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SwiftTech
02-01-2006, 12:20 PM
Just wanted to post up a few pics of the shifter I cut down for my daytona. I removed 2.5" from the middle of it then welded it back together. The reverse lockout piece also had to be cut and rivited back together. I didn't take any pics during though but here are the after shots. Stock shifter is pictured for comparison and the piece I cut out is also there.

cordes
02-03-2006, 08:38 PM
How do you like the shifter now? I have herad some say that the increased shift effort is rather undesirable. It looks good, thanks for posting the pics.

turbomopar87
02-03-2006, 08:45 PM
Take some pics after its installed. I would like to see how it looks. Keep posted on how you like the shift too. I have gone back and forth thinking about if I wanted to shorten my 87 shelby z shifter.

BadAssPerformance
02-03-2006, 09:03 PM
Cool work.

What year shifter is that, '84 like your car?

SwiftTech
02-04-2006, 06:39 PM
no its an 87 shifter. I'll take some pics of it installed. It does take a little more effort to shift but not too much. I love the way it shifts now. Plus the shifter is in just the right position I think. Its just too bad I tore the shift boot a little while installing it.

Garret
02-04-2006, 06:57 PM
The shift effort is not noticeable at all, I did the same mod on my car 2 years ago, and Groaned when I had to drive a stock 85 T1 daytona around for a while with it's 3 inch longer shift... it was like driving a truck

Mario
02-04-2006, 07:02 PM
Yes, at times I've often thought a lasso was needed for shifting a turbo mopar with a stock shifter set-up.

SwiftTech
02-04-2006, 07:03 PM
as promised here they are. Please excuse the mess. haven't had time to clean the car out yet. The last three pics are of the shifter in 1st, 2nd, and neutral respectively

cordes
02-04-2006, 09:55 PM
OK, I might be looking into this mod shortly. Thanks for all the replies as to the shift effort, and the pics. Nice checker board interior by the way.

altered7151
02-04-2006, 10:20 PM
Anybody try this with the later model shifter with the bend in it? Just wondering if the bend will cause some problems with the shortened reverse plunger.

turbomopar87
02-04-2006, 11:44 PM
Thanks alot for the pics and info...i am definatly gonna put this on the list with the rest of finishing my shelby z's interior. How mush did you take off exactly? i like how it sits just abouve the boot,a dn that you were able to keep the stock boot too. I didnt want to have a differnt boot/no boot at all.

also, just wondering how you shortened the cable that runs through the center...did you keep the same top half of the cable with the little ring in it, or did you simply cut it and attach something wider to the top of the cable?(what i planned on doing)

thanks

TopDollar69
02-05-2006, 01:00 PM
When I cut mine down, I used the reverse lock out rod as my guide for how much to cut out. I actually drilled a hole through one of the balls, it worked very well. I havent had any problems with it. I have to say that it was one of the best mods Ive done to the car. If your making a shorter shifter for a Shadow or Lancer, get a Daytona-Lebaron unit, and cut that down. I also cut mine as close to the threaded top part as I could. This helped preserve the very slight bend the shifter has. Here are some pics of my shifter.

Bossman429
02-05-2006, 02:05 PM
I need to do this some day too. I was worried about cutting it short, then racking my elbow on the console lid in fast shifts, I don't think it will be a problem though.
When I'm racing I grab the bottom of the shifter knob/ lock ring to shift from 1 to 2, so a shortened shifter would work out nice.

Is the shifter assembly hard to set back up after removal, I've read how to adjust the shift cables in the 2.2 FWD Mopar book, but is it nearly as complicated as the book makes it out to be. Adjusting pins??? Huh?:confused:

SwiftTech
02-05-2006, 03:17 PM
Just wondering if the bend will cause some problems with the shortened reverse plunger.

The pull cable is flexable so it shouldn't be an issue.

For shortening the pull cable I forgot to take pics of that but I have a second one sitting at work that I'll use to take a few pics on how I did it. Basically I just removed 2.5" form the middle of it and rivited it back together.


Is the shifter assembly hard to set back up after removal, I've read how to adjust the shift cables in the 2.2 FWD Mopar book, but is it nearly as complicated as the book makes it out to be. Adjusting pins??? Huh?

I didn't have to readjust the cables after shortening it.

Garret
02-05-2006, 07:17 PM
I've done with the bend and you just cut before the bend. Doesn't work as well IMHO I just got a straight one from the jyard and shortened then swapped it

altered7151
02-06-2006, 01:07 AM
What didn't work, the reverse lockout or the feeling of the shifter itself? I was thinking of just cutting out the bend. Then when you weld it back up it wouldn't be any different then a straight shifter.

turbomopar87
02-06-2006, 11:31 AM
Thanks for the pics of your TopDollar69...I like your different boot set up, not sure it I want to fab something up like that or keep the stock boot now.


For shortening the pull cable I forgot to take pics of that but I have a second one sitting at work that I'll use to take a few pics on how I did it. Basically I just removed 2.5" form the middle of it and rivited it back together.

Thanks. This was a great post all together.


When I'm racing I grab the bottom of the shifter knob/ lock ring to shift from 1 to 2, so a shortened shifter would work out nice.

I accidentaly got my car into reverse while downshifting 2nd to 1st by holding the lower end of the knob/ring. Not a pretty noise.

TopDollar69
02-06-2006, 11:58 AM
The boot is from a 00 or so VW Passat. the one in my wifes Spirit is from a 00 Audi S4, and its much nicer than mine. VWs and Audis are a great place to look for nice leather shifter boots.

CletusJones
02-08-2006, 12:15 PM
That's awesome. I've been toying with doing this in my Daytona.

How is the ball attached to the shaft? Is it all one piece? I had thought about turning a shorter piece out of aluminum.

SwiftTech
02-08-2006, 12:53 PM
the ball is pressed onto some splines I believe.

CletusJones
02-08-2006, 01:51 PM
hmm
I'll have to hit the scrapyard then and see what I can find. I've got an A-520 in my Daytona, is that shifter interchangeable with any other that has the reverse lockout ring?

cordes
02-08-2006, 03:44 PM
hmm
I'll have to hit the scrapyard then and see what I can find. I've got an A-520 in my Daytona, is that shifter interchangeable with any other that has the reverse lockout ring?


555 shifter should work too. I believe they are the same part.

TopDollar69
02-08-2006, 04:20 PM
87-89 Lebaron or Daytona.

CletusJones
02-09-2006, 04:40 PM
sweet, thanks guys

SwiftTech
02-14-2006, 12:29 PM
Sorry it took a little while but herer is the pic of the reverse pull rod. The red lines are where I cut it. Then I carefully drilled a small hole in it and rivited it back together. I guess I could have drilled one of the balls in the middle but I wasn't too confident I could do that without screwing it up. So I elected to rivit it back together.

Garret
02-14-2006, 12:48 PM
I drilled thru the balls... LOL... just gotta go with a small bit first and then step up, you just gotta use the smallest one you got

CletusJones
04-13-2006, 11:25 PM
So how's the shifter working out? How's the length?

Does anyone know the thread dimensions? It's not metric thread is it?

The reason I ask is because I'm going to start on mine next week. I'm going to cut the end off, turn the end down, and re-thread. If I'm motivated enough I might make my own knob/ring too.

SwiftTech
04-14-2006, 12:39 AM
It works great. A little increase in shifting effort but tons better than stock. I'm not sure what the thread is but I thinking probably 12 or14mmx 1.5 or so, but thats just a guess.

CletusJones
04-14-2006, 08:04 AM
Cool, thanks.

Wink
04-14-2006, 10:00 AM
I've done with the bend and you just cut before the bend. Doesn't work as well IMHO I just got a straight one from the jyard and shortened then swapped it


I cut the shifter down on my Lebaron. It also has the bend on the stick. I just cut it right before the bend. However, I left enough on the end to located a shift knob. Recently, I decided to get rid of the old knob for a Hurst T-handle shifter. And since the new handle was threaded, I had to add threads to the shifter. In spite of my efforts, I wound up just welding a bolt to the end of the stick. It raised the handle up about 1", but it works well for me.

I'll post pics of the new handle when I shoot them with the digi. In the mean time, I'll share with you all the before and after height of the initial cutting.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/252000-252999/252407_7.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/252000-252999/252407_9.jpg


The new pics:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/mwinkle353/The%20Headless%20Horseman/IM000525.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/mwinkle353/The%20Headless%20Horseman/IM000524.jpg

WVRampage
04-14-2006, 11:00 PM
The hurst is great but wait till you have to drive it when its real cold out I had one in my rampage when I got it and on the 5 degree morning drives to school it was real bad on the hand. I have a 523 in the rampage now I used some 1 inch by 3/16 steel and welded up something similar to a pistol grip set up and then made a oak handle inserts for it and the shifter now is shorter and sits back close to the driver,I dont have any pics at this time or id post them.