my build...

[shelby zed]

just got my block back from being bored today, and after work i worked on it for a bit. got a coat of paint on it, and put the crank in. i still have to torque everything so its just in there. god those arp rod bolts are a ***** to put in. is it normal for the crankshaft to have holes drilled in the counterbalance peices? mine looks like someone went at it with a drill...ill have some pictures tommorow hopefully.

[turbovanman²]

Yes, thats how they balance the crank. Are you getting the rods resized after you put the ARP's in?

[shelby zed]

they resized them allready simon, ive got a package waiting for me so hopefully its the shifter or fuel pump or someting that will be fun. ill have some more pics tonight, ill be there putting the rest of it together. oh simon i have that kit thing to whenever you want it.

[Clay]

but the key is, did the resize the rods AFTER they put the ARP bolts in?

[turbovanman²]

but the key is, did the resize the rods AFTER they put the ARP bolts in?


Exactly. Sounds like you are putting the bolts in, which means they now need to be resized.

Ok, cool, my work number is 604-533-1162.

[shelby zed]

i took them in and got them checked with the arps in, and they said they where fine. sorry i forgot pics. got a goddamn vi on the old lancer last night.. then it started knocking today!anyways heres some pics
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4190100.jpg
the little drill holes
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4190101.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4190102.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4190103.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4190104.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4210105.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4210106.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4210107.jpg

[raccoon]

oh so nice, i could make love to it.

[shelby zed]

i allready did ;)
some more pics, got the head assembled and put on
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4240129.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4240128.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4240127.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4240126.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4240125.jpg

[22mopar]

YIKES, you changed rod bolts after resizing??? thats a major error!!!!!

BTW arp bolts are EZ to install if you do it right with a press. Never draw them in with the nuts by tightening. that stresses the rod, bolt and nut... bad plan stan.

[turbovanman²]

New engines are soooooo sexy, :partywoot:

[shelby zed]

and more, vc is still wet so it didnt crinkle yet
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4250130.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4250131.jpg
got my walbro today
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4250132.jpg
and a sweet keychain
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4250133.jpg

[overlordsshadow]

Damn fine looking engine. Hope she works well for you, mine sure is. Car just feels so nice going so fast. For some reason the shadow does not want to obey posted speed limits, maybe it just never sees them.

[shelby zed]

haha, yea.. i think mine may have the same problem..

[overlordsshadow]

Now there could be another problem. My right foot may be slightly heavier than my left one. Should add more springs to help keep the throttle closed. Would have thought I'd be born with a stronger right arm for yanking on the throttle on a bike. Maybe thats to come mid summer:)

[shelby zed]

got the tranny all cleaned and painted tonight, didnt take pics but tommorow ill e putting the clutch in and the tranny on.took tommorow off of school to get more done, should be done soon ... waiting on turbo lines to put the engine in, and a crank sprocket

[shelby zed]

got the turbo lines today, still need one elbow for them to work... but i got some flywheel bolts and a crank timing belt sprocket, so i put them all on and all the belts. tranny goes on tommorow after i find that damn plate that goes between the trannyn and engine and then it goes in. what do you guys use for tranny fluid?and also, what are the torque specs on the cam caps? my manual doesnt say. im also wondering about break in procedure... heres what ive gathered
run it a few times to heat cycle it all, like let it cool down completely after.
change the oil after 500 km,
heres my questions, use petroleum based oil at first? let it warm up idling before you do the break in? run a little boost or full boost at first?

[shelby zed]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4280136.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4280137.jpg
tranny is on, need a dipstick tube, and to fab up my dp, as well as a little extesnion for one turbo line, then it goes back in

[shelby zed]

its in, and everythings hooked up. went to start it and apparently the machine shop removed the oil plug right by the intermediate shaft, so now i have to take everything off the front of the engine to fix it... looks likke itll be a couple more days :( i have some pics of it in ill post in a bit

[overlordsshadow]

That really, really, really sucks. I know just the plug that you are talking about. Thankfully mine was put back in all nice and shiney and didn't have any leaks or problems.

[turbovanman²]

got the turbo lines today, still need one elbow for them to work... but i got some flywheel bolts and a crank timing belt sprocket, so i put them all on and all the belts. tranny goes on tommorow after i find that damn plate that goes between the trannyn and engine and then it goes in. what do you guys use for tranny fluid?and also, what are the torque specs on the cam caps? my manual doesnt say. im also wondering about break in procedure... heres what ive gathered
run it a few times to heat cycle it all, like let it cool down completely after.
change the oil after 500 km,
heres my questions, use petroleum based oil at first? let it warm up idling before you do the break in? run a little boost or full boost at first?

Use Redline MTX or similiar or I like GM Synchromesh.

Start it up, set the timing, bleed cooling system, go beat the shitt out of it, I run 5 psi of boost, just plug wastegate to intake. I do what Hastings suggests, keep it 2nd and pin it to about 80 Km, then chop the gas for 5 secs, pin it to 80, and chop, repeat 25 times and its broken in. Go back, change the oil and filter-DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC, drive it hard but not at the same rpm and after 5000 km's, you can use syn oil.

[shelby zed]

ok, so dont use synthetic for a little while? iu can get a case of royal purple for 80$ from work haha im itching for it
here it is, still needs alot of cleaning
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4290138.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P4290139.jpg

[Mopar_Nutz]

hahaha, your BOV "filter" just REEKS of class! ;)

[turbovanman²]

ok, so dont use synthetic for a little while? iu can get a case of royal purple for 80$ from work haha im itching for it
here it is, still needs alot of cleaning


Don't even think about it for 5K or your rings won't seat properly. Use a good dino product or Shell Rotella, :nod:

[shelby zed]

yeah funny story, fixed the one plug last night and guess what, theres one on the other side too.. im gonna go kill myself now... and then fix it tommorow, forget school!

[shelby zed]

ok, both plugs are fixed, now i need to put on the flywheel, clutch, bla blah, tranny, cables, all that crap. and then the v belt and serpentine belt and then try to start it. heres some pics
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P5010140.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P5010141.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c60/mxracer69/P5010142.jpg

[Clay]

its bleeding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;)

[turbovanman²]

Don't forget to put thread sealer on the flywheel bolts or you'll have another leak.

[shelby zed]

well its all in, thanks simon i did. devin was kind enough to help me while i was lying on my back in the rain under the car. but now its in, still have to put shifter cables back in, clutch cable, cvs, brakes, wheels,... all that crap. then make my dp and i can start it. god what a pain,but im glad its almost done

[shelby zed]

ok, everythings done but the dp and bolting on the wheels. still have to put in the af guage and boost guage. but other than some little things i hope to have it working tommorow

[overlordsshadow]

What is that that you have rigged up for your pcv?

[shelby zed]

catch can, i have to mount it in the front though, so right now its moved from taking out the tranny

[turbovanman²]

If you get it done, you'll have to come by and we can have a few beers, will be in Kelowna May long weekend for a hockey tournament.

[shelby zed]

for sure simon, i can give you that thing then, or send it in a couple days.

and back to the car...
it wont start.
i did the cam timing about 10 times, wires are on right, its getting spark, its getting fuel... it just wont start, im thinking i maybe put the injector wiring harness on backwards or something, cause its not firing or anything. anyone have any ideas?

[overlordsshadow]

Will it not combust at all? Putting wiring harness on backwards would be weird but if you've checked that its probly an elec problem mabye tied to ecu. Are you trying to timing light it right off the start?

[shelby zed]

no timing light yet, just turning the dist while trying to start it. also swapped map sensors. and i got a new rotor today. no it wont combust, the plugs are all wet and it has spark

[mcsvt]

Don't play with the dist. Just put the engine at TDC, then put the rotor at the #1 wire.

If it still isn't starting check all of your grounds. Intake, pass side engine mount, trans...

Fuel pump coming on? Priming?

You don't want to much fuel getting past the rings before they seat. Bad for bearings.

Not sure what else to recommend. I would start with the basics. Check EVERY connection! Then check it again after checking the others.

[shelby zed]

ll check all the grouunds tommorow. the fuel pump comes on, and when i turn the dist all the way so it hits the block the fuel pump primes. i was told its because the hall effect inside when it spins causes the fuel pump to go, i thaught it was a bad ground or something. ill check everything tommorow. any more suggestions?

[overlordsshadow]

Thinking of my no start problems. Some have been hall, some have been bad capacitors, others could be the ais. Had a bit of a problem with min when I swapped it from the old engine to the new one, had to reset its minimum air and position in the tb.

[shelby zed]

ok, ill try another tb and another hall. thanks man. hows your car doing?

[overlordsshadow]

The Shadow is running great. Ordering meth injection, solid front and trans mounts tonight along with sway bar bushings if I can figure out what size my 1992 N/A Shadow takes.

[shelby zed]

right on, well i got it running today. swapped my injector harness for an 89 one (mine was 88) and now it runs, not great but i also didnt time it. the guage reads no oil pressure, but i took out the sender and it puked absolutely everywhere. oh and i also changed the rotor. i will get a new sender tommorow and see how that helps. tommorow im gonna weld up a dp and then it wont try and burn all the oil off the firewall. i have to tighten up a few things and then start tuning it.

[overlordsshadow]

Good job. Wonder what went wrong with the injector harness. I am using my 88 2.2l injector harness on my new 2.5 89 with the +40% injectors just fine. Could have been the rotor too though. Let us know when shes a purrrrrring

[shelby zed]

well, it wouldnt work all day. then i pulled off the vacc line from my bov and it ws full of gas... after spending all day screwing around. other than getting my exhaust done. i figured out the diaphram must have let go in the fpr. so it was full of gas everywhere, and it wouldnt run at all. switched the fpr and fuel rail and it runs now. drained the oily gas... and changed it with new stuff. it still wont rev over about 3 grand though. any ideas? when i put in the oil pump i guess i didnt line anything up so the rotor is off and all the plug wires are switched forward one to compensate.

[overlordsshadow]

Well when I couldn't run over 3k it turned out to be a plug wire tip was burned off on the rotor side. Some of the other guys suggested a limp in mode for some damn thing at 3k rpm. Does it physicallt hit that barrier and pull hard to it or does it slow poke it to there and then max out there. How is the free rev?

[shelby zed]

ok, so i fixed the leak that turned out to be a turbo line, and now i set the timing (durr shouldve done that first) anyways runs nicely now. im so stoked to drive it soon

[overlordsshadow]

Good job man. Really nice out here today, gonna fix up the exhuast on the Shadow and build my back shock brace and take her for a good rip. Can't wait for the alchy inject!

[Aries_Turbo]

oh btw, no GM synchromesh for that tranny. its been known to kill them.

nice build. it takes a while to get all the bugs out lol

Brian

[turbovanman²]

oh btw, no GM synchromesh for that tranny. its been known to kill them.



Only one person has had an issue with Synchromesh, more than 1 is currently running it and NO issues.


Bugs suck, glad you got them worked out.:nod:

[shelby zed]

well, got the front end on and everything and was on my way up the driveway and kabang blew the cv in half! oh well, ill grab a new one from work tommorow, i made the oil pressure sender work and i still need to do a few little things, like verify that the timing is correct and make sure the front end is on good. oh well. ill take some pics tommorow

[overlordsshadow]

Thats just crazy. First time out of the drive with the new setup? Never know to just give up on these cars or give them more attention. If its not one thing breaking its another, but its cheap and fun to fix usually.

[shelby zed]

not even the first time out, just driving it up the driveway. how does that happen? ive heard something about the engine not being centered?
oh well, im going to get one from work today with a warranty... its gonna be a whopping 63 dollars or something:faint: anyone have any ideas why it would do that? im gonna check my tranny mount today all the othe ones are new and filled with winshield stuff

[Clay]

engine being off centered can cause it.

[Aries_Turbo]

Only one person has had an issue with Synchromesh, more than 1 is currently running it and NO issues.


Bugs suck, glad you got them worked out.:nod:

why risk it??? synchromesh is really expensive and unproven. motor oil is proven and quite a few folks are running royal purple synchromax cause its formulated for trannies that originally use motor oil/atf and it works well. :thumb:

Brian

[mcsvt]

+2? on the centering the engine before you try driving it again.

[shelby zed]

it was because the tranny mount botl ahd come loose haha, so now i got a new one in, and i test drove it. man it runs nice. forgot to attach the wg vacc line, but luckily i wasnt flooring it and when i saw it go past 6 i let off. has a little leak on the pulley side of the engine, so im gonna check it out tommorow and change the oil again

[shelby zed]

for some reason at idle the oil pressure drops down to around 10 when warm and is about 40ish when driving. what would cause that? im thinking that im missing the restrictor in the block but if anyone has any other ideas im all ears, thank you

[Aries_Turbo]

if you are running the stock mopar pump it will be like that.

if it was a commonblock and no one took out the restrictor, it should still be there. my 92 TBI commonblock had the restrictor.

Brian

[shelby zed]

its a replacement melling the m118 that everyone uses.

[Aries_Turbo]

the high volume one? I dont know the part numbers....

if so, yeah that is a little low. mine is 20+ hot idle.

Brian

[shelby zed]

im nto sure if it is or not. maybe i got the wrong one? i turned up the idle and it hasnt dropped below 10 since...

[Aries_Turbo]

did you try a different gauge as well as a test?

Brian

[shelby zed]

im using the stock guage, i upgraded to an 89 sender with the plug, as well as a mechanical. at idle its between 10-20 and then on the stock guage its at around 1/3 say 1/4 inch above the bottom line

[Aries_Turbo]

idle between 10-20 is fairly normal.

what year is the block, did it go to the machine shop and did they remove a restrictor or did you ever remove it. i know that mine had it and it wasnt a turbo block. if no one touched it, it should still be there.

Brian

[shelby zed]

its an 89 2.2 t2 bottom end, i think it maybe fell out? it went to the machine shop, was bored and everything done to it. new oil pump too, i ordered another restrictor as well as a high pressure spring for the pump so well see how that goes

[shelby zed]

well, blew ANOTHER cv tonight, the motor mount was fine when i put it in, but now it looks a little low. so im gonna have to pull it tommorow and get warranty. but damn, effing car, alt went the other day too! argh oh well. just another day

[overlordsshadow]

I am surprised that I didn't break something. My pass side motor mount bolts that hold it to the engine half of the mount were loose as hell and the belts were touching the snow cover.

[shelby zed]

yeah, im not sure about mine, both boots are off and i put it in gear and lt it idles, the whole shaft turns except for the splined part going through the bearing so im assuming i broke the inside of it ill take it out tonight

[mcsvt]

Go with an unequal shaft. I stripped the splines on the Int shaft and haven't looked back since the change over :)

[overlordsshadow]

I have an unequal length shaft on my new setup also. Doesn't seem to be any torque steer problems and I'm puttin through some pretty decent power.

[Aries_Turbo]

i have an unequal shaft setup as well. at 20psi the torque steer isnt bad at all.

Brian

[shelby zed]

i have unequal, this is the drivers side. replaced it today, the old one i broke the race in half... ouch, but now its fixed. i need a new tranny mount so im not driving it for tommorow :(