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Tony Hanna
05-08-2007, 09:35 PM
The previous owner of my Spirit replaced the TIII radiator with a TI unit and now the IC is inside the engine bay behind the radiator just hanging in the hot air by the hoses.:mad:

So now I'm exploring options. I'm assuming that buying a new TIII rad is out of the question, so I decided to look in the aftermarket. Unfortunately everything I've found so far has been at least 2" too tall. I'm going to run to the 24 hour parts store (Advance) later and have them pull a fox body Mustang radiator which looks (on paper) like it might do the trick.
If that falls through, anybody have any other suggestions? Could something more common like a TII Daytona radiator be made to work? Also, would somebody care to measure their TIII radiator and post the numbers for me? I'm looking for overall height to the highest point (filler neck?) and overall width including mounts, etc. I've found a couple places on the internet that claim to manufacture custom radiators. I may email them with the demensions and check pricing.
Thanks In Advance,
Tony

moparmaster
05-08-2007, 10:33 PM
I'm in the same boat and with my Iroc R/t and was thinking of using the TI radiator with a Cummins IC front mounted. Why not simply move the IC to the front? At least the TI radiator looks like it will accept the A/C condenser. I doubt aftermarket ones would.
I have a spare TIII radiator that is in very rough shape (would not trust it) and can measure it this weekend for you. I wish I could get that thing recored but I would prefer a brand new TI radiator since these old ones seem to crack where the brass bends around the plastic end tanks. What''ss the point in a recore (if even possible), when the joint where the two materials mate will fail?

contraption22
05-08-2007, 10:43 PM
I agree... use the T1 radiator and put in an effective front mount intercooler.

Tony Hanna
05-09-2007, 01:21 AM
Thanks for the suggestions. After the nightmare that was plumbing a front mount and keeping the AC on the Sundance, I think I'll stick with a side mount IC and a small radiator. I'm working out the details on mounting a bigger (Supercoupe) IC in the stock location though. It looks almost exactly like the stocker, but larger. I just need to rework the end tanks to get the inlet and outlet pointed in the right directions. If it turns out the way I'd like, it will look stock at a glance, but should flow a bit better.:)

Whorse
05-09-2007, 01:50 AM
I wouldn't recommend it, but I used a T1 rad AND the stock cooler in my lebaron, which has a similar front engine bay layout. I had to do a bit of cutting to make it fit, which is why I wouldn't do it, but it did work and both see lots of cold air (I've since moved to a Porsche FMIC). Some of the old Omni rads I've seen while dealing with my Omnis look like they might fit. It sounds like you are in a bit of a rush, but if you are not, someone I work with USED to work for a radiator factory, and told me a lot of people had custom radiators made for under 250cdn. Yes, that's cheaper than buying a new omni rad.

Tony Hanna
05-09-2007, 04:06 AM
Thanks Jason!
I was kicking around the idea of moving the TI radiator to the passenger side enough to properly mount the intercooler, but I'm not sure how that will work out with the AC. everything from the firewall forward for the ac was removed by the previous owner, so until I can at least find a condensor and bolt it in, I won't know how much room I'll have. I tried one of the small 2 pass Omni radiators in my old Daytona, and it didn't seem able to keep up. It was fine off-boost, but you could watch the temperature climb when pulling a hill, or accelerating for any length of time. I may look into the custom radiator idea if all else fails, but I'd really like to find an off-the-shelf solution that would work so that what I do is easily repeatable for a reasonable price. Since the TII and TIII radiators aren't available new and with increasing age, are becoming harder to find in decent condition used, it seems to me that finding a radiator from another make/model car that will work with minor modification would be a very good thing.:)

Whorse
05-09-2007, 07:56 AM
I had to remove AC to do it. You could make it work if you did one cut and had your lines extended (this is in a VNT lebaron, so same IC).

BIGBRUDDA
05-09-2007, 08:15 AM
Autozone shows a Transpro radiator #433883 for $86. 91 Dodge Spirit 2.2 turbo "special H.O."!! :eyebrows: And , it would be CLEAN.:D

mech1nxh
05-09-2007, 08:32 AM
http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?year=1991&make=DG&model=SPIR-RT-001&part=Radiator&dp=true


#RR433883 Radiator Aftermarket $107.95

Vehicle:
1991 – 1992 Dodge Spirit

Fits Engine – Chassis:
2.2L, 4 Cylinder, Gas, FI, Turbo, VIN ''A'' — R/T

Description:
READY RAD RADIATOR -- Direct Fit, Manufacturer's Limited Lifetime Warranty, Ground Shipping Only

Got Questions? 24 Hour Live Help Live Help Free Shipping On Orders Over $50.00



granted, this is "net" shopping.....and more expensive than above^ post
but it seems the rad is still available....

JDAWG
05-09-2007, 10:56 AM
someone find one for a 90 vnt Daytona and I will be very happy

Turbo3Iroc
05-09-2007, 11:37 AM
I've never seen an aftermarket rad that fit. Usually it's just a T1 rad and they say it's supposed to fit. But this one seems like it's listed better. I'd still try to get the core dimensions from them before buying.



http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?year=1991&make=DG&model=SPIR-RT-001&part=Radiator&dp=true


#RR433883 Radiator Aftermarket $107.95

Vehicle:
1991 – 1992 Dodge Spirit

Fits Engine – Chassis:
2.2L, 4 Cylinder, Gas, FI, Turbo, VIN ''A'' — R/T

Description:
READY RAD RADIATOR -- Direct Fit, Manufacturer's Limited Lifetime Warranty, Ground Shipping Only

Got Questions? 24 Hour Live Help Live Help Free Shipping On Orders Over $50.00



granted, this is "net" shopping.....and more expensive than above^ post
but it seems the rad is still available....

slasky
05-09-2007, 11:39 AM
I had a stock l body rad shortened and had a thicker core put in. You should be able to do the same with a non t3 rad for your car.

Tony Hanna
05-09-2007, 01:38 PM
Autozone shows a Transpro radiator #433883 for $86. 91 Dodge Spirit 2.2 turbo "special H.O."!! :eyebrows: And , it would be CLEAN.:D


http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?year=1991&make=DG&model=SPIR-RT-001&part=Radiator&dp=true


#RR433883 Radiator Aftermarket $107.95

Vehicle:
1991 – 1992 Dodge Spirit

Fits Engine – Chassis:
2.2L, 4 Cylinder, Gas, FI, Turbo, VIN ''A'' — R/T

Description:
READY RAD RADIATOR -- Direct Fit, Manufacturer's Limited Lifetime Warranty, Ground Shipping Only

Got Questions? 24 Hour Live Help Live Help Free Shipping On Orders Over $50.00



granted, this is "net" shopping.....and more expensive than above^ post
but it seems the rad is still available....

I found that radiator on the transpro (ready-rad) website with the core demensions listed last night. The problem is that the core length is the same as the radiator they list for the TI and V6 cars, so it's obviously not the right one. I wonder if they even know?:confused:
If you want to check it out, here's the link: http://webbase.transpro.com/radcat/

After thinking some more about Jason's suggestion on the l-body radiator, I remembered that the wimpy one I tried originally was from a na car. I looked up one for a Shelby Charger, and it looks promising. http://webbase.transpro.com/catalog.php?partnum=433867
If anything, it looks like it might be just a little too long, but not long enough to keep it from working.:thumb: I think I'll order one of those and give it a try.
Thanks for all the help everybody!
Tony

Tony Hanna
05-09-2007, 06:01 PM
Now that I've got some new batteries for the camera, I can post before and after pics.:)
Here it is before with the full length radiator. Intercooler doesn't look like it's in the best spot to get cool air does it?
The SC radiator should be in tomorrrow morning and hopefully by tomorrow evening I'll have pics and details on if/how well it fits and what all is involved in making it work. Honestly I can't see it being anymore than having to drill a couple holes for the top mounts and maybe having to relocate one or both of the lower holes for the "feet" on the bottom of the rad.

moparmaster
05-09-2007, 10:29 PM
What do they replace in a recore? Does it replace the brass mating pieces that connect to the plastic end tanks? My spare TIII rad is cracked on the junction between the core and the end tanks. Radiator shop said it's not repairable. I don't see how it cannot be replaced when the end tanks are fine. Any suggestions?

Blue Iroc R/T
05-10-2007, 12:09 PM
Rick Diogo has NEW TIII Radiators in stock; www.RDIPerformance.com
Not sure of the price.

86Shelby
05-10-2007, 12:23 PM
It's terribly difficult to replace the core when there are plastic end tanks. The end tanks usually break when taking the core off them.

Tony Hanna
05-10-2007, 12:48 PM
Rick Diogo has NEW TIII Radiators in stock; www.RDIPerformance.com
Not sure of the price.

Just sent him an email. Thanks!
Advance ordered the SC radiator so that I could measure it to see if it will work. If something works out with Rick having one, I'll have them send the SC rad back.:)

Tony Hanna
05-10-2007, 06:39 PM
Another little update on the project:
I pulled the TI rad today and did some measuring.
I've got exactly 22" from the IC (mounted in the stock location) to where the radiator needs to end on the pass. side. Adding the tank size to the core length on the SC radiator gives me an overall length of 21 5/8". 3/8" isn't much of a margin for error, but this is assuming that I won't have to rework the mounts for the IC to cheat it toward the driver side. There's a good bit of room to be gained in doing that if it should prove to be necessary.

After removing the TI radiator, it's evident how much the core support has already been cut on. Returning this car to original condition at this point would be a matter of welding in the entire core support from another Spirit, and this is all before I've even laid a finger on it. Taking that into account, I won't feel so bad about having to drill holes or weld brackets to make this work. At least my work will look clean. Hopefully...:)
I'll be going to pick up the SC rad in an hour or so, so I should know something definite this evening.

JDAWG
05-10-2007, 06:45 PM
im taking my 90 Gbody VNT rad and a t2 G rad to a guy next week to see what he can do with them. When I talked to him on the phone he knew the exact radiators I was talking about. Ill let you guys know what happens. If he can recore them cheap he will have a huge business on his hands.

tryingbe
05-10-2007, 06:48 PM
Not really, unless it's for VNT and TIII.

Turbovanman can't sell his recored TII radiator for $240.

Tony Hanna
05-10-2007, 08:48 PM
Well, The SC rad is going to fit, and should involve only drilling 3 holes and fabricating 2 straps for the top. That's just to get it mounted though. The hoses, fan, and coolant recovery tank will take a bit more work. Hopefully I'll have it done and pics up sometime tomorrow.

While I'm at it, does anybody know if a parts store would stock the little rubber caps that go over the mounting lugs on the radiator?
Thanks,
Tony

JDAWG
05-11-2007, 12:15 AM
Well, The SC rad is going to fit, and should involve only drilling 3 holes and fabricating 2 straps for the top. That's just to get it mounted though. The hoses, fan, and coolant recovery tank will take a bit more work. Hopefully I'll have it done and pics up sometime tomorrow.

While I'm at it, does anybody know if a parts store would stock the little rubber caps that go over the mounting lugs on the radiator?
Thanks,
Tony

the little rubber that go on the little pointy things?

Tony Hanna
05-11-2007, 01:13 AM
the little rubber that go on the little pointy things?

Yeah man, that'd be them. Not the ones you can get out of a vending machine in a gas station bathroom either. Whole different rubber, whole different pointy thing...:D

Seriously, Advance didn't have them in the "help" section which means not at all. Guess they're a dealer or junkyard item. No matter though, I found a couple spares from one of the parts cars.:thumb:

jre97
05-11-2007, 01:54 AM
I think the new radiator I bought for the lebaron came with new radiator "condoms". If so the old ones are in the boxwith the old rad. You're welcome to them. I'll look in the morning, eh afternoon when I get up.

Tony Hanna
05-11-2007, 02:44 AM
I think the new radiator I bought for the lebaron came with new radiator "condoms". If so the old ones are in the boxwith the old rad. You're welcome to them. I'll look in the morning, eh afternoon when I get up.

Thanks man, but I got it. I built the top bracket so as not to need them, and found a couple for the bottom.:thumb:
I just finished welding up the top bracket and I'm waiting on it to cool before I bolt it to the core support. I've also got the fan mounted (I used that monster slimline fan from Egbert's truck :) ), the radiator hoses sorted out, and a plan for the coolant recovery jug. If I'd stay at it, I'd be done by now, but I keep running in here to check the board and post.:o

Tony Hanna
05-11-2007, 06:04 AM
Well, it's done and so am I. Gotta keep going though. I need to at least run to the parts store and grab some antifreeze and paint for the top bracket. I figure I'll pull the bracket off, clean it up, and paint it so it can be drying while I'm asleep.:nod: If I don't do it now, it'll end up looking like my fuel rail before I get around to it.:o

This turned out to be a bit more involved than I anticipated, but then again projects like this usually do.
It's not sanitary by even the loosest definition of the word, but in my opinion it turned out a heck of alot cleaner looking than it was before.
Here's some before and after pics. You can judge for yourself.:)

JDAWG
05-11-2007, 08:42 AM
radiator condoms pn is 4266396 Lots left in the warehouse at $4.50 list fyi

Blue Iroc R/T
05-11-2007, 12:57 PM
Nice Job, Tony! :thumb: Yeah, your right, that fuel rail looks NASTY! But the radiator/IC looks great.

Tony Hanna
05-11-2007, 01:33 PM
Nice Job, Tony! :thumb: Yeah, your right, that fuel rail looks NASTY! But the radiator/IC looks great.

Thanks Ralph.
I think the fuel rail is the result of the car being winter driven in Ohio. You can see the white road salt residue in the underhood insulation. I really need to hit the rail with a flap wheel and throw a coat of paint on it, but I'm half afraid if I take any of the rust off it'll spring a leak.:lol:

Fast4Ward
05-11-2007, 08:06 PM
I've got a rad from a RT.

Tony Hanna
05-12-2007, 12:22 AM
I've got a rad from a RT.

I got the radiator sorted out now. Thanks though.:)

Tony Hanna
05-12-2007, 12:54 AM
radiator condoms pn is 4266396 Lots left in the warehouse at $4.50 list fyi

Thanks man!
The radiator I bought did actually come with new ones. I didn't pay very close attention to the bag of hardware (tranny cooler fittings and crap) that came with it. they were in there.:o

moparmaster
05-12-2007, 10:32 PM
I have heard that Rick's rads are around $850 since there are so few left. Let us know!

JDAWG
05-12-2007, 10:33 PM
funk dat

Tony Hanna
05-13-2007, 10:52 AM
I have heard that Rick's rads are around $850 since there are so few left. Let us know!

He didn't quote me a price on the new OEM radiator, just said they weren't cost effective unless someone was doing a restoration.

He did have another type of radiator that he said was as close to a 100% direct fit as you could get (intercooler bolts up) for $365 + $24 shipping inside the continental US. If I hadn't already bought and started fitting the SC radiator by the time I read his email, I would have gone with one of those. I may end up having to anyway if I run into problems when I install an AC condensor.
Tony

86Shelby
05-13-2007, 12:53 PM
It shouldn't be too difficult to move the condensor over a little bit. You will have to cut a little at the core support at the bottom for one of the lines to clear. After that's done it will move over to the right several inches. I'll see if I can find the pics I have showing how it's done.

Tony Hanna
05-13-2007, 02:34 PM
It shouldn't be too difficult to move the condensor over a little bit. You will have to cut a little at the core support at the bottom for one of the lines to clear. After that's done it will move over to the right several inches. I'll see if I can find the pics I have showing how it's done.

Thanks Ray!
The core support was cut on before I ever got the car, so a little trimming to shift the condenser won't bother me at all. That sounds like a much more wallet friendly solution than buying a second new radiator.:thumb:
Tony

Blue Iroc R/T
05-13-2007, 11:18 PM
Thanks Ralph.
I think the fuel rail is the result of the car being winter driven in Ohio. You can see the white road salt residue in the underhood insulation. I really need to hit the rail with a flap wheel and throw a coat of paint on it, but I'm half afraid if I take any of the rust off it'll spring a leak.:lol:

That fuel rail will clean very nice with some scotch brite and a little steel wool. Flap wheel will probably scratch the tube.
I get white on my hood pad also and I don't drive mine in the salt. :(

Tony Hanna
05-14-2007, 01:50 AM
That fuel rail will clean very nice with some scotch brite and a little steel wool. Flap wheel will probably scratch the tube.
I get white on my hood pad also and I don't drive mine in the salt. :(

I'll give that a try first, but I've got a feeling that it's going to take at least a good hand sanding with some emery cloth. The pictures don't do justice to how bad it really is. The residue on the hood pad might not be salt, that's just what it looked like to me, but you can definately tell that the car has seen some. Speaking of which, I need to pull the carpet up and take care of some rust repair to the driver side floorboard before it gets any worse. It's completely gone around the area where the e-brake cable passes through. That must be a relatively common problem area as the Sundance was the exact same way. In fact, I may have enough 16 ga. left over from that repair to weld in this one.:thumb:
Thanks,
Tony