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View Full Version : Help! TII, Code 13



MiniMoparKing
06-24-2007, 01:25 PM
Help!!

The daytona started acting up today, threw a code 13 at me, and it's acting like it has a vacuum leak, Erratic idle, hesitation, occasional sputtering, etc. but I am unable to find a vacuum leak anywhere!!

The first indication that something was wrong was the fact that it's not making it's usual popping sounds out of the exhaust during deceleration. (3" straight thru, so it's brutually obvious)

The last time it did that, I did have a vacuum leak, but I fixed it.

Someone please clue me in here, it's making me nuts! Hopefully the MAP sensor isn't on it's way out. :(

TurboGLH
06-24-2007, 02:42 PM
Code 13 is map vacuum, check to make sure that you have a leak free line to the map sensor that's not shared with anything else.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=30

MiniMoparKing
06-24-2007, 03:18 PM
I just went out and checked all the vacuum hoses again, just in case I missed one, and I did. The main hose that goes into the intake manifold had a nice crack in the bottom of it, right where I couldn't see it. I found this out when I made the mistake of pulling on that hose, and it broke off in my hand.

Thankfully I keep extra rubber fuel line around of various inner diameters.

Anyway, with that replaced, it runs/idles much better now, but I took it out for a test drive up the road, and still no popping, and it threw code 13 again as I was pulling up my street. It did not drop below Idle RPM this time. The check engine light is always accompanied by a little jump from the engine, telling me that the problem still exists.

As far as the MAP line goes, it's routed in the stock fashion. As in there's a large T that goes to a number of places. How would I go about removing those and routing them another way, to provide a direct connection from the Intake Manifold to the MAP? I don't think it will work.

ShadowFromHell
06-24-2007, 06:44 PM
my 89 tona pulled this a while back and I tracked it down by plugging of difrent things (boost gauge, FPR) and letting it idle to see if it would throw the code. Turned out, the section of vac line running to the cabin was bad. Replaced that, and I was good to go.

TurboGLH
06-24-2007, 09:15 PM
I just went out and checked all the vacuum hoses again, just in case I missed one, and I did. The main hose that goes into the intake manifold had a nice crack in the bottom of it, right where I couldn't see it. I found this out when I made the mistake of pulling on that hose, and it broke off in my hand.

Thankfully I keep extra rubber fuel line around of various inner diameters.

Anyway, with that replaced, it runs/idles much better now, but I took it out for a test drive up the road, and still no popping, and it threw code 13 again as I was pulling up my street. It did not drop below Idle RPM this time. The check engine light is always accompanied by a little jump from the engine, telling me that the problem still exists.

As far as the MAP line goes, it's routed in the stock fashion. As in there's a large T that goes to a number of places. How would I go about removing those and routing them another way, to provide a direct connection from the Intake Manifold to the MAP? I don't think it will work.

What I mean by don't share the line is, after the main hose is the splitter with x number of feeds off of it. You should always have one dedicated feed to the baro/read solenoid (ie the map) and one dedicated to the fpr. Everything else should use the remaining feeds, with T's as necessary. Pull the line at the solenoid and verify that you have vacuum there, if it's still getting a 13 then you still have a bad signal somewhere. Could be a bad map, but check the vacuum lines again to be sure.

MiniMopar
06-25-2007, 12:20 PM
The 89 SMEC is very sensitive to sluggish MAP response, as I discovered when I put an 89 SMEC into my 88. When I did was create a little brass manifold that sort of emulates the original stock lines. The original setup has a 3/8" vacuum line that has a 3/8" -> 4x1/8" adapter. I emulated this by soldering some brass tubing together. This separates the four circuits, unlike a typical plastic T fitting.

MiniMoparKing
06-25-2007, 01:50 PM
Thanks.

I'll go pick up some new vaccum hose tomorrow, and re-work the lines like you said. I will post results when I have them. :)

Turbodave
06-28-2007, 02:31 PM
Another thing to check is for evidence of fuel in the vacuum hose coming of the fuel pressure regulator (the one that t's into the MAP line). I've seen a bunch of cars with code 13's that were fixed by replacing a leaking fuel pressure reguator.

Tony Hanna
06-28-2007, 03:53 PM
Another thing that will cause a 13 is moisture in the MAP line or in the MAP sensor itself. I saw this first hand while using the old "water feed to remove carbon" trick on the Sundance and got a little to agressive with the water.:o The water pooled in the intake and boost forced some into the MAP line.