How should I use N2O on my setup?

[SebringLX]

A guy I talk to a lot on another forum is trading in his '06 Stratus 2.4L that he had a nice N2O kit on, so he's selling the kit now. It's well over $1000 worth of N2O parts, and he's selling it for $600, so I'm really interested in it, and I think I might buy it. I'm just not sure how I should use it with my current setup if I do get it.

My car isn't done yet, so I haven't even driven it under boost yet, am I crazy to be thinking about adding N2O to it before I even know how it's going to drive with the turbo added to it? It's my '04 Sebring Sedan... Hahn Super 20G turbo, 750cc fuel injectors, Greddy e-Manage and Profec E-01... everything is being setup for 400+ whp. My 41TE auto trans has an HSTC set at 3400 rpm, full boost on this turbo should be around 3400 to 3500 rpm.

I was thinking of using a small shot to help spool up... Would that even be worth it? The HSTC is already set right at full boost... The other option of course is using the N2O as a power adder. Everything is Zex, nozzles for 25, 50, and 75 shots. 2 bottles, bottle warmers, some fancy purge kit, bunch of other stuff I can't remember. It's a wet system.

The other thought I had was doing an intercooler sprayer, but I heard that those don't really help much, and are mostly for show.

Also I only rebuilt my engine using stock SRT-4 parts... I know those will handle the power I'm throwing at them with just the turbo, as long as the tune is good. I'll probably have to run around 26 psi to get the power I want with just the turbo. Would adding N2O on top of that be crazy?

I want to get at least 400whp out of this car, but being stuck with 91 octane gas out here may make that kind of hard. I was thinking if I fell a little short of that goal on just the turbo alone, the N2O could make up for the rest. However if I do get that much out of it on the turbo alone, the N2O may be a little too much. :\

[t3rse]

i don't know from experience, but i've heard that i/c sprayers are VERY effective. I have a TNT kit coming soon (trading for it) and I plan on setting up a purge through a pvc pipe or something with pin holes to spray through the i/c. when I sit in the staging lanes the i/c gets up to 150* which is no good. I know a dsm that was just about stock that ran an 8.0 in the 1/8 b/c they took a bottle and hit the i/c directly before she ran it. Also, nitrous is a very effective chemical intercooling medium. A 20 shot on a turbo car introduced in the right place will let you run higher boost, therefore netting more than the advertised 20hp. i plan on running a 50shot with the trigger set to come on in third. Think of it as meth injection that makes a bigger boom too...

[overlordsshadow]

I was thinking of using some of that canned stuff that cools when it is expelled to cool the intercooly before a race. Its for removing gum and such from fabrics and the like. Spray the gum, it freezes and then you just chip it off. Should be hittin the track on June 15.

[88_pacifica]

I was thinking of using some of that canned stuff that cools when it is expelled to cool the intercooly before a race. Its for removing gum and such from fabrics and the like. Spray the gum, it freezes and then you just chip it off. Should be hittin the track on June 15.

gotta be careful doing this guys... If it gets too cold by introducing something as cold as nitrogen, then you may get "shrapnel" when you boost immediately after...

[overlordsshadow]

Thats funny because I was telling my mom about this and she was wondering if the metal would freeze and such. Told her not to worry about it. Not going to be using a lot of this stuff and I'll be watching the surface temp.

[88_pacifica]

true... it would take "extreme" temperature drops to make this a ppossibility, but stranger things have happened. Plus, what if they did it when it was winter? then you'd be f-ed. :D :thumb:

[overlordsshadow]

I love winter driving! driving around at -20 degrees celcius before you add in what the windchill factor must be on the intercooler and u just think, holy ---- another 30 hp

[1FastCSX289]

i don't know from experience, but i've heard that i/c sprayers are VERY effective. I have a TNT kit coming soon (trading for it) and I plan on setting up a purge through a pvc pipe or something with pin holes to spray through the i/c. when I sit in the staging lanes the i/c gets up to 150* which is no good. I know a dsm that was just about stock that ran an 8.0 in the 1/8 b/c they took a bottle and hit the i/c directly before she ran it. Also, nitrous is a very effective chemical intercooling medium. A 20 shot on a turbo car introduced in the right place will let you run higher boost, therefore netting more than the advertised 20hp. i plan on running a 50shot with the trigger set to come on in third. Think of it as meth injection that makes a bigger boom too...

Good luck, that kit will do well for you! It hits pretty well for a 50 shot. Cant wait for my wheels! :thumb:

[slasky]

i don't know from experience, but i've heard that i/c sprayers are VERY effective. I have a TNT kit coming soon (trading for it) and I plan on setting up a purge through a pvc pipe or something with pin holes to spray through the i/c.
I plan on doing the same when I get around to installing my kit.

[t3rse]

as with meth injection you should be monitoring intake temps anyways...

[zin]

In my experience, the best results come from a moderate amount of nitrous and a moderate amount of boost. Basically don't push too hard on either one and you'll get the best results. Also, using it to chill the intercooler works well, though not nearly as well as putting it through the engine. The best would be to do both, a spray bar on the cooler to take out the heat soak that you'll have from sitting in the lanes, and a moderate hit going into the engine. That'll get you maximum benefit of cooling of the air charge, lag elimination and a nice cool intercooler from the start. What could be better?!

Mike

[SebringLX]

In my experience, the best results come from a moderate amount of nitrous and a moderate amount of boost. Basically don't push too hard on either one and you'll get the best results. Also, using it to chill the intercooler works well, though not nearly as well as putting it through the engine. The best would be to do both, a spray bar on the cooler to take out the heat soak that you'll have from sitting in the lanes, and a moderate hit going into the engine. That'll get you maximum benefit of cooling of the air charge, lag elimination and a nice cool intercooler from the start. What could be better?!

Mike
That's kind of what I was thinking. I won't have a spray bar to spray the intercooler right away. For $500, I'm getting a full Zex 4 & 6 cyl kit with 25, 50, and 75 hp jets, an extra bottle, and the Zex machine gun purge kit with blue LED. That's everything this guy had, and I know the retail on everything was close to $1100. I've got to spend probably another $50 to run blow down tubes from the bottles so their NHRA track legal.

[zin]

That's kind of what I was thinking. I won't have a spray bar to spray the intercooler right away. For $500, I'm getting a full Zex 4 & 6 cyl kit with 25, 50, and 75 hp jets, an extra bottle, and the Zex machine gun purge kit with blue LED. That's everything this guy had, and I know the retail on everything was close to $1100. I've got to spend probably another $50 to run blow down tubes from the bottles so their NHRA track legal.

Hopefully the kit is the "wet" style as the dry kits can be tricky with turbos (though I like the way those kits work better). As for the Blow Down Tubes, you'll need to get a "Racer Safety" for each bottle so you can hook up the blow-down tube, or an 8an hose and bulkhead fitting, if you can't have the tube exit directly below the bottle. My best advice with regards to the system is to start small and work your way up, you'll notice that you make more than the rated HP due to the cooling, which is more dramatic on turbo/superchanged cars.

Mike

[SebringLX]

Hopefully the kit is the "wet" style as the dry kits can be tricky with turbos (though I like the way those kits work better). As for the Blow Down Tubes, you'll need to get a "Racer Safety" for each bottle so you can hook up the blow-down tube, or an 8an hose and bulkhead fitting, if you can't have the tube exit directly below the bottle. My best advice with regards to the system is to start small and work your way up, you'll notice that you make more than the rated HP due to the cooling, which is more dramatic on turbo/superchanged cars.

Mike
Yeah it's wet, although my fuel setup could easily handle dry. Forgot to mention, it uses their TPS switch... so when the system is armed, it only sprays at WOT. No window switch. For less than half the price of what it would have cost to get all this stuff brand new, I couldn't pass it up. I know this guy didn't have it on his car for very long either, and didn't use it much at all.

Since it is coming with 25, 50, and 75 shot jets, and it will be spraying the whole time it's at WOT... I think I will just put the 25 shot on and see how that works.

[overlordsshadow]

This is gettin me thinking about the Zex that is for sale here...... Mabye i'll get the alchy installed first hehe

[SebringLX]

This is gettin me thinking about the Zex that is for sale here...... Mabye i'll get the alchy installed first hehe
No meth for me... I wanted to do meth injection, but there isn't anywhere out here to buy it from. I don't want to use washer fluid, 'cause if I read the NHRA rules correctly, meth has to be 99 point something % pure when it's used. I'm pretty sure you can't get that out of washer fluid.

[overlordsshadow]

I'll mabye hit the track 2-3 times a year and plan on running massive amount of water/alchy in the summer too keep temps down even at low boost. Thats why I went progressive kit, so that I can get the benefit the whole time.