my hybrid project is underway!

[hybridshadow]

ok guys, been really busy, so i havent had a chance to post anything lately.

here's the plans

2.2 common block , 2.4 head in a 94 shadow 2 dr.
car is currently a 523 5 spd, will be pulling that for a built 413
converting to megasquirtII with wideband and E85 enabled
goal- 500 whp on E-85

heres some of the finer details and my progress so far

2.2 common block, prepped for the hybrid conversion
wiesco forged .20 over pistons, 8.5 : 1 static comp ratio
eagle H-beam srt-4 rods, small end honed out to fit a .901 wrist pin
steel 2.2 TII crank
98 breeze head, prepped for conversion, 3 angle valve job
stock neon cams
custom stainless steel 4-1 turbo header
chopped and ported cloud car intake
holset HX35 turbo
65 mm TB
106 pph ethanol compatible injectors
walborogh 255 fuel pump

block head and internals are all at the machine shop right now, so i dont have any pics of the goodies till the machine work is done
head is totally finished, waiting on ARP main studs to arrive so the mains can be align honed.
waiting on the long block to be completed before i start fabing up manifolds, so right now im in a holding pattern.
i'll have pics up as soon as i get my stuff back from the shop

[Speedeuphoria]

goal- 500 whp on E-85
wrist pin106 pph ethanol compatible injectors
walborogh 255 fuel pump


Eagle H-beam srt-4 rods, small end honed out to fit a .901

this is reffering to Eagle SRT4 rods, and the thread is here
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13500&page=3

There is also not enough material on the small end to safely make it bigger for .901 pins.


I also am not sure that the walbro 255 will push enough fuel for 500whp on ethanol. It is pretty much maxed w/ 75lb injectors @70psi wich will give you 500whp on gas but not ethanol. So you will have to run low fuel pressure and it may be possible

[hybridshadow]

fuel pump issue is debateable, i've seen test resluts with the walborogh pump putting out 315 lph at 45 psi on 14.4 volts, which is enough to do what i want, but if in real world i start running out of fuel , then i'll yank it and go with somthing that can keep up with fuel demands. no biggie.

the rods are another story. dont know where turbovanman got his info, but has he actually machined these rods himself for this app? .015 " is not very much material at all, and in fact it doesnt even cut through the bronze bushing! thats probably why fwd performance sells them and will hone out the small end for up to a .912 pin. dont think theyd be sellin rods if there was "nothing left" after a simple pin hone.....

[tvanlant]

Are you running a cast crank or a forged one?

Sounds like it is going to be a wicked shadow.

[turbovanman²]

the rods are another story. dont know where turbovanman got his info, but has he actually machined these rods himself for this app? .015 " is not very much material at all, and in fact it doesnt even cut through the bronze bushing! thats probably why fwd performance sells them and will hone out the small end for up to a .912 pin. dont think theyd be sellin rods if there was "nothing left" after a simple pin hone.....


Where do I get the info, I have the SRT rods, we have measured and its in the gray area. Removing that much material for .901 pins almost removes the bushing and to remachine for another pin bushing, we feel its too thin. Cindy can have her own theory as she has to warranty them-if she makes those fit .912 pins, there is no wrist pin end left. Have you seen how much material is around the bushing? not much. Me, I am going for 400whp DD and WILL NOT risk having a rod come apart hence Wiseco making me pistons with the .866 pin. BTW, your math is off, .866 to .901 is .035" Info can be used as needed. I don't fell safe using the .901 pin. ;)

[turboshad]

BTW, your math is off, .866 to .901 is .035" Info can be used as needed.

His math isn't off by that much, only 2 1/2 thou. It's .035 dia so only .0175 off the radius. If you are looking at taking .035 off the radius I can see where you would be concerned.

DJ

[turbovanman²]

His math isn't off by that much, only 2 1/2 thou. It's .035 dia so only .0175 off the radius. If you are looking at taking .035 off the radius I can see where you would be concerned.

DJ

Hahaa, right, forgot about that part, stupid math, :banghead: . Either way, alot has to come off, enough we feel its not safe. I forgot to add, the SRT doesn't have piston oil squirters either so those need to be added.

Ok, I just measured my small end on the Eagles, the bushing is aprox .030" thick, give or take a few though, now remove .015 and its now wafer thin. The thickness of the bushing and rod is .187 with the .866 pin, a stock TII rod averages .260 with the .901 pin. As you can see, not much there.

[hybridshadow]

lol turbovanman- you're forgetting one really important thing- i stated above that honing out the small end doesnt even cut all the way thru the bushing. the strength of the rod is carried by the eye in the shaft of the rod, not the bushing. wont compromise strength one bit- i even called eagle after i read your post, said it was fine as long as i dont go thru the bushing and machine the steel rod itself, they will warranty them (except the bushing). i've seen many many destroyed connecting rods, and not one of em had the small end come apart. the rod usally pulls apart right below it. even if i do wear out the bushing prematurely ( i wont, this is not a DD) who cares? spend 25 bucks on new ones and have em fitted. a human hair is .0015" thick, youre tellin me if i cut off the thickness of 7 hairs off the small end its gonna come apart? right.... :lol:

oh almost forgot- yes i am running a forged crank, non common block crank in a common block. now all i gotta do is wait for someone to tell me a non-CB crank wont fit a CB engine.........

brian slowes shadow was the final lil bit of info i saw that made me take the plunge, probably wont go quite as fast as he does, im not going to alter my wheelbase like he did, as i still want to drive this thing on the street occasionally.

[tvanlant]

oh almost forgot- yes i am running a forged crank, non common block crank in a common block. now all i gotta do is wait for someone to tell me a non-CB crank wont fit a CB engine.........
.

Common block and non-cb cranks ARE different. The only difference is that they have a different main seal size (i believe). I think you can put a non-cb crank in a cb, but you'll just have to have it cut down to the correct size. Or maybe it's the other way around.
Or, you could just get a common block forged crank.

[hybridshadow]

you're correct- the front seal diameter on the CB crank is larger in diameter, i doubt my machinist will charge me extra to turn that down to size when he grinds the crank. i could go look for a CB crank, but already have this one. besides, if i have the seal journal turned down its much less likely to leak because there wont be grooves worn into the crank from the old seal, and i do not want to use a sleeve and seal kit- those are gay, and they leak underneath the sleeve half the time