I've been very busy...

[8valves]

The one piece is for a member of the board, they can pipe up if they choose to do so. The velocity stacks were hand fabricated from .060 6061 H14 aluminum. Please excuse the welding to the base intake to the new plenum, I found that dirty 20 year old aluminum has many impurities in it and is a total PITA. I will probably never do another one piece again because of it. I did 4 full passes in there to prevent any leakage, and use ultra high purity helium for shielding to try to help... sheesh.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0032.JPG

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0035.JPG

Those are the two piece plenum's I've made now. One is for my car and one will be sold when I finish cleaning up the TD pattern TB plate I made. My car will not use that TB style so I'm waiting on a flange.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0038.JPG

Hooray radius port entry! Enough of these BS flat hole entries that I had to run on last year! Plenum volume is what I would say is a hair larger than what I would prefer on these cars, but it'll do.

[mcsvt]

That's some good stuff to be busy with! The welds on the 1 piece don't look fancy but I'd be plenty happy with them under my hood, that's for sure.

If nobody jumps in line you can PM me with a price on the one that will be FS when ready.

[8valves]

That's some good stuff to be busy with! The welds on the 1 piece don't look fancy but I'd be plenty happy with them under my hood, that's for sure.

If nobody jumps in line you can PM me with a price on the one that will be FS when ready.

Is this better for you then? I like welding aluminum a lot, I just like it to be new and clean!

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF00581.JPG

[mcsvt]

Yeah that looks good to me :nod: :)

I've tried to tig. My hands just aren't steady enough. So I commend you on some excellent welding!

[dds78910]

I have been wanting to do the same thing with my 1 piece intake. I started cutting it up, I was just tring to find someone to go halfs on the D shapped tube since they wont sell it less that 2 feet. Looks like you did a good job!

[8valves]

I have been wanting to do the same thing with my 1 piece intake. I started cutting it up, I was just tring to find someone to go halfs on the D shapped tube since they wont sell it less that 2 feet. Looks like you did a good job!

Thanks, I actually started with about 8.5 ft of the half round. I would've liked the full D shape, but the volume becomes fairly large from my math in the length it would need to be.

[Dave]

Nice job Aaron. I can't wait until it shows up. You've definately spent some time on it. :thumb: Are the ports in the rear for vacuum nipples, or am I missing their purpose?

-Bryan

[8valves]

Nice job Aaron. I can't wait until it shows up. You've definately spent some time on it. :thumb: Are the ports in the rear for vacuum nipples, or am I missing their purpose?

-Bryan

Yes, they are large enough that they will be able to feed multiple sources if need be.

[cordes]

Very cool. I think that will be a big benefit from the info you posted last year about the box intake that you had.

[8valves]

Very cool. I think that will be a big benefit from the info you posted last year about the box intake that you had.

Yeah, and boxes suck... so this should be a big step for him. Not to mention the veloctiy stacks, although they didn't turn out quite perfect to each other since they were hand formed, will prove huge gains over an open floor. Also, the ports up top have been opened extensively for a couple of inches down. I couldn't stand putting this thing together and then not port it up top while you have perfect access. Unfortunately that added a lot of time to the build.

[cordes]

How did you make the stacks?

[8valves]

How did you make the stacks?

Ha, that's a rough subject.

I started with a flat sheet of 6061 H14 aluminum, .060" thick, and annealed it (heat to roughly 700* then let cool slowly) then formed it in a rough 4x2" shape and welded the seam. From there I used a set of forms on teh edges and several different hammers to get the right radius over the edge. They are slightly more errect on the back side due to the weld not wanting to give much... I should've gas welded them which would let them be more flexible but they turned out alright. Then welding .060" to .250" turned out to be fun all on it's own... bla bla. They were a pain but I think the gain will be worth it.

Plus, besides Warrne's individual setup, I've never seen another TM intake with raised velocity stacks. Even my own personal two piece intakes have the radius in the floor. A good option, but second to only raised stacks in my opinion.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF00181.JPG

[cordes]

Wow, that looks like it took some time for sure.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Yeah, and boxes suck... What's so bad about the 4"x4" box section vs. the half round or D shape plenumn?

[8valves]

The plenum size becomes way too large, and it promotes a bunch of stagnant air in the upper corners.

The full D shape is the best RMR offers. Half round next, then the box.

[Dave]

Man I'm gonna haul a$$. :cool:

[Orangetona]

Man I'm gonna haul a$$. :cool:

Man, that looks awesome. You ARE gonna haul a$$!

[cordes]

Man I'm gonna haul a$$. :cool:

Either way you will look good doing it.

[Dave]

Intake showed up today. Man it's such an improvement over stock. Very excited to install it. I was browsing other people's engine setup and a lot of folks running my similar setup running around 23-25psi on a "ported 1 or 2pc" can make around 300-315HP. I really wonder how much this will improve my engine efficiency. I'm hoping I can hit 300 on just 20psi with the aid of my +1 ported 782 head.

[8valves]

Intake showed up today. Man it's such an improvement over stock. Very excited to install it. I was browsing other people's engine setup and a lot of folks running my similar setup running around 23-25psi on a "ported 1 or 2pc" can make around 300-315HP. I really wonder how much this will improve my engine efficiency. I'm hoping I can hit 300 on just 20psi with the aid of my +1 ported 782 head.


Are you on a ported exhaust manny, or anything similar? My car used to make 310/315 tq at 20 psi on pump back when it was a ported two piece, 52mm TB, 2" ic piping, and my old dual TD core cooler with the 30R pushing air.

I'm hoping you should see some fairly good gains from that intake alone, just so long as you don't have a big issue on the exhaust side anywhere. The plenum volume should be in the neighborhood of 3.2L.

[crazy1eye]

Nicely done :thumb:

Yup, that on top of a nicely ported lower 2 piece will be sweet :nod:

[Pat]

Very nice work. I've been eyeing Ross Machine Racing's site for a while wishing I had the welding skills to do something for my car. Interested in doing any T-III work?

[mcsvt]

Have you had a chance to do any more work on them?

And I was serious about my offer :)

[8valves]

No, no time at all actually. I have a broken Jeep and a bunch of wrong parts for it that need to work, all the while I just moved back home for a summer internship. So that means borrowing the G-parents car for a week.

My girlfriend's Stratus got hit by a car yesterday, and this morning my mom got hit by a deer in the Durango.

What a trip, I tell ya!

I'm sure you were serious, I've had lots of people, suprisingly, contact me about it. I'm working on getting ahold of a welder locally that has enough juice to get it done. If I can get that I can continue to produce some stuff for people.

[mcsvt]

O I was also sure others wanted in.

I can understand the no time to get things done as well. I just like updates, especially on cool ideas like this.

[Dave]

Aaron, I have a MoparzRule heavily hogged out exhaust manifold, .63 turbine with a Stage 2 wheel, 2.5" SV, 3" downpipe to a 3" straight pipe out the side.

[Dave]

Also, what would be a good way to do a test on this manifold? I just want to see the equality of all 4 runners. I don't want a cylinder going lean on me.

[8valves]

Also, what would be a good way to do a test on this manifold? I just want to see the equality of all 4 runners. I don't want a cylinder going lean on me.

Hmm, might want to talk to Steve Mercier about that. I guess you could put a head on a flowbench and test all intake sides fo ra baseline, then check it with the manifold attached. The differences between baseline and after would indicate how each runner is flowing. The cylinders that are closest to the baseline flow the best, and the ones farthest flow the worst.

If you did it I would make sure to put a TB on it when you do it. Probably an elbow that you'll use for your IC pipes on there as well to dictate incoming air is it would be in the car. Maybe that's overkill though.

My thought process is that there are countless people out there who run home-made intakes that have far less thought process than this one, and they seem to turn out well enough. Unless each runner is WAY off, then it won't make a difference anyways since you don't have a standalone that can do cylinder specific adjustments.

Also of note, flowing it as I described is not the same as having a plenum full of positive pressure and rather stagnant air if you will. There's a couple other things out there I could think of that might effect it, but maybe I'm reaching too far.

[Dave]

I may need to stick it on to one of my school's bench diesel motors, pressure the manifold with the significant i/c piping design then messure the flow at each runner. I wont be able to pressurize the manifold with just an air compressor. There's obviously not enough volume to fill my intake with just an air hose.

[8valves]

I may need to stick it on to one of my school's bench diesel motors, pressure the manifold with the significant i/c piping design then messure the flow at each runner. I wont be able to pressurize the manifold with just an air compressor. There's obviously not enough volume to fill my intake with just an air hose.

Just make sure you don't accidently over-pressurize it. I made those stacks with .060" aluminum. They should hold up fine to 35-40 psi... but I don't know about past that. In all reality they should be fine no matter what, since the design makes them stronger than a straight piece, but I'd be careful if you're dealing with diesels or compressors, and so on.

[GLHNSLHT2]

bring the thread back from the dead. Arron curious as to how big you made the diameter for the intake holes in the plenum itself. I got mine cut today and am curious as to how close my intake holes are to yours.

[GLHSKEN]

Hey Aaron, How's my intake coming????

Brant just signed on at UTI in Houston... Auto body is where he is headed.

[MOPAR2YA]

Ha, that's a rough subject.


Plus, besides Warrne's individual setup, I've never seen another TM intake with raised velocity stacks.



The Lonewolf Performance intake uses a raised velocity stack.:nod:

[BadAssPerformance]

The Lonewolf Performance intake uses a raised velocity stack.:nod:

Yeah, I remember Andre mentioning that, but it was not raidsed too far? How tall is it?

How tall is the stack in your intake Aaron?

one of these days I'll get some pics of the fabrication of mine up ;)

[MOPAR2YA]

About 1/2 inch.

[GLHNSLHT2]

bring the thread back from the dead. Arron curious as to how big you made the diameter for the intake holes in the plenum itself. I got mine cut today and am curious as to how close my intake holes are to yours.

bump Aarron????

[8valves]

bring the thread back from the dead. Arron curious as to how big you made the diameter for the intake holes in the plenum itself. I got mine cut today and am curious as to how close my intake holes are to yours.

Sorry about the delay.

They were matched to my ported two peice lower, so they could be used as a template for others to port their lowers to match if they're like. They are damn near, or at, I can't remember really, 2" ID with the radiused lip.

EDIT: I just realized maybe you were talking about the one piece...? If that's the case, I just ported the hell out of the upper half of them, used that as a template, then cut away roughly and used a porting bit to get it where I needed it.

[8valves]

The Lonewolf Performance intake uses a raised velocity stack.:nod:

Ah, well cool then. I've never seen inside your 16V intakes and the only 8V intake I've seen from you guys was the one that was on my car... and it most certainly didn't. It actually didn't even have a radiused entry into the runners, so that's all I had to go off of. I'm glad to hear you have been changing some of those things up.

[Directconnection]

Aaron, my friend practiced welding on one of my 1-piece intakes. The weld was ok, but I could see pinhole type pits here and there. He did it with a mig and a;luminum wire as he said he was lazy and hates TIG. He said what he could do is weld it mig with the aluminum wire, then lay a bead of tig over it to seal it up. What's your take? Oh, he heated it up with what he calls a rosebud and wrapped it to keep the heat in.


I don't want my 2-piece upper to be a POS that looks nice, but has pinhole leaks.

[BadAssPerformance]

Too lazy to TIG correctly but willing to MIG then TIG over? Hmmm... something doesn't sound right.

I only TIG, everything, even simple exhaust jobs, takes longer, but is easier in my opinion but maybe thats cuz I never played with a MIG much at all.

For something like an intake, if a TIG is available, I'd never even think of MIGing it!

If used improperly, MIG = the 'hot glue gun' of welders :D

[8valves]

Aaron, my friend practiced welding on one of my 1-piece intakes. The weld was ok, but I could see pinhole type pits here and there. He did it with a mig and a;luminum wire as he said he was lazy and hates TIG. He said what he could do is weld it mig with the aluminum wire, then lay a bead of tig over it to seal it up. What's your take? Oh, he heated it up with what he calls a rosebud and wrapped it to keep the heat in.


I don't want my 2-piece upper to be a POS that looks nice, but has pinhole leaks.

Wow... I had issues welding Bryan's one piece up, as the years of gas, oil, and grime had permeated into the metal fairly well. If I had spent twice the amount of time cleaning it, it likely would have only taken half the time to weld it!

Using pure helium (99% or better) will help welding cast aluminum pieces that are old. It brings the impurities out as you weld it. With aluminum, pre heating shouldn't be neccessary really. It could help, but I didn't need it.

If you're doing a two piece upper, it should be new material anyways so none of this should matter. Just take a whole bunch of time cleaning it with a SS brush that has only ever been used on aluminum, then acetone before you weld it.

[Directconnection]

If you're doing a two piece upper, it should be new material anyways so none of this should matter. Just take a whole bunch of time cleaning it with a SS brush that has only ever been used on aluminum, then acetone before you weld it.


What do you mean the 2 piece upper should be new? It's older than the
1-piece he experimented with. He migged it just as an experiment and just wanted to see how bad the casting was.

I work at an engine shop so I can have it pressure washed real well prior to welding.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Sorry about the delay.

They were matched to my ported two peice lower, so they could be used as a template for others to port their lowers to match if they're like. They are damn near, or at, I can't remember really, 2" ID with the radiused lip.

EDIT: I just realized maybe you were talking about the one piece...? If that's the case, I just ported the hell out of the upper half of them, used that as a template, then cut away roughly and used a porting bit to get it where I needed it.


No I was curious as to your 2 piece uppper. Mine are 1.920" as that's the size of the gasket. I guess for most .080" is close to 2.000 :) For me that's still quite a bit.

[8valves]

No I was curious as to your 2 piece uppper. Mine are 1.920" as that's the size of the gasket. I guess for most .080" is close to 2.000 :) For me that's still quite a bit.

From what I remember they're 2.000" in the top half as well, if you want to go by machining standards :nod:

I didn't machine them myself, they were done for me. I will mic one tommorow (today?) and let you know.

[ottawa rogue]

how do you guys feel about trying to weld aluminum with a stick?

[8valves]

how do you guys feel about trying to weld aluminum with a stick?

I don't weld anything with a stick. I like to think of it as bad for my health.

[ottawa rogue]

why so? i'm not trying to be a jerk, i'm just curious.

[8valves]

why so? i'm not trying to be a jerk, i'm just curious.

I was being slightly sarcastic. Stick welders are great for what they are, useful where there is no gas or 220V readily available, etc.

TIG is a superior process for control and quality of the weld, as long as the person doing it knows what they're doing!

I don't even know if you can ARC aluminum... :confused2:

[ottawa rogue]

sure you can. MG welding and K-T industries both make rod for welding aluminum, i think Prostar does also.
i've used it a couple of times at work, it welds pretty nicely
I'll agree with you though, TIG is better.....now if i only had a TIG setup:(

[8valves]

sure you can. MG welding and K-T industries both make rod for welding aluminum, i think Prostar does also.
i've used it a couple of times at work, it welds pretty nicely
I'll agree with you though, TIG is better.....now if i only had a TIG setup:(

Cool cool... I had no idea. You won't find too many people in the aftermarket performance world using a buzz box on their stuff! :lol:

[8valves]

No I was curious as to your 2 piece uppper. Mine are 1.920" as that's the size of the gasket. I guess for most .080" is close to 2.000 :) For me that's still quite a bit.

I can't find any calipers anywhere, so by guesstimating by the tape measure it looks as though 1.920" would be damn near spot on. Hope that helps!

[ottawa rogue]

Cool cool... I had no idea. You won't find too many people in the aftermarket performance world using a buzz box on their stuff! :lol:

ya, that's the problem i have, my welder is an a/c rig, and this rod is for d/c straight only.
i'm thinking of upgrading welders over the winter anyway.
my biggest problem is that i weld better with a stick than a wire, just had more practice with a rod i guess
here's a link to messer welding's site, the rod to look at is the 400 series
http://www.messerwelding.com/

[GLHNSLHT2]

I can't find any calipers anywhere, so by guesstimating by the tape measure it looks as though 1.920" would be damn near spot on. Hope that helps!

thanks, was just curious. I cut mine 1.920. Linking to some pics in a new thread.