New rings or no

[Devsdaytona]

Ok, I just had my head rebuilt because is was burning oil from cylinder #2 exhaust valve. The machine shop found that the seals where ok and the valaves where a little loose, but not enough to burn oil. The machines shop also recommended that I should pop my pistons out and redo my rings. Do you guys think it is a good idea. Engine has been rebuilt before supposedly 50,000kms ago with the stock bore.

Thanks guy's

[turbovanman²]

What do the tops of the pistons look like and I can tell you.

Otherwise just do it, rings are fairly cheap, a few more hours, a one piece pan gasket and the bottom end is fresh.

[Whorse]

yeah but that's also about 180 bucks later with hastings rings and a 1 piece oil pan gasket.

[turbovanman²]

yeah but that's also about 180 bucks later with hastings rings and a 1 piece oil pan gasket.

Whats $180 now vs time and more money down the road.

[Devsdaytona]

Until you factor in the Lordco employee discount.

Ok I'll do it well it's apart.

Thanks Turbovanman

What would be the best way to seat the new rings?

I was running Royal Purple 10-30 full synthetic, what would be best for seating the rings?

Thanks, TM is the most awesome site.

[Whorse]

I've always thought regular non synthetic and beating the piss out of them was the best way.

[cordes]

I've always thought regular non synthetic and beating the piss out of them was the best way.

That is what I did in my shadow, and it worked great.

[Devsdaytona]

ok, thats what I thought, pretty much just vary speed and throttle, cause it looks like I will be breaking in some new rod bearings as well.

:o

[turbovanman²]

ok, thats what I thought, pretty much just vary speed and throttle, cause it looks like I will be breaking in some new rod bearings as well.

:o


Bearings need no break in.

Use Dino oil for 5000 kms then switch to synthetic.

Get it running, set timing, check leaks, warm it up and go for a drive. Stay in 2nd then WOT to aprox 80 km/h, chop the gas, WOT and chop, do this for 25 times. Rings are now seated, now drive it like you stole it but don't hold the rpm steady for extended periods. I would also change the oil after you do this. :nod:

[Devsdaytona]

Ok, thanks for the info.

I did some measuring with the few resources my Dad has and I think that the bore is .020 over. Along with the bearings being 0.025 over or something. And the cylinders are a bit glazed. :yuck:

[turbovanman²]

Ok, thanks for the info.

I did some measuring with the few resources my Dad has and I think that the bore is .020 over. Along with the bearings being 0.025 over or something. And the cylinders are a bit glazed. :yuck:


If its bored over, the piston tops will be marked. The bearings will also be a stamped on the backside with the undersize.

[shelby zed]

dont forget to bring one to work so i can give you the rod bearings devin

[Devsdaytona]

I've always thought regular non synthetic and beating the piss out of them was the best way.

That maybe kinda sorta is the thing that landed me here in the first place. There was signs of detination on the rod bearings, but no signs on the pistons except I would say the rings looked hagered.

But she runs now, just need to set the timing and seat the rings.

Thanks for the help everyone who replied to this thread.:amen:

[Devsdaytona]

Well, test drove it tonight and did the 2nd gear chop thing. Vacume is reading strong and the motor runs as smooth as any tm runs. Not smoking at all bu there is a very very faint noise inside the motor which I have heard before in other cars and have not seen it get worse, so only time will tell I guess.