[contraption22]

Because I'm an idiot, thats why. :)

[turbovanman²]

Because I'm an idiot, thats why. :)

Ok, I'll take that, :clap: :lol:

[moparzrule]

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf



Anybody switch to valvoline durablend? According to this test it seems like good stuff, especially for the money. I was gonna run amsoil, because I've tried royal purple before and didn't like it, but amsoil is really expensive and if valvoline is that good why not run it?

[RoadWarrior222]

Bummer, find something good and they discontinue it.... seems like our Walmart has stopped carrying the tech 2000 synthetic :( they've still got a couple of litre bottles of 5W30, but no 4 litre jugs of any grade...

[moparzrule]

I was just in walmart today and they had plenty of it...???

[Dusty_Duster]

Walmart had a sale on Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic 10w-30, 5 quarts for $18. That's the stuff I use in my Ram, for half price. Too bad I just changed my oil! :mad:

[badandy]

Walmart had a sale on Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic 10w-30, 5 quarts for $18. That's the stuff I use in my Ram, for half price. Too bad I just changed my oil! :mad:

This is interesting:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/87322-who-makes-tech2000-synthetic-motor-oil-for-walmart.html
Although I'm not sure how I feel about quaker state I'm sure it's decent stuff.

[turbovanman²]

Anybody switch to valvoline durablend? According to this test it seems like good stuff, especially for the money. I was gonna run amsoil, because I've tried royal purple before and didn't like it, but amsoil is really expensive and if valvoline is that good why not run it?

Isn't Durablend a 50/50 mix?

I love the reasoning in the Walmart link, Tech2000 is $2 a litre, Mobil one is $4.50 a litre, so Mobil 1 MUST be better, :lol:

[tryingbe]

This is interesting:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/87322-who-makes-tech2000-synthetic-motor-oil-for-walmart.html
Although I'm not sure how I feel about quaker state I'm sure it's decent stuff.

That information is 7 years old, supplier for Supertech synthetic oil could have be changed during these time.

Though, I have a cylinder head 30k since rebuilt, ran nothing but Supertech synthetic that I need to take the valve cover off and take pictures this weekend.

[turbovanman²]

That information is 7 years old, supplier for Supertech synthetic oil could have be changed during these time.

Though, I have a cylinder head 30k since rebuilt, ran nothing but Supertech synthetic that I need to take the valve cover off and take pictures this weekend.

Thats all I use in my wifes 98 Jimmy, goes in clean, comes out clean. 180,000 km's and doesn't use a drop of oil.

[MiniMopar]

Also, just because it's manufactured by QS doesn't means it's made to the same standard. Walmart is a big company looking to cut anywhere it can to undercut the competition. Keep that in mind.

Amsoil is a big cost upfront, but you save quite a bit of money in the long run if you get the good stuff and follow their recommended drain intervals. All you have to do is change the filter. Even if you cut their interval in half, you can still come out ahead depending how many miles per year you put on your car.

I've done a lot more reading on oils recently and although Mobil 1 has backpedaled and is using a Group III base oil now, the additives in modern Group III oils have come a long way. In some ways Group III oils have become nearly as good as Group IV/PAO oils.

If you have the time, this is a really good article I came across while trying to figure this stuff out.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

[turbovanman²]

Thanks Russ, and agreed that Walmart will undercut no matter what.

Oh, I posted that link up in another oil thread, hehehe!

Another great but long read-

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_additive.htm

[MiniMopar]

Oh, I posted that link up in another oil thread, hehehe!

Oops, sorry. :) I talked with that guy a few years ago about oil filters. Cool site.

[tryingbe]

Not the best lighting, but you get the idea. 30k Supertech synthetic on rebuilt head.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/daytonahead1.jpg
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/daytonahead2.jpg
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/daytonahead3.jpg
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/daytonahead4.jpg
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/daytonahead5.jpg
http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/daytonahead6.jpg

[Dusty_Duster]

Well, the stuff I saw in Wal Mart was actually Quaker State brand; it wasn't generic. But I didn't buy it anyways.

[MiniMopar]

I don't generally give them my business much anymore for other reasons, but that's just me.

[Turbodave]

I don't generally give them my business much anymore for other reasons, but that's just me.

:amen: Been fighting for a few years trying to stop them from building a 24 hour Super-Walmart at the end of my street (lost that battle). I would be a Hypocrite if I shopped there.

Fortunately, Costco has Mobil 1 for a decent price and that's what I run in most of my vehicles.

[MiniMopar]

Seriously? Like across 83? That's effed up. Isn't there one on Rollins already?

[BadAssPerformance]

Scooter races to Walmart during the meeting at Dave's ;)

Although I would be if I was Dave in his situation, I'm not a Wally World boycotter... but then again I only buy stuff from them that costs less than but is available everywhere else and made in the same place as it is elsewhere.

[tryingbe]

I haven't spend a dime at Walmart for more than 18 months now, except for a $10 Walmart gift card.

[Turbodave]

Seriously? Like across 83? That's effed up. Isn't there one on Rollins already?

Just south of my neighborhood, on the NW corner of 83 and Monaville, where the little soybean field is now. It's going to be a mess because the roads are already used beyond capacity, so the additional traffic is going to cause problems.

They want to close the ghetto Walmart down the road (off Rollins). Before this started I went there a few times, got to witness an arrest each time, once they had a guy cuffed on the hood of the car next to mine. That place is like the backstage of Jerry Springer inside.

[Turbodave]

Scooter races to Walmart during the meeting at Dave's ;)


At least I can walk downt he street and borrow a shopping cart or two to move engines around on...;)

[MiniMopar]

LOL...the new Walmart in Palatine is not much different. Palatine has some questionable areas, but the location of the Walmart is in the middle of everything else. Yet when you go inside it is chaos and destruction and the people walking around fit the part. I don't get it.

How will moving the Walmart a few miles down the road help the crime there? More likely it will bring the weirdos closer to you.

[Turbodave]

How will moving the Walmart a few miles down the road help the crime there? More likely it will bring the weirdos closer to you.

That's why I went to countless meetings opposing it. The issue is that I'm in an unincorporated part of Lake Villa, Roundlake Beach is south of us and they are annexing in this chunk of Land for the Walmart, none of the revenue it generates goes towards reducing my taxes, or towards the Lake Villa schools or services that that serve the neighborhoods on 3 sides of it. They are building this place in a residential area when there are a number of vacant lots and abandoned stores just 1/2 mile south where all the other shopping is located.

The logic is that their current store is too small (I can agree with that), and it's less expensive for them to build new than remodel the old building (That makes no sense). The Mayor of Round Lake beach is an arrogant bastard and acts like he works for Walmart the way he treats anyone opposed to the project. He doesn't realize that moving an anchor store like that will result in many other stores in that shopping center going out, leaving his town looking deserted. Despite a number of standing room only meetings and hundreds of people opposed to the project it's still going through and supposed to break ground in spring. I doubt I will ever shop there once it's open, and will do everything I can legally do to keep fighting it until then.

Anyhow sorry to steer the thread off topic, but that's my reasoning for buying anything but walmart oil.

[RoadWarrior222]

I'm not a Wally World boycotter... but then again I only buy stuff from them that costs less than but is available everywhere else and made in the same place as it is elsewhere.

Yeah, I just pillage them for the loss leaders and shop elsewhere mostly. I avoid their clothes though, utter crap, wear through their jeans in a matter of weeks. The only part of Walmart I really like is the tire and lube center, we've got so many cowboys in that business in this town that I hope that the Walmart tire and lube does damage their business. So I end up there when I need a "can't be assed rolling in the snow" oil change or something.

Might end up buying a cheap die grinder there though, can't find it anywhere else.

I gotta give them their due though, they do keep pensioners from roaming the streets and beating up innocent kids.

[johnl]

Since Mobil One is quasi synthetic and Supertech is half the price and is quasi synthetic too, I'll take it, :D and, while I'm at it, I'll also change out, and in, another one of those lowest priced but good qualty steel center/properly bypassed and properly anti-drain backed Wal Mart Supertech filters too. I'll do it often, and I hope I go the H*** for saving money at Wal Mart. Evil me.:thumb:

[contraption22]

I love Walmart. And I love the Supertech oil. I don't much care who makes it. It goes in and comes out clean, and I've seen no evidence of wear on anything I have used it in.

What's everybody's problem with WalMart?

[dodgeman87]

Gee, you got to get me started. Well first they have discriminated against people, second when they open a store they usually close up other stores within a five mile radius, third they just had a another lawsuit where they were not paynig their emplyees overtime, fourth they keep your hours low so you aren't eligible for health insurance, fifth their stores are messy, sixth I could go on but why. Ever since Mr. Walton died they have gone downhill in my opinion.

[RoadWarrior222]

But I can't stay out of the place, had an hour to kill yesterday... and w00t! they restocked on the synthetic here, happy now.

[ShadowFromHell]

I haven't been to walmart in probably 4-6 months. I told my fiance we weren't going there anymore and we haven't. Its actually not hard, and the little bit extra we spend at LOCAL stores still isn't what more then we (she, lol) was spending on things we didn't need, but were "on sale". Actually saving money!