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SpoolinGLH
01-30-2006, 04:28 AM
Whats your guys suggestion on CrankCase Ventilation?? When do you need it? I just need updated alittle on this..Thanks

R/T
01-30-2006, 08:52 AM
Depends on the year, early motors with the fuel pump block off are easy to do; a 1/2" pipe nipple threaded into the plate, heater hose run up to a "T" and then connected to the PCV vent on the valve cover is an easy way to balance the windage.

Others I know use the later model 2 vent valve covers and curtain off a TBI car....

glhs875
01-30-2006, 09:17 AM
I run a hose from the valvecover with no pcv valve or vent, to the air cleaner tubing, and let the turbo pull some vacum through the hose. Works good for me.

Frank
01-30-2006, 09:26 AM
I just found this yesterday... Victor from the neon's forum has a website called http://www.neongoodies.com. He sells a catch can kit for $49.... I am probably going to do that instead of my untuned exhaust scavage setup.


Frank

SpoolinGLH
01-30-2006, 02:53 PM
Depends on the year, early motors with the fuel pump block off are easy to do; a 1/2" pipe nipple threaded into the plate, heater hose run up to a "T" and then connected to the PCV vent on the valve cover is an easy way to balance the windage.

Others I know use the later model 2 vent valve covers and curtain off a TBI car....


This motor is going to be a T2 Commonblock....

turbovanmanČ
01-30-2006, 03:51 PM
Numerous ways, all work. The stock setup is the worst I have ever seen, using one nipple to do all the work. I am running a catch can off the vent side as I seem to be blowing oil out of it. My old engine, I just ran the stock vacuum T, one side to the pcv and the other to a filter using the stock metal tube. My new engine now blows oil out of the filter-better ring seal?????? anyhow, I ran a catch can instead of the filter and now, it blows oil out of the dipstick tube.
I am going to run the catch can to the oil filler cap, and block off the stock vent at the T. You can also add another nipple to the valve cover similiar to the TBI valve cover.

R/T
01-30-2006, 10:08 PM
This motor is going to be a T2 Commonblock....

Then as I said, later model 2 nipple TBI cover an curtain.... :p

WOP'R
02-01-2006, 04:29 AM
I just found this yesterday... Victor from the neon's forum has a website called http://www.neongoodies.com. He sells a catch can kit for $49.... I am probably going to do that instead of my untuned exhaust scavage setup.


Frank


WOW thats alot of money for that!!

jeez i was selling a nice 3 inch all aluminium catch can with fittings, drain, tubing and filter for $50 (the filter cost quit a bit)

Tony Hanna
02-01-2006, 05:24 AM
I always just hooked the pcv valve straight to the nipple on the valvecover with a piece of hose and replaced the oil cap with a Spectre brand breather/cap from Autozone. It'll drool a little oil on the valvecover if you don't rinse the oil out of the filter every now and then, but otherwise seems to work great.

boost geek
02-04-2006, 02:53 AM
I just run a hose from the valve cover and dump it out the bottom. No pcv valve or pollution control of any sort. If I'm at the track I'll hang a plastic pop bottle on the hose. It's amazing what comes out when you blow a head gasket!

bobr19
02-04-2006, 09:24 AM
My new engine now blows oil out of the filter-better ring seal?????? anyhow, I ran a catch can instead of the filter and now, it blows oil out of the dipstick tube.

Price of gapless rings??? or are they not fully seated yet???? bobr19

86Shelby
02-04-2006, 09:51 PM
I'm planning on running an exhaust evac system like Russ Jerome did on his black GLHT. TIII's have a great spot for it to hook up to the block. The center oil drainback tube on the block isn't used for drainage from the head, no windage or straight oil consuption concerns. PCV goes to this port originially.

turbovanmanČ
02-06-2006, 12:43 AM
Price of gapless rings??? or are they not fully seated yet???? bobr19

Trust me, there seated, heheheheee, :lol:

I paid around $225 canadian but if you shop around, I think they can be had for around $150 US or less. I wanted the best of the best with this engine so thats why I used them.

WickedShelby88
02-10-2006, 02:27 AM
Ive just got the stock T2 setup on an 88 Lancer Shelby and she doesnt use any oil with 169k on it.. Stock cant be all that bad.. Thing is where can you get the rubber T that slides on the V/C nipple cause they like to crack as mine is almost there and the one on my daytona.. well we wont go there.. Is it okay just to run a breather off the nipple and then T into the stock PCV. I think that would look better and be much cleaner if done properly... I dont like things like catch cans on daily drivers.. Last time I got even a drop of oil anywhere near the exhaust mani on an SVO mustang I had it caught fire.. Luckily there was a hose right by the car... :confused: any suggestions?

burnfaster
02-10-2006, 11:43 PM
That rubber grommet is still available at your local dealer . I just got a couple for $5 ea.

TurboXT
02-10-2006, 11:55 PM
I run a hose from the valvecover with no pcv valve or vent, to the air cleaner tubing, and let the turbo pull some vacum through the hose. Works good for me.


yup. i just did that to my daytona the other day. works great. :bump2:

8valves
02-11-2006, 12:02 AM
yup. i just did that to my daytona the other day. works great. :bump2:

I'm sorry, I paid too much for my turbo to even think of letting engine oil splatter into compressor. I just couldn't do that. I won't run an open inlet with a screen anymore either, the compressor was extremely dirty after just a couple months f use.

Aaron Miller

turbovanmanČ
02-11-2006, 03:43 AM
I'm sorry, I paid too much for my turbo to even think of letting engine oil splatter into compressor. I just couldn't do that. I won't run an open inlet with a screen anymore either, the compressor was extremely dirty after just a couple months f use.

Aaron Miller


+1 infinity, :nod:

deuce dodge
02-13-2006, 07:08 PM
all i know is i have the "GUS" setup and its a hose towards the road with wire mesh........still lifts dipstick an inch or so...............better then pumping crap into turbo......:)


would love to find a better cheep fix.........

deuce

turbovanmanČ
02-13-2006, 10:45 PM
all i know is i have the "GUS" setup and its a hose towards the road with wire mesh........still lifts dipstick an inch or so...............better then pumping crap into turbo......:)


would love to find a better cheep fix.........

deuce

I just fixed mine, as suggested, get a vented oil filller cap, I got one from an 80's Ford pickup as the PCV valve goes into the oil cap. Get a HELP brand PCV elbow and insert where the pcv should go, put some hose on it and position where you want-I am going to run a small breather on it. I now have zero oil blowing out anywhere, yippee, :thumb:

SpoolinGLH
02-13-2006, 11:21 PM
I just fixed mine, as suggested, get a vented oil filller cap, I got one from an 80's Ford pickup as the PCV valve goes into the oil cap. Get a HELP brand PCV elbow and insert where the pcv should go, put some hose on it and position where you want-I am going to run a small breather on it. I now have zero oil blowing out anywhere, yippee, :thumb:


Do you have any detailed pics of the setup??:clap2:

turbovanmanČ
02-13-2006, 11:54 PM
Sure, give me a couple days, :thumb:

Ok, heres the pics but I redid it, will post those tomorrow-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics144.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics143.jpg

SpoolinGLH
02-19-2006, 03:49 AM
cool simon thanks for the pics

GLHS592
02-19-2006, 09:42 AM
Would it be a good idea to vent out of the distributor hole I now have plugged off? Anybody got any pics of how to do an exhaust evacuation? Summitt sells a kit, right?

contraption22
02-19-2006, 10:46 AM
I'm sorry, I paid too much for my turbo to even think of letting engine oil splatter into compressor. I just couldn't do that. I won't run an open inlet with a screen anymore either, the compressor was extremely dirty after just a couple months f use.

Aaron Miller


I got a 3" nitrile bend from turbonetics and cut about an inch off one of the legs and slipped it over my compressor cover. Fits in my horizon no problem. Althou im betting on hard acceleration it might contact the brake booster, but it's soft rubber and im not concerned about that.

SpoolinGLH
02-19-2006, 02:00 PM
yeh i would like to see some pics of the exhaust evac....thats probaly how ill do it..

turbovanmanČ
02-19-2006, 04:13 PM
Would it be a good idea to vent out of the distributor hole I now have plugged off? Anybody got any pics of how to do an exhaust evacuation? Summitt sells a kit, right?


I would say yes if you baffle the hole first, theres alot of oil spray in that area and I bet it would shoot oil up the hose you install there.

turbovanmanČ
02-19-2006, 11:39 PM
Ok, heres the latest and greatest reincarnation. I can post part numbers if you want. Note the catch can has a little filter now instead of running 3 feet of hose down the back with a big K@N filter.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics179.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics178.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Canoncamerapics177.jpg

johnl
02-20-2006, 01:44 AM
I like the idea of the one way/check valve in the downstream of the cat (CA here) that uses the Bernoulli (spelling?) effect to create a vacuum to suck all blow by out of the crankcase.

I understand, however, that you can have too much crankcase vacuum. True? If so, why, what's the right amount, and then how do you regulate it?

Next, what about sucking dirt into the crankcase? I mean K&Ns' breathers are great and all but maybe the minimalist approach of just venting as much blow by as gets by the pistons is best, as opposed to introducing new volumes of air and another source of engine contamination via a vacuum system?

turbovanmanČ
02-20-2006, 03:47 AM
I like the idea of the one way/check valve in the downstream of the cat (CA here) that uses the Bernoulli (spelling?) effect to create a vacuum to suck all blow by out of the crankcase.

I understand, however, that you can have too much crankcase vacuum. True? If so, why, what's the right amount, and then how do you regulate it?

Next, what about sucking dirt into the crankcase? I mean K&Ns' breathers are great and all but maybe the minimalist approach of just venting as much blow by as gets by the pistons is best, as opposed to introducing new volumes of air and another source of engine contamination via a vacuum system?

I don't like the first idea as you can fill up your exhaust with oil and if you ran a cat-you will kill it. Great idea for a race car though.

There is no such thing as too much vacuum inside the engine-thats why they make systems with vacuum pumps.

The filters are a great idea, its basically the same as running the breather system at the air filter box or pipe. I can actually pull 5 inchs of vacuum at either filter if I block one off at idle and holding the rpm steady, :eek:

johnl
02-20-2006, 12:14 PM
I don't like the first idea as you can fill up your exhaust with oil and if you ran a cat-you will kill it. Great idea for a race car though.

There is no such thing as too much vacuum inside the engine-thats why they make systems with vacuum pumps.

The filters are a great idea, its basically the same as running the breather system at the air filter box or pipe. I can actually pull 5 inchs of vacuum at either filter if I block one off at idle and holding the rpm steady, :eek:


Simon -
Now we got it going! Finally, we disagree on something. Fun, huh?

First, put the gulp valve AFTER the CAT.

Second, do I care if there is oil (some, not too much) in the exhaust pipe? Anyway, use a catch can between the gulp valve and the VC/block to keep the oil out of the exhaust. Third, use large diameter hose to reduce the VELOCITY of the evacuated crankcase air so that the gulp valve CAN'T suck oil.

As I say, filters are fine; it's just that they are not perfect and a crankcase INTAKE vent IS a source of possible contaminant intrustion into an otherwise well sealed system - the crankcase.

Next, the PVC system pulls a vacuum at idle anyway. Who cares, in a tight engine there is NO BLOWBY AT IDLE! The problem is blow by at boost. At boost the PVC system has to be shut down or else the turbo would pressurize the crankcase. The OEMs had to have compromised; they must have figured that blow by on boost would get evacuated by the PVC system in a moment or minute or two, when the engine speed again drops to idle.

We want better than that - get that blowby pollution out of my crankcase now, under boost, and at steady state modest boost, and before it condenses into my Mobil 1!

Next, suppose we put 1000 pounds of vacuum on the crankcase. Would we have too much blow by under boost? Yes. So, there is, theoretically, a point where too much crankcase vacuum is too much. And that problem is presented to us when we put a gulp valve on an exhaust pipe that is flowing max RPM volumes of spent exhaust gas.

Suppose a gulp valve can create 100 pounds a vacuum. Is that too much? I mean that is 100 pounds less sealing pressure on the bottom sides of the rings, isn't it?

So, do we have to, and if so, how, do you regulate the vacuum that can be created with the use of a gulp valve?

wallace
02-20-2006, 12:52 PM
Moroso sells an adjustable valve that you can weld to your valve cover to set the maximum vacuum you will get in your crankcase. The dyno charts I have seen using a vacuum pump show 14" to be a good target. You also need to remember that the oil pump (wet sump system) is working harder under a vacuum to pull in oil on the inlet side. Have you measured the vacuum under max load in the crankcase with your evac setup to see how much you're getting?

johnl
02-20-2006, 02:33 PM
Moroso sells an adjustable valve that you can weld to your valve cover to set the maximum vacuum you will get in your crankcase. The dyno charts I have seen using a vacuum pump show 14" to be a good target. You also need to remember that the oil pump (wet sump system) is working harder under a vacuum to pull in oil on the inlet side. Have you measured the vacuum under max load in the crankcase with your evac setup to see how much you're getting?

Hot diggity. Thanks Wallace. All the answers in three sentences! As for your question, me measuring? I just talk. Not yet; just thinking about the install. Got the gulp valve. I'll try to find that Moroso valve and see if I can work it into a take off from my non-CB fuel pump block off plate.

johnl
02-20-2006, 02:55 PM
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=13311

Hope that link works.

If it doesn't search for it there. They call it "Billet Aluminum Vacuum Relief Valve" Depending on the diameter, looks like you could put a little K&N filter right over it.

LeGweg
02-20-2006, 07:48 PM
Anybody got any pics of how to do an exhaust evacuation? Summitt sells a kit, right?

Here; http://community-2.webtv.net/PAGEBUILDERPICS/CRANKCASEEVACUATION/

Basically, I have the same setup, except that I run the cast aluminum TBI valve cover and run the heater hose from the check valve directly to one of the 2 TBI valve cover nipples, and a breather on the other one;

http://perso.b2b2c.ca/legweg/Photos/tbi_vc02.jpg

Moroso and Mr.Gasket both have kits, and probably Summit too. Here's the Moroso kit;

http://www.martelbrothers.com/product_image.php?imageid=99919

Remember one kit will do 2 TD's (kits are made for V8's) You can buy the parts separately. I didn't need the extra parts + I didn't need the breather so I only ordered the weld-in nipple and check valve along with some 5/8 heater hose.

SpoolinGLH
02-20-2006, 08:00 PM
that is exactly how im doing it ^^^^^^!

Russ Jerome
02-20-2006, 08:07 PM
Would it be a good idea to vent out of the distributor hole I now have plugged off? Anybody got any pics of how to do an exhaust evacuation? Summitt sells a kit, right?

Dont vent off there, pull vac off the dist hole. The blowby starts
below rings get it early to better seal pistons.

http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/images/16vdownpipe1.jpg

Tom Mazur's 16v Shadow didnt need the dist hole, we drilled
hole in old dist base and plumbed with 5/8" barb fitting for
his evac sytem. Use a breather up top to allow fresh air to
be "pulled" down to pan thru vent in head. You still need
good vent in system, there will be transitional times when
EVAC or PVC system is static.

Russ Jerome
02-20-2006, 08:09 PM
Free check valves available on any Chevy/Ford pickup truck
with AIR injection at manifolds. Personel preference is Ford
for there large posotively closeing valves (easier to remove
as the Chevy's rust pretty good).

GLHS592
02-20-2006, 08:29 PM
Dont vent off there, pull vac off the dist hole. The blowby starts
below rings get it early to better seal pistons.

http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/images/16vdownpipe1.jpg

Tom Mazur's 16v Shadow didnt need the dist hole, we drilled
hole in old dist base and plumbed with 5/8" barb fitting for
his evac sytem. Use a breather up top to allow fresh air to
be "pulled" down to pan thru vent in head. You still need
good vent in system, there will be transitional times when
EVAC or PVC system is static.

So, as long as I have some type of vent filter on my valve cover, I'll be ok running a hose from my distributor hole to my exhaust? Also, how far back in the downpipe can I weld in that nipple with the check valve? I don't want it to interfere with my wideband O2 sensor.

Russ Jerome
02-20-2006, 09:36 PM
So, as long as I have some type of vent filter on my valve cover, I'll be ok running a hose from my distributor hole to my exhaust? Also, how far back in the downpipe can I weld in that nipple with the check valve? I don't want it to interfere with my wideband O2 sensor.

Distributor hole will be perfect, ideal location.
Vented breather in VC will let vaccuum in
block scavenge before vac is lost up top
thru head's factory vent.

Closer up the better, downline of O2 sensor.

The more the angle it seams like the better it
pull's, the slash cut should be even with angle
in that it has 100% coverage in pipe. I weld
mine 1/8-3/8" inside the pipe, pulls hard enough
you can feel it at idle and nearly squish's silicone
hose when revving motor. Decelling after a 12 second
full pull burp's a puff of smoke out tailpipe at end of
track (doing its job pefectly!).

If you overengineer it and it pulls tooo hard, like raw
clean oil puddles at tailpipe or thru exhaust cutout
simply restrict ID of suction hose, I used a simple
gated water valve to try different openings until
it sucks the bad boosted oil pan fumes out but left
motor oil in bottom of pan.

Tony Fields
02-20-2006, 09:42 PM
Ive just got the stock T2 setup on an 88 Lancer Shelby and she doesnt use any oil with 169k on it.. Stock cant be all that bad.. Thing is where can you get the rubber T that slides on the V/C nipple cause they like to crack as mine is almost there and the one on my daytona.. well we wont go there.. Is it okay just to run a breather off the nipple and then T into the stock PCV. I think that would look better and be much cleaner if done properly... I dont like things like catch cans on daily drivers.. Last time I got even a drop of oil anywhere near the exhaust mani on an SVO mustang I had it caught fire.. Luckily there was a hose right by the car... :confused: any suggestions?

Part number for the rubber "T" is 4387568

Last time I bought was Oct, 2003 I bought a couple for $6.76 ea. net. List
is $11.96 each

SpoolinGLH
02-20-2006, 10:58 PM
Distributor hole will be perfect, ideal location.
Vented breather in VC will let vaccuum in
block scavenge before vac is lost up top
thru head's factory vent.

Closer up the better, downline of O2 sensor.

The more the angle it seams like the better it
pull's, the slash cut should be even with angle
in that it has 100% coverage in pipe. I weld
mine 1/8-3/8" inside the pipe, pulls hard enough
you can feel it at idle and nearly squish's silicone
hose when revving motor. Decelling after a 12 second
full pull burp's a puff of smoke out tailpipe at end of
track (doing its job pefectly!).

If you overengineer it and it pulls tooo hard, like raw
clean oil puddles at tailpipe or thru exhaust cutout
simply restrict ID of suction hose, I used a simple
gated water valve to try different openings until
it sucks the bad boosted oil pan fumes out but left
motor oil in bottom of pan.

Using the valve cover to the checkvalve in the downpipe should still do better then whats on there from factory... right??

ghostrider
02-21-2006, 12:17 AM
I just found this yesterday... Victor from the neon's forum has a website called http://www.neongoodies.com. He sells a catch can kit for $49.... I am probably going to do that instead of my untuned exhaust scavage setup.


Frank

Checked out the site for this and regardless of the cost, i like it's simplicity. Now for my take.....here's a couple of pic's that should interest some as i found on a dsm site called dejonpowerhouse.com A friend from work turned me on to it and it seems to be the simplest of all. Will it work for us.....don't know. You tell me....O.K i just realized i can't post pic's :confused: don't know why!! Someone tell me why?? Anyway, if you want to check out the cool items i just mentioned, go to the site and click on the "DSM" block, then scroll down to the "BOV-misc-tools" section on the left of the page and it'll load up with pic's and explainations. Please LMK what you all think about this as it's cost is as much as the neongoodies cost, but a hell of alot simpler!!

Russ Jerome
02-21-2006, 12:18 AM
Using the valve cover to the checkvalve in the downpipe should still do better then whats on there from factory... right??

By leaps and bounds! You stock PVC valve* closes under boost and
thats when blowby is at it's peak. Plumbing it to the VC will still
aid in pulling pressure from block thru vent in head.

*Only Mopar PVC's close 100% of the plastic unit's, Toyota
metal ones as well. If your PVC valve is not closing 100% you
are adding to pressure in VC under boost. For whatever reason
most manufactures let the PVC valve bleed just a bit.

turbo Scamp
06-08-2006, 12:48 AM
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=13311

Hope that link works.

If it doesn't search for it there. They call it "Billet Aluminum Vacuum Relief Valve" Depending on the diameter, looks like you could put a little K&N filter right over it.

I know this is an old thread, but... I am new here.

I found this - http://www.gzmotorsports.com/vacuum-control.html

Scroll down to PN - VCV104. It's a grainger valve! Got me thinking about just using a grainger to regulate the amount of vacuum my Moroso evac. system pulls. Plumb it between the valve cover nipple and the Moroso check valve. Alot cheaper than that Moroso relief valve.

Now if I can just get that evac. kit to actually pull some vacuum... I can regulate it.

- Bill

3Bar_Mopar
06-08-2006, 08:13 PM
I use a PCV valve on the VC with the other end directly to the manifold. I had oil and pressure popping out my disptick, so I bought a Mr. Gasket breather oil cap for $4.95. I have no oil leakage or dipstick poppage. I've had it for over a month and the only thing that sux is that when the breather element in the cap gets full of oil it leaks out onto the valve cover.
My system is like this:

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3959/dsc000872ys.jpg

ssheen
06-08-2006, 11:56 PM
Really like that valve cover! :D

3Bar_Mopar
06-09-2006, 12:47 AM
Really like that valve cover! :D


Thanks! Painted it myself! Engine Enamel is some good stuff.:amen:

puppet
06-09-2006, 10:11 AM
3Bar ... you need one of those caps that vents out the top.

DodgeZ
06-09-2006, 10:56 AM
http://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108

David Bohrer
06-09-2006, 01:05 PM
16" inches is optimum and 18" is the maximum I recommend. I have seen deminishing results over 16" and power loss and oil consuption in the exhaust when going over 18". Granted this was back in my A-Altered rail days in High School but, that is what I recall seeing on the engine dyno.

Awhile back I saw some tests posted on TurboMustangs.com and I think on TurboBuicks. They were roughly in line with my experience.

On a side note: Use a catch catch AFTER the head and BEFORE the check valve on the exhaust nipple. I add a divider and some steel wool to slow down the gases and to promote condensation. i recommend the Greddy style catch can. It allows the above to be done very easily!:D

3Bar_Mopar
06-09-2006, 06:21 PM
3Bar ... you need one of those caps that vents out the top.

The one I have vents out the sides on the bottom of the "mushroom cap" part of the cap. There are little vents all along the edge.

Turbo_Rampage
06-09-2006, 08:17 PM
I am converting my Rampage to T2, and i am wondering how to run my PVC/breather setup now that i will not have a constant vacuum source with the blow though setup (T1 suck through right now, so it allways has vacuum at the TB) Could i run this.. (scroll down to the 2nd one on this link) http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=13400 where my breather goes? and will it catch all the oil? Has anybody ran one of these and if so how does it work?

Thanks, Randy

puppet
06-09-2006, 08:36 PM
the only thing that sux is that when the breather element in the cap gets full of oil it leaks out onto the valve cover.
Side vents do that.

3Bar_Mopar
06-09-2006, 11:21 PM
Side vents do that.

Ahhh, I gotcha...I'll look into one that vent from the top......thanks for the tip.

LynX853
06-10-2006, 07:47 AM
i was just gonna do the valve cover mod (its actually a TSB too believe it or not) where you have to pull the VC and re-do the RTV, I believe theres a link on thedodgegarage about it with pics and such. doing that will make it not pull as much oil.

on top of that I decided on running mine to a nipple on my CAI pipe, with an inline glass fuel filter so i can see when or if its pulling oil through. I know the filters arnt made for oil, but gas... but they should still give me an Idea and let me see whats going on. plus the oil that comes out of there is SO minimal in the first place, that if any does make it down to my turbo, gets pressurized, turns into a vapor, goes through my piping, intercooler and eventually into my throttle body SO BE IT! is so minimal anyways it DOSNT matter.

and if your having quarts go through yours and are complaining about getting the inside of your turbo dirty, go to the sourse and find out why so much oil is in there, and maybe service your valve cover to try and see if that fixes it. when my car was bone stock with airbox and all... and the pcv was run to the filter, there was barely any oil on the filter from it, and that was after a year.

just my .02

puppet
06-10-2006, 07:59 AM
I wouldn't use a fuel filter. In about two-three weeks you'll be wondering why your dipstick is popping up. The media is just too fine for this app.

I made a half/assed CC and used a SS wad in the top of it. Works better than the filter.

DodgeZ
06-10-2006, 09:11 AM
You can vent it this way.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2086000-2086999/2086441_28.jpg

LynX853
06-10-2006, 02:38 PM
You can vent it this way.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2086000-2086999/2086441_28.jpg


:lol: holy crap!

ok, no fuel filter

Tony Hanna
06-10-2006, 11:13 PM
I use a PCV valve on the VC with the other end directly to the manifold. I had oil and pressure popping out my disptick, so I bought a Mr. Gasket breather oil cap for $4.95. I have no oil leakage or dipstick poppage. I've had it for over a month and the only thing that sux is that when the breather element in the cap gets full of oil it leaks out onto the valve cover.
My system is like this:

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3959/dsc000872ys.jpg

I've used that exact same setup on 2 cars so far with no problem except the filter saturation. When I get ready to redo the pcv system on the Sundance, I'm going to do it the same way, but instead of using a breather cap that's vented underneath, I'm going to try to find an oil cap with a nipple on it so I can run a section of hose from the cap to a vented catch can.

Tony Hanna
06-11-2006, 12:17 AM
Did a little digging on ebay. Here's a pic of the oil cap and catch can I was talking about. That catch can is a bit expensive, but either Summit or Jegs was selling the same style can made of plastic for a reasonable price.

WVRampage
06-11-2006, 01:15 AM
You can vent it this way.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2086000-2086999/2086441_28.jpg

Does that help keep the engine cool with all that airflow.:lol:

turbovanmanČ
06-12-2006, 04:55 PM
I've used that exact same setup on 2 cars so far with no problem except the filter saturation. When I get ready to redo the pcv system on the Sundance, I'm going to do it the same way, but instead of using a breather cap that's vented underneath, I'm going to try to find an oil cap with a nipple on it so I can run a section of hose from the cap to a vented catch can.

See my earlier post Tony on the oil filler cap, :thumb:

Tony Hanna
06-12-2006, 11:22 PM
See my earlier post Tony on the oil filler cap, :thumb:
I managed to miss that somehow. That's a nice looking setup Simon, but it looks like it may be a bit tall on a car. I wonder about interference with the hood.:confused:
I think the cap in the picture I posted would work perfect since I'm not planning to run a filter at the cap, just a hose straight to a catch can with the filter on the can. My only issue is that I want to run large (heater hose size) hose to the catch can and a filter on the other side of the can with at least that big of an inlet. The way I see it, that blowby has to go somewhere, and if the hose/catch can/filter setup is restrictive in the least, it's going to find the next easiest place to escape like the dipstick tube.
I've got an idea for a free catch can that I'm going to try. I'm going to cut open an old GM ac reciever/dryer and clean the diseccant out of it. Then I'm going to weld it back together, tap the bottom for a drain plug or valve and attach the hose from the oil cap at one end and the filter at the other. If it works out, it would even polish up nice should I ever decide to care how my engine compartment looks.:thumb:

glhs875
06-13-2006, 07:11 AM
Here's a couple of shots of my catch can setup I made from a freon can. It uses a 5/8" heater hose to the valve cover nipple. Iam going to add a drain----, and a second nipple to the can later for an exhaust evacuation. Works great now.

WVRampage
06-16-2006, 12:01 AM
I used a vented cap and then resealed the baffle in the valve cover,made a can out of a peice of scrap exhaust pipe then but a drain in the botom and 2 nipples in the top one going to the VC and the other going to the inlet pipe to the turbo. works great and cheap.

Anonymous_User
10-15-2006, 03:44 PM
I'm running a non-common block currently. Would I be best runnin from the valve cover nipple down to the fuel pump block off plate and running a vented oil filler cap? The from the oil filler cap to a catch can?

The stock PCV system is sucking oil through the PCV valve during cruising.

Turbo3Iroc
10-29-2006, 09:02 PM
Here is a pic of my former (stock with open element) and current PCV system. I had the first one on the car until I started running higher boost and was getting a little oil on the valve cover. Now with higher boost and quite a few passes on the car oil is pushing out at the split where the pcv valve is and out of the catch can filter. Should I run the open port of the can to the intake stream (pre turbo)? Or should I eliminate the factory oil seperator and run the pcv valve off of the catch can and to the intake manifold? Suggestions?

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/5041/dsc01327jx6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4858/dsc01415xv1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Dave
10-30-2006, 09:33 AM
Turbo3IROC - yes, run the open port to the intake. The little filter on top, :rolleyes: God, I don't know why people do that, you need vaccum for the PCV to work. Anyways it wont work. You need to run a line from the valve covers to the catch can. From the catch can to a T, off one line place the PCV valve there and then route it to the intake manifold, off the other line of the T, go to the intake pipe.

tryingbe
10-30-2006, 10:05 AM
I don't even use a PCV valve anymore.

Mine goes from valve cover to catch can and catch can to intake box.

Anybody know where I can get some BLACK 5/8 silicone hose? All napa had is green and it look shitty with rust of my engine stuff. :(

Dave
10-30-2006, 12:12 PM
I don't even use a PCV valve anymore.

Mine goes from valve cover to catch can and catch can to intake box.

Anybody know where I can get some BLACK 5/8 silicone hose? All napa had is green and it look shitty with rust of my engine stuff. :(

NAPA should've had it. :confused: Try Summit or Jegs, I suppose. BTW that's another good way to do it, by eliminating the PCV valve. Did you just cork the elbow off the intake?

tryingbe
10-30-2006, 08:54 PM
Not pretty, but it works.

http://www.hardcars.com/headerman/dodge/turbo/pcv1.jpg

http://www.hardcars.com/headerman/dodge/turbo/pcv2.jpg

Turbo3Iroc
10-31-2006, 02:03 AM
I got most of it fabbed up but ran out of time before I had to get to work. The catch can is now under the upper cooler pipe and on top of the trans. I found a 90* 5/8 to 3/8 connector at Advance auto to come right off the nipple on the block. I'll post a pic when it's done.

The mini filter in front of the valve cover worked fine until I went past 14 psi.

tryingbe, the local Advance auto has some pcv hose in black, it comes in like a 2 foot length. I had it going to the stock oil seperator for a atleast a year and it's held up great, it's much better than the stock Mopar piece from the dealer.

Ondonti
10-31-2006, 03:01 AM
I only have 20" or so of downpipe after the o2 sensor.......No exhaust after that. Would I even be able to get any use out of exhaust evacuation?
Im thinking it would do nothing unless I was moving a LOT of exhaust out of the downpipe. (meaning it would be worthless unless I was under boost making power)

Would it be better to just run a line to an intake after a catch can? I really dont want to get any oil into the turbo or IC or IC piping.

With 4" inlet on turbo and 12" long 5-6" diameter filter Is there going to be a lot of vacuum draw? I would think if the filter was more restrictive then I would pull greater vacuum.

I cant see either way actually drawing a real vacuum in the crankcase.....but getting the pressure as low as possible will still help.

Im guessing being hooked to the intake is the only way to pull any vapors when not in boost but could I get a better draw on with the exhaust when under boost?

tryingbe
10-31-2006, 10:23 AM
Just follow my routing then. It'll have vaccum all the time.

Ondonti
11-01-2006, 09:24 PM
Just follow my routing then. It'll have vaccum all the time.

I dont have an intake box....you would only have vacuum if your filter was restrictive.
doesnt hep me.

Dave
11-02-2006, 11:07 AM
I only have 20" or so of downpipe after the o2 sensor.......No exhaust after that. Would I even be able to get any use out of exhaust evacuation?
Im thinking it would do nothing unless I was moving a LOT of exhaust out of the downpipe. (meaning it would be worthless unless I was under boost making power)

Would it be better to just run a line to an intake after a catch can? I really dont want to get any oil into the turbo or IC or IC piping.

With 4" inlet on turbo and 12" long 5-6" diameter filter Is there going to be a lot of vacuum draw? I would think if the filter was more restrictive then I would pull greater vacuum.

I cant see either way actually drawing a real vacuum in the crankcase.....but getting the pressure as low as possible will still help.

Im guessing being hooked to the intake is the only way to pull any vapors when not in boost but could I get a better draw on with the exhaust when under boost?

Brent, hook it to the intake. It's never failed me. I saw some oil buildup past the intake bung and a little sitting on the turbo's inlet. But I took the lower i/c hose off right past the turbo and it's dry as hell.

I'm not sure if I consumed a lot of oil b/c of all the blow by through the rings, or if it was how I had the system hooked up. 20psi seemed to suck everything dry. ;)

Ondonti
11-02-2006, 11:17 PM
well I can see this working if you do a slashcut but if you dont then you dont have any vacuum with a big filter.

Omniboy
02-13-2008, 10:52 AM
Dont vent off there, pull vac off the dist hole. The blowby starts
below rings get it early to better seal pistons.

http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/images/16vdownpipe1.jpg

Tom Mazur's 16v Shadow didnt need the dist hole, we drilled
hole in old dist base and plumbed with 5/8" barb fitting for
his evac sytem. Use a breather up top to allow fresh air to
be "pulled" down to pan thru vent in head. You still need
good vent in system, there will be transitional times when
EVAC or PVC system is static.

I think this method should have write up in turbo mopar knowledge section. As we all know the factory pcv sucks a$$. This method seems to be the best way to keep vacuum on the crankcase under boost. I'm getting ready to do my setup like this and I will take some good pictures of the process. I will be using this check valve off of a mid 80's ford from autozone
http://www.autozone.com/images/products/gps/gps779-2941003.jpg

Reaper1
02-17-2008, 05:17 AM
Has anybody mucked around with using an actual pump to create the vacume? Specifically I've been told that mid '90's Northstar V8's have an emissions pump on them under the intake next to the starter that can be used for the purpose of drawing a vacume on the engine without destroying the pump. The only thing is I'm having one HELL of a time finding one! I can get a rebuilt one for $210 or so, but #1 that's expensive, and #2 I don't get the neesed electrical connector.

As for too much vaume...yes, this is possible, when it pulls so much the engine makes a "squealing noise" from the air being pulled THROUGH the oil seals!! LOL Heard it happen on a friend's race car once!

Omniboy
02-17-2008, 11:11 AM
They make a adjustable vacuum relief valve that you can install that will limit the amount of vacuum on the crankcase. So yes a pump and a relief valve would be sweet. How big is that northstar pump? I just didn't want some big ugly pump taking up room under the hood.

Reaper1
02-17-2008, 05:38 PM
I want to say about 2.5-3" in diameter...probably around 4" long...remember it has to fit in the valley of an engine...between the cylinder banks...and the starter is down in there too..so I bet it can't be THAT big...